Go Back   Team-BHP > Buckle Up > Travelogues


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 22nd June 2010, 18:15   #91
Senior - BHPian
 
pulsar56's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Singapore
Posts: 1,172
Thanked: 319 Times
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by lordofgondor View Post
Let's hope the terrain stays the same, rugged and inhospitable at least for the next few years.
Amen to that!

Make it another 3-4 years so that I can reach there!
pulsar56 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 22nd June 2010, 18:16   #92
Team-BHP Support
 
tsk1979's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 23,116
Thanked: 16,421 Times
Default Day 8: Chushul and Rezang La - Lest we Forget

Chushul. The name is very common. Few have been there. Very few. Few people live there.
From a factual point of view chushul is just another border village on the china road. But there is a lot more to any place than just facts.
Chushul and Rezang La are the places which nobody should forget. For its here countless of our soldiers died in the 1962 war.
They repelled waves after waves of Chinese Soldiers, and were finally overrun. They fought till the last man. Nobody lived to tell the tale. But some tales do not need telling. The blood on the ground speaks. And this region has seen a lot of blood.

As we moved on towards chushul, the vibrant colors gave away to the the desert browns
We crossed a minor pass
Name:  906355685_SrrdDL.jpg
Views: 4758
Size:  171.6 KB

The Changthang desert
Name:  906340618_aLDDvL.jpg
Views: 2644
Size:  99.0 KB

Kiang the wild a.s.s
Name:  906978031_BtVxKL.jpg
Views: 4820
Size:  277.2 KB

Chushul village was mostly closed. They were not expecting tourists, and today, 4 cars had come. One ours, and 3 scorpios carrying tourists from Chd and Bombay etc.,
Interestingly, even Chushul has a satellite phone STD boot(DSPT)

The first stop is the Chushul War memorial. While most literature is about Major Shaitan Singh and his stand at Rezang La, even the battle at Chushul was no less fierce
Ladakh and Changthang : The Wilderness Chronicles-906342680_anrtoxl.jpg

Ladakh and Changthang : The Wilderness Chronicles-906342642_rjm5ixl.jpg

Ladakh and Changthang : The Wilderness Chronicles-906339315_ahzxkxl.jpg

After a few minutes there, we moved on.
In a desert, water bodies and rivers become a source of life. It was no different in Changthang, probably one of the coldest deserts in the world
Name:  906905977_vGvSzL.jpg
Views: 2631
Size:  151.4 KB

Name:  906902332_KWcYSL.jpg
Views: 3053
Size:  187.7 KB

Name:  906346665_n4CiCL.jpg
Views: 2582
Size:  160.1 KB

On the way we are stopped by passing armymen for checking of permits. this is a sensitive zone, and unlike other touristy spots where checking of permits is just a formality, here its done seriously. Thankfully, I have marked all the villages on the route!
Finally around quarter past 1 we are at Rezang La. The site of the famous stand of Major Shaitan Singh and his men
Rezang La - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Name:  906349926_5tr37L.jpg
Views: 2723
Size:  163.4 KB

Name:  906361030_85PJTL.jpg
Views: 2906
Size:  201.5 KB

Name:  906355941_bMCq5L.jpg
Views: 2684
Size:  74.3 KB
How can a Man die Better than facing Fearful Odds,
For the Ashes of His Fathers and the Temples of His Gods,
To the sacred memory of the Heroes of Rezang La,
114 Martyrs of 13 Kumaon who fought to the Last Man,
Last Round, Against Hordes of Chinese on 18 November 1962.
Built by All Ranks 13th Battalion, The Kumaon Regiment.


The names of those fallen
Name:  906362404_qkBThXL.jpg
Views: 2620
Size:  111.1 KB

After this we move on towards Hanle.. The road was waiting
Name:  906351686_UEARKL.jpg
Views: 4308
Size:  88.5 KB

TO BE CONT......

