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Old 11th June 2012, 17:54   #1
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Smile Jungles of MP: Pench National Park in May

We had planned for a self drive trip through MP visiting all the prominent national parks in MP during our son's summer breaks with much anticipation and excitment.

It was the first time that we would be doing such a long self-drive trip, infact the first time that i was taking a 2 weeks holiday from work and also first time that i had planned for a vacation in such advance.

As the time was nearing, the excitment was growing and we were ticking off our prep list. Then finally, on 19th May - we were off on our journey. Little did I know that i will not be able to complete the journey and will have to return back from the first halt itself. We were in Khajuraho and had done the Khajuraho circuit and Panna national park when disaster stuck and we had to turn back with a heavy heart. Read about it in my TL for Khajuraho and PAnna -


http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/travel...aho-panna.html (Self Drive Holiday MP Trip: Khajuraho - Panna)


Back at home - we were tyring to see as to what would be the best course of action given that we still had 1 week vacation left. I was quarantined on doctor's orders and had ample time to work out next plan. Doc had told me that i would recover by Sunday 27th and will be ok to travel again. This was a good news after the disaster.

Our bookings for Bandhavgarh and Kanha had to be cancelled, but i had not yet cancelled by bookings for Pench.

Now, we started planning afresh - our bookings in Pench were from 29th May so we planned that we will fly out to Nagpur on 27th morning, goto Tadoba and then from there to Pench on 29th.

I was very happy - because i have been looking to visit Tadoba again and this provided me with an opportunity. Unfortunately - on checking with various resorts in Tadoba - everyone told me that safaris are booked full till June 14th and nothing can be available

So - as a last resort, made Safari booking starting Sunday 27th for Pench itself with the plan of staying in Pench the whole week.


Everything went on schedule and we boarded out flight to Nagpur early morning on 27th May. Touched down at 7.30 am and the taxi was waiting to pick us up, collected our bags and were off to Pench.

Jungles of MP: Pench National Park in May-img_1605.jpg

Pench - the land of Mowgli and Jungle book. As kids we used to watch Jungle book on TV every sunday without fail. The world of Mowgli, Bagheera, Sherkhan.

Jungle jungle baat chali hai pata chala hai, chaddi pehan ke phool khila hai, phool khila hai....... such iconic lines everyone from my generation will remember this song.

Hoping for many good encounters with Sherkhan, we were on our way to the resort which is some 100 Kms from Nagpur Airport. The roads wee OK barring some stretches and the MP toll naka and so we made good time and were at the resort before 10 am.

We were staying in Mahua Vann - and it is a resort based on village themes with cottages spread around the property. Reaching the resort, we were told that our cottage is not get ready and were given temporary quarters for the interim. It is here that we realised about the electricity issue and hoped that our ACs will work as it was sweltering hot.

Anyways - after lunch our cottage was ready and we shifted to the cottage, it was cottage number 9 and at the end of the propoerty. It was a good cottage with a sitout on the roof. My sun was super excited and so was I.

But again dissapointment - the AC was not working there was major fluctuation in the line and AC was not functioning properly - we complained to the reception and they sent the electrician. HE did some jugaad and it was working.

Now, it was time to goto the Safari - our first Safari in Pench and we were prepared with wet towels and electrol and water to keep us hydrated.


We were supposed to do Safaris with the much celebrated Bablu (refer to GDsir's and Dr. Abheek's threads). Reaching PEnch - I had got in touch with Bablu and had handed over the Safari tickets to him, and while talking mentioned about Tadoba - he had some contact there (Himanshu) and he immediately talked to him about it.
Himanshu said that he will revert by Monday.

So with happy hearts, we left for our first safari.

Pench has been made famous in recent time by Collar wali and her cubs. Even at the current moment there are at least 3 litters - Badi Maa and her cubs, Bagin Nala tigress and her cubs and one more tigress that has delivered quite recently.

Also, in Pench - routes are allocated for each vehicle and we were allocated Route #5 for this Safari.

The "best" routes in terms of getting to see a tiger are the rutes where Bagin Nala and Junawani lake falls. Unfortunately - neither fell on Route 5.
But we did not know this at that time - and we were quite happy being on a Safari.


Now for the pics.


