Go Back   Team-BHP > Buckle Up > Travelogues


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 21st June 2010, 15:33   #61
Team-BHP Support
 
tsk1979's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: New Delhi
Posts: 22,953
Thanked: 15,646 Times
Default Day 7 : Nubra to Pangong - Plan B

Well LOG.... our case was a little more complicated. It was not some sheet missing in bridge, but the bridge was missing.
So as the BRO guy called "We do not have all day to waste hurry up", I shifted to 4L, and started moving.

The girder was a problem. It was not designed for cars. It has sharp sections. So we combined 2 girders, and on the narrow center hump the safari would ride.
Left tires would be on solid ground. Right tire would be on top if a narrow section
Imagine 2 girders like this |__||__|. On the center hump we have to go.
Edges were sharp, so to climb wooden plank was put.

And inch by inch I moved. If there is slight imbalance the girders will move!
Finally, after what seemed like eternity, we crossed. We were free. We had crossed the broken bridge!

I take 2 quick pics
Name:  904550999_yPWtdL.jpg
Views: 3229
Size:  225.1 KB

Name:  904554323_cLQaUL.jpg
Views: 2970
Size:  215.4 KB

In the first pic you can see the long gap. Only left side(when viwed from other side has around a meter of road.
the right side is a drop into the river!


The hurdle had been crossed, my hands were sweaty, but deep down we knew, the major obstacle had been crossed. Pangong was waiting.....
tsk1979 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 21st June 2010, 15:52   #62
BHPian
 
lordofgondor's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: UP 16
Posts: 936
Thanked: 155 Times
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by tsk1979 View Post
Well LOG.... our case was a little more complicated. It was not some sheet missing in bridge, but the bridge was missing.
Yup, the pic makes the thing clear. Definitely scary!
Good that the BRO guys were there man.
lordofgondor is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 21st June 2010, 16:26   #63
Senior - BHPian
 
MileCruncher's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Mumbai
Posts: 3,992
Thanked: 356 Times
Default

Tanveer, thats one adventurous journey man. Btw could you provide the map of the route you took?
MileCruncher is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 21st June 2010, 16:27   #64
BHPian
 
svaid's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: New Delhi
Posts: 218
Thanked: 5 Times
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by tsk1979 View Post
The hurdle had been crossed, my hands were sweaty, but deep down we knew, the major obstacle had been crossed. Pangong was waiting.....
@Tsk1979 - Thanks for sharing this wonderful experience with us. I always look forward to reading your travelogues. The reason primarily is
  • Each travelogue has a proper background/introduction and event sequence.
  • Every photograph is tied with wonderful narration which presents the reader with the exact perspective and the associated circumstances
  • Excellent quality of pictures ( no random or blurred/amateur or irrelevant images )
Thanks once again & Looking forward to rest of the story.....
svaid is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 21st June 2010, 16:41   #65
Team-BHP Support
 
tsk1979's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: New Delhi
Posts: 22,953
Thanked: 15,646 Times
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by lordofgondor View Post
Yup, the pic makes the thing clear. Definitely scary!
Good that the BRO guys were there man.
Yup. they were a life saver.
Quote:
Originally Posted by MileCruncher View Post
Tanveer, thats one adventurous journey man. Btw could you provide the map of the route you took?
Will do, at the end of every leg will put up the map
Quote:
Originally Posted by svaid View Post
@Tsk1979 - Thanks for sharing this wonderful experience with us. I always look forward to reading your travelogues. The reason primarily is
  • Each travelogue has a proper background/introduction and event sequence.
  • Every photograph is tied with wonderful narration which presents the reader with the exact perspective and the associated circumstances
  • Excellent quality of pictures ( no random or blurred/amateur or irrelevant images )
Thanks once again & Looking forward to rest of the story.....
Thanks svaid!
tsk1979 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 21st June 2010, 16:59   #66
Team-BHP Support
 
tsk1979's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: New Delhi
Posts: 22,953
Thanked: 15,646 Times
Default Day 7 : Nubra to Pangong - Tangste Ahoy!

