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Old 3rd August 2009, 14:31   #136
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Default Day12: Return Journey. Darchen To Prayang

Morning at about 10.30 am 12 of us started our return journey from Darchen. Out of a group of 24 pax, 7 pax had left for Lhasa early morning. One can do this by by arranging with the travel agent before hand for an extra cost. And the remaining 5 pax were on the last day of the parikrama.

The plan was to wait for the 5 pax at Hor Chu camp at Mansarovar, This was we would also complete our Mansarovar parikrama too. Have lunch there and move on to Prayang from there. Two jeeps and a truck was sent for them at the finishing point.

Once they reached Mansarovar, they were given a heroes welcome. And why not, they had done something that was really praise worthy.

SOME PICS OF DAY 2 OF PARIKRAMA, COURTESY: AMIT DHONE

A GLACIER JUST AFTER DROLMA LA
Traversing The Tibet Plateau To Mount Kailash-dsc01548a.jpg

GAURI KUND
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After listening to their stories and lunch at about 1400hrs we left for prayang.

Photos of the return journey till Prayang

NAME OF THE HOTEL IN DARCHEN
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VIEW OF KAILASH (behind clouds) THROUGH THE OVRM
Traversing The Tibet Plateau To Mount Kailash-dsc01549.jpg

FINISHING MANSAROVAR PARIKRAMA
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MOM SOAKING IN THE BEAUTY
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YATRIS TAKING THE FINAL DIP
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MAGICAL MANSAROVAR
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WALKING STICK WAS VERY HELPFULL
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AND OUR CONVOY WAS ON ITS WAY
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Old 3rd August 2009, 14:42   #137
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@Deky: You did the right thing in droping back and taking care of your mom. There will be a next time.
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Old 3rd August 2009, 14:48   #138
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Deky: I truly admire your mothers spirit. What a stunning travelogue.
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Old 3rd August 2009, 15:39   #139
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Originally Posted by sudev View Post
@Deky: You did the right thing in droping back and taking care of your mom. There will be a next time.
Yeah, you are right Sudev, no ways I would have continued. If there is a next time I will do the Govt. organised trip

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Deky: I truly admire your mothers spirit. What a stunning travelogue.
Thank you sir!!
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Old 3rd August 2009, 16:39   #140
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Default Day 13 & 14: Prayang To Saga And To Zhang Mu

Day 13 and 14 were spent mostly on traveling back. One significant development that happened as we descended was that yatris were getting more and more energetic due to oxygen levels increasing and I was also getting my normal appetite back.

Return journey pics.

TAKING TIPS ON PHOTOGRAPHY FROM SHAMIM, A CO-YATRI AND A KEEN PHOTOGRAPHER. PIC COURTESY: AMIT DHONE
Traversing The Tibet Plateau To Mount Kailash-dsc01567a.jpg

AS WE DESCENDED WE GOT MORE HUNGRY, TRYING LOCAL CUP NOODLES AT A TEA HOUSE PIC COURTESY: AMIT DHONE
Traversing The Tibet Plateau To Mount Kailash-dsc01567b.jpg

CROSSING GREEN VALLEYS
Traversing The Tibet Plateau To Mount Kailash-dsc01573.jpg

NEVER ENDING ROADS ON THE PLATEAU
Traversing The Tibet Plateau To Mount Kailash-dsc01575.jpg

A HIGH PASS AHEAD
Traversing The Tibet Plateau To Mount Kailash-dsc01577.jpg

POSING WITH A SHERPA
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STILL WATERS
Traversing The Tibet Plateau To Mount Kailash-dsc01587.jpg

MORE SNOW CAPPED PEAKS
Traversing The Tibet Plateau To Mount Kailash-dsc01590.jpg
Traversing The Tibet Plateau To Mount Kailash-dsc01592.jpg

PEIKU TSO LAKE
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Traversing The Tibet Plateau To Mount Kailash-dsc01594.jpg

A FEARLESS SPARROW
Traversing The Tibet Plateau To Mount Kailash-dsc01599.jpg

A VALLEY WE CAME THROUGH
Traversing The Tibet Plateau To Mount Kailash-dsc01601.jpg

OUR RIDES FOR THE LAST 2 WEEKS
Traversing The Tibet Plateau To Mount Kailash-dsc01602.jpg