The ever present Indian Roller - you get to see a lot of them in MP jungles and they are so colourful that i can never resist clicking them.
Jungles of MP: Pench National Park in May-img_1649.jpg

Indian Roller
Jungles of MP: Pench National Park in May-img_1666.jpg

Golden Oriole - with reflection, drinking water
Jungles of MP: Pench National Park in May-img_1691.jpg

Crested Serpent Eagle
Jungles of MP: Pench National Park in May-img_1737.jpg

Crested Serpent Eagle
Jungles of MP: Pench National Park in May-img_1749.jpg

Indian Roller
Jungles of MP: Pench National Park in May-img_1777.jpg

Indian Roller
Jungles of MP: Pench National Park in May-img_1787.jpg

Brown headed Barbet - barbets are such colorful bodies but with an ugly head
Jungles of MP: Pench National Park in May-img_1803.jpg

Brown headed Barbet
Jungles of MP: Pench National Park in May-img_1819.jpg

to be contd...
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Old 11th June 2012, 18:22   #2
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Default Re: Jungles of MP: Pench National Park in May

The jungle was silent, but not too hot and were sipping from our electrol bottles to keep ourselves hydrated.

We saw this cute spotted deer fawn - spotted deer are one of my favourite subjects
Jungles of MP: Pench National Park in May-img_1827.jpg

Eurasian thicknee - a very striking bird with bold colors and lines
Jungles of MP: Pench National Park in May-img_1880.jpg

Eurasian thicknee
Jungles of MP: Pench National Park in May-img_1895.jpg

The jungle was totally silent and moving through the jungle we ended up at a place near the pench river, this was a pretty place with lot of grass and water and animals doing their thing.

We decided to wait here as there could be chances of some tiger movement.

While waiting we clicked these pictures.


Indian Bison aka Gaur - these are one of the animals that were top on my list for this trip to MP jungles. Such strength and muscles.
Jungles of MP: Pench National Park in May-img_1917.jpg

Bison
Jungles of MP: Pench National Park in May-img_1924.jpg

Deer family - grazing
Jungles of MP: Pench National Park in May-img_1943.jpg

Deer family - set against the horizon looking in
Jungles of MP: Pench National Park in May-img_2003.jpg

Jungles of MP: Pench National Park in May-img_2007.jpg

Male deer duelling for female attention - their routing calls are very very loud and disturbing
Jungles of MP: Pench National Park in May-img_2008.jpg

Both the contestants posing
Jungles of MP: Pench National Park in May-img_2012.jpg

Panorama shot of the valley
Jungles of MP: Pench National Park in May-dsc05627.jpg

With this, the light was falling and also time to exit the jungle getting close so we decided to leave the jungle.

Came out, babloo dropped us at the resort and this was the end of our first Safari in Pench. We had 6 more to go, what is in store for us here?


to be contd....
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Old 11th June 2012, 22:55   #3
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Default Re: Jungles of MP: Pench National Park in May

Amazing pics, quite crisp even after reducing their sizes to fit in the post. What camera do you use? This and your other post of MP together seem like an issue of National Geographic.

Keep it up!

DrVjy
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Old 12th June 2012, 15:06   #4
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Default Re: Jungles of MP: Pench National Park in May

Quote:
Originally Posted by DrVjy View Post
Amazing pics, quite crisp even after reducing their sizes to fit in the post. What camera do you use? This and your other post of MP together seem like an issue of National Geographic.

Keep it up!

DrVjy
Thanks Doc. Your comment has totally made my day. I use Canon 7D with 100-400L lens.

I will try to live upto to the expectations

------

Continuing with the TL.

As we entered the resort, it was getting dark, we had our evening tea and some hot bhajiye in the dining hall. This being a Sunday, in the afternoon there was a big and noisy group from Nagpur that had left and everything was quiet with only us and one more family remaining.

After snacks we went to our cottage and discovered that AC was still giving issue, we asked to be transferred to a cottage near by to the reception and dining area (the lesser we had to walk in the heat, the better ) and were transferred to cottage #1. Again here - we had a nightmare with the AC.
What happened was that were was a huge voltage fluctuation and every couple of minutes AC would trip and we had to manually restart as it did not restart on its own. It is then that we realised the gravity of electricity issue in MP, but the situation was unbearable and after some time AC quit working at all - the compressor was not starting and it was only giving hot air.

This became very irritating and we can asked to be shifted and were given cottage #3 this time, i also asked the resort guys to put us on generator permanently for the night atleast and they agreed. So after high drama and very dark thoughts finally we settled in - having shifted 4 times.

Anyways - went and had dinner and came back to the cottage. I was downloading the pictures of the morning Safari, when at around 11 pm my phone rang.

