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Old 19th September 2009, 13:38   #91
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Day 7

In a way, it turned out to be a good thing that we came back because Amit fell violently ill the next day – nausea & vomiting. It made us wonder whether both our symptoms were because of the AMS or the retrospectively suspicious rajma chawal at Khoksar!

We thought that the worst was over & things could only get better from here on. Srinagar was where we were going. Little did we know.

Last edited by amip : 19th September 2009 at 13:40.
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Old 19th September 2009, 13:45   #92
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Originally Posted by amip View Post
Day 6
Surprisingly I started regretting my decision almost right away – the fresh air while riding back made me feel better – but I didn’t want to go back & do the same thing again. There was grim silence from both of us riding back – both crestfallen at the way things had turned out.
I can imagine the pain you guys must have felt as you returned. So near yet so far.

But you did the right thing. With AMS hitting hard there is no point in continuing, the only solution to AMS problem is to recede to lower altitudes. Acetazolomide's are only precautionary medicines, they do not cure AMS, they just mask the affect. ( I know of a few incidences where some people went ahead to Kailash with regular Diamox intakes, but that prooved to be fatal). I strongly believe that no reason whether being religious or for pleasure is so strong that you have to put your health at risk for.)

I am glad you listened to your head rather than listening to your heart. Leh can wait but life wont!!!

Edit: Good Lord..now both of you are ill and still "little did we know" has to happen. This is turning out to be a big humdinger.

Last edited by deky : 19th September 2009 at 13:48.
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Old 19th September 2009, 14:13   #93
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Khoksar has some of the dirtiest food to offer. The "aloo Parantha" or whatever it was gave us tough time.
Luckily no infection.
Anyways on our trips we carry a cache of Lopramide and Norflox TZ for emergency use.
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Old 19th September 2009, 14:16   #94
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And here I dare say that it was not AMS! And you have given a BIG hint too!
What you have described does not fit the known pattern.
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Old 19th September 2009, 14:36   #95
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This sounds real serious Ami!!!
You were hit by AMS very badly, hope you recovered quickly .
What after the morning ?Did you manage to get through the day ?
I felt much better the minute we were riding again

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Originally Posted by deky View Post
I can imagine the pain you guys must have felt as you returned. So near yet so far.

But you did the right thing. With AMS hitting hard there is no point in continuing, the only solution to AMS problem is to recede to lower altitudes. Acetazolomide's are only precautionary medicines, they do not cure AMS, they just mask the affect. ( I know of a few incidences where some people went ahead to Kailash with regular Diamox intakes, but that prooved to be fatal). I strongly believe that no reason whether being religious or for pleasure is so strong that you have to put your health at risk for.)


I am glad you listened to your head rather than listening to your heart. Leh can wait but life wont!!!
Thats what i figured Deky. If i made it, so would many trips!

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And here I dare say that it was not AMS! And you have given a BIG hint too!
What you have described does not fit the known pattern.
We did go back & check with a couple of doctors at Manali (most advanced AMS cases come back here) & they mentioned that patterns can differ depending on the person. They said my symptoms were not typical of AMS, but not rare either. So its sort of a toss up between that or a particularly well disguised vile rajma chawal!
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Old 19th September 2009, 14:50   #96
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So its sort of a toss up between that or a particularly well disguised vile rajma chawal!
Then how would one explain Amit coming down with similar symptoms after coming down in altitude, which makes a dramatic improvement?
My vote goes to food poisoning.
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Old 19th September 2009, 14:58   #97
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Originally Posted by anupmathur View Post
Then how would one explain Amit coming down with similar symptoms after coming down in altitude, which makes a dramatic improvement?
My vote goes to food poisoning.
Yes i agree - thats what makes the whole thing murky...i did recover completely, the minute we went below 3000m though
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Old 19th September 2009, 15:46   #98
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Then how would one explain Amit coming down with similar symptoms after coming down in altitude, which makes a dramatic improvement?
My vote goes to food poisoning.
Anup sir, I would beg to differ with you on the same. The symptoms the guys have mentioned point to HACE or high altitude cerebral edema/oedma.