OUR JEEP MEMBERS. Mr. Brij Mohan, on the left, was the eldest of the group at 74 and Amit Dhone on right was youngest at 21
Traversing The Tibet Plateau To Mount Kailash-dsc01603.jpg

WE STOPPED AT THIS BEAUTIFULL PLACE FOR LUNCH
Traversing The Tibet Plateau To Mount Kailash-dsc01604.jpg

GLACIERS FLOWING DOWN THE MOUNTAIN
Traversing The Tibet Plateau To Mount Kailash-dsc01608.jpg

A NOMAD'S MODE OF TRANSPORT
Traversing The Tibet Plateau To Mount Kailash-dsc01610.jpg

HIS CATTLE
Traversing The Tibet Plateau To Mount Kailash-dsc01611.jpg

HIS SHEEP, SOLAR PANELS AND 2 CATS
Traversing The Tibet Plateau To Mount Kailash-dsc01614.jpg

ANOTHER RIVER CROSSING
Traversing The Tibet Plateau To Mount Kailash-dsc01615.jpg

STRAIGHT ROAD TO THE MOUNTAINS
Traversing The Tibet Plateau To Mount Kailash-dsc01617.jpg

MORE HILLS AHEAD
Traversing The Tibet Plateau To Mount Kailash-dsc01621.jpg

FINALLY GOOD ROAD JUST BEFORE NAYALAM
Traversing The Tibet Plateau To Mount Kailash-dsc01625.jpg

BACK TO OFF ROADING FOR SOME MORE TIME
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THEN BACK ON SMOOTH TAR
Traversing The Tibet Plateau To Mount Kailash-dsc01628.jpg

.....Day 13 & 14 pics continued in next post
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Old 3rd August 2009, 17:27   #141
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...day 13 & 14 continued from previous post

on the 14th day when we started from saga, a decision was taken that we wont be stopping at Nayalam for the night but go To Zhang Mu staright away. This would help us to be the first in line for the immigration at the border.

Once we crossed Nayalam and started to descend, the topography suddenly changed and the surroundings hills got greener.

Also on our way up,due to the traffic jam, I couldnt take any photos, so this was a good opportunity to do so.

pictures of the journey from Nayalam to Zhang Mu:-

AS WE APPROACHED NAYALAM WE COULD SEE SOME FARMLANDS
Traversing The Tibet Plateau To Mount Kailash-dsc01634.jpg

CROSSING NAYALAM
Traversing The Tibet Plateau To Mount Kailash-dsc01635.jpg

A FLOCK OF BIRDS IN FLIGHT
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STARTED A RAPID DESCEND
Traversing The Tibet Plateau To Mount Kailash-dsc01640.jpg

SMOOTH ROADS, GREENERY AND LOTS OF WATER FALLS
Traversing The Tibet Plateau To Mount Kailash-dsc01642.jpg

LIGHT AT THE END OF THE TUNNEL
Traversing The Tibet Plateau To Mount Kailash-dsc01644.jpg

A RIVER FLOWING ALONG THE ROAD
Traversing The Tibet Plateau To Mount Kailash-dsc01646.jpg

ITS A SONY!!
Traversing The Tibet Plateau To Mount Kailash-dsc01648.jpg

HEAVENS DESCENDING ON US
Traversing The Tibet Plateau To Mount Kailash-dsc01651.jpg

ZIG ZAG ROADS
Traversing The Tibet Plateau To Mount Kailash-dsc01652.jpg

FALLING ROCKS CAN BE DANGEROUS
Traversing The Tibet Plateau To Mount Kailash-dsc01656.jpg

EVERY 100 MTRS THERE WAS A WATERFALL
Traversing The Tibet Plateau To Mount Kailash-dsc01658.jpg
Traversing The Tibet Plateau To Mount Kailash-dsc01672.jpg

MOVING WITH THE CLOUDS
Traversing The Tibet Plateau To Mount Kailash-dsc01666.jpg

FINALLY BENEATH THE CLOUDS
Traversing The Tibet Plateau To Mount Kailash-dsc01674.jpg

FREE CAR WASH EN-ROUTE
Traversing The Tibet Plateau To Mount Kailash-dsc01678.jpg

OUR TURN NEXT
Traversing The Tibet Plateau To Mount Kailash-dsc01680.jpg

ROAD UNDER CONSTRUCTION- Notice the iron and the thickness of the grid. 6 inches of tar will be put on top
Traversing The Tibet Plateau To Mount Kailash-dsc01685.jpg