It was Babloo on the other side - and he had some more bad news, he had met with an accident and said that he will not be able to take us on Safari anymore and i should see with the resort.

I was totally aghast, it looked like - me getting sick in Khajuraho was a sign from the Gods that this trip was not to be and I was being reprimanded for being bull headed enough to come back to complete the trip.

Anyways, called up the resort guys - luckily they had a spare gypsy and could accomodate us. I was really thankful and all the negative thoughts about the resort and AC problems vanished quickly. With this it was lights out and we went to sleep.

Next morning - we were up early, got ready with our electrol and stuff and went to the gate. The gypsy was waiting - we got in and went to the gate. This time, we were alloted a route where Bagin Nala falls while returning. Everything done - we entered the jungle. IT was not hot at this time and we were enjoying the morning in the Jungle.


As we entered the Jungle, we saw this Sambhar standing close to the road providing a good photo-op.
Jungles of MP: Pench National Park in May-img_2043.jpg

Moving Ahead we saw this huge bird which even our guide had not see yet. It somehow reminded me of Jurrasic Park. Looks like Lesser Adjutant (Leptoptilos javanicus)

Lesser Adjutant (Leptoptilos javanicus)
Jungles of MP: Pench National Park in May-img_2056.jpg

We were slowly proceeding trying to get a good shot when suddenly it flew and...
Jungles of MP: Pench National Park in May-img_2077.jpg

... perched on a tree directly overhead giving great photo opportunity. I had never seen this bird and was thrilled
Jungles of MP: Pench National Park in May-img_2090.jpg

Jungles of MP: Pench National Park in May-img_2094.jpg

Jungles of MP: Pench National Park in May-img_2107.jpg

There was a watch tower visible from this location and on enquiry the guide told us that this was called Mahadev Ghat and it provides a good all round view. We proceeded towards it and got some clicks of a Bison busily grazing.

Bison - set against sunlight
Jungles of MP: Pench National Park in May-img_2178.jpg

Further down we saw this magnificent changeable hawk eagle up close providing great closeup shots.

Changeable hawk eagle
Jungles of MP: Pench National Park in May-img_2235.jpg

Jungles of MP: Pench National Park in May-img_2239.jpg

Jungles of MP: Pench National Park in May-img_2248.jpg
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Old 12th June 2012, 16:09   #5
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Default Re: Jungles of MP: Pench National Park in May

Lovely pictures!!! Complete the log sooner so that we can see all the photographs. The unidentified bird has similarities to a stork right??
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Old 12th June 2012, 16:40   #6
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Default Re: Jungles of MP: Pench National Park in May

Nice images! The last CHE image is my fav of the lot. I ve been planning to visit Tadoba & Pench for a long time now but somehow it doesn't work out.
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Old 12th June 2012, 17:29   #7
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Default Re: Jungles of MP: Pench National Park in May

Quote:
Originally Posted by arvind71181 View Post
Lovely pictures!!! Complete the log sooner so that we can see all the photographs. The unidentified bird has similarities to a stork right??
Thanks Arvind. I looked up Wikipedia - and it is "Lesser Adjutant (Leptoptilos javanicus)" and yes it is of the stork family.

I have tried to be faithful to the TL posting the different interesting birds that we saw in Pench as Pench is a birder paradise with around 500 species of birds found in Pench. Infact, even Panna is a birder paradise with around 800 odd species of birds found in Panna. I did not want this thread to be only about Tigers, even though Tigers are the most important reason for me making this trip

-------

Continuing the TL.

The changeable hawk eagle provided a very great photo opportunity and i clicked multitudes of shots, pasting some here that i found to be particularly nice.

Changeable Hawk Eagle
Jungles of MP: Pench National Park in May-img_2254.jpg

Changeable Hawk Eagle
Jungles of MP: Pench National Park in May-img_2258.jpg

We were near the center point where all gyspys gather for a break and also register for tiger show, and we saw this male Bison just next to the track.

Bison - all muscle
Jungles of MP: Pench National Park in May-img_2298.jpg

Bison - dripping with attitude
Jungles of MP: Pench National Park in May-img_2328.jpg

Bison
Jungles of MP: Pench National Park in May-img_2332.jpg

Bison
Jungles of MP: Pench National Park in May-img_2335.jpg

Jungle owlet
Jungles of MP: Pench National Park in May-img_2393.jpg

Jungle owlet
Jungles of MP: Pench National Park in May-img_2394.jpg

Spotted owlet
Jungles of MP: Pench National Park in May-dsc05752.jpg

Spotted deer with great antlers
Jungles of MP: Pench National Park in May-dsc05771.jpg

Spotted deer - closeup
Jungles of MP: Pench National Park in May-img_2409.jpg

It was now nearing the exit time and we decided to go and try our luck at Bagin nala, however already the sun was up and it was pertty hot and i knew that chances of catching the tigress with her cubs in the lake are pretty less, still one never knows. And there were reports of gypsys sighting the family in the morning.

