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Old 8th December 2015, 12:33   #1
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Default A Trek up the enchanting Ettina Bhuja

Introduction:
After enduring the bumper to bumper traffic gridlocks, the rampant air pollution, the stress of sticking to hectic work schedules and all the assosiated annoyances of being a participant in the rat race, when I got an opportunity to leave it all behind for a weekend and go rough it out on a long trek, I had no hesitation in counting myself in. It ended up with 9 confirmed participants from an extended circle of friends and one thing we unanimously agreed upon was the need to camp under the stars for a night and not hurry through the trek just to get down before dusk.

We floated a lot of possible locations before finalizing on Ettina Bhuja, (literally translates to Ox's Shoulder, in Kannada) a relatively unknown peak deep in the Western Ghats. And when I say unknown, I meant exactly that! Unless you are a hardcore trekking enthusiast, this name features in none of the trekking calenders. Being a native of Karnataka all my life, I had never heard of this place before this expedition, and neither had any of my friends to whom I narrated my experiences. The upshot was we had the entire forested peak to ourselves for the weekend and didn't see a single soul apart from our group.


The discussions started a week before, and the tentative dates for the trek were fixed to coincide with the second weekend of November. It seemed however that the weather was in no mood to allow us to get out into the wild! Inceccesant rains over the preceeding 3-4 days threatened to throw all our plans right out of the window. We weren't afraid of getting wet, but since we had to ford a river at multiple points, we weren't sure it would be safe if the river was in spate. Things finally started looking up by Thursday when the rain let up and we had to start a mad scramble to get the gear ready for the morrow. A couple of us had tents purchased previously and the rest decided to pick up tents, sleeping bags and a trekking haversack on rent for the weekend.

There were a couple of experienced trekkers in the group so we had been informed beforehand on the items we would have to carry. Torch, plate, 2 litres of water,a change of clothes, tents, sleeping bags, mats, cap, fully charged power banks and most importantly, lots and lots of food!! With the possibility of rain looming over our heads, and the perennial trekkers favourite - Maggi still off the shelves we ruled out the possibility of having a campfire to cook our food on top of the peak, instead choosing the safe way and ended up with packed chapatis and dry tamarind poha.Lots of fruits and chocolates and packets of glucose completed the packing.


A Trek up the enchanting Ettina Bhuja-img_20151107_123516.jpg

A small preview to whet your appetites!


Ettina Bhuja is a peak that's about 1300m tall, situated about 40kms away from Dharmasthala, which is the nearest major town. To begin the trek, you need to get down at a place called Kukkada which is about 20kms before you reach Dharmasthala. Hire a cab or a bus or any means of transportation you can get hold of to reach Shishila, which is a small village at the base of the hills. There is this gentleman there by the name of Gopu Gokhale who has converted his house into a basecamp of sorts for enthusiastic trekkers.Shishila is the starting point for two treks - Ettina Bhuja and the more famous Amedikallu, which is adjascent to EB. For a fee, you can drop your luggage there, have some fresh hot food, freshen up and start on your trek. He even arranges for guides. Having a guide is absolutely necessary because the trail is barely visible due to the comparitively fewer people who visit it. The vegetation reclaims the trail very soon and there are some turns in the path which are not visible to the naked eye at all, only an experienced forester could follow it.
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Old 8th December 2015, 16:13   #2
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The Actual Trek :
We booked bus tickets to Dharmasthala, leaving from Bangalore on Thursday night at 11pm on a regular inter-city KSRTC bus. As is the norm when a bunch of enthusiastic young folk meet up for the first time, a lot of time was spent getting to know each other, trading stores of previous experiences and trying to convince ourselves the next two days would be a cakewalk. It was quite late by the time we finally drifted to sleep and we were so tired, we slept right through the remainder of the journey and completely missed getting down at Kukkada! Thankfully one among our group woke up in a haze a few kms out of Kukkada to check the GPS on the phone and find out how much longer before we get down. Imagine his surprise when he saw we had overshot by quite some distance!! He roused all of us up and once we knew the situation, we gathered all our bags before being unceremoniously dumped from the bus, on the side of a pitch dark road with nothing in sight!