MOTHER OF ALL WATERFALLS
Traversing The Tibet Plateau To Mount Kailash-dsc01692.jpg

A ROOF CONSTRUCTED ON THE ROAD TO BREAK THE WATER FALL
Traversing The Tibet Plateau To Mount Kailash-dsc01691.jpg

UNDER THE ROOF
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YATRIS ENJOYING THE VIEW
Traversing The Tibet Plateau To Mount Kailash-dsc01707.jpg

We had plans to stop at this waterfall to take some photos anyways. But there was some blasting going on ahead so the Army had closed the road ahead. We never knew we would be starnded here for 5 hours. Luckily we all had some nick-knacks to eat in our bags, as by the time we reached the hotel in Zhang mu it was past 23.00 hrs.

ROAD CLOSED AHEAD DUE TO BLASTING
Traversing The Tibet Plateau To Mount Kailash-dsc01711.jpg

LOW ALTITUDE SICKNESS: GOING CRAZY DUE TO SUDDEN EXCESS OF OXYGEN
Traversing The Tibet Plateau To Mount Kailash-dsc01713.jpg

MORE WATER FALLS
Traversing The Tibet Plateau To Mount Kailash-dsc01721.jpg

DRIVERS PASSING TIME
Traversing The Tibet Plateau To Mount Kailash-dsc01728.jpg

AMIT AND PATHER, OUR DRIVER
Traversing The Tibet Plateau To Mount Kailash-dsc01728a.jpg

FINALLY WE MOVED AT 2200HRS
Traversing The Tibet Plateau To Mount Kailash-dsc01732.jpg

FIRST THE UPCOMING TRAFFIC WAS ALLOWED
Traversing The Tibet Plateau To Mount Kailash-dsc01734.jpg

As soon as we settled in our rooms, Amit and I went out for dinner, we decided to have some local Chinese cuisine and were not disspointed.

Tomorrow will be our last day in Tibet!!!
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Old 3rd August 2009, 17:54   #142
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deky, this has been one of the best reads. Thank you so much for sharing.
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Old 3rd August 2009, 18:03   #143
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Default Day15: Zhang Mu To Kathmandu

Doing the immigration was a pain. Partly because of the number of yatris waiting to cross over and partly beacuse of the Xray machines being out of order (guess they were made in China) Each and every bag was checked manually and that was taking time.

We reached the immigration at around 8.00am since we wanted to be the first ones across, but another group of 155 was smarter than us and were there since 6.00am. Finally the immigration opened at 10.00am and by the time we were cleared and crossed into Nepal it was 1430hrs China time or 1200hrs IST (1215 nepal time).

WAITING FOR THE IMMIGRATION TO OPEN
Traversing The Tibet Plateau To Mount Kailash-dsc01734a.jpg

VIEW OF THE FRIENDSHIP BRIDGE
Traversing The Tibet Plateau To Mount Kailash-dsc01734b.jpg

Once we had our lunch and the Nepali border porters delivered our bags and were stacked on the bus, we were ready for the last leg of our journey to Kayhmandu.

The bus journey to Kathmandu took us around 4 hrs with one tea stop. The bus journey was very silent. Some yatris were just contemplating on the bus about the amazing 14 days they had in Tibet, some were enjoying the views outside, but most were sleeping peacefully, tired but extremely satisfied.

TIRED YATRIS
Traversing The Tibet Plateau To Mount Kailash-dsc01741.jpg

OUR HOTEL IN KATHMANDU
Traversing The Tibet Plateau To Mount Kailash-dsc01742.jpg

BEAUTIFULL GARDENS
Traversing The Tibet Plateau To Mount Kailash-dsc01743.jpg

THE POOL
Traversing The Tibet Plateau To Mount Kailash-dsc01749.jpg


This has to be the best journey I have ever undertaken. Though it did not have all the luxuries we are used to during holidays, though we didnt have clean toilets to use or comfortable beds to sleep in, though we covered most of the 2000kms on bad roads or no roads, though mom hurt her self during the trip, though after walking for 10 mnts in such heights we felt tired and had to sit down for 5 mnts.

But after you see such beautifull sights, after you have a dip in the peacefull Mansarovar and you feel Gods aura surrounding you and after you see Majestic Mt Kailash right in front of you, such trivial things begin to be a non-issue. You feel re-juvenated and re born.