So we went to bagin nala, reaching there we saw a couple of forest guards sitting there in a attempt to stop gypsys from gathering there and making a racket, the guide and the driver were not happy with that because now with these guys posted here tigers will never emerge. While we were waiting, our guide told us about something special that he knew - we decided to give it a shot and went to the place that he wanted. Take a look at the next pic and tell me what you see?

Jungles of MP: Pench National Park in May-img_2343.jpg

Last edited by sach.sri : 12th June 2012 at 17:37.
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Old 12th June 2012, 18:12   #8
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Default Re: Jungles of MP: Pench National Park in May

Wow! Wonerful pictures and great trip log.
Is this a mottled wood owl!
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Old 12th June 2012, 18:57   #9
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Default Re: Jungles of MP: Pench National Park in May

Quote:
Originally Posted by robimahanta View Post
Nice images! The last CHE image is my fav of the lot. I ve been planning to visit Tadoba & Pench for a long time now but somehow it doesn't work out.
Thanks Robin.

IF you want to go there, now is a good time with a lot of cubs in the jungle leading to great sightings.



Quote:
Originally Posted by Ketan View Post
Wow! Wonerful pictures and great trip log.
Is this a mottled wood owl!
Thanks Ketan, yes it is mottled wood owl - looking at it with naked eyes, we could hardly make out its shape

Will post more pics of mottled wood owl in the evening.
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Old 12th June 2012, 20:12   #10
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Default Re: Jungles of MP: Pench National Park in May

Your bird pictures are absolutely awesome ! Please post more pictures of them if you have, especially of water-fowl in case you have clicked any.
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Old 13th June 2012, 11:43   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by raghunandanj View Post
Your bird pictures are absolutely awesome ! Please post more pictures of them if you have, especially of water-fowl in case you have clicked any.
Thanks Raghu. I have loads of bird pictures as Pench is a birder paradise, will be posting them - pls bear with me. Unfortunately none of the water-fowl. I also have a couple of other birding threads - do check them out if you like.

Sultanpur Bird Sanctuary
http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/travel...sanctuary.html (Birds in Sultanpur bird sanctuary)

Okhla Bird Sanctuary
http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/travel...sanctuary.html (Trip to Okhla Bird Sanctuary)

Bharatpur Bird Sanctuary
http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/travel...bharatpur.html (Trip to Keoladeo Ghana Bird Sanctuary Bharatpur)


------

Continuing with the TL

As identified by Ketan, this was indeed mottled wood owl. Some more pics of the mottled wood owl.

Jungles of MP: Pench National Park in May-img_2346.jpg

Jungles of MP: Pench National Park in May-img_2367.jpg

Jungles of MP: Pench National Park in May-img_2384.jpg

Jungles of MP: Pench National Park in May-img_2386.jpg

Jungles of MP: Pench National Park in May-img_2389.jpg

This done, we again went near the Bagin Nala to stake out, waiting for the tigress. The jungle was silent and very hot and there was no shade, but we were waiting patiently - however i must say that even if the tigress would have come to the nala - we would have at best had a sighting but not a good photop opportunity, so not a good location if you are interested in photographing the tiger.

Anyways - it was growing late and with the heat and the sun, unlikely that the tigress would come out with her cubs so we decided to go back.

Exited the jungle and went to the resort. In the resort one more family had come in and they had sighted a male tiger in Junewani in their first Safari.

After breakfast Himanshu called me with the news that he will be able to get me Safari tickets for Friday and Saturday morning in Tadoba. This was the best news by far in our trip. I called up Svasara and they had a room open and they also confirmed that they will be able to get me a Safari for Thursday evening - I confirmed and everything was set.

In Pench - we would now be doing 7 Safaris. Till now - we had done 2 Safaris and had come out coppers in terms of Tiger sightings.

I must add that - my view on summers being the best season for Tiger sightings is not universal truth - it depends of terrain and the jungle.

