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Old 2nd August 2009, 14:16   #121
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Originally Posted by deky View Post
At a height of 16,100 feet, we had a major problem on our hands, so this was the end of the parikrama.
I understand. What was it? High altitude mountain sickness?
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Old 2nd August 2009, 16:12   #122
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Being so close and yet so far, how unfortunate, I feel real sad. I hope everything is fine!
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Old 2nd August 2009, 17:28   #123
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@deky: Perchance you are fan of Alfred Hitchcock? Left us dangling there like the masters novels would leave us thinking WHODUNIT??

Waiting breathlessly - no AMS here - for the next post.
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Old 2nd August 2009, 17:33   #124
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Originally Posted by deky View Post
At a height of 16,100 feet, we had a major problem on our hands, so this was the end of the parikrama.
This is scary. How old is your mom? Did she have any physical exams before she set ou on this journey?
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Old 2nd August 2009, 21:18   #125
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Default Day11: Derapuk To Darchen Back

Mom was still in pain the next morning. Rather the cold and wet weather had increased the pains over night.

No, it was not AMS causing the discomfort. If it would have been AMS I would have there and then made arrangements for Mom to be transported down back to Darchen that evening/night. Actually, It was something that we had not thought would happen even in the wildest of scenarios would happen. But something very basic and something that could happen to anyone.

Later Mom had told me how her horse slipped and lost its footing, off a wet boulder, the horse panicked and started to run. My mom fell of the horse and was dragged along with the horse for a while. The pain was excruciating as she had fallen and been dragged along on rocks. She was suspecting some broken ribs and broken right ankle.

NOTE:- High ankle shoes are a must for such terrains, buy them in advance and get used to them.

Fortunately, this happened just 500 meters before the camp and the sherpas were able to carry her to Derapuk.

As I said we had not imagined that such a thing would happen, I didnt have any medicines, equipment for broken bones except brufen and tiger balm. There also were no medical facilities around where we could get a check up done. All the yatris, the sherpas and Tenzing, the guide managed somehow to muster crape bandage, magic sprays for pain, a few other ointments and some hot water in a pepsi bottle for warm fermentation.. A splint for the ankle was also discussed but for some reason the guide decided against it. Guides are also trained paramedics, hence its best to listen to them in such situations.

It was pretty late in the evening and had also started to snow by now. Mom had been given first aid and I guess the sprays & brufen's had given her some relief so she slept. I knew even if it wasn't a fracture we still could not have continued as out of the parikrama distance of 18kms on the 2nd day 6 kms had to be done on foot and that would be totally foolish to do with an injured foot. Hence I decided we will return the next morning.

In the morning the her ankle had turned blue and had swollen to double the size. Somehow she managed to wear her shoes. The pain was still there but, nothing else could have been done then. Like a tough lady she was braving all the pain and was ready to sit back on the horse for our return journey. Netaji was kind enough to swap horses with her and now my mom had a new horse.

The weather had not changed in the morning, it was still cloudy. Seeing this and maybe dis-heartened by what had happened to Mom, some more in our group decided to dis-continue the journey and come back. There were only 5 who decided to go ahead. It was decided that with them only 2 sherpas would go and tenzing, the guide. Rest of the support staff would also return

KAILASH FROM DERAPUK, IT WAS STILL CLOUDY AND GLOOMY IN THE MORNING
Traversing The Tibet Plateau To Mount Kailash-dsc01483.jpg

STONE HOUSES USED AS GUEST ROOMS
Traversing The Tibet Plateau To Mount Kailash-dsc01484.jpg

IN THE ROOM, NOTICE THE THATCHED ROOF, DID NOT LEAK THOUGH
Traversing The Tibet Plateau To Mount Kailash-dsc01486.jpg

A BABY YAK
Traversing The Tibet Plateau To Mount Kailash-dsc01492.jpg

In an another group of 22, everyone decided not to go ahead with the parikrama and to return back to Darchen base camp.

