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Old 25th July 2009, 16:56   #1
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Default Hyderabad - Heritage Sites - A Lazy (Nizami) Travelogue

Hyderabad is known for its rich history, culture and architecture representing its unique character as a meeting point for North and South India, and also its multicultural nature, geographically, culturally and intellectually. Also known as The City of Nizams and The City of Pearls.

More Information about the city at Hyderabad, India

This thread will serve as a guide for visiting the lesser known places in the city.


Starting off with Michel Joachim Marie Raymond's Tomb:

20-year-old Michel Raymond left France in 1775 for the Indian shores to become a merchant like his father, but Fate had other plans for him. He joined the French forces in Pondicherry in fighting the British. Their on-and-off skirmishes and Raymond's role in the French victories brought him into the notice of the Nizam of Hyderabad. He joined the Nizam's forces in 1786; a step that was to establish and cement his bonds with Hyderabad and its people, and become a part of its lore.

He rose in the ranks rapidly and became a trusted aide of the Nizam, to the extent that a "gora" was given the crucial position of Amin Jinsi or Comptroller of Ordinance. Once he assumed charge, he revolutionized the artillery of the army and established the Gunfoundry, which still stands today as a testimony to his vision. Under his guidance, the Nizam's army became one of the best fortified and most formidable in the entire region.

Battle was in his blood, but there was more to this man than just the art of war. Raymond was known far and wide as a good, kind man who never looked down upon the local populace unlike many other foreigners. His bravery, contribution to Hyderabad and his loyalty to the Nizam won him many epithets - to the Muslims he was Musa Rahim, and to the Hindus he was Musa Ram (whence the name Musarambagh).

It's no surprise then that when this foreigner died in 1798 at the young age of 43, he was deeply mourned by all. His dear friend the Nizam had a special memorial errected for him on the top of a hillock, and it still stands there today.

The tomb is a black granite obelisk, and it has the initials JR on it. At the foot of the tomb lies a Grecian-styled pavillion, which is said to house the graves of his family. At the bottom of the hill lies another obelisk which was built over the remains of Raymond's faithful dog and horse. Even in his death, the people of Hyderabad saw to it that he was surrounded by those he loved and who had loved him back.

The years have not been kind to Raymond's memories, with a handful of people knowing the location of the tomb and the stature of the man interred therein. The dilapidated tomb was rebuilt in April 2003, and an open-air theater around the Grecian pavilion was also constructed. And the tomb is still used as a venue for qawwali evenings held in his memory every year. But what you find when you go there today is weeds, graffiti and a sense of desolation.

The monogrammed tomb has a thin trickle of visitors, even after the renovation. The few people who do find their way there usually spend more time gazing into the panaromic view of Hyderabad that the hill affords. A cursory glance at the tomb and a few sniff of disdain about the disarray is what Raymond has been reduced to.

The story of Michel Raymond stands to become lost to the people of today unless it is retold. Here lies a man who was a saint of sorts to the locals. A lesser known one albeit, but a well-loved one nonetheless. He stands testimony to Hyderabad's multihued culture, and to the friendliness of the locals who took a stranger from a far-off land into their hearts.

Source: fullhyd.com

How to get there: Going from Malakpet, at the Asmangarh Signals, where the left goes to Amberpet - take a right and go into the lane next to Hotel Sham. The road is steep and climbs crazily, go all the way up and come down the other side. At the bottom of the hill take a left and proceed some 400 mts. Finally you will find a faded grey board pointing to a lane - the Mons Raymond Monument is at the end of that lane lined with houses. (Thanks to Ravveendrra)


PICTURES:
None of the Locals at Moosarambagh area know about the existence of this tomb! This is the only board which we found. (We got the location after speaking to a policeman at the Malakpet station)
Hyderabad - Heritage Sites - A Lazy (Nizami) Travelogue-dsc_0026.jpg

This one picture is sufficient to prove the state of maintenance here!
Hyderabad - Heritage Sites - A Lazy (Nizami) Travelogue-dsc_0027.jpg

At the end of this passage, there are encroachments/huts and people are living inside the walls of a Protected monument!
Hyderabad - Heritage Sites - A Lazy (Nizami) Travelogue-dsc_0028.jpg

And here's the proof.
Hyderabad - Heritage Sites - A Lazy (Nizami) Travelogue-dsc_0033.jpg

Raymond's sister's tomb.
Hyderabad - Heritage Sites - A Lazy (Nizami) Travelogue-dsc_0029.jpg

Hyderabad - Heritage Sites - A Lazy (Nizami) Travelogue-dsc_0030.jpg

A brief history.
Hyderabad - Heritage Sites - A Lazy (Nizami) Travelogue-dsc_0031.jpg

