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Old 28th December 2012, 14:51   #16
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Default Re: Fullmoon in Kumaon: Snapshots from a 7000km cross-country roadtrip

Awesome pics. Please do share the itenary and details. I would love to do this someday.
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Old 28th December 2012, 21:02   #17
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Default Re: Fullmoon in Kumaon: Snapshots from a 7000km cross-country roadtrip

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Originally Posted by wanderer4x4 View Post
Great photos in the great locations at a great time. October onwards is the right time for those unhindered, magnificient Himalayan views and fullmoon is the real icing on the cake...oops! mountains. I missed them due to my timing of an April visit. But, good on you, that you were at the right place at the right time..
Thanks. I put in some effort to ensure that the trip happened at the right time. Missed Mukteshwar, will visit next time when I do a Corbett trip.

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Originally Posted by A.G.The Rambler View Post
Awesome photos Nilanjan. What lenses did you use for the night shots?
I used the stock 18-105mm mostly. Some shots with the 70-300mmVR. Would you believe that I forgot to carry my tripod when I saw the best moonrise in my entire trip?

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Originally Posted by daisyb View Post
Never knew that these areas are so beuatiful till I saw these pics. Is it possible to do this trip in a lesser risky way than you had taken .
You didn't know that Kumaon Himalayas were beautiful? Visit and see.

I am not sure what you mean by risky, but yes, I would have planned the trip differently if I were traveling with family. You can easily visit all those places where the photos were taken and stay in comfort...well, maybe not Sitabani, but if you want to stay in a FRH you need to adjust your mindset. And you can always take the flight/train/taxi option to Kumaon and do what most tourists do.

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Originally Posted by Thamizha View Post
Awesome pics. Please do share the itenary and details. I would love to do this someday.
Thanks, will be covering those. There are many beautiful places e.g. Corbett FRHs, Binsar, numerous British-era FRHs, the glacier regions further up North where I didn't go this time. Not counting the usual tourist circuit of Nainital-Ranikhet-Kausani-Bhowali etc. You would need to plan properly if you are a first time visitor to Kumaon.
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Old 29th December 2012, 15:23   #18
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Default Day 1: Mumbai –Kishangarh, Oct 19

I called up HVK and we decided that we will meet in a Thane restaurant around 8. Did a late checkout from the hotel, waited in the lobby for a while (checking the route on my phone’s Google Maps) and then proceeded with the luggage to the parking lot. The vehicle had accumulated lots of dust due to the long drive and then 2-days parking in open air. Cleaned the glass areas, didn’t bother with the body. I don’t care about a shining vehicle when out for a roadtrip. In fact I ended up cleaning the vehicle just twice during the trip - once in Kaladhungi, once in Munsiyari.

Morning drive in Eastern Kumaon
Fullmoon in Kumaon: Snapshots from a 7000km cross-country roadtrip-dsc_0423.jpg

Took me a while to pass through Powai traffic and touch Eastern Express Highway. Got stuck near the toll. Was very surprised to see hatchbacks changing lanes and crashing another queue at the slightest of opportunity. What happened to the orderly Bombay traffic that I had experienced for 9 years when I used to live there? Such behaviour makes me mad, but I had decided that I won’t get upset during this road trip no matter the provocation. After all, I was sure that I would face all sorts of crazy folks and creatures (and I was not disappointed) on this 7000km journey. So was mentally prepared for oncoming traffic (two-wheelers, cows, camels, tractors, bicycles, trucks, buses – you name it) driving on my side of a 2X2 or 3X3 highway, sloppy drivers, suicidal humans and animals jumping on the road, crazy bumps (makes one curse the local government). Whenever I would face a situation, I would take a deep breath, tell myself ‘this is reality, no point in getting upset’ and drive on.

I must say that while road conditions and road behaviour were atrocious in interior/rural parts of India, all the people I met and took help from (e.g. asking directions) were really warm and friendly.

