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Old 7th April 2014, 21:11   #31
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Default The Ride to Gurudongmar

As I reach the ill lit courtyard, the motorcycle looks dead!
I kick it. It does not start.
I kick it again. It remains silent.
A kicks later, it purrs for a moment and goes back to sleep again.
Then I pump in more power and finally it springs back to life. I hold the throttle to the maximum limit and keep it on for a good 3-4 minutes. Subsequently I let it idle for 5 minutes.

Riding beyond the Snowed Out Vistas!-_dsc1454.jpg

I put the long beams on.
And the road ahead opens up before me.
The cold doesn’t threaten me anymore.
As I ride my way into the under the cover of the darkness

Occasionally you can see streaks of lights rising swiftly up the mountains, far away. These are actually the jeeps and tourist vehicles that are ahead of us. There are a couple of times when I ride over concrete bridges. It brings hope of black top on the other end of the bridge. But it’s a fruitless hope. The boulders are relentless. They are everywhere. And the road gets bumpier with time.

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The beams of head lights appear to be a natural extension of the motorcycle. They stretch far and wide and end in the darkness – a darkness that spreads into the bottomless valleys. Nothing is visible except the patches of the road which are lit up when the headlights point towards them. Whereas at other times, it is only the shrubs and bushes on the mountain sides that get illuminated.

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The motorcycle resembles a workhorse now. Stubborn. It stays faithful and answers the call of its rider.

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The darkness pales out and the sky appears to be a little bluer. There are peaks and ridges which appear all around me and overlook the valley.
By now the light is warm and diffused. Sometimes, you can see a band of light emerge from the edges of the hills behind and shine over the craggy peaks.

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Sometimes the visor of my helmet gets foggy from my breath.
Sometimes I find frozen ice and slush along the track that I am on.
Sometimes I stop and place my gloved hands on the engine to warm up.


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At a point I see a 13000 ft marker. The reading on the odo indicates that I have covered around 30 kms. The wide, brown track snakes its way through the mountain and I rise along with it. On my right side is a long column of motionless army trucks. And on my right are Army barracks, separated by wires and meshes. Tashi speeds up and crosses me. He indicates to look out for him nearby. And in the maneouvre, I miss a short stretch of a frozen stream, just ahead.
Bang!
The motorcycle slips and skids and hits the ground.It does not spare me either and I fall down.

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The landscape has turned into different shades of brown, white and black. It is time to pull over. At 14000 ft above MSL, I reach Thangu, the last inhabited place on this route.

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Tashi leads me to a small café. It is smoky and pitch dark inside and it takes time for me to adjust to the change in light. The almost square room has two beds placed at right angles. In the middle is a smoking wood fired oven. The guests are all huddled on the bed, numbed by the cold. They talk animatedly and almost everyone exclaims “Never knew that it can be this cold”. The host hands me a tall drink of tea. Then, she tosses a few breads in a momo steamer over the oven and fans the oven. The oven belches out more smoke and heat and roasts the bread slices which were tossed over it.
I take 5 to 6 cups of tea in the half an hour that I spend there.

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It is time to leave. Almost everyone warns me not to ride ahead.
But there are a few, who urge me to ride ahead.
I spend some time thinking, but the clocks keeps on ticking.
It is 7 AM now .
There is some pessimism, but also a little encouragement.
And it is with that little encouragement that I bring the motorcycle to life.
Attached Thumbnails
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Last edited by sayakc : 7th April 2014 at 21:41.
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Old 7th April 2014, 21:22   #32
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Default Re: Riding beyond the Snowed Out Vistas!

I continue the ascend and hit the snowline. Normally these places are devoid of snow in November. But Western disturbances, a few days back, caused heavy snowfall. No matter where you look, you won’t find a single shade of green. Strange rock formations, blankets of snow and dust envelope the sight. All around are military camps. And photography is prohibited.

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I cross the 15000 ft marker. The switchbacks decrease and I see the land flatten out. It is like a vast field, with towering peaks dominating the periphery. Like the Gods, they watch me play, as I ride along the track which has ripped through this field. This is a place thick with military camps and movements.