YATRIS GETTING READY
Traversing The Tibet Plateau To Mount Kailash-dsc01485.jpg

By 8.30 am the five who had decided to continue their parikrama left and after a while we also started our descend back to Darchen. Slowly and steadily we made our journey back. It was cloudy but atleast it was not raining.

Pictures of our return journey.

RIVER LHAM CHU
Traversing The Tibet Plateau To Mount Kailash-dsc01499.jpg

NOW THAT BATTERY WAS NOT A PROBLEM, TRYING SLOW SHUTTER SPEED
Traversing The Tibet Plateau To Mount Kailash-dsc01496.jpg

MORE OF KAILASH THROUGH THE CLOUDS
Traversing The Tibet Plateau To Mount Kailash-dsc01500.jpg
Traversing The Tibet Plateau To Mount Kailash-dsc01503.jpg

TRYING TO GET THE PERFECT SHOT
Traversing The Tibet Plateau To Mount Kailash-dsc01507.jpg
Traversing The Tibet Plateau To Mount Kailash-dsc01510.jpg
Traversing The Tibet Plateau To Mount Kailash-dsc01512.jpg

TIBETAN PRAYER POINT
Traversing The Tibet Plateau To Mount Kailash-dsc01509.jpg

MY PORTER OFFERING HIS PRAYERS
Traversing The Tibet Plateau To Mount Kailash-dsc01511.jpg

YATRIS TAKING A BREAK
Traversing The Tibet Plateau To Mount Kailash-dsc01513.jpg

MY TOUGH MOM, THOUGH IN PAIN STILL MANAGED A SMILE FOR THE CAMERA
Traversing The Tibet Plateau To Mount Kailash-dsc01515.jpg

GUESS THE ANIMAL, A MARMOT MAYBE??
Traversing The Tibet Plateau To Mount Kailash-dsc01516.jpg
Traversing The Tibet Plateau To Mount Kailash-dsc01517.jpg

SAFFRON COLOURED FUNGUS
Traversing The Tibet Plateau To Mount Kailash-dsc01524.jpg

ROUTE THROUGH THE VALLEY
Traversing The Tibet Plateau To Mount Kailash-dsc01525.jpg

WITH THE GROUPS RETURNING, YAKS WITH EQUIPMENT ALSO COMING BACK
Traversing The Tibet Plateau To Mount Kailash-dsc01526.jpg

FINISHING POINT AT SIGHT
Traversing The Tibet Plateau To Mount Kailash-dsc01528.jpg

WE WALKED AND THIS LOCAL DUDE TOOK HIS BIKE ON THE RIVER BED, NOT TILL FAR THOUGH
Traversing The Tibet Plateau To Mount Kailash-dsc01514.jpg

HAPPY TO BE ALMOST THERE
Traversing The Tibet Plateau To Mount Kailash-dsc01529.jpg

BACK AT YAM DWAAR, KAILASH WAS VISIBLE BETTER FROM HERE TODAY
Traversing The Tibet Plateau To Mount Kailash-dsc01534.jpg

CARVED STONES
Traversing The Tibet Plateau To Mount Kailash-dsc01536.jpg

After paying our respects again at Yam Dwaar, at 14.30 hrs we were back in Darchen. There were no Xray fascility available in Darchen too. The Indian Doctor who looked her up in Saga also looked her up in Darchen. He mentioned that since she can move her ankle a bit, though with lot of pain there are more chances that the ankle joint is safe. He suggested not to put weight on the leg and to use a walking stick for the rest of the journey and to continue warm fermentation. He wasnt sure about the ribs.

Evening was spent again taking sunset photos and just litering around the place. Mom was on bed rest!!

SUNSET PICS OF MOUNTAINS
Traversing The Tibet Plateau To Mount Kailash-dsc01539.jpg

GURLA MANDHATA, RAKSHAS TAL AND PARKHA PLAINS
Traversing The Tibet Plateau To Mount Kailash-dsc01540.jpg

CLOUDS SPLITTING THE PEAK AT THE SNOW LINE
Traversing The Tibet Plateau To Mount Kailash-dsc01546.jpg

Before sleeping I personally thanked all the Sherpas and the co yatris who had helped when we needed them the most. My respect for sherpas grew even more from that day onwards.
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Old 2nd August 2009, 21:22   #126
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Originally Posted by navin View Post
This is scary. How old is your mom? Did she have any physical exams before she set ou on this journey?
Mom is 64, we had a thorough medical check up done before hand for the journey. Though the medical certificate was never needed, but I am glad we got it done anyways as Mom is asthmatic and has a slightly high BP
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Old 2nd August 2009, 22:59   #127
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Such an accident could happen to anyone, of any age, and of any standard of fitness.