Boar River bed, Kaladhungi
Fullmoon in Kumaon: Snapshots from a 7000km cross-country roadtrip-dsc_7932.jpg

Anyway, I got lost in Thane for a while, and called HVK to let him know that I was parked near a factory gate. He was waiting for me on the highway (near the restaurant), and I was waiting for him 100m from his house – which I got to know later! Soon I saw his vehicle stop behind me. After meeting and greeting, we went to the dinner joint. A few of his friends joined us (one of them was RahulTomahawk – The Toyota Land Cruiser/Fortuner guy), as did my brother, my sister in law and my friend who arrived around 9pm. We ended up staying there till 10:30/11PM if I remember. HVK took care of the tab before I knew what was happening. I felt bad because I had thought we were going Dutch (treat on me when he visits Bangalore).

Watch tower in Sitabani
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My brother talked me into staying back at his place, and I figured that I would be pretty tired for a ~ 1000km drive tomorrow if I land up near Surat around 3 AM. So off we went. Chatted till 1.30 AM (I had planned to crash by midnight, but that was wishful thinking) about all sorts of things. My brother is a Western Classical music and art movie aficionado (and a nature lover+ Corbett fan) so he discussed about movies and music while I picked up a biography of Corbett (by Martin Booth) and did multi tasking – talking, reading and mentally planning out next day’s drive milestones (where, by when) based on the changed schedule.

Somehow my phone alarm didn’t go off in the morning, but D’s (my friend’s) did at 4.15 AM. Got ready quickly, was out of the house a little after 5 and reached Ghorebunder crossing around 6 AM.

A Griffon Vulture flies over a ridge
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Truck traffic was bad! Trucks plodding along on all 3 lanes, cutting lanes and overtaking another vehicle if the relative velocity difference were 5 kmph, and Sumos/Taveras driving crazily. After filling up Diesel at a pump that was open (there was some strike going on, pumps inside Bombay were shut), I had to do some weaving in and out – sort of like the car video game we used to play 20 years back –to get in front of the truck caravan. And then at a toll, while I was stationary and waiting for my turn, there was a crash from the back and the vehicle lurched. A stupid Tavera driver (barely 20 years old) – who had come 6 inches behind me – let go of his clutch by mistake and banged into me. Ordinarily nothing much would have happened, but this guy had an iron bulbar with two sharp vertical edges. So my rear bumper got dented and ended up with two vertical, deepish dent marks.What an auspicious start to the journey!

The guy apologized, and was ready to offer some money, but I let him go (maybe I should have taken the 500 bucks just to reach him a lesson). What’s done is done. Many years back – when I had started driving –I had bumped into a vehicle in a similar manner in bumper-to-bumper traffic, and that guy got down, looked at the minor scratch, and drove off without saying anything. Since then, I have tried to return the good deed to people who bump into me from the back. And somehow, almost every bump I have had came from the back when I was stationary – in traffic or at a fuel pump!

I drove off with the dents refusing to go away from the back of my mind. Anyway, thankfully that was the first and last accident on the trip.

Sitabani Forest Rest House
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Reached Surat, had breakfast at McDonalds, and kept on driving. Traffic before Baroda was moderate. Crossed Ankleshwar through the town as per HVK’s advice. Kept my mirrors folded on the Golden Gate bridge. I rely on my side mirrors a lot, and it felt strange not being able to use them. I can’t understand why/how many vehicles fold mirrors and drive the moment they are on a highway - the added visibility and safety are surely worth the aerodynamics compromise!

After some high speed cruising on Baroda-Ahmedabad Expressway, we reached Ahmedabad outskirts around 1.30PM if I remember correctly. I was careful to bypass the city and not get inside by mistake since I didn’t have those Yellow stickers.

The two-lane stretch just after the city – before the road again becomes 4 lane – had bad corrugations. Narrowly averted accident a couple of times when first a bike, and then a Santro braked suddenly, sharply turned and appeared in front of me (they were focusing on avoiding the corrugations than on maintaining situational awareness or checking whether there were vehicles behind). After that, I didn’t cross 50kmph till I hit the 4 lane road.

