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Old 20th March 2010, 00:30   #61
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Hi ADC,

Nice to see this travelogue up and running. I have been waiting for it very eagerly, now I finally get to relive that trip thanks to looking at if from your perspective.

The opening pics of all of us at your cousin's house made my mouth water as it reminded me of that sumptuous breakfast your cousins treated us to.

LOL your reference to "A quick hello" had me in splits. That was some experience for me - waking up at 2.00 a.m., 2000 km from home and saying Hello to someone I had never set eyes on before!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by s3va View Post
excellent log and pics !

how did you manage the TBhp Tshirts ?

And how are those tyres for normal usage in the city ? Is the ride comfortable ?
The TBHP T-Shirts are Hyderabadi in origin. Some major jugaad went into them and we now have two editions - black from last year (2008) and white from 2009.

Quote:
Originally Posted by smartcat View Post
Was it snowing when you were driving? Did the AP2AP team see the snowfall?

I guess snowfall happens only in the night.
Yups, we did see some snow while climbing to Sela (windward side as ADC pointed out). I was the only one who was fortunate to drive through some scanty snowfall. - The others were out pushing the car! See AP to AP: In search of a white X-mas and found a street party! for for more details.


Keep it coming ADC, I am glued to this thread now.

Cheers,

Last edited by Ravveendrra : 20th March 2010 at 00:38.
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Old 20th March 2010, 07:03   #62
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Awesome pics! great travelogue as well. And you are right; the view of snow leaves quite a lasting impression in minds.
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Old 20th March 2010, 18:39   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by akroy View Post
God knows when will I get to cover NE. I had dreams of doing it in my Alto !!
Abhi
Abhi, hope to see you back soon and let those wonderful travelogues flow again through your Alto - you are the veteran out here!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ravveendrra View Post
The opening pics of all of us at your cousin's house made my mouth water as it reminded me of that sumptuous breakfast your cousins treated us to
Oh! that breakfast was a saver - we could pass that noon time 2-hr blockade without much hunger pangs.


Quote:
Originally Posted by swiftnfurious View Post
Awesome pics! great travelogue as well. And you are right; the view of snow leaves quite a lasting impression in minds.
Here's PTSO Lake that overcast day and then the no-snow view the very next day when we went to Bumla.
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Old 20th March 2010, 19:20   #64
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Default Day #5 - Tawang-Pankang Teng Tso [ PT TSO] - Sangetsar Lake [JO-NGA-TSEIR] contd...

Day #5 contd.. Pankang Teng Tso Lake to Sangetsar Lake


Sangetsar Lake is located at a lower altitude after Y-Junction, the road is downhill, sun came through, and weather was much more clearer now.

Quote:
From Greeptsang Tso the road breaks up into a track and after a few steep stretches comes Y-Junction, 3 Kms from the lake. It's called Y-Junction because the road intersection is in the shape of a Y.

A straight from Y- Junction will take you to Sangesar Lake also known as Madhuri Lake and the small turn on the right will take you to Bum-la.
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Beautiful colours and jagged peaks

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A couple of lakes we passed through

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And then finally the first view of Lake Sangetsar [Jo Nga Tsier] as we descend down to it.

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contd..




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Old 20th March 2010, 20:47   #65
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Default Day #5 - Tawang-Pankang Teng Tso - Sangetsar Lake - Tawang contd..

Day #5 contd.. Pankang Teng Tso Lake to Sangetsar Lake

Some background info about Sangetsar Lake

Quote:
Sangetsar Lake in the same place covers an area of 5sq km an altitude of 3790m. 42 KM away from Tawang. Land records say the lake was created by a flash flood following the 1950 earthquake in the region.

Its bed, once a forested slope, sank in the tremor, taking with it the forest of tall pine trees. As water filled in, the trees died but their bare lofty trunks remained, standing sentinel over the serene blue lake that’s encircled by high mountains.


This part of the downhill road was on shadow area of the mountain, no sun and the snow was still there.
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Reaching, getting out of the warmth of VTT-TMT; cold it is and time to wrap up.
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A small stream drains to the Lake from this side
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As the Lake, came into view - what a sight it was, mist, cold, the mountains, those tree stumps, the Army cottage out there - the quietness was stunning!!

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Thats the Army cottage, absolutely an amazing experience it would be to spend the night out here - but then you need contacts in Army for that.

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The other "the wanderers" spent some time enjoying the solitude, I roamed around the Lake
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contd...

Last edited by adc : 20th March 2010 at 20:55.
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Old 20th March 2010, 23:08   #66
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The lake is so unreal - Looks like somebody planted those tree trunks there!

Your wife and kid look cozy in their attire. How about showing yours?
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Old 21st March 2010, 10:57   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smartcat View Post
Your wife and kid look cozy in their attire. How about showing yours?
Here I am, at my wife's insistence since very few photos of myself in this tour - a typical "I was there" kind of snap
Safari VTT-TMT Exotic Tour - Known and Unknown Western Arunachal and Nameri[Assam]-img_5276.jpg


Quote:
Originally Posted by smartcat View Post
The lake is so unreal - Looks like somebody planted those tree trunks there!
Absolutely, here are 2 more of the Lake.
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Old 22nd March 2010, 22:20   #68
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Default Day #5 - Tawang-Pankang Teng Tso - Sangetsar Lake - Tawang contd..