Out came the flashlights and we started walking up towards Kukkada again. We came across a few lights in the distance and headed in that direction, to be welcomed by the cacaphonic barking of a couple of irate dogs. A small restaurant of questionable reputation materialized under the combined glare of our torches. The bemused shopkeeper listened to our story and said he would arrange a Jeep for us to go to Shishila. It was still 5am, so after haggling for a fair price, we settled down to wait for sunrise and salvation in the form of the jeep, with piping hot coffee warming our hands.

Now, I'm no expert on Jeeps and have to say, the initial impression did nothing to help. It was a battered old relic, with fading blue (I think) paint. I was thinking it would require two trips to transport us all but boy was I in for a surprise!? 9 of us, plus the driver and 10 huge camping bags with tents and stuff and the jeep gobbled it all up. I felt more comfortable in that rackety old jeep than I ever have in an Alto! :O My profound respect grew every passing km as the old car took us through the twisty little ghat sections to Shishila with nary a problem. I genuinely wish I had taken a few photos but what with all the rush to get the trek started and with dawn still some way off, it totally slipped my mind :(

We got down at Gopu's farmhouse. It is a beautiful property, with two cottages set in the middle of a lush plantation. The main house, and a smaller cottage out back for the trekkers to rest and freshen up. Verdant greenery, fresh smell of wet earth and piping hot coffee, our morning was already looking up.

A Trek up the enchanting Ettina Bhuja-img_20151107_074838.jpg
Beautiful wall art decorating the trekkers cottage.

A Trek up the enchanting Ettina Bhuja-img_20151107_074823.jpg
Lush green plantation around the house.

After a heavy breakfast of hot idly, chutney and sambhar we shouldered our packs and headed out to pick up our guide - a gentleman called Channappa. His knowledge of the forests is exemplary and was a boon to us over the next two days! We had to take a short cab ride from the house till the edge of the village, from where we started off with a short 15 min warm-up hike to reach the first river crossing.

A Trek up the enchanting Ettina Bhuja-img_20151107_095113.jpg

Since we had already confirmed that the river wasn't in spate, we weren't overly worried about the dangers of crossing. The water, while flowing swift was barely knee high. We had been led to a proper ford to cross over. What we were not expecting was the sheer magnitude of leeches all over! Yes, we knew it's the Western Ghats, and yes, we knew it was post-rains. But nothing prepared us for the sheer number of those blood sucking monsters around!!
A Trek up the enchanting Ettina Bhuja-river.jpg

There was not even one square foot of land without a few leeches on it! Much to our relief, the guide had the best solution for that. Finely crushed tobacco, almost powder-like in consistency mixed in oil. Stinks pretty awful, but slather a generous amount on your feet and more importantly, the shoes - I guarantee not a single leech will bite you. Of course, the efficacy wears off after a while so care must be taken to reapply the paste regularly.

The trail starts off broad initially, a nice walkway between tall trees with the sound of the river nearby giving you company for quite some distance. The gradient is not that high and you slowly climb up. There is very dense forest on either side and the trail gets narrower as you keep climbing up. Pretty soon the trail was all but a memory, and we had to rely on the guide to lead us on. There were a few tense moments when he gestured us to remain silent as he heard wild elephants roaming nearby. Although we were greeted by the sight of fresh elephant dung, we were lucky enough not to cross paths with any pachyderms. The higher up we went, the more I realized how woefully under prepared I was, for a physical effort of this magnitude! Broken trees littered the way and there were sections where you literally had to get on your hands and knees to crawl up. I dropped to the end of the line and almost everyone went ahead. The effort of lugging around a heavy backpack with tents and water and all the other stuff through incredibly steep inclines was taking a toll on me. The camaraderie and joking around was replaced by mechanical huffing and puffing and I focused only on putting one step ahead of the other, to the exclusion of everything else. To top it all off, our guide would go on ahead, hack a path through the dense bush with his ever present machete, come back down to us and chide us for being too slow!!

The day passed by slowly, the passage of the sun through the sky hidden by the dense foliage around. It's so easy to understand why people get lost here. Apart from the feeling of gradually climbing up, for the life of you, you will not be able to tell which direction you are travelling in!! The route to the peak goes thus - you start climbing Amedikallu (which is the adjacent peak) and about a third of the way up top, you move sideways and join Ettina Bhuja. You then proceed climbing up almost till you reach the top. As the peak itself is almost vertical, it's nigh impossible to continue with this approach. You'll end up circling around the top and approaching the summit from the rear.