On the way to buy Chicken...slightly more interesting than driving down to the neighborhood meatmart in Bangalore.
Fullmoon in Kumaon: Snapshots from a 7000km cross-country roadtrip-dsc_8615.jpg

The landscape started changing, with the country getting more arid, emergence of sandy terrain and hills covered with scrub forest. Started seeing camels and peacocks. The roads were empty but corrugated in stretches (pitch melted and formed ridges due to the summer heat). One needs to be careful. Had good veg lunch at a popular roadside restaurant, and soon crossed the Rajasthan border. Decided to bypass Udaipur, but got stuck for 45 mins in the midst of trucks while trying to bypass the city.

Due to the lack of sleep the previous night and this jam, we decided that we will spend the night in Kishangarh instead of in Jaipur. HVK recommended a heritage hotel, and we called and reserved a room. Crossed Chittor in the dark. Industrialization seems to have caught up with these heritage towns – I had expected more scenic and emptier surroundings for all these fort towns. While crossing the numerous dhabas in the evening I was thinking of Bollywood songs set in highway dhabas - how come we seldom see what we saw in movies such as Dil Hai Ki Manta Nahin or Raja Hindusthani?

Sunset in Jhirna,Corbett
Fullmoon in Kumaon: Snapshots from a 7000km cross-country roadtrip-dsc_8141.jpg

The evening drive was tiring, but the peppy songs played on D’s Blackberry tablet helped. Was feeling tired by the time we reached the Kishangarh hotel around 9.15 PM. Nice hotel, but rooms were small. Given the theme and decor, they should have cut down on the number of rooms and made them more spacious. The staff was very courteous though.

Had a refreshing bath, and then went down for dinner in the bar/restaurant downstairs. After reading for a while, went to sleep around 11.30 PM. 1100 KMs were done, but from next day we would be venturing off the 4-lane highways into crowded UP. Our Kaladhungi booking started from 21st, and I wanted to reach Corbett park area and spend the night of 20th in a nice location. Since I drove to Mumbai for work and started the journey from there, we would be able to steal in one extra night of forest stay.
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Old 29th December 2012, 18:09   #19
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Default Re: Fullmoon in Kumaon: Snapshots from a 7000km cross-country roadtrip

Brilliant photos and description, rated 5 stars
It gives me goosebumps when i see any Fortuner resting near/on the river bed, doing serious off roading and all that stuff. To buy a car like this and only use it on highways isnt worth it.

Great thread, carry on.
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Old 29th December 2012, 18:32   #20
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Default Re: Fullmoon in Kumaon: Snapshots from a 7000km cross-country roadtrip

Fantastic snaps and well written too, some snaps are just too "oooh" You know what I mean .
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Old 29th December 2012, 18:37   #21
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Default Re: Fullmoon in Kumaon: Snapshots from a 7000km cross-country roadtrip

Thanks for a wonderful travelogue exploring an area that I love and have travelled to till some years ago. Your photographs are brilliant, as also your narration.

Rated a well-deserved 5 stars.
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Old 29th December 2012, 19:13   #22
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Default Re: Fullmoon in Kumaon: Snapshots from a 7000km cross-country roadtrip

Mr. Nilinjan Ray. When I read the introduction, i kid you not, had goosebumps. The exceptional intro that set the mood and scenario of the trip, is followed by breath taking photos and beautiful narration! I am officially your fan. You are really lucky to do such an amazing trip and of course we can earnestly feel your sincerity towards your passion.

I salute you. This is why I love team-BHP. There are so many people here that inspire us!
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Old 29th December 2012, 21:23   #23
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Default Re: Fullmoon in Kumaon: Snapshots from a 7000km cross-country roadtrip

Wow, another exquisite thread. Some of the Fortuner pics is brilliant. I must admit, whenever I see that watch tower photo (in any threads) in Team-BHP, for some unknown reason reminds me of your Travelogues with Fortuner

Great narration. Thanks for sharing.
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Old 29th December 2012, 21:46   #24
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Default Re: Fullmoon in Kumaon: Snapshots from a 7000km cross-country roadtrip

My God !! What a beautiful country we have !!! Motivates me to do this type of holidaying.
Cheers!
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Old 30th December 2012, 01:16   #25
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Default Kishangarh – Mohaan, Uttarakhand, Oct 20

Quote:
Originally Posted by coolboy007 View Post
Brilliant photos and description, rated 5 stars
It gives me goosebumps when i see any Fortuner resting near/on the river bed, doing serious off roading and all that stuff. To buy a car like this and only use it on highways isnt worth it.

