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Old 13th October 2009, 20:25   #361
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Just marked the thread 5 star (*****), actually it deserves a 7 star, but the system allows me to give only 5 star


Thanks very much to the Trinity for this wonderful travelogue offering different perspectives

HVK :- A planner's & pilot's view, great attention to details about all Ws & Hs

Laluks : A traveller's view, complete with all the amazing details, attractions, photographs etc

SJ_Koova : a photographer's view, some of the best photographs i have seen all wall paper quality.

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Old 13th October 2009, 20:42   #362
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Simply superb stuff. This year there are way too many Ladakh trips write ups but all of them are beautiful. Great job SJ_Koova/Laluks with your shoot. Now, waiting for the next part.
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Old 13th October 2009, 21:04   #363
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StarVegabond View Post
Just marked the thread 5 star (*****), actually it deserves a 7 star, but the system allows me to give only 5 star


Thanks very much to the Trinity for this wonderful travelogue offering different perspectives

HVK :- A planner's & pilot's view, great attention to details about all Ws & Hs

Laluks : A traveller's view, complete with all the amazing details, attractions, photographs etc

SJ_Koova : a photographer's view, some of the best photographs i have seen all wall paper quality.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rudra Sen View Post
Simply superb stuff. This year there are way too many Ladakh trips write ups but all of them are beautiful. Great job SJ_Koova/Laluks with your shoot. Now, waiting for the next part.
Thank You sirs
Result of an amazing team work

Excellent story by Lalu and perfect detailing by HVK. And my pics are just ice on the cake.
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Old 13th October 2009, 21:12   #364
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As Saji mentioned, it is good team work that makes a happy and successful trip. One can never underestimate the importance of planning a trip well, without being over-rigid or compromising flexibility on the move.

Thanks for all the good words for the team, we must also particularly mention special thanks to all those who have written about their trips in the forum, which have helped us immensely in planning and executing the trip.
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Old 13th October 2009, 21:20   #365
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rudra Sen View Post
Simply superb stuff. This year there are way too many Ladakh trips write ups but all of them are beautiful. Great job SJ_Koova/Laluks with your shoot. Now, waiting for the next part.
Thank you Rudra ji. Updates coming up

Quote:
Originally Posted by hvkumar View Post
Thanks for all the good words for the team, we must also particularly mention special thanks to all those who have written about their trips in the forum, which have helped us immensely in planning and executing the trip.
A very special thanks to all those who have written the logs on this amazing forum, and this log is our thank you to all.
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Old 14th October 2009, 08:44   #366
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Quote:
Originally Posted by laluks View Post
I wont update. Nobody likes my pictures
Aaah, teasing with style , Ok sir, here 5 stars, for you and team, and its already 24hrs, Kumar ji covered Chitkul to Mumbai in less than that time, and we still have not reached Spiti
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Old 14th October 2009, 09:12   #367
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rkbharat View Post
Aaah, teasing with style , Ok sir, here 5 stars, for you and team, and its already 24hrs, Kumar ji covered Chitkul to Mumbai in less than that time, and we still have not reached Spiti
Since you gave us 5 stars, the updates are coming now.
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Old 14th October 2009, 09:31   #368
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Day 12, September 23rd, 2009
Keylong - Tandi -Sissoo -Gramphoo- Chotta Dhara - Bada Dhara - Battal - Chandertaal (tried) - Battal - Kunzum la - Losar -Kyoto -Rangrik - Kaza


We started from Keylong at 7:00 in the morning. The views were changing, little green was seen, a welcome break from the barren terrains of Ladakh.

See the views till we reached Tandi.

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We filled up Diesel from Tandi. The next petrol pump is far away.
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Also at Tandi we had personalised service from GK
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Some views from Tandi till Gramphoo
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These Kids were happy to get some chocolates.
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Glenn's Scorpio still got the warning lamps, and after discussing with service advisors and bleeding the fuel lines of further air bubbles we continued. But since it was not the issue, the lamp glowed often and Glenn decided that it quits.

Glenn had taken a very wise decision in not pushing his car though technically it would have. He was firm on the decision that he is not comfortable in pushing his Scorpio, and with such a thought in his mind he would not enjoy the loop. Well I must admit it takes enormous will, to take such a decision, having come so far and at the last leg. Frankly, in such a situation - if it was me I would have mostly messed it up big time.

With a much heavy heart he continued onward his journey to M&M service station at Mandi from Gramphoo - and to meet us further at Delhi. He insisted that we carry on with HVK, and he would follow the others in the convoy going to Delhi. We were kindly accomodated by HVK in his scorpio for the Spiti run. Now HVK's scorpio was five members and the Spiti run starts.


continued...