The major hurdle was crossed. Only minor ones remained. In hindsight, they were not so minor. But after all this, driving on rocky landslides was cakewalk.
Terrain ranged from "Are you kidding me or what"
Name:  905009686_DHrjZL.jpg
Views: 2947
Size:  195.8 KB
To plan old rocky driving. gingerly, we treaded on the rocks, and avoided sharp stones. After all this, a sidewall puncture would be anti-climax!
Name:  905013012_2azEKL.jpg
Views: 3507
Size:  181.4 KB
and then, out of nowhere, came the Road. Yes A road. A proper road. With tar. Perfectly rolled. It did not last long, but it was there.
Name:  905014504_iFKLnL.jpg
Views: 2915
Size:  207.3 KB

I must have taken a million pics there I think. Such was the excitement. There was a proper road here. And we were riding it.
Name:  905020093_vTZVkL.jpg
Views: 2895
Size:  216.7 KB

There were bad sections, but they were few
Name:  905029372_c76LML.jpg
Views: 2809
Size:  158.2 KB

We started rising from our 3200 odd meters. Tangste sits at 4000+. Since there was no pass on the way, we would gently rise
Name:  904557957_xHHgDL.jpg
Views: 2809
Size:  156.8 KB

Far away the clouds huffed and puffed, probably venting on the Chang La, but for us it was sunny
Name:  904562017_5oDZwL.jpg
Views: 2775
Size:  158.3 KB

I shot the ORVM. Little did I know, I would be saying goodbye to it soon.
Name:  905032661_aqWQ2L.jpg
Views: 2777
Size:  114.9 KB

the going was mixed. Sometimes road, sometimes landslide. When land slides, you get down and clear the rocks.
Name:  905034910_uDhnLL.jpg
Views: 2805
Size:  136.7 KB

But all this was minor. We were steadily going towards Tangste. Pangong was waiting
At Shyok Village, there was a minor landslide being cleared, and that was the end it.
We crossed over, and I shot some birds of paradise
Name:  904571744_vn82rL.jpg
Views: 2968
Size:  195.5 KB

Name:  904575018_hgBGAL.jpg
Views: 2808
Size:  287.4 KB

Name:  904578407_vHvJKL.jpg
Views: 2767
Size:  320.6 KB

and soon we merged with the ChangLa road. We had arrived!
Name:  905230659_g8K9RL.jpg
Views: 2752
Size:  162.3 KB

At the permit stop before Tangste I checked the register, and there were just 3 names for today. Vaibhav, and co. Looks like Chang La was still holding the traffic. We would be along at Pangong
Name:  904581759_6snuJL.jpg
Views: 2743
Size:  244.4 KB

It was 12:35PM and we were at Tangste!

Time to reserve a room, wash our faces, have some tea... And then head over to the Pangong Lake!
Yay!

Our route for the day!
Ladakh and Changthang : The Wilderness Chronicles-diskit_pangong.jpg

We had done the new route.
We had skipped the Wari La and Chang La.
And we were going to Pangong.
And we still had 2 ORVMs
tsk1979 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 21st June 2010, 17:03   #67
Senior - BHPian
 
rkbharat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Gurgaon/New Delhi
Posts: 1,590
Thanked: 608 Times
Default

wonderful, this route looks very promising, hope they improve the condition this year and I do it in SX4 next year LoL

Just too good pics
rkbharat is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 21st June 2010, 19:18   #68
Senior - BHPian
 
MileCruncher's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Mumbai
Posts: 3,992
Thanked: 356 Times
Default

Tanveer, what was the distance you covered on this route between Diskit and Tangtse?

Whats your take on 2wd's making this route especially if there is no major landslide?
MileCruncher is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 21st June 2010, 20:21   #69
BHPian
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: New Delhi
Posts: 155
Thanked: 214 Times
Default

As usual, TSK has done it yet again... More power to you!



[quote=tsk1979;1940747]It is cold. Which is unusual because its June. Its not supposed to be cold in June, esp since the sun has broken out partially.
After days of intermittent rain, its sunny today.. Partially that is.
But for me, its cold. I am very cold. I am freezing. The air must be around 12-15 degrees C, but it does not matter.
rajeevn is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 21st June 2010, 21:57   #70
Team-BHP Support
 
tsk1979's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: New Delhi
Posts: 22,953
Thanked: 15,646 Times
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by rkbharat View Post
wonderful, this route looks very promising, hope they improve the condition this year and I do it in SX4 next year LoL

Just too good pics
Quote:
Originally Posted by MileCruncher View Post
Tanveer, what was the distance you covered on this route between Diskit and Tangtse?