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All around is stillness.
The grey and brown hills. The rocks. The frozen river.
None. Nothing speaks and moves here.
Only I make too much noise but the noise seems to get absorbed into the walls of ice.

Riding beyond the Snowed Out Vistas!-_dsc1564.jpg

A few kilometers from the icy stretch, I see a heavy artillery presence all around. Smoke belching tanks pulverize the ground beneath the chains. They move lightning fast in this back breaking terrain. There are igloo shaped huts which serve as accommodation points. There are ammunition depots with sealed doors. Mine fields stretch out beside the track.

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And then as I think, I have crossed all the technical sections; I come across another rare icy switchback. I stop the motorcycle a few feet away from the icy zone and get down on the ground to inspect it. The ice is packed hard and there are few chances that it will melt, since it is in the shade of the sun.

Riding beyond the Snowed Out Vistas!-_dsc1576__.jpg

I ask Tashi to get down from his vehicle.
“Let us try to push it up the slope”, I say
“Okay”, he says. He sounds unsure.
So, I employ the strategy that helped me cover the earlier icy stretch.
I start the motorcycle and put it in the first gear and Tashi supports the tail. I use the clutch liberally as I navigate a few feet up the slope. But it proves to be an arduous task. Negotiating the clutch comes with difficulty. Sometimes the motorcycle over speeds itself, whereas at other times, it slips further. We try to keep it from falling, but over the packed ice it becomes impossible to control and it fall down with a thud. We get it back on the ground, but I run out of breath. I take rest at the side of the road and my breathing gets heavy. And before I can regain my energies, Tashi screams, “Sir”
And my immediate thought goes to the motorcycle.
Even with its side stand on, I see that it slips over the ice with increasing acceleration and falls down again. I wanted to arrest it from falling, but I lack the energy to do so.
Both Tashi and me look at each other with dismay.

But before I abandon all hopes, I give another push. This time I sit on the motorcycle and turn it on, shift to first gear and swing the accelerator. But the cycle does not budge. So, out of desperation, I turn on the full acceleration and the rear wheel frees itself from the ice. But it does not stop there. It cuts loose and leaps out like a wild horse and there is no way that I can manage it. It crashes hard on the ground and I see a chunk of ice scatter away due to the impact. And unlike the previous times, I cannot escape the cycle either and it falls upon me. The motorcycle lies over me and I cannot come out of it. Tashi tries to free me from under the motorcycle and somehow I manage to wriggle free. But my jacket, socks and shoes are all wet and cold.

The effect of the rarefied air is pronounced and heavy. I run out of breath and my throat becomes dry and I gasp for breath. I open up the tank bag and gulp all of the 1 litre super cold water. It does me some good.
The ordeal over the last 30 mins has opened up a gaping wound in my journey. And even though I am loathe admitting, but the bitterness of defeat is something which lasts even today. So, at 15500+ ft, just before the Giagong army check post, my journey on the motorcycle is over.

Riding beyond the Snowed Out Vistas!-_dsc1578.jpg

Last edited by sayakc : 7th April 2014 at 21:43.
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Old 7th April 2014, 21:29   #33
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Default The Ride to Gurudongmar

“What are you going to do sir?”. Tashi asks me.
“I haven’t thought yet”, I reply in disappointment.
I sit on the side of the road, listen to my heavy breathing settle down to normal, and try to think about what to do next.

Riding beyond the Snowed Out Vistas!-_dsc1568.jpg

“The thought of taking the motorcycle back to its base came to my mind, but I was preoccupied with the failure of taking the motorcycle up to Gurudongmar. May be a group of fellow riders would have helped. May be I should have carried a shovel to dig my own path. May be the weather Gods could have been a bit kinder. Or maybe this failure was a lesson of how much prepared one needs to be in this terrain.

There were several ifs and buts. However, at the end of the day, I should have calculated more precisely. This was November, and these were areas where disruption was routine. You needed to think about more ways that could cut short your journey; than ways which could make your journey. I looked at the limping motorcycle that was shining under the intense sunrays. It lay cold and lifeless.
‘Badlands. These were absolute badlands.’ I thought.

