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Old 23rd October 2013, 21:59   #16
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As we reached the office 5 minutes early at 2040 the kind gentleman smiled at me and said that they were waiting for us, as we are late. Late? I said its 2040 only, yes he said but as per IST. Ahh ! how awkward and embarrassing. But they were gracious enough to accept the forms and click our pictures. And then he told me to wait 5 minutes as he had decided to issue us the permits there and then. By 2050 IST we had our permits till 19th the day we planned on coming back to Pshling from Thimpu. Happy we went for dinner at the Garden Zade and retired for the night.

It took one copy each of our passports and the kids dependent ID cards and one pp size photo of each person. A handshake, an exchange of our visiting cards and a smiling bye.

Next day I got up early, yes 0830 is early for me, and walked to the RSTA office to check the possibility of getting the vehicle permit as well. I was told by a kind gentleman that the permit shall be issued by the RSTA from 1100 to 1300 only as it was a public holiday. I returned back at 1130 to find two guys waiting outside the room. I asked about the forms and as it turns out it would need an application on white paper and a copy of your Vehicle registration, Insurance and the PUC certificate. I had everything except the plain paper. I borrowed one on which they had made some mistakes and hence had discarded. Wrote my application, attached the documents and waited for my turn.
Five minutes later I was sitting in front of the smiling officer who took my application and noted my BRTF address. Asked if it was my first time and when I told him about my previous 2010 visit with the rally he tore up the permit he had already signed for Thimpu and Paro! I was shocked but he merely smiled and wrote up another by adding all the names he could probably think of in Bhutan. That way I would not be required to go to RSTA at Thimpu for getting the special route permits in case I changed my mind to visit the other places, I was delighted and grateful. Also he issued the permit for 15 days while my entry permit was only for 7 days.

Chatted with him for a few more minutes and then as a true bureaucrat he walked out with me for a cup of tea locking the office and telling the others to wait for 20 minutes as he had his tea before getting around to checking their applications. I felt completely at home in his office!

He told me about the mask dance being held at Tashimasham about 10 Kms from Chhuka. Curiosity piqued, we decided to go for this 100 km one way sojourn as the last dance was supposed to be at 1530 BST and it was still only 1200 hrs. The driving time was supposed to be about 2 to 2 hrs 20 minutes. It started to rain as well but we started off after visiting the crocodile park which was only 2 minutes drive from the RSTA office. Also there I chanced upon a Royal Bhutan Government Bus, the route board of which read: Pheuntsholing to Kolkatta. Never heard of this particular bus, maybe the Kolkatta guys can shed some light on this.

As we raced against time for the mask dance we reached the site around 1400 hrs but close to the city we saw a large number of people in bright clothes hurrying home from the rain. The ominous sign turned true and we were told that the programme is just about to end early due to the rain. We could catch only the last few minutes of the dance. Thoroughly disappointed we retraced our steps back to Pshling. Had dinner at the Peljorling Hotel and called it a day. Total Kms done 220, 5 hrs and total disappointment.
The day in Pictures:
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Last edited by wanderernomad : 23rd October 2013 at 22:21.
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Old 24th October 2013, 09:09   #17
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Default Re: To the Land of the Thunder Dragon : Bhutan

Good one , interesting line up of vehicles in bhutan , really a picturesque country .
How are the border officials and the police officers , supportive or shrewd??
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Old 24th October 2013, 10:16   #18
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Originally Posted by wanderernomad View Post
Great. You shall be driving down or flying in? Need any assistance PM me and I shall spring up a few local contacts for you.
yes I am driving, entering from PLing and exiting from Samdrup Jonkhar

Please do send me the contacts, thanks
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Old 24th October 2013, 12:25   #19
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Originally Posted by rkbharat View Post
yes I am driving, entering from PLing and exiting from Samdrup Jonkhar

Please do send me the contacts, thanks
Ok will send over but be advised the road is a mess and you need to factor in some extra driving time to your plans if you have kept it a tight schedule.

@behaln: You wont find a more friendly set of officials anywhere else in the world. Period.

Last edited by wanderernomad : 24th October 2013 at 12:26.
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Old 24th October 2013, 13:21   #20
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Originally Posted by wanderernomad View Post
Ok will send over but be advised the road is a mess and you need to factor in some extra driving time to your plans if you have kept it a tight schedule.
Thanks
I have 10 days in Hand within Bhutan.