Hyderabad - Heritage Sites - A Lazy (Nizami) Travelogue-dsc_0032.jpg

Hyderabad - Heritage Sites - A Lazy (Nizami) Travelogue-dsc_0034.jpg

The Tomb.
Hyderabad - Heritage Sites - A Lazy (Nizami) Travelogue-dsc_0035.jpg

JR on the tomb.
Hyderabad - Heritage Sites - A Lazy (Nizami) Travelogue-dsc_0037.jpg

The rebuilt 28-pillared open structure resembling a Grecian Temple. The caretaker was very knowledgeable and was expressing his helplessness in protecting the monument.
Hyderabad - Heritage Sites - A Lazy (Nizami) Travelogue-dsc_0038.jpg

Hyderabad - Heritage Sites - A Lazy (Nizami) Travelogue-dsc_0039.jpg

Hyderabad - Heritage Sites - A Lazy (Nizami) Travelogue-dsc_0040.jpg

View from the hillock.
Hyderabad - Heritage Sites - A Lazy (Nizami) Travelogue-dsc_0042.jpg

TV Tower as seen from the tomb.
Hyderabad - Heritage Sites - A Lazy (Nizami) Travelogue-dsc_0043.jpg

The yellow building in the center is the AsmanGadh Palace.
Hyderabad - Heritage Sites - A Lazy (Nizami) Travelogue-dsc_0044.jpg

Hyderabad - Heritage Sites - A Lazy (Nizami) Travelogue-dsc_0046.jpg

The area around the tomb has turned into a residential colony!
Hyderabad - Heritage Sites - A Lazy (Nizami) Travelogue-dsc_0047.jpg

Hyderabad - Heritage Sites - A Lazy (Nizami) Travelogue-dsc_0048.jpg

P.S: Inviting All Hyderabad T-BHPians to contribute to this thread. (We need to organize another heritage trip)

P.S 2: This thread will be updated in true Nizam Style. (to be interpreted as - There won't be frequent updates.)
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Old 25th July 2009, 17:59   #2
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Splendid pics, Nazim. I regret missing that heritage drive.
Can you please upload a pic from wikimapia giving a pointer to that location?

So Monsieur Raymond was known as 'Moosa Rahim' and perhaps that is why that colony got named as Moosaram Bagh---right?
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Old 25th July 2009, 18:05   #3
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Thanks Nazim for the wonderful writeup and lovely pics. It reminded me of a Sunday well spent hunting down one of the lost (almost) gems of Hyderabad's history.

There are a few more - The Paigah Tombs for e.g. which we can re-discover.

Cheers,
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Old 25th July 2009, 20:00   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vnabhi View Post
Splendid pics, Nazim. I regret missing that heritage drive.
Can you please upload a pic from wikimapia giving a pointer to that location?
The box marked in black on the screen-shot below is the location.
Hyderabad - Heritage Sites - A Lazy (Nizami) Travelogue-location.jpg

Quote:
So Monsieur Raymond was known as 'Moosa Rahim' and perhaps that is why that colony got named as Moosaram Bagh---right?
That's correct. But sad part is most of the locals in the area don't even know about the existence of this place.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ravveendrra View Post
There are a few more - The Paigah Tombs for e.g. which we can re-discover.
I am always ready. Give me a call and we can head out to explore them!
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Old 25th July 2009, 20:09   #5
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Superb Pictures Nazim. Though been through all these areas several times in the past but could never imagine the rich history behind each one of these places.

Great job of uncovering the same and credit goes to Ravvs, Hillram and yourself
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Old 25th July 2009, 20:11   #6
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Default Map - to Erragadda!

Quote:
Originally Posted by vnabhi View Post
Splendid pics, Nazim. I regret missing that heritage drive.
Can you please upload a pic from wikimapia giving a pointer to that location?

So Monsieur Raymond was known as 'Moosa Rahim' and perhaps that is why that colony got named as Moosaram Bagh---right?
Venu saab, this is Hyderabad - using a map, there is only place you will reach - "Erragadda" i.e. pagalkhana!

How to get there: Going from Malakpet, at the Asmangarh Signals, where the left goes to Amberpet - take a right and go into the lane next to Hotel Sham. The road is steep and climbs crazily, go all the way up and come down the other side. At the bottom of the hill take a left (look for a direction board to a church) and proceed some 400 mts. Finally you will find a faded grey board (pic posted here by Pulsar56) pointing to a lane - the Mons Raymond Monument is at the end of that lane lined with houses.
Further tip: reverse into the lane and park as turning around in the lane is a real pain.