All around there was a gloom and disappointment. But there needed to be a way forward. And for that, I turned to Tashi. His support vehicle was the insurance to carry me all the way to Gurudongmar, should my motorcycle fail.”


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“I think we can get on your vehicle, Tashi”, I reply after a long pause.
Tashi is glad with my reply as I get on to the Bolero.
Atleast I get to see Gurudongmar, I think.

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Old 10th April 2014, 12:34   #34
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Default Re: Riding beyond the Snowed Out Vistas!

Quote:
Originally Posted by sayakc View Post
I get the feeling that satisfaction is something which can never be purchased - it is an intangible byproduct of a process.
You just summed up your incredible journey in this one sentence. Even though your trusted steed could not make it to the final destination, Are you satisfied?I know I am after "experiencing" your travelogue even though I do not know how it will end. And, thanks mate for taking me along on this trip. I really needed a break.

Last edited by Neil Roy : 10th April 2014 at 12:36.
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Old 15th April 2014, 11:48   #35
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Default Re: Riding beyond the Snowed Out Vistas!

Wow sayakc. What an incredible travelogue it is. Almost makes me jump up with excitement, kickstart my Classic 500 and ride to Sikkim. Riding to Zuluk on those loops has been a plan from quite some time now and I know I will ride there, very soon.

I would be glad if you could share a few more details like what was your itinerary on Day 3, Day 4 and also about the distance clocked, road conditions, details of stay in North Sikkim, details of permits required for Gurudongmar Lake and Yumthang Valley, hotel tariffs, etc.

Also how much time did it take to get the permits for North Sikkim through Dorjee? And his contact details please. You can PM me the contact numbers if you don't feel like making it public.

Thanks.

Last edited by //M : 15th April 2014 at 11:52.
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Old 22nd April 2014, 22:08   #36
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Default Re: Riding beyond the Snowed Out Vistas!

Hello Arunabh,
Sorry for the delay in replying. Here are the details:

Itinerary:
Day 1 & 2: Siliguri to Zuluk to Gangtok.

Day 3: Permit day. Since I did not have any prior contact, so I talked to a few travel agents on the MG Marg. Actually all of them said they will process my permit, but Dorjee's one was the cheapest. So, I opted for his. Actually, I don't have his phone no. with me right now, I will see if I can get it. He processed the permits in one day.And everyone else told me the same. Not much complicated, if you go via travel agents. But, if you go by self, then you need to go to Ministry of Home Affairs, Govt of Sikkim.

Day 4: Gangtok to Lachen. Distance: 130 kms.
Road Condition:
1 - Gangtok to Phensong - 80% good condition.
2 - Phensong to Chungthang - No roads, only boulders and gravels. However, road repair work was starting.
3 - Chungthang to Lachen: 60% good roads. Rest again gravels etc.

Day 5: Lachen to Gurudongmar.
Distance: 120 kms return.
Road condition: No roads exist. Breaks your back.
Lunch at Lachen and then onwards to Lachung via Chungthang.
Lachen to Chungthang: 60% good roads. Rest again gravels etc.
Chungthang to Lachung: Similar.


Quote:
Originally Posted by //M View Post
Wow sayakc. What an incredible travelogue it is. Almost makes me jump up with excitement, kickstart my Classic 500 and ride to Sikkim. Riding to Zuluk on those loops has been a plan from quite some time now and I know I will ride there, very soon.

I would be glad if you could share a few more details like what was your itinerary on Day 3, Day 4 and also about the distance clocked, road conditions, details of stay in North Sikkim, details of permits required for Gurudongmar Lake and Yumthang Valley, hotel tariffs, etc.

Also how much time did it take to get the permits for North Sikkim through Dorjee? And his contact details please. You can PM me the contact numbers if you don't feel like making it public.

Thanks.
Thank you so much Neil!I will complete the remaining travelogue from tomorrow.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Neil Roy View Post
You just summed up your incredible journey in this one sentence. Even though your trusted steed could not make it to the final destination, Are you satisfied?I know I am after "experiencing" your travelogue even though I do not know how it will end. And, thanks mate for taking me along on this trip. I really needed a break.
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Old 22nd April 2014, 22:17   #37
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Default Re: Riding beyond the Snowed Out Vistas!