I am no doctor but on my readings before the Kailash trip I did learn that HACE with the presence of AMS can be nearly fatal. The symptoms of HACE is vomiting, nausea, gas in the tummy, weakness, loss of memory, disorientation, hallucinations and in extreme conditions coma.

Usually patients at high altitude take "diamox" which justs masks the affects. If HACE sets the affects will linger on for a while even if you descend to a lower altitude.

Thats why I am so glad the guys stop journey and returned.

Last edited by deky : 19th September 2009 at 15:55.
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Old 20th September 2009, 18:23   #99
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Day 8

Day 8 dawned bright & clear & was supposed to be our last day in Manali before riding onto Srinagar . We were feeling almost as good as new & looking forwad o the two weeks that still remained – Nishant (the guy who runs Drifters) suggested that we spend the Sunday afternoon at a place called Himalayan Adventure Club near Schnag ( for lack of a better spelling) village. He mentioned that some foreigners had married local women and settled down here and this particular place had a Sunday “feast” for visitors. It sounded right up our alley so we decided to take him up on it – riding to Schnag past Ghoshal (another village) through the apple orchards was great – never had I (from the impoverished plains) ever seen the sight of hundreds of apple trees with ripe fruit, just ready for the picking. Nor had I ever expected to be assailed by an inexplicable urge to steal! And I must confess, steal we did – but just a couple of them! I swear I could taste the crisp mountain air in those apples!

On the way to Schnag

AMS, a Fracture & What turned out to be a Manali trip!-dsc08038.jpg

AMS, a Fracture & What turned out to be a Manali trip!-dsc08053.jpg

AMS, a Fracture & What turned out to be a Manali trip!-dsc08043.jpg

AMS, a Fracture & What turned out to be a Manali trip!-dsc08052.jpg

When we got to the Himalayan Adventure club – we were pleasantly surprised to see a large lawn & courtyard with tables laid out and all sorts of steaks, trout & pizzas available. Beer & wine was available to wash your meal down with. The sun made the nip in the air pleasant and the whole ambience of the place was one of peace & quiet. I think it even got to the dogs who were sleeping almost throughout. There were all sorts of people there – backpackers like us, richer Western tourists, Indian tourists as well as Himachali speaking locals. Sometimes Manali has this tendency along with many other places in India to feel like an International village. The children of the owner looked completely foreign but spoke clearly in the local dialect.

Himalayan Adventure Club

AMS, a Fracture & What turned out to be a Manali trip!-dsc08058.jpg

AMS, a Fracture & What turned out to be a Manali trip!-dsc08059.jpg

AMS, a Fracture & What turned out to be a Manali trip!-dsc08057.jpg

AMS, a Fracture & What turned out to be a Manali trip!-dsc08056.jpg

The sun was out - and it seemed the perfect way to spend a lazy Sunday afternoon. This was where the second disaster was to happen!

Last edited by amip : 20th September 2009 at 18:29.
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Old 20th September 2009, 18:32   #100
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hehe.. perfect!!
the apple must have tasted so good, isn't it.
So here is the fracture that happened, is it?
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Old 20th September 2009, 20:07   #101
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Ah lovely. Very well narrated triplog. Really like how you've built it up.

As for the food at khoksar, I don't think that's the cause. Unless your stomach does not take kindly to street food!
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Old 20th September 2009, 20:37   #102
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The sun was out - and it seemed the perfect way to spend a lazy Sunday afternoon. This was where the second disaster was to happen!
Forbidden apples!!
Who'd have thunk it!
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Old 20th September 2009, 20:56   #103
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Dont tell me someone got hurt plucking apples.
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Old 20th September 2009, 20:58   #104
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Dont tell me someone got hurt plucking apples.
Not quite - but just as ludicrous
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Old 20th September 2009, 21:13   #105
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@amip: You just know how to keep our curiosity piqued.

Just hope it was not all that beer etc. at the lunch which was the culprit.

Apples off the tree and just out of this world and a bite in to one can guarantee juices flowing all over your face. Waiting for the next.
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