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Old 2nd October 2008, 18:48   #91
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Originally Posted by jaysmokesleaves View Post
While stopping to refuel in Shimla, this Danish couple drove up to refuel their Toyota FJ. Both well past their 50's, I am amazed by their grit, determination and resolve. The man said that they were on a 40000kms(forty thousand) road trip. Its just amazing. I didnt probe much furthur but did capture their website for reference. The website has loads of info, if you understand the language.
Very sorry to be a pedant and break the flow of this absolutely gorgeous travelogue - which beats anything I've seen or read so far - but the couple you're talking about must be Dutch, not Danish. The language is Dutch, not Danish, and the .nl suffix stands for Netherlands; Denmark is .dk .

Having got that off my chest, what a wonderful travelogue! I'm tempted to download the whole thread and print it out, pictures and all - especially the pictures!!! - in a booklet form.

When's your next trip?

Sorry, couldn't help that.
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Old 2nd October 2008, 18:49   #92
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Originally Posted by zenx View Post
That stretch between Losar and Gramphu brought back memories of the brave little Pulsar skidding from rock to rock with 2 on it plus 35kilos of luggage - was the Pagal Nullah full when you crossed it ? We actually did Kaza-keylong over 2 sloooow days, and camped at Chotta Darra overnight. How I long to be back in the saddle again....wonderful wonderful pics and log. Thanks a ton for the refresher
Thanks & Im glad you enjoyed it.
The Pagal nullah was flowing but not full.

My dad particularly noted that - they(HP govt) should ban that road and shut it down. He was so upset. This stretch allows very little room for mistakes, if at all.
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Old 2nd October 2008, 19:16   #93
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Originally Posted by jaysmokesleaves View Post
The following pics are of Kibber, supposedly the highest village in the world at 4126meters.

Attachment 55283
Beautiful Pic!!!

too bad that you lost some of your pics. Its a real nightmare. Also sorry to hear about the accident with the Bus.

Hard luck. but on the brighter side, what a holiday you had!!
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Old 2nd October 2008, 19:19   #94
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Great report supported with great shots. Fantastic reading.
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Old 2nd October 2008, 21:13   #95
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Jay, truly a memorable trip and one of the best stories written in this forum. Tremendous patience in shooting every aspect of the trip.

During my 2004 trip, the Malling-Sumdo section was totally washed away for 3 kms, so had to cut short my onward journey from Rampur to Tabo/Kaza via Sumdo and had to turn around and come back to Kaza via Jalori Jot, Manali, Rohtang and Kunzum la.

My Matiz did the job admirably in October 2004, we were chased by teh first snows of the season as we climbed up the Baralcha la on our way to Leh, where we had to plough through 3 feet snow in Chang la.

But let me share with you some photos from the drive into Kinnaur Valley and Spiti Valley.

Kalpa, Kinnaur Valley

Picasa Web Albums - kumar - Ladakh 2004

On road from Recong Peo to Spello, Kinnaur Valley

Picasa Web Albums - kumar - Ladakh 2004

On road from Recong Peo to Spello, Kinnaur Valley

Picasa Web Albums - kumar - Ladakh 2004

The magnificent omnipresent Sutlej River, on way from Recong Peo to Spello, Kinnaur Valley

Picasa Web Albums - kumar - Ladakh 2004

Picasa Web Albums - kumar - Ladakh 2004

The Matiz over the Shatrujeet Bridge at Wangtoo, Kinnaur Valley

Picasa Web Albums - kumar - Ladakh 2004

At Chhatru, between Gramphoo and Kunzum La, Lahaul Valley

Picasa Web Albums - kumar - Ladakh 2004


Picasa Web Albums - kumar - Ladakh 2004

Road leading up to Kunzum la, Lahaul Valley

Picasa Web Albums - kumar - Ladakh 2004

The 4500 m high Kunzum la

Picasa Web Albums - kumar - Ladakh 2004

Lake Losar, after descending Kunzum la, Spiti Valley

Picasa Web Albums - kumar - Ladakh 2004

Spiti River at Hansa, en route Kaza, Spiti Valley

Picasa Web Albums - kumar - Ladakh 2004

Picasa Web Albums - kumar - Ladakh 2004

Picasa Web Albums - kumar - Ladakh 2004

Ke Monastery, near Kaza

Picasa Web Albums - kumar - Ladakh 2004

Spiti Valley, near Kaza

Picasa Web Albums - kumar - Ladakh 2004

Chandra Tal

Picasa Web Albums - kumar - Ladakh 2004

Who wants 4x4s?