BTW what sections are bad? and how bad?
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Old 24th October 2013, 13:53   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wanderernomad View Post
Ok will send over but be advised the road is a mess and you need to factor in some extra driving time to your plans if you have kept it a tight schedule.

@behaln: You wont find a more friendly set of officials anywhere else in the world. Period.
Quote:
Originally Posted by rkbharat View Post
Thanks
I have 10 days in Hand within Bhutan.

BTW what sections are bad? and how bad?

Till 2012 April when i last visited roads were in very good condition other than a certain stretch after Duchula pass towards Wangdu where road widening was in progress. Though i don't have much knowledge of whats happening towards Bumthang/Trashigang. What happened in the last 1 year that the conditions have deteriorated.
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Old 24th October 2013, 14:40   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rkbharat View Post
Thanks
I have 10 days in Hand within Bhutan.

BTW what sections are bad? and how bad?
Quote:
Originally Posted by A.G.The Rambler View Post
Till 2012 April when i last visited roads were in very good condition other than a certain stretch after Duchula pass towards Wangdu where road widening was in progress. Though i don't have much knowledge of whats happening towards Bumthang/Trashigang. What happened in the last 1 year that the conditions have deteriorated.
I don't have the exact details but I was dissuaded not to go this year towards Samdrup Jongkhar. I was told that even locals are travelling through Pshling-Assam to got towards Mongar and Samdrup. Ill try and find out how bad are the sections and the specific parts.

Day 4: 15/10/13. Target Paro.
Started for Paro and due to the misguided run of the previous day had a fair knowledge of the route till Chhuka and also the stops needed to be made enroute.

Pshling: 0830 hrs: 75804 kms.
The first immigration check post was reached at 0835 hrs with odo at 75813.
Gedu: 0940 Hrs: 75851 kms. There is a business school here and a lovely spot for photography due to nice weather, read fog enveloped, and a large prayer wheel alongside the road. Fuel is also available here. The road is all up hill till this point with an occasional broken patch and the longish Jumja Slide area of about 20 mtrs of broken path with a rock slide. The road is downhill till Chukka again.
Next stop was the Dantak Canteen at Wangkha 1045 hrs: 75875 kms. The only place you will get Dosa/Sambar/vada. So do make the most of it. Poori Sabzi and Chana Bhatura are more or less and taste the same as well. You can save a kingsly 5 rupees by ordering Poori Sabzi rather than the Bhatura. Also do try their Jalebi @ 90/Kg its worth the sweet tooth indulgence.
Chukha: 1130 hrs: 75899 kms. It includes about 20minutes of stoppage time due to a rock slide just 100 mtrs short of Chukkha. The blockage was cleared by individuals themselves braving the constantly falling stones. The road was cleared only to the extent of getting the small cars across much to the chagrin of the drivers of the coaster busses. The road is up hill with hair pins till Bunagu where it will descend till Ta Zong Jam. The road from this point onwards becomes narrower.
Tsimasham: 1200 hrs: 75900 kms.
Bunagu: 1215 hrs: 75908 kms. It has a Bhutan Tourism Café and also a Petrol Pump. The roads start having a steepish kerb here and any high speed manoeuvre to go on the shoulder needs to be handled with care.
Ta Zong Jam Checkpost: 1240 hrs: 75918 kms: The second point where your entry permits are checked. There is also a lovely bridge. This point is in deep shadows and people travelling in winters please note that it would be shivering cold when you step out of your vehicles at this point.
Chapcha: 1250 hrs: 75923 kms. The road climbs upto this point. It is also the HQ for the 60 RCC of the 19 BRTF. You can get assistance for both the vehicles and the passengers here. The road climbs upto the highest point of this route and then descends to Watsa.
Watsa: 1300 hrs: 75933 kms. The good wide road starts from here again as it follows the river.
Damchu: 1315 hrs: 75941 kms.
Chuzom: 1320 hrs: 75946 kms. This is the confluence of the Thimpu and Paro Chu. We turned left to paro while the road continues straight to Thimpu.
Bondey: 1400 hrs: 75981 kms.
This was where we were putting up. Nice small township with the river flowing real close to the road offering many opportunities to walk to the river bank. Also the HQ for the 102 RCC.
The Day in Pictures:
Attached Thumbnails
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Last edited by wanderernomad : 24th October 2013 at 14:43.
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Old 24th October 2013, 19:01   #23
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Day 5: It was reserved for the trek to Taktsang (pronounced as stag tshang) Gompa or better known as the Tigers Nest. On an average it takes about 2 hours of climbing for a normal adult. The monastery is closed for lunch from 1300 to 1400 hrs. You are required to wear your formal clothes i.e. no shorts or sandals. You cannot keep your head covered and are forbidden to take cameras inside. Women are supposed to be wearing full sleeves and ankle length trousers/skirts. The Gompa or temple is devoted to Guru Padmasambhava the protective saint of Bhutan. The trek is about 5 kms and takes to a height of about 10,200 ft to the temple. On the difficulty of the trek it would be about 6 on a scale of 10 mainly because at places the gradient is very steep.
About the mid way mark there is a Bhutan Tourism Café but be advised it is very costly. You would do well to carry packed lunch with you from the town itself. Since we had 2 small children with us we planned it in a way to reach the temple around 1300, rest and have lunch before the Darshan and then start back by 1430. It had been raining for the past 2 days and the fear of weather packing up made us carry more woollens than necessary especially for the kids. What we were wearing also came off and added to the weight of our already heavy backpack loaded with food, biscuits and water. Added to it I had to carry my youngest daughter on my shoulders/back through the steeper portions of the trek. (Got some good flattering comments from other pilgrims who were panting and puffing their way up with me carrying both a back pack and a child).
Ill let the pictures do the talking now:
Attached Thumbnails
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Last edited by wanderernomad : 24th October 2013 at 19:03.
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Old 24th October 2013, 19:39   #24
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Good to see you back Sir, that too in Bhutan . Hope you are reliving some of the experiences you/we had last time and surely missing some more.
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Old 24th October 2013, 23:01   #25
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Good to see you back Sir, that too in Bhutan . Hope you are reliving some of the experiences you/we had last time and surely missing some more.
Thanks mate. You back in Kolkatta or still living down there only? We need to meet one of these days or the embarrassment shall never cease. Yups had fun and walked through the Thimpu streets again. Showed the family the spot at Pshling where we met for the first time. Remember?