Cheers,
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Old 25th July 2009, 22:50   #7
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GLORIOUS !!!

Nazim and Ravvs deserve a lot of credit for actually going ahead with the drive and sharing those wonderful shots with us . Specially after myself and few others had to drop out coz of various reasons.Lets hope the next time i suggest something crazy,I can participate as well. Kudos to you guys seriously.
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Old 25th July 2009, 23:14   #8
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Very well written trip and seriously brings good emotions when you read such stuff.

It pains to see people especially one of PRAKASH written on the monument. Should hang such people for destroying these works which are for a good deed.

But all we can say with this system is how ever great you are you end up in the soil as a forgotten grain and what you have created may be treasured if your lucky or may make you turn in your grave to look at it
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Old 25th July 2009, 23:24   #9
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Ravvs and Nazim,
To attest that a box of chocolate is good, you don't need to consume the whole box. just one piece from the box tells you about the quality. Likewise, I will consume your thread later, as I have discovered it late this night, await my feedback...I know it is good like that "one piece of chocolate".
Regards,

Last edited by fazalaliadil : 25th July 2009 at 23:28.
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Old 25th July 2009, 23:45   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by absynthguzzler View Post
GLORIOUS !!!

Nazim and Ravvs deserve a lot of credit for actually going ahead with the drive and sharing those wonderful shots with us .
Thank You Arun!

Quote:
Originally Posted by maddy42 View Post
Very well written trip and seriously brings good emotions when you read such stuff.

It pains to see people especially one of PRAKASH written on the monument. Should hang such people for destroying these works which are for a good deed.

But all we can say with this system is how ever great you are you end up in the soil as a forgotten grain and what you have created may be treasured if your lucky or may make you turn in your grave to look at it
Just the same thought I had! But, this is a democratic county. We have to cope up with such scum, everywhere in this country!

Quote:
Originally Posted by fazalaliadil View Post
Ravvs and Nazim,
To attest that a box of chocolate is good, you don't need to consume the whole box. just one piece from the box tells you about the quality.
Regards,
Fazal saab, hoping you join us with your bazookas next time!
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Old 26th July 2009, 00:38   #11
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Very interesting - a part of Hyderabad that I'd never heard about in the last 4 years & one i wouldn't have ever known if it wasn't for this!
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Old 26th July 2009, 10:45   #12
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The whole box of chocolate was quality.
Very well photographed and written, this thread highlights the sorry state of affairs of historic and heritage monuments in Hyderabad.
The Paigah tombs, are one of them, the intricate filigree work on these tombs and the unique style of Paigah Islamic architecture are all very evident here.
There are many locals and visitors who have carved their name in the limestone walls and broken the delicate filigree grills.
Then there is Saidaniamma's tomb on Hyderabad- Secunderabad road.
Architecturally, the Qutubshahi tombs stand above all, even literally in their majestic splendor. Unfortunately the Archeological Department has not really done the job in it's restoration they should have and for monetary gains lease out the premisis for Telugu and Hindi film shoots....where gyrating hips are moving to loud music and also rape scenes enacted in front of the camera on these very premisis, very conviniently forgetting that this is the last resting place of people of our race and a certian decorum needs to be followed when visiting this place (a graveyard) like cleanliness, peace, reverence and prayers for the buried.
I will certianly join you on future programmes, but I need the wide angle more than the Bazooka on these shoots.
Regards,
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Old 26th July 2009, 11:46   #13
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Well written, and quite entertaining.

I do agree with everyone about the state of archeological sites in India (more specifically, Hyderabad). I can confidently say that there is not a single monument in Hyderabad which isn't falling apart, has trees growing from the roof, with lovers engraving their name, unhygienic surroundings, and overall horrendous maintenance . I wonder what our grandchildren will have left to see if the preservation of these prestigeous sites continues this this fashion.


and Nazim, any idea if the AsmanGadh Palace is open for viewing? or is it just as dilapidated as the Gererals Tomb, and no one has ever heard about it?

Last edited by discobiscuit : 26th July 2009 at 11:48.
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Old 27th July 2009, 15:47   #14
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Nice info pulsar56,Great way to know about the city for newbie like me ,looking forward for many more treasures to be unearthed .
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Old 27th July 2009, 15:58   #15
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Very nice thread pulsar. Highlighting the lost glory of Hyderabad and almost forgotten heritage sites. Its very sad that none of the locals nor the officials are keen on resorting these sites. Its a shame on all of us for letting these master pieces to be ruined by senseless idiots who get some sadistic pleasure by writing their names and idiotic messages without giving any regard for the immense value of these monuments.
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