For me and my mom it has been indeed an unforgetfull trip of a life time.
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Old 3rd August 2009, 18:23   #144
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excellent review and given very good insight into the details with photographs. You do not believe it, I have read a lot of reviews on this trip but you travelogue was awesome. I really enjoyed. 5 start rating for the travelogue.
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Old 3rd August 2009, 18:32   #145
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Thanks Deky. Wish your mother a speedy recovery and wish you many more happy journeys.

Can you tell us when is it ideal time (weather-wise) to make this trip?

Also can you post the contact details of the travel agency you used.

What was your total expenditure (apart from the fees you had indicated earlier.)?
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Old 3rd August 2009, 18:33   #146
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What a great travelogue!! Was following it all through, and the narration, tips on do's and don'ts and preparation, and the many brilliant photos - thanks a lot Deky.
Wishing your mom a speedy recovery.
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Old 3rd August 2009, 18:37   #147
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Default The Expenses

I will include here the major expenses incurred during the trip. Some other expenses as shopping are not included as it may vary from individual to individual. I have also not included the expenses incurred due to yatra preperation like on medicines, clothes etc etc

We got an exchange rate of 1Chinese Yuan= 7.57 INR at Kathmandu. Which I admit was very poor

All expenses are indicated in INR for 1 person. Also the pony/porter charges for us were a bit on the higher side due to huge number of yatris that time and hence the huge demand for ponies.

1. Tour operator charges for the trip ex-kathmandu including food, stay in KTM, transportation, tents, meals during trip, sherpas, yaks for parikrama, oxygen etc etc (Can be negotiated) = 75,000/-
2. one Pony charges for parikrama = 8,250/-
3. one porter charge for parikrama = 3,375/-
4. gratiuties and tips for drivers, sherpas, guide = 1,500/-
5. communication-phone calls/ internet = 1,125/-
6. Misc expenses = 1,500/-
7. air tickets Kathmandu to & fro = 11,000/-

Total cost = 1,01,750/- per person
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Old 3rd August 2009, 18:46   #148
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Quote:
Originally Posted by akbaree View Post
deky, this has been one of the best reads. Thank you so much for sharing.
Quote:
Originally Posted by contactme27 View Post
excellent review and given very good insight into the details with photographs. You do not believe it, I have read a lot of reviews on this trip but you travelogue was awesome. I really enjoyed. 5 start rating for the travelogue.
Thank you and its been a pleasure writing, reliving and sharing it with you people!!

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Originally Posted by druva View Post
Thanks Deky. Wish your mother a speedy recovery and wish you many more happy journeys.

Can you tell us when is it ideal time (weather-wise) to make this trip?

Also can you post the contact details of the travel agency you used.

What was your total expenditure (apart from the fees you had indicated earlier.)?
already posted the total expenditure above.

The route opens end of May till September, though July and August are the best months to do it. It is best if auspicious days like Guru Poornima and other full moon nights be avoided due to over crowding of yatris during such days. The already limited fascilities get even more stretched and the prices of pony and porters go sky high.

I will post a list of Tour operators I think are good in a later post.

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Originally Posted by lancer_rit View Post
What a great travelogue!! Was following it all through, and the narration, tips on do's and don'ts and preparation, and the many brilliant photos - thanks a lot Deky.
Wishing your mom a speedy recovery.
Thank you!!
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Old 3rd August 2009, 19:27   #149
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This has to be the best travelogue I have read on TBHP. The details you provided made me feel part of the journey. I must congratulate you on finishing this great journey.

Does the Travel Agent arrange for the Chinese Visa or one has to get it stamped in India? What about the cost?
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Old 3rd August 2009, 20:59   #150
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It has been unforgettable for us too, Deky. To be honest, there are not that many travelogues where almost every word and almost every photo holds my attention; this one certainly did.

There have been a couple of articles in The New Indian Express within the past six weeks or so on making this trip; some of the stuff I read was not very complimentary towards the private agents and organisers, and was especially critical of the lack of medical facilities. You might be interested to search their site and check out what they have to say. I have no idea if it was balanced, or if they had unfair expectations. Whilst the facilities you had seem to have been basic, perhaps that is only reasonable expectation of what is still s trip into the wild mountains. You seem to have been pretty impressed with the attention that you received; you certainly give a good impression of it.

Congratulations on your safe return, and all best wishes for your mum's bones and bruises to heal soon.

And just a final... Wow!
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