Perhaps the only thing that might have prevented it would be experience in horse riding. You put so much preparation in, you could hardly be expected to practice horsemanship for a couple of years!

What a fantastic journey this has been, and continues to be...

(Oh, and those last photos are just wonderful!)
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Old 2nd August 2009, 23:06   #128
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deky, so sorry to hear about your mom's accident, it must have been real bad and lot of pain for her firstly to fall off on rocks on that cold weather and still she was smiling for your pictures shows her courage.Also to be that near and to return also isnt a pleasant feel to have but also to say nothings more then our parents.Hatts off to you and your mom buddy.You rock.!
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Old 2nd August 2009, 23:16   #129
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Deky,

Thanks for sharing an AWESOME load of pictures and an equally engrossing story. Just completed reading up on the story, took more than 50 mts, even left 'Rakhi Ka Swayamwar" on the channel, your thread is more exciting!!!! Tree cheers for giving so much details and so many pictures.

Sorry to hear that you had to abort the last leg; braving that distance with you MOM is one heck of a feat!!!

14/10/07, the last day the temple was open at Kedar, I treked up during a snowfall, everything was practically closed up, my youngest son, had AMS midway and had to be rushed to base, on the way back my Dhol Carriers (4 of them) slipped and 5 of us rolled down the setps, thanks to brufen+tremadol+big time luck, I escaped with severe pains. I understand something of what your mother underwent; very brave to have attempted it and to have done it. Of course, Kailas is the mother of all trips and way above the Kedar trek.

Yours is one of the most engrossing and detailed travalogues I have ever read in recent times.

---

Last edited by ramkya1 : 2nd August 2009 at 23:18.
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Old 3rd August 2009, 10:11   #130
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deky, Thanks for the wonderful travelogue. one of the best on T-BHP I have read. You took us through the yatra with your beautiful photos and writing. Sorry for the almost tragic accident but good to see your mom really braved it all. Those pics of Mt. Kailash are really awesome! This thread could be FAQ for many yatris in future.

regards,
Shaz
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Old 3rd August 2009, 10:27   #131
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deky, your mom is a really brave lady. I am sure she will complete the parikrama another time!

But I have a feeling that the story and pictures are not going to end here.
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Old 3rd August 2009, 11:04   #132
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thad E Ginathom View Post
Such an accident could happen to anyone, of any age, and of any standard of fitness.
Absolutely. I fell of a horse once (tall 16 hand Morgan) fortunately I was 22, fell in soft mud (IOWA cornfield), and the horse did not bolt. Still it hurt. Your mom must have gone though mouch worse.

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deky, your mom is a really brave lady.
Superb photos. You really ought to PS them a bit (Rudra is the THE MAN to ask for help and advice on this) and put them up on a blog or something.

Hope your mom has recovered.
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Old 3rd August 2009, 12:54   #133
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thad E Ginathom View Post
Such an accident could happen to anyone, of any age, and of any standard of fitness.

Perhaps the only thing that might have prevented it would be experience in horse riding. You put so much preparation in, you could hardly be expected to practice horsemanship for a couple of years!

What a fantastic journey this has been, and continues to be...

(Oh, and those last photos are just wonderful!)
Actually It was a pony, my mistake. And you would agree riding a pony is more difficult than a horse.