Quote:
Originally Posted by sayakc View Post
Hello Arunabh,
Sorry for the delay in replying. Here are the details:

Itinerary:
Day 1 & 2: Siliguri to Zuluk to Gangtok.

Day 3: Permit day. Since I did not have any prior contact, so I talked to a few travel agents on the MG Marg. Actually all of them said they will process my permit, but Dorjee's one was the cheapest. So, I opted for his. Actually, I don't have his phone no. with me right now, I will see if I can get it. He processed the permits in one day.And everyone else told me the same. Not much complicated, if you go via travel agents. But, if you go by self, then you need to go to Ministry of Home Affairs, Govt of Sikkim.

Day 4: Gangtok to Lachen. Distance: 130 kms.
Road Condition:
1 - Gangtok to Phensong - 80% good condition.
2 - Phensong to Chungthang - No roads, only boulders and gravels. However, road repair work was starting.
3 - Chungthang to Lachen: 60% good roads. Rest again gravels etc.

Day 5: Lachen to Gurudongmar.
Distance: 120 kms return.
Road condition: No roads exist. Breaks your back.
Lunch at Lachen and then onwards to Lachung via Chungthang.
Lachen to Chungthang: 60% good roads. Rest again gravels etc.
Chungthang to Lachung: Similar.
Thank You so much sayakc. I am planning to visit Sikkim on my motorcycle in May and these details will be really helpful. While I am not sure if I will be going all the way to Gurudongmar Lake due to time constraints, but then I really want to ride over those loops in Zuluk. Thanks for this lovely travelogue.
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Old 25th April 2014, 22:58   #38
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Default Re: Riding beyond the Snowed Out Vistas!

This transition of landscape, from the conifers of Lachen to the cold, dry desert of Tso Lhamu is the most striking transition that I ever witnessed in my life. It is an arid, lifeless desert that lies in the rain shadow area of the Kanchengyao range. In the months of May and June, patches of green appear in the bleak, grey landscape. But now, there are only vast expanses of brown fields that extend as far as the eyes can see. Sometimes the brown is interspaced with patterns of enormous white snow fields that blind the eye. The dirt track pierces through this plateau, on while we travel along. For miles, there is not a soul to be seen.

I envision the sublime picture of a motorcycle rider, riding ahead. His arms are high, holding the handlebars. His legs resting on the foot pegs. And he sits in a relaxed, cruising position. Sometimes you can see his buffs sway and sleeves flutter in the wind as he rides on. And in his mind is boundless freedom.
But the picture is only a mirage.

Riding beyond the Snowed Out Vistas!-_dsc1507.jpg

Yaks. Tashi told me, that they were being prepared to be slaughtered. Dried, yak meat is a diet in the dry, cold winters in these places.

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Mountains within mountains.

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Snowed out mine fields. Separated by wires and meshes.

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These birds were the only creatures apart from human beings on the snow. Lively and chirping, they surprised me by their presence.

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Buddhist prayer flags "Om mani padme hum" fluttering in the gale that swept apart from the surface of the lake.

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The Kanchengyao range that guards the lake. Beyond the Kanchengyao is the Donkia La pass and the valleys of Yumesamdong, which I visited the next day.

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A thin crust of ice had accumulated on the surface of the lake

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The Lake...

Riding beyond the Snowed Out Vistas!-_dsc1594.jpg

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Old 14th May 2014, 23:47   #39
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Default Re: Riding beyond the Snowed Out Vistas!

The return journey is fast and unassuming. The feeling of saturation is overwhelming and I long to reach the motorcycle.

Riding beyond the Snowed Out Vistas!-_dsc1599.jpg

While returning back, the motorcycle feels as heavy as an elephant. It seems that its reluctant to travel. There are streams of water which are coming down the edges of the path, but the ice seems to have frozen solid at the middle.