Great thread, carry on.
Thanks. Unfortunately 80% of Indian Fortuners are chauffeur driven and relegated to mallroading duties :-(

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Originally Posted by Lukeskywalker View Post
Fantastic snaps and well written too, some snaps are just too "oooh" You know what I mean .
Thanks

Quote:
Originally Posted by SS-Traveller View Post
Thanks for a wonderful travelogue exploring an area that I love and have travelled to till some years ago. Your photographs are brilliant, as also your narration.

Rated a well-deserved 5 stars.
Thanks. Kumaon is one of my favourite places, and I have been going there since when I was a kid. The Bong wanderlust...

Quote:
Originally Posted by thumpingheart View Post
Mr. Nilinjan Ray. When I read the introduction, i kid you not, had goosebumps. The exceptional intro that set the mood and scenario of the trip, is followed by breath taking photos and beautiful narration! I am officially your fan. You are really lucky to do such an amazing trip and of course we can earnestly feel your sincerity towards your passion.

I salute you. This is why I love team-BHP. There are so many people here that inspire us!
Thanks! Hope you make many such trips in the future.

Quote:
Originally Posted by AvonA7 View Post
Wow, another exquisite thread. Some of the Fortuner pics is brilliant. I must admit, whenever I see that watch tower photo (in any threads) in Team-BHP, for some unknown reason reminds me of your Travelogues with Fortuner

Great narration. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks. Yes, I often hang around watch towers :-)

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Originally Posted by Seacat View Post
My God !! What a beautiful country we have !!! Motivates me to do this type of holidaying.
Cheers!
India is one of the most beautiful countries in the world. Very few places have the natural beauty and diversity we have. If only we could realize the tourism potential!
-------------------------------------------------

We woke up late, around 5:30. The sun hadn’t yet risen, and the weather was somewhat sultry and warmer than expected. There was a small balcony adjoining the room, and when I went outside, I saw a large lawn below. There were a number of pigeons cooing, and from far away I could hear the distinctive cry of a lapwing.

Had a quick shower, settled the bill, and was on the road around 6:30. The Kishangarh-Jaipur Expressway is wide, and one can cover the 100km distance fast, but we decided to cruise sedately. There was moderate truck traffic that became heavier as we approached Jaipur. One truck - while I was overtaking it - delighted us with its horn: a great imitation of the Nagin tune.

Panchachuli Glacier
Fullmoon in Kumaon: Snapshots from a 7000km cross-country roadtrip-dsc_0535.jpg

Decided to trust Google Maps instead of going through the town and asking people. Unfortunately the recommended route led us into narrow roads, and we wasted a good hour trying to get out of Jaipur before we hit the Agra highway. Traffic lessened once we crossed the outskirts. Saw a number of camels on the Jaipur-Agra highway, and a few times I thought I would stop and take some photos, but decided against it since we had lost time. We didn’t stop for breakfast, but drove on, munching dry fruits and sipping juice and water (I end up drinking lots of water on a long drive –helps me stay hydrated and fight fatigue). Faced jams a couple of times, with traffic getting diverted the ‘ulta’ way.

One of the long, straight stretches in Sitabani Forest
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There were two ways of reaching Yamuna Expressway – through Bharatpur-Mathura and through Agra. I decided to go via Bharatpur-Mathura since the route was shorter. The road became bad the moment we exited the highway for Bharatpur. Not that it mattered to the vehicle, but the potholes and slow moving traffic slowed us down. I followed Google Maps directions to enter Mathura and took the highlighted route that supposedly led to the Expressway entry point. Mistake –should have gone through town instead of trying these shortcuts (I never learn). The road was horrible. And when we finally reached the Expressway, there was no entry point in sight. We found that Google Maps wanted us to offroad through a sandy track and the climb up to meet the highway. Took the sandy track through fields, but there was no end to the YEH barrier.