Quote:
Originally Posted by vijaythacker View Post
deky, so sorry to hear about your mom's accident, it must have been real bad and lot of pain for her firstly to fall off on rocks on that cold weather and still she was smiling for your pictures shows her courage.Also to be that near and to return also isnt a pleasant feel to have but also to say nothings more then our parents.Hatts off to you and your mom buddy.You rock.!
It would have been nice to have finished the parikrama, but definitely no regrets on that issue. That time it was more important to be next to Mom than to do the parikrama

Quote:
Originally Posted by ramkya1 View Post
Deky,

14/10/07, the last day the temple was open at Kedar, I treked up during a snowfall, everything was practically closed up, my youngest son, had AMS midway and had to be rushed to base, on the way back my Dhol Carriers (4 of them) slipped and 5 of us rolled down the setps, thanks to brufen+tremadol+big time luck, I escaped with severe pains. I understand something of what your mother underwent; very brave to have attempted it and to have done it. Of course, Kailas is the mother of all trips and way above the Kedar trek.

Yours is one of the most engrossing and detailed travalogues I have ever read in recent times.

---
I agree that falling off on rocks isnt a great experience for any age group and at any place.

Quote:
Originally Posted by shazikon View Post
deky, Thanks for the wonderful travelogue. one of the best on T-BHP I have read. You took us through the yatra with your beautiful photos and writing. Sorry for the almost tragic accident but good to see your mom really braved it all. Those pics of Mt. Kailash are really awesome! This thread could be FAQ for many yatris in future.

regards,
Shaz
Would be really happy if this is used as a guide for Kailash Yatra preperations in the future.

Quote:
Originally Posted by watashi75 View Post
deky, your mom is a really brave lady. I am sure she will complete the parikrama another time!

But I have a feeling that the story and pictures are not going to end here.
lol..you are right, still have the return journey. But mostly photos.

Quote:
Originally Posted by navin View Post

Superb photos. You really ought to PS them a bit (Rudra is the THE MAN to ask for help and advice on this) and put them up on a blog or something.

Hope your mom has recovered.
Thank you Navin, My next project is to learn Photo Shop. Lets see when I get time for that. Any inputs from Rudra Sir will be greatly appreciated.

We finally managed to get an XRay done once we reached Jaipur. Mom was diagnosed with a broken bone. Fortunately it was not at the ankle joint. A part of the bone had chipped off, hence the swelling.

Mom is still recovering and an Xray will be done in a weeks time to see the progress. Good thing is that she is mobile and in high spirits as usual
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Old 3rd August 2009, 13:31   #134
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The whole travelogue is a Fantastic treat Deky.
I truely feel sorry for you and your brave mom that you couldnt complete the parikrama. But I believe the real fun in a tour like this is the "journey" rather than the "destination" (here the parikrama). You went to see the Manasarovar and Mt. Kailash and that you did. rest i still beileve that there is a supreme power which decides what you can and cannot do.
Thanks a lot to you for sharing such a wonderful journey with the community!
Cheers!
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Old 3rd August 2009, 13:49   #135
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This trip log will be incomplete without a Thank you note for the sherpas.

The sherpas constitute a very important part of this trip. Without their help and support this trip to Kailash is not possible at all.

At such heights where carrying yourself gets difficult the sherpas do everything from making food to carrying your luggage or by just helping you around for small little things and that too they do with a smile. They get up before you do and sleep after you have slept.

Following are a few things that a sherpa will do during the trip:-

1. Load and unload the kitchen truck at various stops.
2. Set up the kitchen tent and cook meals and wash the dishes. We had 2 gentlemen who required no onion and no garlic food. Sherpas made special food for them too.
3. carry your duffle bags from the truck to your rooms and back.
4. set up sleeping tents and toilet tents for you wherever required.
5. bring you cold water and hot water whenever you request them.
6. serve you hot tea in the morning.
7. to be a qualified sherpa you need to know first aid so they also provide help in case of sickenss
8. Fill up Mansarovar water in big jars to be distributed later to the yatris.
9. carry oxygen pillows and other medical supplies when you doing the parikrama.

Working so hard at such high altitude is not a joke. Treating sherpas nicely is very important too. Its better to request the sherpas for something you want than to demand for it. Make friends with the Sherpas, try to help them whenever you can. I made sure that I helped them in pitching our tents. That way I learnt something new too.
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