Riding beyond the Snowed Out Vistas!-_dsc1600.jpg

At Thangu, there is some population to talk to. I pull over and explain the condition of the cycle. And they call a BRO worker. He fixes the self starter spring. But, he cant fix the dangling side stand. Instead, he ties the side stand with the motorcycle frame by a piece of cloth. Simple fix, and it solves my problem, albeit temporarily.


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I feel hot and remove the sweaters after sometime. There are flowers and trees, but they are no more beautiful. A dusty wind blows continuously and adds to the ferocity of the situation. At one turn, I notice a lone Army Gypsy going up the mountain, nimble and agile. Its windows are closed, covers all rolled down. The Gypsys really seem to have some character. Iconic!

The road winds down in sharp turns. And it’s a path over gravels and boulders and the brakes don’t seem to function and the motorcycle continues to skid. The drops appear human hungry and a single topple will push you down by several feet, straight into the river. When the motorcycle skids violently, I try to arrest the movement using my feet. At one of the turns,I try to stop the speeding motorcycle, even after full brake and engine braking, but still the skid continues. But my body has grown tired and the legs lack their strength. My head does not feel clear and I am in total disarray. A last ditch attempt to support the cycle fails, and I fall down. And I continue to lie down on the ground. I cannot lift myself, let along pick up the vehicle.

I reach the hotel and crash on to the bed. It is 1 PM and I call it a day. Lachung needs to wait, I think. I don’t have any energy. But later I get up. Post lunch, we start the journey from Lachen to Lachung.

When we reach Lachung, I am shivering again, but its intensity is lesser than yesterday. Guess, I am more prepared now.

Gradually the hills are drawing to a close. The motorcycle and me and I had always wondered what was there in life and finally found that there was an unbridled joy. The joy when you can do what you really want to do…

The thoughts of different things come to the mind, initially they are distinct, but gradually they mix up and start forming a cocktail, the divisions of thought never really remains. It means sleep is coming. That night my body shakes at times and I wake up from my sleep. It is like you are in a train and you know you cant sleep and so you drift into little sleeps, half conscious of the surroundings. Here too the body was too tired, the tiredness beat the sleep, but there is another long day the next day.

Good Night!
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Old 17th May 2014, 23:00   #40
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Default Re: Riding beyond the Snowed Out Vistas!

The clouds have disappeared into the void.
But there hangs a little amount of mist.

The darkness has faded into the light.
But it has taken the stars along with it.

The road travelled has been one of learning.
But it comes with its share of pain.

The moments of ecstasy, mingle with a tinge of failure.
But it leaves behind its trail of memories

And yes, it is the trail of memories which forces us to come to these mountains.
Again. And Again. And Again.

An experience like no other.
A joy like no other.
A satisfaction like no matter.

A story like no other.

It is still very early in the morning. I hold a cup of tea in my hand. I blow the tea cold, and its vapour catches onto the glasses of my spectacles. Then it goes away. I blow it again, and again it catches the surface and goes away. The tea has become a ritual of sorts over the past few days, I think, as I stand on a wide balcony of the hotel, struck by the lavishness of the wooden furniture. There is a small round table, with a couple of chairs at one end - everything rich and posh and it manages to catch the eye.

I spotted this nice wooden log house while riding from Lachung to Yumthang and Yumesamdong
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Rocky brown hills, and the sun shines on them strongly
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The silhouette of the trees dominates the foreground.
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The pines at Yumthang valley. I paused the ride for a moment here and then proceeded towards the hills of Yumesamdong.
Riding beyond the Snowed Out Vistas!-_dsc1656.jpg

That's the view of Yumthang valley from the valley of Yumesamdong.
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We spent a quite half an hour at Yumesamdong. The winds blew straight and cold, but we maintained the vigil. The roads were decent, if I may not say good. It was excellent riding here. The road ahead stretched to the Donkia La Pass, from where one can view the Tibetan plateau.
But unfortunately we didn't have a permit. Nor does the government issue one to Indian citizens.
Riding beyond the Snowed Out Vistas!-_dsc1665.jpg
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Old 29th January 2015, 22:25   #41
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Default Re: Riding beyond the Snowed Out Vistas!

After Yumesamdong, it was a straight, long and arduous ride to Gangtok and from then on to Kolkata by an overnight train.
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