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Old 8th January 2013, 12:44   #46
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Default Re: Fullmoon in Kumaon: Snapshots from a 7000km cross-country roadtrip

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Originally Posted by lordofgondor View Post



OT: When when're you there mate? We did the Chamoli to Chopta drive on 27th Dec through the Kedarnath Musk Deer WLS and had cool wildlife sightings..
We were there on chiristmas eve.
The road had lot of snow, but we managed it in 4WD. Most vehicles were parked around 2kms before chopta with a lone Thar and a couple of gypsys going till top. The Gypsys are owned by resorts before chopta
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Old 9th January 2013, 12:32   #47
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Default Re: Fullmoon in Kumaon: Snapshots from a 7000km cross-country roadtrip

Superb travelogue Nilanjan. It is really a treat going through the pictures and you narration is great too. I really don't know if/when I can ever visit these places, but till then travelogues like this should suffice.

Sigh!! one more for the bucket list.
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Old 9th January 2013, 16:07   #48
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Default Re: Fullmoon in Kumaon: Snapshots from a 7000km cross-country roadtrip

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Originally Posted by addyhemmige View Post
Superb travelogue Nilanjan. It is really a treat going through the pictures and you narration is great too. I really don't know if/when I can ever visit these places, but till then travelogues like this should suffice.

Sigh!! one more for the bucket list.
Thanks.

Why the negative outlook?

Flight to Delhi, night train or day drive to Kumaon, and you are all set.

Bangalore - Kumaon will add 6 days extra in terms of driving there and back, if you want to do a India darshan x-country drive.
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Old 11th January 2013, 14:53   #49
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Default Re: Fullmoon in Kumaon: Snapshots from a 7000km cross-country roadtrip

Amazing words and even better pictures. This is my home territory and I have seen these places umpteen number of times, but made them feel livelier than before..

Hats off, Sir! The Panchachuli shots are especially nice.

Cheers,
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Old 11th January 2013, 19:51   #50
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Default The peaks of Central and Eastern Kumaon

I realized that I hadn’t provided any detail about the Kumaon peaks so it is time to correct that oversight.

Information about some of the more interesting peaks have been taken from the web (with due credit given). The photos are mine.

Trishul
"Trisul is a group of three Himalayan mountain peaks of western Kumaun, with the highest (Trisul I) reaching 7120m. The three peaks resemble a trident - in Hindi/Sanskrit, Trishul, trident, is the weapon of Shiva. The Trishul group forms the southeast corner of the ring of peaks enclosing the Nanda Devi Sanctuary, about 15 kilometres (9 mi) west-southwest of Nanda Devi itself. The main peak, Trisul I, was the first peak over 7,000 m (22,970 ft) to have ever been climbed, in 1907." More info here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Trisul

This time I got a very different view of Trishul - from the East (where the Trishul shape is not readily apparent), and during sunset. Took me some time to realize that I was looking at Trishul.

Mount Trishul, 7120 m
Fullmoon in Kumaon: Snapshots from a 7000km cross-country roadtrip-trishul.jpg

Mrigthuni
Means Deer’s Chin or Navel. Supposed to be relatively easy to climb.

Mrigthuni, 6855 m. Photo taken from a Chaukori hilltop in the morning.
Fullmoon in Kumaon: Snapshots from a 7000km cross-country roadtrip-mrigthuni.jpg

Panchachuli Group
"The Panchchuli peaks are a group of five snow-capped Himalayan peaks lying at the end of the eastern Kumaon region, near Munsiyari, in Pithoragarh district, Uttarakhand state, India. The peaks have altitudes ranging from 6,334 metres (20,781 ft) to 6,904 metres (22,651 ft). They form the watershed between the Gori and the Darmaganga valleys.

The five peaks on the Panchchuli massif are numbered from northwest to southeast. The highest peak is Panchchuli II, which was first scaled by an Indo-Tibetan Border Police expedition, led by Mahendra Singh, on 26 May 1973. The group's name is derived the legendary Pandavas's "Five Chulis" (cooking hearths), where they cooked their last meal before proceeding toward their heavenly abode."
More info here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Panchchuli

The Panchachuli Group.
6355 m, 6904 m, 6312 m, 6334 m, 6437 m from West to East
Fullmoon in Kumaon: Snapshots from a 7000km cross-country roadtrip-panchachuli-group.jpg

Nanda Devi and Nanda Devi East
"Nanda Devi is the second highest mountain in India and the highest entirely within the country (Kangchenjunga being on the border of India and Nepal); owing to this geography it was the highest known mountain in the world until computations on Dhaulagiri by western surveyors in 1808. Its name means Bliss-Giving Goddess. The peak is regarded as the patron-goddess of the Uttarakhand Himalaya.