The same peak as the one in the first post of the thread...but during sunset.
Fullmoon in Kumaon: Snapshots from a 7000km cross-country roadtrip-dsc_0592.jpg

I hated the idea of going back to Mathura through the broken road we had taken to reach here, so stopped the vehicle and asked a couple of local vehicles going to a nearby village. They said that there was an entry point through a small town/village 18 kms away. After some deliberation (it could have been another red herring), decided to drive to that village. The road was 10 feet wide, and passing through fields and small hamlets. Scenic, but broken. Was delighted to see Nilgais standing in a field without any concern as local folks moved around. But the moment I stopped, they moved a few hundred feet away.

The Nilgais
Fullmoon in Kumaon: Snapshots from a 7000km cross-country roadtrip-dsc_7832.jpg

After some 12 odd kms, I stopped and asked a few local tough guys, lazing around a garage, about how far that village was. One guy said 5kms ahead. Another guy thought for a while and said that the road ahead was worse, and recommended that we take a shortcut route that starts 100m ahead. I thanked them and moved ahead. There was a delightful track, barely wide enough to accommodate the vehicle, with a narrow canal on one side and 10 feet tall grasses – we call them Kashful in Bengali – on the other. There were herons and kingfishers hanging around the canal, whose water was a brilliant shade of green. I took that track, partly because it seemed so picturesque, and thankfully it led to the village we had been aiming for.

Now, from that village, as per the map, there was a road to Aligarh and from Aligarh to Moradabad. Should we take the shorter route instead of the detour through Noida? Well, enthused by the beautiful track we had come on, I decided to proceed on the Aligarh route. Mistake! Soon the road was filled with a few million humans, cows, autos and buses. And we waited in front of a level crossing for 15 mins without any sign of a train. I said some unmentionable words, managed to turn the vehiclearound with some aggressive honking, and went back to the village from where there was an entry to YEH (the local folks were right as usual).

'Raptor Cliffs' near Vinayak
Fullmoon in Kumaon: Snapshots from a 7000km cross-country roadtrip-dsc_8996.jpg

I wanted to do some high speed driving to make up for the lost time, and also because YEH is probably the best high speed expressway in India now. But then I remembered reading in the papers that the speed guns had become operational a few days before. Bummer! Didn’t want to risk any encounter with UP cops given the outstation numberplate, so ended up cruising at 100kmph as per the speed limit.

No breakfast, no lunch. Had stopped at a foodjoint on YEH, but didn’t like the look of it. Reached Noida exit around 3.30 PM. I must admit that in spite of the two bad shortcut experiences, I was tempted to try out another shortcut – take Bulandsahar exit and then hit NH24 after passing through Bulandsahar etc. – but my friend thankfully talked me out of it. No problem. But I believe in consistency – if I have already made two bad decisions in the day, why not make more? So I somehow ended up taking the wrong Noida exit. Asked a few people (including Manuuj of Team BHP), but then made the mistake of again looking at the map. There seemed to be another shortcut that would enable me to reduce a few kms and reach NH24. And when I asked an auto, he told me to take that shortcut route. Well, that shortcut led through an industrial area full of truck traffic and then through crowded marketplaces. There were 1 foot deep craters on the road, the entire population of UP – two and four legged - out on the streets, and stationary traffic. Took us 45 minutes to extricate ourselves from the mess. Reached NH24 after lots of huffing and puffing. Still no food apart from what we ate in the vehicle in the morning.

Chaukori KMVN Resort
Fullmoon in Kumaon: Snapshots from a 7000km cross-country roadtrip-dsc_9803.jpg

After we crossed Hapur, the kms started passing by quickly. We stopped at Gajraula McDonalds for our first meal of the day. While eating, I evaluated the stay options and decided to spend the night at Mohan (or Mohaan) KMVN. Called up KMVN office, got the Mohan number after some false starts, and told the manager (whose name was also Mohan) that we will come and also have dinner. He was surprised that we had even heard of the Mohan KMVN, since it was just one year old, and very few folks knew about it. I told him that I had read about it on the net. Well, sort of. I had been keeping track of the Sunderkhal maneating tiger last year – the one that killed 7 people around Sunderkhal, a village a few kms from Mohan. While Googling I had seen a photo of Mohan KMVN, and instantly liked the tall trees and stilted cottages. Besides, I like staying in government tourist lodges (they have great locations, are relatively inexpensive), and this Mohan was the Mohan of Corbett's "The Mohan Maneater".