As it was, the first sight of the Ettina Bhuja we got through the opening in the woods was more than enough to soothe frayed tempers and tired limbs.
A Trek up the enchanting Ettina Bhuja-img_20151107_123508.jpg
The thought of camping under the stars on top of the peak, (where you can see the green grasslands- which also happens to be the only place flat enough to pitch a tent in) rejuvenated us and we hurried on, eager to reach the summit.

It was already noon by then, and the breakfast we had eaten had been digested long ago. The josh of catching the first glimpse of the peak was short lived and fatigue returned with a vengeance! I might have been having a tougher time than the rest but that didn't mean the others were having a cake walk either.
The pristine beauty of the forest, the chirps of the birds and the occasional animal call, punctuated by the gurgle of water cascading down the streams, raw, primal nature untouched by signs of human activity was lost on the bunch of super hungry, sweaty humans all of whom just wanted to crash for a while and eat like there is no tomorrow haha!!

Finally, after almost 4.5 hours of climbing, we found a clearing big enough for the ten of us to sit down and stuffed our faces with the food that had been packed from shishila. We took a break for 30 minutes, resting our sore muscles. Before we headed out, it was time for the acid test. Had the guide's tobacco paste worked it's magic? Or were my legs teeming with bloodthirsty parasites?! With trepidation, I pulled my socks down and breathed a sigh of relief. There were only two bites, one on each leg. Considering the tens of thousands of leeches we had waded through, this was as good as it would get. A generous slathering of the anti-leech paste later, we continued on our way.

The way up got steeper, the footing got more treacherous. It took all my will power to put one foot ahead of the next. I kept convincing myself the view from up top will be worth the agony now. I felt like Donkey from Shrek. Every few seconds felt like the passing of an eon and I would go "Are we there yet"? The answers I got did nothing to help my mood! If you tell me there is an hour's worth of walk left, I'll steel myself to that thought and go on. If you tell me there is 5 minutes left, I will take your word for it and assume the end is near. Walking for five minutes only to be told it's just another few mins away, that too on multiple occasions!? NOT COOL!!

As we gradually neared the top, the dense forests started giving way to grass. Now, grass, to me is the lush green lawns you find in parks and in front of homes. Evenly trimmed, soft to touch. This however, was a totally different ball game. Wild, untamed, towering stalks of grass. Easily over 8 feet in length, it was a sea of dry, bull brown grass waiting to swallow you. It was so dense that you had to actually spread the grass apart like a curtain and step through! As soon as you're past it, the swaying grasses would come back and obscure everything again. You couldn't see the person five steps ahead of you. All you had were the sounds to guide you.
A Trek up the enchanting Ettina Bhuja-grass.jpg
It is the best place to play hide and seek! No other place I've ever played that game comes even halfway close to this when it comes to obscuring your trail and hiding lol. However, we were not here to play that, and with considerable amounts of yelling and trying to figure out the direction from which the sound reached our ears, we navigated through the sea of grass to finally reach the last forested climb before the peak.

The knowledge that there was finally flat ground to lie down on gave wings beneath me and I rushed ahead to finally collapse on the blessedly flat ground in sheer relief! Being mesmerized by the view could wait, I wanted to rest my tired bones first!
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Old 8th December 2015, 16:39   #3
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There was a stream nearby where we replenished our empty water bottles and all of us pitched in to help set the tents up. It was the first time I was ever pitching a tent and I hope I get the opportunity to pitch many more in the future! It was a fun exercise and quite easy to pick up. Special mention has to be made about the water from the stream at this point. No amount of RO KO XO purified water from the best purifiers on earth can compare to the sweet, chilled, naturally flowing water untouched by pollutants. A piece of heaven in a bottle, and all the more precious because it wasn't aged malt bottled in Scotland !
A Trek up the enchanting Ettina Bhuja-img_20151107_175827.jpg

Once the tents were pitched, we scrambled up to the peak to watch the sunset.
A Trek up the enchanting Ettina Bhuja-img_20151107_180810.jpg
It is this unique shape of the peak that's the reason behind it's name and once we went up on top, all chatter died down. The view from up top was worth the leech bites and the cuts and thorn scrapes. It's something that you don't get to see every day and the profound silence was a good indication of just how awed we were of the spectacle unfolding on the horizon. The threat of rains meant none of us carried along a DSLR and every single one of us to this day regret that. These photos are all clicked from my phone, and while it has done a good job, it can't ever hold a candle to a DSLR.
A Trek up the enchanting Ettina Bhuja-img_20151107_180851.jpg