Picasa Web Albums - kumar - Ladakh 2004
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Old 2nd October 2008, 22:42   #96
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If the travelogue is this interesting, I can imagine how thrilling the travel must have been. Fantastic writing & photographs, jaysmokesleaves.
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Old 3rd October 2008, 10:30   #97
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At the risk of repeating myself, I'll say those four words once again -
Travelogue of the Yearcheers:

Quote:
Originally Posted by jaysmokesleaves View Post
The issue of the Stepney tyre was taken up with the dealer in Mumbai. They promptly washed their hands off it.
I am not sure if writing to TML will help. but its a lesson learnt for the future.
I think you should write to TML, have sent you a PM......that was one hefty repair bill btw, hope the truck is looking spick & span again!
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Old 3rd October 2008, 11:27   #98
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@Jay, I would say you are a lucky guy with "Malling Baba" so generous on you, enjoy the luck. The two "supposed" rivers are the mighty Satluj, i say mighty because its the only himalayan river to cut its way right across the himalayas and not having the need to circumvent, while the second one is the beautiful Spiti. The confluence is know as Khab. The border is a mere 2 kms from that spot right up the gorge over whciht he bridge has been bulit.
The Kazigs got you to the village of KA and it was empty because this is the season all nomads take there livestock to greener pastures up in the hills. You could have entered any house and made yourself a cup of tea or food, only payment being to chop and ferry into the kitchen the approximate amount of wood you would have used and any surplus non perishable food item.
The higher village is KI. And you rightly say that Malling is a different story all together. It sure is. You can read one of them here on the thread destiny, fate or coincidence.
Yes lately the Kunzam- Gramphoo sector has taken a lot of beating and has become bad. Sorry that you missed Chandratal, but there is always a next time.
Sad to see your bull getting the hit twice at Ambala but you could have pressed the issue with the driver though your magnanimity is laudable.
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Old 3rd October 2008, 12:49   #99
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Jay

That you could relate to so much during this marathon trip, capturing each moment so vividly through pictures, with a running commentary that sensitively captures the mood of every situation is without a doubt true testimony to a most wonderful and rich persona. Congrats on a fabulous job done in relating to what makes India so special. In doing so brilliantly that makes you special. Its indeed a pleasure to know you and thanks for sharing this rich experience with us all. I have no doubt this travelougue will inspire so many more as it has done me.
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Old 3rd October 2008, 13:50   #100
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Originally Posted by jaysmokesleaves View Post
I did miss that and a lot of other things. I am in the process of compiling a small list of places I missed this time round. This I intend to complete if and when I get an opportunity to go there again next year... .
Another little item to add to your list, Jay. I'd missed it in 1997 but caught up with it in 2001!
On the route from Sumdo to Tabo, there is a small diversion, (near a village called Gye?, I'm not sure), that takes you to this absolutely amazing mummified lama, preserved unbelievably well without any chemicals/bandages!! It's right adjacent to an ITBP camp.
There is no legend/plaque to tell you any details, but it sure took my breath away!

First pic shows the ITBP camp and that white room in the distance houses the mummy:

Name:  ITBP.JPG
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The mummified body of the old (?) lama:

Name:  Mummy.JPG
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Old 3rd October 2008, 14:15   #101
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Originally Posted by bonobashi View Post
Very sorry to be a pedant and break the flow of this absolutely gorgeous travelogue - which beats anything I've seen or read so far - but the couple you're talking about must be Dutch, not Danish. The language is Dutch, not Danish, and the .nl suffix stands for Netherlands; Denmark is .dk .
Thank you and I stand corrected.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rudra Sen View Post
Great report supported with great shots. Fantastic reading.
A pleasure you like it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by hvkumar View Post
Jay, truly a memorable trip and one of the best stories written in this forum. Tremendous patience in shooting every aspect of the trip.