Black Storks in Bijraini, Corbett
Fullmoon in Kumaon: Snapshots from a 7000km cross-country roadtrip-dsc_8264.jpg

Well, so the accommodation issue was solved over phone. I was excited because we would have to pass through stretches of Corbett National Park in the night to reach Mohan. I had travelled through Mohan 6 years back when coming down from Ranikhet, and the surroundings were beautiful. Anyway, we reached Moradabad quickly, and once again I made the wrong choice of going through town instead of taking the bypass. Seemed like I could never make the right decision in UP! Got stuck in traffic, and finally got out of Moradabad after wasting 30 minutes. I was pleasantly surprised to see how the town had changed in 6 years. Consumerism is booming in Tier 3-4 cities such as this – I saw numerous outlets for designer brands. Felt good to see such vibrancy and growth outside the big cities.

We reached Kashipur and then crossed into Uttarakhand. Passed through some bad stretches. Almost had an accident as a bus overtook me, driving crazily, and then swerved and braked in front. Thankfully I was paying attention, and stopped 6 inches behind the bus. Reason for such crazy driving: a lorry had done something that offended the bus driver (either not giving way or perhaps cutting him off), and that lorry happened to be right behind us. So the bus wanted to block the lorry and sort out the differences (whether verbally or physically, we didn’t stop to see – I just reversed, turned, crossed the bus and drove off without even cursing the bus driver).

Setting sun
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Ramnagar was almost deserted when we crossed it around 9 pm. I knew that Mohan was on the Ranikhet road, so this time there was no direction issue. Besides, this was UK, not UP- my jinx had passed. Started driving slowly as we came out of Ramanagar and entered Corbett NP buffer zone. Passed the numerous resorts, went over a couple of dry watercourses (stopped at each of them to see if there were animals around, but no luck), asked for direction at a checkpost and then finally reached KMVN Mohan around 9.30 PM.

After sunset around Pangot
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KMVN staff was friendly as usual, and quickly rustled up some grub for us. Had a shower, and then came outside to the balcony. The whole area was covered with Teak or Sal trees, and I could see the stars peeping out among the treetops. Could hear the sound of Kosi River that passed below the resort. Heard some Sambhar alarm calls – a big cat was moving somewhere close. The cool breeze - which became a cold breeze - was a nice change after the heat and dust of the plains. We sat up till well over midnight, chatting and enjoying the moonlit atmosphere. I was finally feeling relaxed – the cannonball drive – a prologue of close to 1900 kms - was over, and we had made it to Kumaon as per schedule!

The route map (Mumbai - Mohan | 19-20 Oct)
Fullmoon in Kumaon: Snapshots from a 7000km cross-country roadtrip-picture1.jpg

Last edited by nilanjanray : 30th December 2012 at 01:28.
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Old 30th December 2012, 01:33   #26
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Default Re: Fullmoon in Kumaon: Snapshots from a 7000km cross-country roadtrip

Beautiful shots, Nilanjan! Thanks for taking me back in time.
The Chaukori KMVN bungalow looks exactly like what I had seen it around 15 years back, during my college days.

Did you trek to Milam Glacier?
How's the road at Kalamuni Top now?


Rated 5 stars.

Last edited by aryasanyal : 30th December 2012 at 01:34.
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Old 30th December 2012, 10:10   #27
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Default Re: Kishangarh – Mohaan, Uttarakhand, Oct 20

Mesmerizing. Thanks for taking on ride to Kumaon. Been on my list since long, better happen soon now. 7k - 11 days eh? Waw!

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Originally Posted by nilanjanray View Post
Unfortunately 80% of Indian Fortuners are chauffeur driven and relegated to mallroading duties :-(
Absolutely and that is why I love your logs of Wanderings with the Trusted Fortuner. What a way the Fort to put to use, truly doing full justice to it.