Last edited by laluks : 14th October 2009 at 09:36.
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Old 14th October 2009, 09:49   #369
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Day 12, September 23rd, 2009 Continued
Gramphoo- Chotta Dhara - Bada Dhara


We started around 10:30AM from Gramphoo. We reached Chota Dhara by 12:00PM and Bada Dhara by 12:30PM. In this drive we had to go in between snow that was quite high like a wall, and the slightest movement the ice was breaking and falling on the car!!. Saji will put that photo.

Some views till Bada Dhara.

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Some views from HVK's cockpit
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continued...
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Old 14th October 2009, 09:55   #370
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And the most awaited part starts! Lahul&Spitti

Here I come with my share of pics

Day12 pics
Keylong - Tandi

Morning view from HPTDC hotel at Keylong
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Taken during the fuel break at Keylong
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Old 14th October 2009, 09:56   #371
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MY TAKE ON Day 12, September 23, 2009, Keylong-Kaza, 204 kms

The last day of the full convoy – we go different ways this day, no more looking over my shoulder to check if all the cars were in line - 4 Scorpios (MC, RM, Doc M and VB) back to their home bases (H’Bad, G’gaon, Pune, C’Garh) via Manali, and the other 2 (HVK, Glenn) onward to Lahaul, Spiti and Kinnaur Valleys. The 3 Latvians shifted to the Delhi-bound cars, and Glenn and I were off from Keylong at 650 am. Good souls at Hotel Chanderbhaga, they packed us aloo parathas for breakfast that early in the morning. The Hotel Chanderbhaga is in a great location overlooking some of the Himalayan peaks and the golden sunrise was a sight to die for.

Tandi is the only petrol pump in the Leh-Karu-Manali route (after Karu, before Manali), the only petrol pump in 325 kms, and run by some Aloo Growers Association, sells only premium diesel. They claim to be open from 630 am – 700 pm which also explained our late morning start today. We tanked up at Tandi (9 kms from Keylong) at 710 am. Just behind us was the river bridge which stands at the sangam of the Chandra and Bhaga rivers (we had been following the Bhaga river from Baralacha la onwards) – it becomes the Chanderbhaga River and joins the Chenab River somewhere near Pahalgam. We also took note of the road turning off to Udeypur which is an exciting route to Dalhousie/Chamba Valley via the Sach Pass. Keylong remains cut off from the rest of the world during the winter months once Rohtang Pass closes down, but is a self-sufficient town. The HPTDC hotel also closes down by end-October, and after the road closes the only way to get out of this Lahaul Valley hemmed in between Rohtang and Baralacha la passes, is to take a chopper out.

It is a lovely road from Tandi towards Manali (common road till Gramphoo), but there were a couple of bad sections which involved river crossings (at Khoksar), one of who was quite nasty and deep/rubbled enough to deter any sedan owner. This is fertile countryside with potato and rice farming watered by the Chandra River. Lots of villages like Gondla, Sissu and Khoksar, all of whom have some PWD rest houses or basic guest houses. This road also takes a big beating in the summer months (May-Jun) with lots of mud and landslides. We reached the village of Gramphoo (well, not exactly a village, there are 3 tea shops, a couple of goats and a few burly truck drivers here) and you can miss the junction easily – there is a small path going down which is the road to Kaza. You take a right here and you clamber over Rohtang Pass in 15 kms over to Manali and the noisy tourist circuit, but if you take a left you go back to wilderness that is uncommon even in Ladakh.

At Gramphoo, there was an abrupt change of plan – Glenn’s Scorpio had been having some problems with its pick up over the last 2-3 days and the car was struggling up some of the steep slopes and the warning lights blazing away. We tried vacuuming the fuel lines but Glenn was worried and decided to drop the Lahaul-Spiti-Kinnaur circuit and scurry to the nearest M&M workshop (either Manali or Mandi) and get the problem fixed. We were all sorry to see him go – in the meantime, Anirudh had also arrived on the scene – and Saji, Lalu and Ganesh relocated to my car, making it a nicely crowded 5-man Scorpio piled up to the ceiling with luggage. The impromptu repairs and shifting delayed us a bit and by the time we left Gramphoo (which was 53 kms from Keylong) the sun was high in the sky and time was 1040 am. So here on it was to be only one Scorpio, and we decided to meet up with Glenn again at Delhi.