Trivia: Walking sticks are available at the start of the trek. Price quoted varies from season. Peak tourist season its about 70 Nu but you can easily bargain to about 30-35 Nu. General price is 20-25 Nu.

Trinkets available at the parking lot are more sedately priced than the main Paro town and with a little bargain, can be had at quite a nice price. Stones, ember, metal being the pick of the lot.

Natural water is available, provided you have a bottle to carry it along. You will need water on your way up. Plus keep a few candies or lollies to suck on, on your way up.

There are numerous shortcuts, but do not be tempted to take them, unless you are a seasoned trekker and know how to ascend/descend steep slopes. And please wear comfortable walking shoes at least in case you do not have high ankle trekking shoes.

The turn off can be easily missed, so keep an eye out for the road branching to your right on a slightly dipping curve, once you have driven about 7 kms from the Paro Town.

Last edited by wanderernomad : 24th October 2013 at 23:04.
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Old 25th October 2013, 05:09   #26
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Thanks for the wonderful travelogue. We are planning to visit Bhutan next year and the information shared in this thread will be helpful.

Quote:
Originally Posted by wanderernomad View Post
Also there I chanced upon a Royal Bhutan Government Bus, the route board of which read: Pheuntsholing to Kolkatta. Never heard of this particular bus, maybe the Kolkatta guys can shed some light on this.
Yes, we availed this bus service from Phuentsholing to Kolkata way back in 1990. It was an AC bus, but the AC had been removed the day before as the passengers had complained of water dripping. Being an AC bus, the windows were sealed and it was a 20 + hours journey. We came to know about the AC after boarding the bus . Hope it was a one off case and things have improved nowadays.
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Old 25th October 2013, 22:59   #27
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Yes, we availed this bus service from Phuentsholing to Kolkata way back in 1990. It was an AC bus, but the AC had been removed the day before as the passengers had complained of water dripping. Being an AC bus, the windows were sealed and it was a 20 + hours journey. We came to know about the AC after boarding the bus . Hope it was a one off case and things have improved nowadays.
1990 was too far back so I guess things would have improved. I should have clicked the picture of that bus . However from outside the bus seemed to be not in so good a condition. The paint was wearing off and the beacon on the roof was broken. I don't remember exactly but it seemed to be an AL chaises.