Day #5 contd.. Sangetsar Lake To Tawang


Having spent a wholesomely satisfying time out there by the Lake, other tourists started arriving and we went to small food joint that is run by Army. We had our lunch over there - hot Maggi and tea
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Quote:
We had kept the Safari VTT at the open ground just a little on the top and walked down. Seeing us with a child, the youngest tourist out there, an Army officer comes up forward and asks his driver to drop us where the Safari is parked - a distance of around may be 50 mtrs but of course a relief as I was carrying him on the back and that height takes out quite amount of breath. A sudden gesture - a simple thank you is all what I could muster - and the Army officer just smiles.

Beautiful Gypsy on which we took the ride - I was checking it out also before as we just reached the Lake

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One last view of the Lake as we start on our return journey to Tawang

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And the snowy roads and the micro slides starts once again and then the rocky trail
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And we pass the Lakes again
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Golden words for a high mountain journey

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Quote:
Leave early - to be there before the mass tourist crowd

Drive slowly - to enjoy and to remember the views

Arrive safely - to travel another day


A salute to all the BRO men and women

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And 3 km before Y junction, we gave lift to 2 Army men, going to Y junction

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It was late afternoon and just after Y junction, the weather turned out quite overcast and slight snowfall - but we enjoyed it fully, stopped in between to feel the mist and the flakes.

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Crossing the snowline, Tawang town came into view
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So it had been a great day well spent, we still had another hour before dusk - headed off to the Army memorial to the other side of Tawang

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contd...

Last edited by adc : 22nd March 2010 at 22:32.
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Old 23rd March 2010, 12:10   #69
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Default Day #5 contd.. - Sangetsar Lake to Tawang War Memorial

Tawang War Memorial: Honouring 1962 Sino-Indian war heroes

Quote:
Tawang War Memorial at Tawang in Arunachal Pradesh is dedicated to the martyrs of the 1962 Sino-Indian war. The memorial is nestled among picturesque snow-capped peaks overlooking the imposing Tawang-Chu valley.

GOC Eastern Command, Lt. Gen. H. R. S. Kalkat, dedicated the memorial, which is nestled among picturesque snow-capped peaks overlooking the imposing Tawang-Chu valley and called on the jawans to emulate the feat of those who sacrificed their lives in war.

Recalling their sacrifices, Lt. Gen. Kalkat said the jawans stood their ground against the Chinese assault for 31 days, fought bravely and gave up their life for the honour of the nation. They fought valiantly despite inadequate logistics back-up, which made them fight in cotton uniforms at sub-zero temperature and with just 50 rounds of ammunition per rifle, he said.

The 40-foot-high multi-hued war memorial to the unsung heroes, designed by the Army and constructed at a cost of about Rs 15 lakh, was dedicated in the presence of civilians and Army personnel, whose band played patriotic song eulogising the warriors’ sacrifices. Blessed by Dalai Lama in 1997, the imposing structure in a stupa design is locally called ‘Namgyal Chortan’ and has names of 2420 dead soldiers etched in gold on 32 black granite plagues. The memorial is flanked by two memorial halls –– one housing the personal articles of the martyrs and the other would be used for sound-and-light show depicting their heroic deeds, Army sources said.

The representatives of the regiments which fought the battle was present on the occasion as a symbol of the past.

The Kameng frontier division of the erstwhile North East Frontier Agency (NEFA) roughly corresponds to the present Tawang district of Arunachal Pradesh. It had witnessed the bitterly fought battles of 1962 Sino-Indian conflict. Though the nation that time had to undergo a humbling experience but the same cannot be said of the gallant soldiers who set new milestones of valour. Against the most damning odds, soldiers fought with antique rifles, 50 rounds of ammunition and cotton uniforms but with a brave heart within. They stood their ground against the on-coming cohorts of the enemy and died with the guns blazing and with a bullet in the chest.

On January 18, 1999 the construction of the war memorial was carried out by hundreds of monks with the active participation of the locals and government officials. In keeping with the local religious sentiments, idols of Lord Buddha, scriptures, ornaments, jewels, valuables and other items were deposited. The war memorial was even blessed by Dalai Lama, who sent holy scriptures and idols of Arya Avlokiteshwara and Lord Buddha personally blessed by him. These have been deposited in the vaults of the stupa. The memorial is certainly be a pride of Tawang after the famous monastery and will not only remind the glory of brave acts of the heroes of 1962, but will touch the hearts of every visitor as at the base of the memorial it is written: "How can man die better than facing fearful odds, for the ashes of his father and the temples of his Gods."
Directly from Sangetsar Lake we went through Tawang town to reach the War Memorial late evening.
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Subedar Joginder Singh, Param Vir Chakra
[]Error
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Inside the War Memorial and the guns, liked the shotgun!