Nanda Devi is a two-peaked massif, forming a 2 kilometres (1.2 mi) long high ridge, oriented east-west. The west summit is higher, and the eastern summit is called Nanda Devi East. Together the peaks are referred to as the twin peaks of the goddess Nanda. The main summit stands guarded by a barrier ring comprising some of the highest mountains in the Indian Himalayas (one of which is Nanda Devi East), twelve of which exceed 6,400 m (21,000 ft) in height, further elevating its sacred status as the daughter of the Himalaya in Indian myth and folklore.


The eastern summit earlier called Nanda Devi East is now also referred to as Sunanda Devi . Together the peaks may be referred to as the peaks of the goddesses Nanda and Sunanda."
More info here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nanda_Devi

Nanda Devi has claimed many climbers' lives - I was surprised to read just how many! The Devi doesn't like human trespassers polluting her beautiful abode, it seems. No wonder she has those 64400m+ peaks guarding her sanctuary from all sides!

Sunrise: Nanda Devi (7816 m) & Nanda Devi East/ Sunanda Devi (7434 m).
Fullmoon in Kumaon: Snapshots from a 7000km cross-country roadtrip-nandadevi.jpg

Maiktoli
"Mt Maiktoli lies on the outer wall of Nanda devi sanctuary. An Indian team led by Colonel J.C. Joshi gained the summit on September 25, 1990. This was the first Indian ascent by the difficult south face and ridge. They were caught by an avalanche on the descent but escaped unharmed." Source: http://www.peakware.com/peaks.html?pk=3828

Maiktoli, 6803 m
Fullmoon in Kumaon: Snapshots from a 7000km cross-country roadtrip-maiktoli.jpg

I have shared multiple photos of Panchachuli I - it is that triangular peak in the first post of this thread. Here's a closeup of Panchachuli 2, which is the highest peak in the Panchachuli group.

Panchachuli II, 6904 m
Fullmoon in Kumaon: Snapshots from a 7000km cross-country roadtrip-panchachuli-ii.jpg

Dangthal
This peak – located to the right of Nandakot - was straight in front of my room in Chauokri.

Dangthal, 6050 m
Fullmoon in Kumaon: Snapshots from a 7000km cross-country roadtrip-dangthal.jpg

A photo of Panchachuli III, 6312 m
Fullmoon in Kumaon: Snapshots from a 7000km cross-country roadtrip-panchachuli-iii.jpg


Nandakot
"The name Nanda Kot literally means "Nanda's Fortress" and refers to the abode of one of the sacred forms of the Hindu Goddess Parvati who in legend has made her sanctuary amongst the ring of lofty mountains in the region.

Nuclear controversy:
In 1965, a covert mission was launched by an Indo-American team with the goal of installing a surveillance device on the top of Nanda Devi mountain to monitor Chinese nuclear and missile activity in Tibet. Shortly after delivery to the mountain, the thermonuclear generator designed to supply power to the sensor was lost during a storm and threatened to become a source of radioactive contamination to the area. Following upon at least three futile attempts between 1966-1968 to locate and recover the lost apparatus, it is said that in 1968 a similar device placed only the year before on Nanda Kot was dismantled. After more than a decade of secrecy, this story hit the Indian news media in 1978. There is still debate over these expeditions and whether any remnants of the radioactive materials remain in the vicinity of Nanda Kot to this day.
" More info here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nanda_Kot

Sunset: Nandakot, 6861 m. Not to be confused with Nanda Khat which is immediately to the East of Nanda Devi. Stopped the car on the way to Chaukori to take this shot. The Pine forest below was in deep shadow while the peak appeared Golden Red (or whatever shade, need a woman to identify the colour)
Fullmoon in Kumaon: Snapshots from a 7000km cross-country roadtrip-nandakot.jpg

Hasling
If you look to your left while in Munsiyari, you will see this steep rocky mountain with very little snow. Almost seems as if there is a temple on the top!