Whats your take on 2wd's making this route especially if there is no major landslide?
This route is under construction. BRO workers were on in full swing making the road. A year from now it will be a proper road, much easier than Khardungla and changla. No issues for cars or 2wds.
But this time, since its a new route, many road sections were actually mountains cut through by bulldozers. Thats why the toughness.
Regarding distance, Diskit to Tangste was only 122kms
When route is done, its max 3.5 hours run.
Last year we went via Wari La route. It was 188kms

Quote:
Originally Posted by rajeevn View Post
As usual, TSK has done it yet again... More power to you!
thanks rajeev

Last edited by tsk1979 : 21st June 2010 at 21:59.
tsk1979 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 21st June 2010, 23:20   #71
Team-BHP Support
 
tsk1979's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: New Delhi
Posts: 22,953
Thanked: 15,646 Times
Default Day 7 : Pangong - The Accident!

Tangste is just an hour's drive from Pangong. Also, its the only place nearby where there is a BSNL tower.
Unfortunately the BSNL tower has run out of diesel. So we cannot make a call.
Actually, even when BSNL tower has diesel, you cannot make calls, because its BSNL, the best telephone network. They are trying to promote Yogic Telephatic communication, so their network rarely works in Ladakh.

Anyways, for the non Yogis, from this year they have provided DSPT(Direct Satellite Public telephones) in remote villages.
So near Pangong you can make a call for 2rs/minute.
Not bad for a satellite call.

Anyways, we drive to pangong, and reach the "Khushboo cafe" which is the Army run canteen. We are the only patrons. We give our order, head westwards to the phone, and give a ride to 3 armymen on the Safari footboards.

I take a nice pic. Infact the most colorful pic till now. There is no grey, except for the road.
The lake is blue, the grass is green, and the sky is puffy white and blue

And guess what, second and third pics with the FZ-35
Name:  905038095_jzfjsL.jpg
Views: 2663
Size:  197.2 KB

Name:  904584673_dY8miL.jpg
Views: 2694
Size:  168.0 KB

Name:  904587392_dhQzQL.jpg
Views: 2841
Size:  121.5 KB

As we eat, I hear multiple roars of common rail diesels. The circus has arrived. ChangLa must have opened. There is an entire deluge of taxis, coming to pangong at break neck speed. Maybe they are worried Pangong would run away. Well at their speed, anybody would

We also head searching for a secluded spot to enjoy the magnificient lake.
I see 4 innovas approaching at high speed. As you should do in ladakh, I park to one side to let the madmen pass.

2 pass by, and the 3rd one "Whack".
The White Elephants driver side ORVM is blown to smithereens.
The assembly is intact, but the glass is totally gone.

The cursed Taxi driver, instead of even slowing down, speeds up more, lest I chase him, but in this deluge of innova's he is lost forever.

I am left with a broken ORVM(I am now told I have to replace entire assembly for almost 5k or fit desi mirror inside(150rs) or go to Jama Masjid scrap market looking for ORVMs of accidental safaris). We curse the maniac silently, and start looking out for revenge from his fellow brethren(we get our revenge soon, but that story I better not divulge).

The mood is foul, and it feels sad, to lose an ORVM like this. Silently in my heart I curse the taxi driver and his vehicle very foul fortunes(which again I shall not divulge lest I be hounded by thought moral police), and feel slightly better.

Anyways, not much we can do, its time to go ahead and enjoy the lake and take pictures.

TO BE CONT........

Last edited by tsk1979 : 21st June 2010 at 23:25.
tsk1979 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 22nd June 2010, 07:27   #72
BHPian
 
unoczar's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Hyderabad
Posts: 400
Thanked: 80 Times
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by tsk1979 View Post
I am left with a broken ORVM(I am now told I have to replace entire assembly for almost 5k or fit desi mirror inside(150rs) or go to Jama Masjid scrap market looking for ORVMs of accidental safaris).

My swift's same mirror was broken by my cousin.. he din't tell me and fixed a desi (100rs)

i could make out instantly, and had to buy a new one. The original thing costs around 1500rs. but i got a china thing for half the price exactly 750rs. May be china's into TATA's too.. check it out.

china company: KOITO

* The mirror is working fine just like the original, it hasn't fallen off or anything (as told by some), but there's a little vibration while driving. But only an expert can make out the fake from the original.
unoczar is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 22nd June 2010, 09:41   #73
Team-BHP Support
 
tsk1979's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: New Delhi
Posts: 22,953
Thanked: 15,646 Times
Default

The drive near Shyok durbuk once roads get good
tsk1979 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 22nd June 2010, 10:43   #74
BHPian
 
ptushar's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Pune
Posts: 309
Thanked: 222 Times
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by tsk1979 View Post
They are trying to promote Yogic Telephatic communication, so their network rarely works in Ladakh.
Bet this will work better than their phone lines.
Anyways, the positive side to the story is that since it is a govt run machinery, they will atleast attempt to create a communication channel in such forgotten worlds. The run-behind-money companies will not find it a profit making venture to even attempt a mobile tower in these places.
Good to hear abot the sattelite phone seva. Nice job.