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Originally Posted by nilanjanray View Post
India is one of the most beautiful countries in the world. Very few places have the natural beauty and diversity we have. If only we could realize the tourism potential!
Couldn't agree more. Each direction is so vast with so many varieties. This is one unique country with all things together. At times Sikkim, J&K, Himachal, UP could overshadow even Swiss Alps. Just hope people realize there is no dearth of suitable places to visit in India for every season. Thanks for bringing them out so wonderfully in your logs.
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Old 30th December 2012, 10:35   #28
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Default Re: Fullmoon in Kumaon: Snapshots from a 7000km cross-country roadtrip

@nilanjay - this is an epic! Hats off to your resolve - very enviable, I should say

Great destinations, Brilliant photographs and excellent narration...

Last edited by chetan_l : 30th December 2012 at 10:36. Reason: Corrected grammer
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Old 30th December 2012, 12:44   #29
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Default Re: Fullmoon in Kumaon: Snapshots from a 7000km cross-country roadtrip

B-E-A-Utiful! Particularly the snow-covered peaks. Thanks.
An awesome roadtrip, very very tempting indeed!

On another note, an avid reader of Jim Corbett's books myself. Jim Corbett's India captured some of his outings, but not all. The ones I enjoyed most (in order of preference) - The man eating leopard of Rudraprayag(probably his most challenging), the Thak man eater (his last), the Chowgarh tigers (the most befuddling), the bachelor of Powalgarh (the magnificent!), and others. Your mention of Kaladhungi, Mohan etc., very nostalgic reading, too.

Last edited by CowlFlap : 30th December 2012 at 13:10.
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Old 30th December 2012, 13:23   #30
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Default Re: Fullmoon in Kumaon: Snapshots from a 7000km cross-country roadtrip

Quote:
Originally Posted by aryasanyal View Post
Beautiful shots, Nilanjan! Thanks for taking me back in time.
The Chaukori KMVN bungalow looks exactly like what I had seen it around 15 years back, during my college days.

Did you trek to Milam Glacier?
How's the road at Kalamuni Top now?


Rated 5 stars.
Thanks! A few more rooms have been added to Chaukori KMVN. No time to trek to Milam, wasn't in the agenda. Need to get fitter too to start trekking again - last time I went on a proper Himalayan trek carrying a backpack, I was 15 kgs lighter lol. Kalamuni road is ok apart from a few broken stretches. Low GC sedans could have problems going over the sections that were getting built after the landslides.

Quote:
Originally Posted by parsh View Post
Mesmerizing. Thanks for taking on ride to Kumaon. Been on my list since long, better happen soon now. 7k - 11 days eh? Waw!



Absolutely and that is why I love your logs of Wanderings with the Trusted Fortuner. What a way the Fort to put to use, truly doing full justice to it.



Couldn't agree more. Each direction is so vast with so many varieties. This is one unique country with all things together. At times Sikkim, J&K, Himachal, UP could overshadow even Swiss Alps. Just hope people realize there is no dearth of suitable places to visit in India for every season. Thanks for bringing them out so wonderfully in your logs.
Thanks. 7000km was the overall distance covered for the round trip from Bangalore. Fully agree about our country having better raw scenic beauty - especially in the Himalayas, forests and beaches - than most of the top destinations in the world. I come from the only state that has snow as well as sea. But the tourism infrastructure is pathetic in WB. I guess population and apathy are a couple of issues.

Quote:
Originally Posted by chetan_l View Post
@nilanjay - this is an epic! Hats off to your resolve - very enviable, I should say

Great destinations, Brilliant photographs and excellent narration...
Thanks.

Quote:
Originally Posted by CowlFlap View Post
B-E-A-Utiful! Particularly the snow-covered peaks. Thanks.
An awesome roadtrip, very very tempting indeed!

On another note, an avid reader of Jim Corbett's books myself. Jim Corbett's India captured some of his outings, but not all. The ones I enjoyed most (in order of preference) - The man eating leopard of Rudraprayag, the Thak man eater, the Chowgarh tigers, the bachelor of Powalgarh, and others. Your mention of Kaladhungi, Mohan etc., very nostalgic reading, too.
Thanks. Do you have the two Corbett omnibuses that cover all his stories? You should get them - worth it.
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