Mount Hasling
Fullmoon in Kumaon: Snapshots from a 7000km cross-country roadtrip-hasling.jpg

Last edited by nilanjanray : 11th January 2013 at 19:56.
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Old 17th January 2013, 02:22   #51
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Default Kaladhungi, Corbett’s house, Jhirna (Corbett National Park) | Oct 22

“I am not so keen on another jungle walk, besides I need to catch up with some emails. You go ahead”. Said my friend before starting to snooze again.

Light and shadow, Boar River below
Fullmoon in Kumaon: Snapshots from a 7000km cross-country roadtrip-dsc_8010.jpg

No problemo. It is not as if a jungle walk makes for good conversation – either you are panting, and/or watching your step, and anyway one needs to be silent in the jungle. I got ready quickly – cargoes, the same long sleevedT, boots, hat and camera. By 6.20 am, I was waiting for Ganga Singh in the garden, listening to bird songs. They say there are around 375 bird species in and around Kaladhungi. Perhaps, I am not a birder and I wouldn’t know. He was punctual – he had walked from his house in Chhoti Haldwani village with just a stick for company.

Passing through thick undergrowth
Fullmoon in Kumaon: Snapshots from a 7000km cross-country roadtrip-dsc_8012.jpg

Ganga Singh and I started around 6:30am, and walked on the Nainital Road for a few hundred metres before taking a narrow track that led off to the left. This track led through thick undergrowth and climbed up, while going parallel to the Boar River.

Ruins of Corbett's 'hunting lodge'; reclaimed by the jungle
Fullmoon in Kumaon: Snapshots from a 7000km cross-country roadtrip-dsc_8013.jpg

Soon, I could see the river valley below, and the green hills of Kotabagh – with the sun shining on them - far away. We were still in the shadow, and there was a nip in the air, but the sweating started after I had walked a km or so. Well, that was to be expected.

As we were passing through a valley, I heard a Sambhar giving its alarm calls. We stopped for a few minutes, hoping to see the big cat, but apart from the Sambhar the forest was silent. We moved on. Came across an abandoned structure that was used to be an iron foundry, and also saw the ruins of a stone hut that was apparently built by Corbett and used as a hunting lodge. After a while the path started going downhill, and walking became easier. We crossed a small river bed. There were many spoors of herbivores, but no pugmarks. After the river the path became broad, and there were signs of tractor movement. It became apparent why – there was a small temple in the middle of the jungle, and it seemed locals regularly visited this temple.

A Lapwing on a dew covered glade
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This spot had its own, somewhat macabre history, and Corbett talks about this place in Jungle Lore. No hunting has been allowed around this temple – named after Baramdeo, a jungle god - for many years – from before Corbett’s time. Corbett writes that he was waiting for a tiger a few hundred metres from the temple, and the tiger was almost in range when a strange thing happened –two large trees toppled over slowly in the tiger’s path, stopping it from coming any closer. There was no wind, and no reason for the trees to fall like that. Corbett couldn’t explain, but wrote that the guardian deity prevented any animals from being killed within a radius of 1km from the temple.

The small river near Baramdeo temple
Fullmoon in Kumaon: Snapshots from a 7000km cross-country roadtrip-dsc_8019.jpg

The temple was in a small clearing, so Ganga Singh and I relaxed for a while. As I looked around, standing in the shade of tall trees, Ganga told me the story of the Baramdeo temple:

“Many many years back (long before Corbett existed), a group of young men from a local village came to play here. As part of their game, they decided to do a mock sacrifice, and built a wooden sword from the branch of a tree. After arguing among themselves, they decided that the priest’s son would be the bali ka bakra, while the headman’s son would act as the executioner. But something went wrong as they were playacting – the priest’s son was struck so badly on his neck that his head got severed. And that entire village was cursed by the priest, who also decried that no more killings should happen at this stop ever. A temple was built, but people avoided coming to this spot after dark because this place was frequented by spirits.