Quote:
Originally Posted by tsk1979 View Post
We also head searching for a secluded spot to enjoy the magnificient lake.
I see 4 innovas approaching at high speed. As you should do in ladakh, I park to one side to let the madmen pass.
Truly sorry to hear this. I know how it hurts. Lost one myself; though was not so expensive to replace.

Whenever I see such maniacs aproaching I deliberately drive such a way that it has to slow them down considerably. They are mad and get worse when this happens and honk as if they have been entrusted the holy task of waking god!!! But atleast it slows them down; then I go to the extreme left and let them pass. I get a lot of scowls and sometimes even sweet words thrown at me, but then I take solace in the fact that atleast they are not going to get me a visit to the nearest garage to get a mirror relaced or a scratch repaired.

Sad to note that in such beautiful places people are almost driving as if they want to get away from all this beauty around them.
ptushar is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 22nd June 2010, 11:12   #75
Team-BHP Support
 
tsk1979's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: New Delhi
Posts: 22,953
Thanked: 15,646 Times
Default Day 7: Pangong - Tranquility

What better way to cheer up than look at the blue lake. Its quite a sight. Majestic. Like a deep blue sea. Actually its a mini sea. Calling it a lake is an understatement.

Pangong has birds. but I am not a birder. So could not take many pics
Name:  905327061_AeGH2L.jpg
Views: 2576
Size:  255.9 KB

Those blue waters. I did not have a polarizer on this trip
Name:  905213110_6QhseL.jpg
Views: 2549
Size:  169.7 KB
It was windy, and the waves show it
Name:  905040692_88rMuL.jpg
Views: 2542
Size:  202.6 KB

The pesky taxis have arrived, and most of our spots are taken by tourists. However, there is one spot, which is sandy and secluded. Its so tricky that even 4x4s have a tough time(well I did). I was zooming through in 4H, even then the tire grooves are deep as sand gives away
Name:  905214080_DP9JrL.jpg
Views: 2530
Size:  178.8 KB

But this spot is worth it for the views
Name:  905215372_oGdXQL.jpg
Views: 2524
Size:  214.7 KB

the injured white elephant basking in the sun on hard ground.
Name:  905322033_q2GKSL.jpg
Views: 2639
Size:  210.2 KB

Time for the panny shots. Sometimes landscapes look great with tele
The colors of pangong
Name:  905589040_euugHL.jpg
Views: 2520
Size:  160.6 KB

Name:  905518920_4ixhyL.jpg
Views: 2534
Size:  157.7 KB

The mountains far away
Name:  905520832_rd5ntL.jpg
Views: 2506
Size:  143.2 KB

However, its not just the lake which is lovely, even the snow clad lofty peaks have their charm
Name:  905562972_Cj9WJL.jpg
Views: 2510
Size:  256.1 KB

The winds up there
Name:  905545317_rtaB8L.jpg
Views: 2494
Size:  109.1 KB

The lake again
Name:  905565129_tvve7L.jpg
Views: 2630
Size:  126.9 KB

TO BE CONT.........
tsk1979 is offline   (1) Thanks Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Polo GT TDI Chronicles: Ladakh and beyond! 5543 km, 13 days, 8 states, 2 souls & 1 car! Gannu_1 Travelogues 76 4th May 2016 19:34
Self-Drive Expedition Travel-Ladakh and cold desert Changthang in "off-season" Oct 10 adc Travelogues 232 28th April 2013 12:48
The Ladakh Chronicles - 5 years of soul searching in the Himalayas! amolpol Travelogues 46 11th March 2013 22:41
Reflecting on Driving Addictions - Bangalore to Spiti and Changthang Coooolcat21 Travelogues 236 21st August 2012 15:25


All times are GMT +5.5. The time now is 14:02.

Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Team-BHP.com
Proudly powered by E2E Networks