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As the evening sun faded away we reached the hotel exhausted but a day well spent and to be remembered. And the day was not over for me. For going to the Indo-China border post [Bumla], one requires a permit - luckily the hotel owner had some contact, but going to the Army to have it validated had to be done by me.

Went down around night time again to the War Memorial office area to have the permit stamped. And what a feeling it was - got the permit validated and stamped - super excited as we will be headed to Bumla the next day with our own Safari VTT

Safari VTT-TMT Exotic Tour - Known and Unknown Western Arunachal and Nameri[Assam]-img_5428.jpg


contd.... coming up Bumla journey
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Old 23rd March 2010, 12:44   #70
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We spent some tense moments (1.5 hrs) at the Korea Brigade while we were waiting for our permits to visit Bumla.
The amount of respect the jawans show towards the martyrs and the war memorial is commendable!

Waiting for your Bumla pictures eagerly!
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Old 23rd March 2010, 17:46   #71
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Originally Posted by pulsar56 View Post
We spent some tense moments (1.5 hrs) at the Korea Brigade while we were waiting for our permits to visit Bumla.
The amount of respect the jawans show towards the martyrs and the war memorial is commendable!

Waiting for your Bumla pictures eagerly!

Gave our application over at Korea Bridage and was told to come back in 2 hours. Went back to the hotel and definitely some tense moments there about the outcome.

Permit validated and stamped - it was surely felt great. Have all the past "exclusive" permits with me - North Sikkim, East Sikkim and now Bumla - just as a momento kind of thing!




Day #6: Tawang to Bumla


The previous evening had all the air pressure checked out in a shop but while chatting with a few drivers out there about Bumla, they were very dismissive about me making it till the top - hard packed ice had formed in 2 incline places and told me categorically about this 2wd not reaching. But then its too late now - decision has been made and we are pushing till we can and take the trail as it comes. Early morning on day 6, and its super clear day unlike yesterday.


Quote:
B U M L A [16500 ft]

Bumla is 37 kms away from Tawang. From Tawang to Y-junction is 22 Kms which is metalled and the rest 15 Kms is graveled. This road is one of the shortest connectivity points to china from Tawang (India). In the Chinese side, the geographical terrain and landscape is far better than Indian side. Shyo (China) is 3 Kms, Kachin- 5 Kms, Dengding 6 Kms and Nyagdo 8 kms from Bumla. The nearest major town of Chinese side, Tsonajong is 43 Kms from Bumla border post. It is a district HQ town as well as Brigade HQ connecting Gordung-Lhasa-Beijing trunk Highway. It is connected by all weather metalled road to Tsethang (district HQ in Tibet, China) by a distance of 508 Kms from Bunmla (India).

Bum-la is the pass from where Dalai Lama entered India escaping from Tibet and the Chinese Army. He was wearing Army fatigues as a camouflage. He stayed at the Tawang Monastery (which is incidentally the birthplace of the 6th Dalai Lama) for four days before going to Bomdila.

The road to Bum-la is also a historical route, since it is from here that the Chinese marched into India and were at Tawang the next day. In fact, some portion of the road was made by the then Chinese Army for vehicular traffic. Marks and holes from bullets from the 1962 war could still be seen enroute. India had lost 4,000 of her men while China lost 3,000.
Heading out of Tawang again towards Y junction.
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Since we left early morning, as we gain altitude snow was still on the road and on shadow areas but the views were clear - just what is needed to go to a high mountain pass. Today's weather was the complete opposite from yesterday
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contd...

Last edited by adc : 23rd March 2010 at 18:01.
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Old 23rd March 2010, 18:06   #72
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Wow, these areas are truly remote! Waiting eagerly for the next installment. With clear weather, I am sure photography opportunities were endless
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Old 23rd March 2010, 18:22   #73
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Day #6 contd.. - Tawang to Bum La

Clear day and PTSO Lake has minimum snow cover, quite opposite to what yesterday was.
Safari VTT-TMT Exotic Tour - Known and Unknown Western Arunachal and Nameri[Assam]-img_5814.jpg

Papers checked at Y junction [cut off time to check-in is 1 pm], we take the right turn for Bum La. The straight goes to Sangetsar Lake, covered yesterday.

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The rocky trail starts from Y junction[14,000 feet]

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And the big inclines start from the Klemta Lake. As I near the Lake at 14,500 feet, stop to take some photo break and roam around for 5-10 mts, the Safari VTT engine does not start on ignition - and so we have a "situation"
.
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contd...
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Old 23rd March 2010, 18:59   #74
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wow.... read the travelogue in one stretch... no words simply dumbstruck.....Also you know where to break your travelogues.... just makes me glues for the next update with the " Situation". Thanks ADC, for another great travelogue.
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Old 23rd March 2010, 19:54   #75
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biting nails...
Why wouldn't it start now?!
And if it's not starting, then how is it going to climb snow covered BIG incline?!!
OMG.. please.. be quick.
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