Some years after the ‘sacrifice that went wrong’ incident, some men from another local village tried to molest a girl. No one came to help her because those men were powerful. So she blindly ran into the forest in the night, and came to the temple by mistake. Those men were chasing her, and she didn’t know what to do. She heard a voice tell her to hide in the bole of a tree that was there beside the temple (Ganga Singh pointed at a tree as he spoke, and yes, there was a bole). But she was to sit with her back to the bole opening, and not look back no matter what she heard. If she did that, she would be safe.

That is what she did. The bole opening closed after her, and when those men came to look for her there, certain nasty things happened to them. The girl was able to go back to her village in the morning, and recounted what happened."

I looked around. The deserted place didn’t give any bad vibes (if you know what I mean), but there definitely was some sort of atmosphere around that place. Perhaps only those with evil in their hearts needed to watch out for Baramdeo’s wrath. In fact while thinking of what I heard I remembered what Corbett had written about this spot. Sadly no photos remain of this spot – I took landscape pictures using my Galaxy S2, which I lost later in Bangalore (lots of photos and videos were lost).

A curious deer
Fullmoon in Kumaon: Snapshots from a 7000km cross-country roadtrip-dsc_8035.jpg

We went along the tractor track after passing the temple. The forest here was a lot more cheerful compared to the temple surroundings. Walked into a beautiful forest glade, and surprised some Cheetal stags who ran away. Not all of them though – one hid after awhile to see what we did. Deers are curious too.

Boar River, downstream
Fullmoon in Kumaon: Snapshots from a 7000km cross-country roadtrip-dsc_8043.jpg

The track led to the Boar river. This stretch was full of water. It was difficult to look downstream since the sun – that had climbed above the trees – created a million stars in the surface of the water. The other side was calm, quiet and green. A Kingfisher sat patiently on a rock.

Peace and quiet all around
Fullmoon in Kumaon: Snapshots from a 7000km cross-country roadtrip-dsc_8039.jpg

We needed to cross the river, so we took off our shoes and socks and rolled up our trousers. The rocks and pebbles stung my feet – it had been ages since I had walked barefeet on rough ground, I thought wryly as I crossed over gingerly. I sat on a rock and put my shoes on, while admiring the beauty of the place.

Boar River, upstream. Pythons are common in the deeper pools - e.g. in the calm area in the shadow.
Fullmoon in Kumaon: Snapshots from a 7000km cross-country roadtrip-dsc_8045.jpg

The track on the other side of the river went parallel to the river, and seemed to be popular with all sorts of animals. Lots of deer and pig tracks. After a few hundred metres we came across a heap of tiger droppings. I had seen leopard droppings previously, but this my first time for a tiger’s. For the km or so, we followed the pug marks of a tiger. Seems a couple of days old, Ganga said. I hoped so. Surprising a tiger while it is resting or eating is not a good idea. The forest was beautiful around us. But there was no one to help if an animal decided to behave aggressively – we hadn’t seen a human since we left the resort a couple of hours back.

Tiger droppings
Fullmoon in Kumaon: Snapshots from a 7000km cross-country roadtrip-dsc_8052.jpg

We crossed the river again – this time over dry sand – a hundred metres from the place where I had come the previous evening. I was pleasantly thrilled to know that the track on the other side of the river was a favourite path of tigers.

Where we crossed the river
Fullmoon in Kumaon: Snapshots from a 7000km cross-country roadtrip-dsc_8047.jpg

After coming back to the resort I had a refreshing shower and a heavy breakfast. We had plans to do a Jhirna safari in the afternoon (we had got the safari permits through the resort owner’s contacts, but at a very heavy premium), but before that I wanted to visit Corbett’s house in Chhoti Haldwani.

A crack at HDR using a single image: A full moon rises over Panchachuli
Fullmoon in Kumaon: Snapshots from a 7000km cross-country roadtrip-moon.jpg

Before driving down to Chhoti Haldwani – perhaps a km from the resort –we went to see the tiger pugmarks on the path behind our cottage. A tigress and her cub had visited the resort the previous evening while we were out on our night drive. It seemed likely that they moved off when they heard our vehicle at the gate when we returned. A close miss – if we had stayed in the room or out in the garden (now that would have been thrilling!), I would have known from the alarm calls that there was a cat in the vicinity.
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Old 17th January 2013, 11:52   #52
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Default Re: Fullmoon in Kumaon: Snapshots from a 7000km cross-country roadtrip