Anyway, after the trek from the Tigers Nest we drove to the drugyul dzong which lay a further 5 odd kms from the point where we joined the main road on our way back. Official timings are till 1700 and we reached at about 1725 but it was open. I guess there is nothing to close it down and hence it stays open. Inside are bare lawns surrounded by high walls, a typical run down ruin of a fort. We retired back to bondey.
Next day we decided to Drive upto Chelela Pass, the highest pass on Dantak Projects in western Bhutan.
Bondey: 0930 hrs: 76040 Kms.
Chelela: 1045 hrs: 76078 Kms. It is at a height of 3988 mtrs. A beautiful wind swept pass. There at first my elder daughter decided not to step out so I left her inside the car with my keys still inside and wandered off for some photops. Soon she joined us and told me excitedly that she has locked the car through the driver door lock which locks all the four doors! I had no words. The keys were still inside. I asked my wife for the spare keys in her purse and guess what, the purse was also inside the car. Here we were at a height of 3988 mtrs, locked out.
I ran back to the car and saw the keys dangling from their position. A few Coaster Bus drivers intrigued by my HR number had mean while sauntered over and were soon gaping at the dangling keys. Fortunately my glass was rolled down a few cms so we tried pushing our arm in but the gap was very little. My daughter tried her luck but still the gap proved to less.
Meanwhile one of the drivers found a short stick with a knob at one end. So we pushed the stick in but the key needed to be rotated first before it could be pulled out. After about 10 mins of twisting and bending the key moved and the ring was snapped onto the knob. Now while pulling if the keys fell to the floor we would have to find a flat scale to open the door lock the old way. But the keys stuck fast and were brought upto the glass level and pulled out. I forgot to click the pictures but it was an extremely lucky turn of events. I thanked the guys who helped and upon enquiring that Haa also had a petrol pump we decided to go to Haa and continue to Thimpu via the longer road which led straight to the confluence.
Haa: 1205 hrs: 76102 kms.
Haa has a dzong presently occupied by the IMTRAT. The car park looked like an ordinary car park in a North Indian City rather than the interior of Bhutan. The picture will explain it. Availability of food is a dicey affair in Haa. However, there is a small restaurant above the Bus Stop and market square which gives excellent Pork Momos.
Jenkana: 1311 hrs: 76117 kms.
Nagu: 1340 hrs: 76135 kms.
Bibeka: 1350 hrs: 76140 kms.
Susuna: 1435 hrs: 76159 kms.
Ksongkha: 1500 hrs: 76173 kms.
Chuzom (Confluence) 1515 hrs: 76181 kms. This is where we join the road to Thimpu once again.
Wangsisina: 1530 hrs: 76193 kms.
Bebesa: 1600 hrs: 76206 kms. This was our stop where we were staying in a rented service apartment. It is a suburb of Thimpu right on the expressway and also the way to Dhochula.
Now the day in Pictures:
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Old 26th October 2013, 11:15   #28
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Was not able to check out the forum for the last few days, and now I see that the log' is already up and has reached "Dragonous" proportions with great details and superb pics.

BTW, never knew that there were crocs in Dragon land.

Where did you encounter the snow? Chelela pass? (Sounds similar to Sela pass on the way to Tawang).
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Old 26th October 2013, 18:10   #29
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I suffered a similar ordeal with my safari some years back. Left the keys on the seat and was talking to someone when a gentle nudge closed the door. Didin't give a thought then. After ten seconds the remote lock got activated and the car locked.

To cut the story short, after an ordeal managed to open one of the doors and retireve the keys. A lesson learnt a hard way.

Ever since, I keep both the keys in my pocket always. Don't trust them with anyone..!

Quote:
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There at first my elder daughter decided not to step out so I left her inside the car with my keys still inside and wandered off for some photops. Soon she joined us and told me excitedly that she has locked the car through the driver door lock which locks all the four doors! I had no words.

The keys were still inside. I asked my wife for the spare keys in her purse and guess what, the purse was also inside the car. Here we were at a height of 3988 mtrs, locked out.
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Old 26th October 2013, 21:53   #30
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Nice travelogue. Keep going.
I have plenty of questions to ask you, but will wait till you finish the log.
My contacts in Bhutan told me its pretty cold there now. (My plan is to go in late november). Where did you find the snow?
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