A Trek up the enchanting Ettina Bhuja-img_20151107_162801.jpg

A Trek up the enchanting Ettina Bhuja-img_20151107_180934.jpg

That little silver line in the first photo was the river we forded earlier in the morning. Took us the better part of 8 hours to climb up to the peak, a total travel of around 10 kms.
A Trek up the enchanting Ettina Bhuja-img20151109wa0092.jpg

The red sunlight slowly gave way to twilight as stars started twinkling around the sky in their thousands. The soothing wind, the fresh, chilly night air, the companionable silence as we all soaked up the grandeur was definitely a soothing balm to the soul after the skulduggery of daily life in the metro.
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Old 8th December 2015, 19:13   #4
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Feeling quite elated with our achievement we trooped down back to the tents and lay down outside on mats, looking up at stars. The milky way was visible in all it's glory and the sight was captivating to say the least. A few shooting stars falling across the sky added to the feel of surrealism. This was another point where the lack of a DSLR meant all those stars stay only as a part of my memory.

We got lucky in that it didn't rain while we were up there. We got a roaring campfire going and everyone huddled around it to warm ourselves in the chill november night. We stayed up looking at the stars till we got drowsy and drifted off to the tents to sleep. The morning found us refreshed and ravenous!(again! lol) After a full breakfast and some freshly brewed tea thanks to our guide, we were in high spirits. The wind was so incredibly strong that unless one of us,or at least a couple of our bags were inside the tent, the whole structure collapsed and was almost blown away inspite of the pegs! :O
With bags and towels and loose pegs flying all over the place, we ran around getting the tents down and ensured nothing was littered around on the top. We packed up the bags and tents and started on our long trek down.

We were expecting a short and quick descent and started off, with all of us pitching in to sing ridiculously off-tune songs with made up lyrics on the spot! I'm sure our laughter and singing would have echoed across the valley scaring all the animals away haha. While not as tiring as the climb up, due to the treacherous surface and the steep angles of descent, we made slow progress. While we were lucky to have no accidents while climbing up, the way down saw quite a few slips and falls, resulting in sprained ankles and knees to a few people. People unused to long treks in shoes ended up getting blisters on their feet. The pace slowed down to a crawl and the gap between the people up front and the people bringing up the rear grew. The guide was alternating between leading the way and ensuring the tail enders didn't stray off the path when the lead group took a wrong turn and went away from the ford we had crossed earlier the previous day! Instead of crossing knee high, rather mildly flowing water body, we had to cross waist high waters gushing with force! It was quite a harrowing experience, made even worse by all the rocks strewn about everywhere. No point in knowing how to swim if you'll bang your head against a boulder and fall unconscious the second you trip and fall into the water, is there? Since the water was quite deep, I didn't want to wet my tracks which I was wearing. Since I anyway had a pair of boxers underneath,I took the pants off to cross the river. Surprise! The front of my shorts was soaked in blood! Of all possible places, I had been bitten by a leech. On my genitals. Talk about bad luck lol. A quick check ensured there was no leech hanging around anywhere unsavoury and reasonably confident no long-term damage would happen, I shouldered my bag and crossed over.


Special mention has to be made as to how badass our guide was at this point. Since blisters on my friend's feet were getting too severe to continue walking in shoes, he removed his slippers and gave it to my friend and continued walking barefoot, without a care in the world. Made all of us look quite silly in our anti-leech socks and trekking shoes and all sorts of high end equipment,still terrified of thorns and leeches lol.

We crossed the river and started coming across signs of civilization. Electricity poles in the distance,strewn plastic and paper waste around and the sounds of vehicles honking in the distance. We reached Gokhale's house again, freshened up and had a piping hot dinner of simple anna and saaru. Happy and content, we called for a jeep to take us back towards Dharmasthala so we could catch the bus back home, with enough memories and sights to day dream the next few weeks away at work!

Thanks for being patient through the long read. Hope you enjoyed.

Regards,
Shreyas Cashyap
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Old 8th December 2015, 21:11   #5
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Thread moved out from the Assembly Line (The "Assembly Line" Forum section). Thanks for sharing!