Wonderful travelogue Nilanjan. Loved the photos as well as the narration
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Old 18th January 2013, 12:23   #53
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Default Re: Fullmoon in Kumaon: Snapshots from a 7000km cross-country roadtrip

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Wonderful travelogue Nilanjan. Loved the photos as well as the narration
Thanks Ashesh. And welcome to Team BHP!
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Old 19th January 2013, 13:32   #54
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Default Re: Fullmoon in Kumaon: Snapshots from a 7000km cross-country roadtrip

Thrilling narration though you missed the carnivore. Sad miss about the tiger and cub, eh?
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Old 19th January 2013, 16:14   #55
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Default Re: Fullmoon in Kumaon: Snapshots from a 7000km cross-country roadtrip

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Thrilling narration though you missed the carnivore. Sad miss about the tiger and cub, eh?
Thanks. Yes, I think of what would have happened if we were sitting in the garden and the tigress and the cub had come walking by.

One needs luck to see big cats. We could easily have seen a leopard walking on the Nainital Road - that road is famous for sightings. Who would have expected the cats to come visiting when you are out looking for them?

I am grateful about the luck that I had in Tadoba last year. Many folks spend years in the forests without so many sightings at close distance.
Sometimes you get good cards, sometimes you don't.
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Old 19th January 2013, 20:32   #56
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Default Re: Fullmoon in Kumaon: Snapshots from a 7000km cross-country roadtrip

Very nice travelogue Nilanjan. Add to it the fun of driving across the country.
So explorations around Bangalore have translated to bigger and long distances?
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Old 20th January 2013, 12:56   #57
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Default Re: Fullmoon in Kumaon: Snapshots from a 7000km cross-country roadtrip

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Very nice travelogue Nilanjan. Add to it the fun of driving across the country.
So explorations around Bangalore have translated to bigger and long distances?
Thanks. I had a proper India Darshan experience on this trip. Especially while travelling through the interiors. Not everything was fun though - but whatever happens during such a trip, one chalks it down in the 'experience' list.

This was my longest roadtrip so far, but in 2012 I did a few other drives - Pune/Dandeli, Tadoba, Goa/Bhadra. Wherever possible I try doing some stretches through the interior roads. Having a SUV/4x4 helps.

Himalayas pull me like no other place. If I had been in Delhi, I would have been doing in the Himalayas what I do in the Nilgiris and around Bangalore
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Old 21st January 2013, 08:54   #58
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Default Re: Fullmoon in Kumaon: Snapshots from a 7000km cross-country roadtrip

Fantastic...and the reason why do not start reading your travelogue early is that I just cannot see my self waiting for days while the travelogue un-spools from your mind to the forum pages. Lovely pictures.
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Old 21st January 2013, 17:07   #59
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Default Re: Fullmoon in Kumaon: Snapshots from a 7000km cross-country roadtrip

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Fantastic...and the reason why do not start reading your travelogue early is that I just cannot see my self waiting for days while the travelogue un-spools from your mind to the forum pages. Lovely pictures.
Thanks Sudev! More pictures and posts will come up soon. Long way to go - while I posted photos from most of the places I visited, it will take time to write and do justice to that part of the country I love so well.

Btw, I visited Sitabani and Pangot during this trip - with drives through the Sitabani/Kotabagh/Powalgarh forests.
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Old 22nd January 2013, 15:10   #60
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Default Re: Fullmoon in Kumaon: Snapshots from a 7000km cross-country roadtrip

Great Travelogue Nilanjan, Totally hooked. Photos are simply fantastic.

Have been to sitabani forest myself 2 years back. It's one hell of a spooky place once it's dark, the road is narrow and completely broken not a soul to be encountered. The place just scared the hell out of us, we didn't even roll down our windows. Got so scared that we turned around our swift after just a few kms and rushed out. All the spooky stories we heard and thoughts coming to our minds just got to us.
If you are lucky you can spot some wild animals. we saw a deer herd and i think we also heard what sounded like elephants, i am not sure. it was very dark.
Entry point if i am not wrong is to your left just after crossing the bridge from Ramnagar side and a barricade hangs though always open.

I have also always wanted to visit Munsiyari but time and situation never really aligned. will wait for u to get there, waiting for information about that corner.

Last edited by mavrikm5 : 22nd January 2013 at 15:37. Reason: errors
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