With a jungle like Pench - where there is a mighty river flowing through the Jungle and that had enough waterholes, chances of getting a good tiger sightings are remote because of the heat. The window is very short - before the sun rises in the morning and then starting around 5 in the evening.

In any case - happy with the Tadoba booking we were looking forward to making the most of our time here in PEnch.

The next Safari was going to be the most happening one - but i did not know it yet

to be contd....
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Old 13th June 2012, 12:18   #12
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Default Re: Jungles of MP: Pench National Park in May - Caution Tiger Ahead

After lunch - we got ready for the afternoon Safari, in both our previous Safaris the route allocated did not have Bagin Nala or Junewani and i was determined to get the route with Bagin Nala for this Safari.

Went to the ticket window and asked the guy there for allocating me route no. 4 that is the one with Bagin Nala. He told me that he cannot do it, but the person who validates the tickets, etc at the entrance gate can. So we went to that person and requested - he got a little agitated, but i was adamant and finally after a big lecture about this route being only about bagin nala and nothing else and if we did not get to see the tiger there nothing else in the route, he relented and changed my route to route no. 4.

So we paid up the guide fee and were allocated a guide - Rohan. Why am i taking his name here? Because Rohan was supposed to be a "lucky" guide. I was thinking - well, we will see.

So we set off in the jungle and decided to go directly to Bagin Nala. reaching there, everything was silent and the 2 guards still stationed there. There was already one gypsy there waiting and we also joined them. Suddenly there were some alarm call and we were excited - but it turned out to be an anti climax, 2 forest guards coming down on foot.

The other gypsy got tired of waiting and decided to make a round of the surrounding areas - they left. And came back after sometime and then left again.

Rohan thought that we should also leave and try our luck someplace else. So we also started after a little while, there was a bend in the track with a patch of golden grass to the left of the bend as we were negotiating that bend - Rohan suddenly exclaimed - TIGER!!!

The driver slammed on the brakes and we all turned back in the direction where rohan was pointing - and we saw this.

Jungles of MP: Pench National Park in May-img_2496.jpg

It was amazing - the eyesight and spotting capability of Rohan. I guess more than luck it is becuase of this that he gets so many Tiger sightings, the other gyspsy had just gone through this stretch 5 mins ago and they had not spotted the tigress.

We were very excited and clicking pictures when we heard the forest guards heading our way. Rohan immediately asked the driver to move forward and asked us to not to show any excitment and not to tell the guards about the sighting as they will chase us away. So we went ahead chit chatting and looking here and there till the guards corssed us and vanished in the forest again. Now we again backed up - and went to the site.

This was the best sighting that we had till date - in terms of Tigress and cubs together, till now we had only seen a solitary tiger and never seen cubs. Also - no other gypsy, so no pushing or prodding and no racket, just us and the tiger family

The kids were busy playing emboldened with the presence of their mother - and the mother, ever alert was sitting there looking after them.

There were 3 kids - 2 females and 1 male.

Now for the pics.

Jungles of MP: Pench National Park in May-img_2504.jpg

Look at her - aint she beautiful, also looks well fed
Jungles of MP: Pench National Park in May-img_2506.jpg

Jungles of MP: Pench National Park in May-img_2515.jpg

Jungles of MP: Pench National Park in May-img_2519.jpg

Jungles of MP: Pench National Park in May-img_2529.jpg

Jungles of MP: Pench National Park in May-img_2532.jpg

Jungles of MP: Pench National Park in May-img_2536.jpg

The cub posing for us
Jungles of MP: Pench National Park in May-img_2589.jpg

Jungles of MP: Pench National Park in May-img_2590.jpg

Last edited by sach.sri : 13th June 2012 at 12:25.
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Old 13th June 2012, 12:59   #13
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Default Re: Jungles of MP: Pench National Park in May

Wah, wah. Bahut badhiyan Sachin babu. Baghin Nala at her best. I still remember this angry flash in her eyes when she gets disturbed. The cub looks naughty and very very cute.
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Old 13th June 2012, 13:54   #14
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Default Re: Jungles of MP: Pench National Park in May

hey the pictured are really good and can make out that you would have had one of the good surprises of lifetime.. very nice photography.
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Old 13th June 2012, 14:21   #15
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Default Re: Jungles of MP: Pench National Park in May

El fantastico. Once you look into a tiger's eyes apart from your own fear, one cannot miss that these tigers are themselves afraid of us humans. It is there in their looks. Its so sad that such beautiful creatures are killed mercilessly for commercial gains. Keep the pictures flowing.
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