Nice short log. Weekend trekking is always fun!
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Old 8th December 2015, 21:39   #6
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Default re: A Trek up the enchanting Ettina Bhuja

Perfect trek log Shreyas, good narration !
Being a trekking enthusiast myself, I always feel happy to read the trek log particularly about Western Ghats. I had been to Ettina bhuja and Amedikal which is exactly opposite to Ettina Bhuja multiple times. You just brought my old memories back online. Thank you .

I agree with you about Channappa. He was with us on both the occasions and he is quite famous among trekkers who had taken his service.
Ohh by the way the place where you got down from the bus from Bangalore is Kokkada not Kukkada.

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Old 9th December 2015, 00:56   #7
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Post re: A Trek up the enchanting Ettina Bhuja

Nice little travelogue shreyascashyap.
I never trekked! After reading this, i feel like trying my hand in trekking, may be starting with a short trek somewhere. Walking up on an arduous path & resting under a tent with friends - feels good to read, should be a fun. You have narrated it well with helpful hints on things to carry & escaping leeches. Thanks for sharing.
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Old 9th December 2015, 01:03   #8
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Default re: A Trek up the enchanting Ettina Bhuja

Ah, Mr Chennappa!! What a lovely guy. Well written buddy. Happy travels!!
you brought back some wonderful memories. Amedikkel and Ettina Bhuja - 2 awesome places for a weekend trek.
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Old 9th December 2015, 08:09   #9
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Default re: A Trek up the enchanting Ettina Bhuja

Quote:
Originally Posted by Raaj* View Post
Nice little travelogue shreyascashyap.
I never trekked! After reading this, i feel like trying my hand in trekking, may be starting with a short trek somewhere. Walking up on an arduous path & resting under a tent with friends - feels good to read, should be a fun. You have narrated it well with helpful hints on things to carry & escaping leeches. Thanks for sharing.
Raaj, you really should start trekking! Trust me, it's going to be worth it.

Thanks ampere, dragon and krishna for your nice words! Let's see if we can meet up the next time we're trekking in the ghats
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Old 9th December 2015, 09:13   #10
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Originally Posted by shreyascashyap View Post
Thanks ampere, dragon and krishna for your nice words! Let's see if we can meet up the next time we're trekking in the ghats
We do have our trekking thread. Not very active though.

http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/shifti...thread-10.html (The Trekking Thread)
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Old 10th December 2015, 17:59   #11
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Default Re: A Trek up the enchanting Ettina Bhuja

Superb, short and sweet. Like you I regret the lack of your DSLR too, I missed the pictures as this looks like a beautiful trek and camping ground. Thanks for sharing. Manmohan.
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Old 14th December 2015, 11:51   #12
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Thanks manmohan. I have learnt my lesson now. Better to lose out on 3 packs of biscuits and carry a DSLR instead!
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Old 14th December 2015, 13:33   #13
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Default Re: A Trek up the enchanting Ettina Bhuja

Nice trek Shreyas. One question though, does leeches situation get any better as you go up. How can we tent and sleep in a leech infested area?

Back in 2009 my school chaddi buddies and I went for a trek in Kudremuk, Western Ghats, I literally ran for life after 2 kms of trek. I mean, I was literally psyched by sheer amount of leeches and the way they crawl creepily towards you got my nerves. If we stand at one place, all the leeches within in 2 mts radius crawl towards us in center. I was aware that there will be leeches, but was not prepared for so many of it. It gave me creeps. When we reached our vehicle, my friend threw away his shoes. But the guide was happily marching in his paragon chappals as if leeches does not exist.

Pic of my feet:
Name:  leechesn.jpg
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We spent a night in Bhagawathi Nature Camp(http://ecotrails.in/bhagwathi_nature_camp.html), even there our room had couple of big leeches. We spent that night laughing in terror and staring at the leeches.
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Old 14th December 2015, 16:37   #14
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The leeches thrive in damp conditions. River beds, forest floor and places like that. Places where it gets sunny and warm you'll find almost no leeches at all. In this trek, the grasslands were very dry and bore the brunt of a harsh sun - had absolutely 0 leeches but 2 feet into the forest after the grasslands was again a leech fest. Right up on top where we camped was again dry grass and sunny. No leeches there either.

Arun, the trick is to not stay stationary when you are in a leech infested zone. The longer you stay in one place, the more leeches come on to you. That tobacco-oil mixture helped a lot too. Any open space which gets good amount of warmth and sunlight should be good enough to camp in. Avoid damp and musty areas.
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