During my 2004 trip, the Malling-Sumdo section was totally washed away for 3 kms, so had to cut short my onward journey from Rampur to Tabo/Kaza via Sumdo and had to turn around and come back to Kaza via Jalori Jot, Manali, Rohtang and Kunzum la.

My Matiz did the job admirably in October 2004, we were chased by teh first snows of the season as we climbed up the Baralcha la on our way to Leh, where we had to plough through 3 feet snow in Chang la.
Its amazing that that you covered that terrain in a Matiz. A true testimony of your resolve and a very well built car.

Quote:
Originally Posted by hrag View Post
If the travelogue is this interesting, I can imagine how thrilling the travel must have been. Fantastic writing & photographs, jaysmokesleaves.
The place is worthy on another visit. Especially Gramphoo to Kaza. Maybe next year i will make a extended trip before going to Ladakh.

Quote:
Originally Posted by suman View Post
At the risk of repeating myself, I'll say those four words once again -
Travelogue of the Yearcheers:


I think you should write to TML, have sent you a PM......that was one hefty repair bill btw, hope the truck is looking spick & span again!
Thanks for your rating and the PM. Will send an email shortly.

Quote:
Originally Posted by wanderernomad View Post
@Jay, I would say you are a lucky guy with "Malling Baba" so generous on you, enjoy the luck. The two "supposed" rivers are the mighty Satluj, i say mighty because its the only himalayan river to cut its way right across the himalayas and not having the need to circumvent, while the second one is the beautiful Spiti. The confluence is know as Khab. The border is a mere 2 kms from that spot right up the gorge over whciht he bridge has been bulit.
The Kazigs got you to the village of KA and it was empty because this is the season all nomads take there livestock to greener pastures up in the hills. You could have entered any house and made yourself a cup of tea or food, only payment being to chop and ferry into the kitchen the approximate amount of wood you would have used and any surplus non perishable food item.
The higher village is KI. And you rightly say that Malling is a different story all together. It sure is. You can read one of them here on the thread destiny, fate or coincidence.
Yes lately the Kunzam- Gramphoo sector has taken a lot of beating and has become bad. Sorry that you missed Chandratal, but there is always a next time.
Sad to see your bull getting the hit twice at Ambala but you could have pressed the issue with the driver though your magnanimity is laudable.
Thanks for the good deal of information you have provided above. I had no knowledge of it. Now, if you can tell me the story of Malling Baba.!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by DKG View Post
Jay

That you could relate to so much during this marathon trip, capturing each moment so vividly through pictures, with a running commentary that sensitively captures the mood of every situation is without a doubt true testimony to a most wonderful and rich persona. Congrats on a fabulous job done in relating to what makes India so special. In doing so brilliantly that makes you special. Its indeed a pleasure to know you and thanks for sharing this rich experience with us all. I have no doubt this travelougue will inspire so many more as it has done me.
Bharat Darshan(as some have called it) is truly humbling in a way. This forum apart from being a source of information, has also been a source of inspiration for me. I am happy that I was able to share through this forum what I saw and felt and even happier that I have already inspired one if not many. The wheel has turned full cycle - I have successfully given back what I got - and it continues to turn, and it has been a pleasure to share.
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Old 3rd October 2008, 14:26   #102
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Originally Posted by anupmathur View Post
Another little item to add to your list, Jay. I'd missed it in 1997 but caught up with it in 2001!
On the route from Sumdo to Tabo, there is a small diversion, (near a village called Gye?, I'm not sure), that takes you to this absolutely amazing mummified lama, preserved unbelievably well without any chemicals/bandages!! It's right adjacent to an ITBP camp.
There is no legend/plaque to tell you any details, but it sure took my breath away!
Now that was certainly something not worth missing. I also missed another side road from Tabo you had mentioned. I think it was Mudh.
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Old 3rd October 2008, 14:35   #103
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Originally Posted by jaysmokesleaves View Post
Now that was certainly something not worth missing. I also missed another side road from Tabo you had mentioned. I think it was Mudh.
Dhankar and Pin Valley.
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Old 3rd October 2008, 14:42   #104
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What an exhilarating and amazing travelogue!. Thanks Jay.
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Old 3rd October 2008, 14:58   #105
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Dhankar and Pin Valley.
Nahi sir, i recollect it was just one word.
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