The road to Kaza is one of the most desolate and passes one of the most uninhabited of regions. Road is dirt track all the way in Lahaul Valley and hugs the banks of the River Chandra. What a drive it was – it had snowed heavily the past few days and the roads had just reopened after lots of landslides and snow blockades. There was snow all over, the landscapes were awesome and the roar of the water deafening. The Scorpio squeezed its way through 20-feet walls of snow as we wound our way through Chhatru (1 tea shop, 1 PWD Rest House and 1 miscellaneous building), Chota Dara (1 tea shop, 1 PWD Rest House) and Bada Dara (1 tea shop, 1 Bridge and many rocks), praying that none of the boulders will fall down and crush us, especially in the landslide-prone zones. We were scared to honk lest we dislodge a stone! At Bada Dara (52 kms from Gramphoo, 2.10 hrs, 1257 pm), we started the steep climb to Kunzum la on what purports to be a road, but is really a cross between a goat path and a rally road, clinging on to the cliff sides that will provoke an attack of vertigo even for a lizard on your bedroom wall). As the road twisted up and up, the whites manifested themselves and one had to wear goggles to avoid going snow-blind. We reached Batal and decided to branch off to see the Chandra Tal, one of the loveliest of lakes in the Himalayan region. Alas, that was not to be – 1 km into the 13-km road and we were stopped by a massive snow landslide on the road, leaving us no choice but to reverse the Scorpio (turn? where was the space to turn!). So it was a disappointed Famous 5 which returned to the main road and proceeded to Kunzum la, assuaged by the blanket of snow all around.

Kunzum la (14,946 feet, 65 kms from Gramphoo, 145 pm) is the dividing line between the Lahaul and Spiti Valleys, and a 4-month open road. It also adjoins the Bara Sigri Glacier which is one of the largest glaciers in the Himalayan region. After doing a pradakshina of the chortens atop the pass, we descended to Losar, where we had a late lunch at 235 pm, at a restaurant which claimed to be the best in the Spiti Valley – and indeed, the food was very good. Losar also has a few guest houses, and is the last town in Spiti Valley that you can drive to in winter (from Kaza) after the Kunzum la closes down for its winter vacation. It is a well-populated Spiti Valley after Losar and each of the villages – Hansa, Kyato, Pangmo, Hull, Morang and Rangrik – has a small gompa and there are lots of prayer flags fluttering all over, testifying to the Buddhist fervor of the place. All the while we are travelling with the Spiti River, which gathers momentum in the 80 kms to Kaza, the deep cratered and fissured valleys testifying to the ferocity of its waters fed by the melting snows in early summer. The Spiti Valley stretches from the base of the Kunzum la at Losar all the way to the beginning of the Kinnaur Valley at Sumdo, almost 150 kms long by road. From Losar, the road condition also improves.

We reached Kaza at 500 pm and checked into HPTDC’s Hotel Spiti, which was a great place, although a little expensive. There are lots of hotels and guest houses in Kaza, but come October and most of them fold up for the winter, except for the palatial PWD Rest House. Surprise, surprise, Kaza has a petrol pump which out-claims the Leh petrol pump as the highest petrol pump in the world (12,073 feet vs. Leh’s 11,225 feet). The small bazaar has lots of foreigners loitering around and Sudhir was thrilled to get his film rolls (he had run out of film, having exposed some 15 rolls already).

It was a quiet evening in Kaza, we were relieved to hear that Glenn got to the M&M workshop at Mandi and diagnosed his car’s problem, and the remaining cars were safely ensconced in Manali before making their final run to Delhi.
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Old 14th October 2009, 10:06   #372
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Day 12, September 23rd, 2009 Continued
Bada Dhara - Battal - Chandertaal (tried) - Battal - Kunzum la


We stopped by for some photographs near the river.
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We reached Battal by 13:15Pm and decided to go to Chandertal. A few Kilometers later we found that the road is fully blocked by snow and aborted the mission. This is the first abort in the drive till now.

HVK once wrote here Matiz-able He did it in his matiz. HV sir please tell us some more about that trip, and please put some photos of Chandertaal from that journey.
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The roads to Chandertaal covered in snow.
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After a careful reverse in the narrow road we reached back the fork and continued onwards to Kunzum La.

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continued...
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Old 14th October 2009, 10:08   #373
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Day 12
Gramphoo- Chotta Dhara - Bada Dhara

These kids were very happy to pose for a snap
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These kids came running to us asking for chocolates. I had two energy bars and I gave it to them. The bigger and smarter kids got them and the smallest one starts crying. I tried telling the kids to share, but they gave us excuses. Later Lalu gave 2 centerfresh to small kid and he was damn happy. Nice experience I must say. We waved bye-bye and moved on.
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Old 14th October 2009, 10:17   #374
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laluks, I've serious problem with your picture sizing.
You must consider old man's eye sight.
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Old 14th October 2009, 10:17   #375
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Day 12
Gramphoo- Chotta Dhara - Bada Dhara continued..

Along with
Chanderbhaga River
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