Last edited by tsk1979 : 22nd June 2010 at 18:24.
tsk1979 is offline   (1) Thanks Reply With Quote
Old 22nd June 2010, 18:21   #93
Team-BHP Support
 
tsk1979's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 23,116
Thanked: 16,421 Times
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by cool_dube View Post
Got it! I remember now that we did NOT pass Shyok when we did Chang-La - Pangong.

So the route that you took was essentially all the way along Shyok river, right? When did this route come into commission?
Actually this route came into commission in May. However bridge broke, and route went out of commission. But with bridge made, it will become a proper route
Quote:
Originally Posted by lordofgondor View Post
Why oh why did Pangong end so soon, request you to post some more pics of it.

Indeed you have seen & thankfully now shown us what very few have seen. Let's hope the terrain stays the same, rugged and inhospitable at least for the next few years.
LOL I have posted so many pics!
Quote:
Originally Posted by BolBolero View Post
Hi Tanveer,
Superb travelogue sir! The photos and the accompanying text makes for very interesting and informative reading.
I am leaving for Ladakh on the 4th of July from Bombay via Srinagar. I have the Zanskar Valley, The Nubra Valley, PangongTso, TsoMoriri in my itinerary. I will be returning via Manali.
Going through your travelogue, I am very much tempted to follow your route from Deskit to PangongTso. But since this is my first time around these parts and I don't have a 4wd vehicle, I probably should not take the risk of attempting this route. Maybe next year, when the road is more or less more done up or I have a 4wd vehicle!
Am very much hooked to this thread, and waiting for more of your photos and write up.
You have a bolero? In that case no issues.
There were 2 trouble areas
1. Landslide. -> BRO men said they will clear it in 2-3 days. So by 4th July it should be okay
2. Broken bridge -> Again 2 weeks was the time frame. Work was on at war footing.
So do take this route.
If you cannot make it, backtrack 5kms, and head over to Wari La and then go to Pangong. You will lose 3 hours atmost
Quote:
Originally Posted by pulsar56 View Post
Amen to that!

Make it another 3-4 years so that I can reach there!
LOL
tsk1979 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 22nd June 2010, 21:51   #94
Team-BHP Support
 
tsk1979's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 23,116
Thanked: 16,421 Times
Default Day 8: Chushul to Loma

As we set out towards Tsaga, we saw some weird looking "structures". Probably Changpa religious symbols or something. Made of horns of dead animals
Name:  906360122_BJ9TxL.jpg
Views: 2473
Size:  230.9 KB

The terrain was same as before. Wherever there was water, there was life
Name:  906360405_ch7MVL.jpg
Views: 2370
Size:  209.5 KB
But most of the road was dry dead sand. Left or right? Well they say, go right, because left may take you to china!
Name:  906359099_NCXNsL.jpg
Views: 4269
Size:  96.6 KB
It was finally around 1400, we reached Chhagga La or Tsaga La. This comes just before Chhagga village
Name:  906365477_bC6BZL.jpg
Views: 4235
Size:  160.2 KB

Name:  906368039_8am4FL.jpg
Views: 2358
Size:  158.3 KB
The road had been bumpy and dusty
Name:  906368956_5S3zNL.jpg
Views: 2337
Size:  155.3 KB

We asked the soldier manning the checkpost about road conditions, and he informed us that little ahead, road would get better.

Well, better it did not get, it just went different.
On a blood red road, we marched onto hanle!
Name:  906385586_3CNHDL.jpg
Views: 4281
Size:  172.6 KB

Name:  906370412_QstC8L.jpg
Views: 2348
Size:  168.6 KB
Note, they have electricity here!
Name:  906370421_A2fCjL.jpg
Views: 2323
Size:  169.5 KB

We also spotted what was probably our first real "Wild Yak"
Name:  906905372_y4BBQM.jpg
Views: 2483
Size:  161.9 KB

As for the road... Well it was bumpy and rocky, with no possiblity of alternate trails, but if you look far enough, you will know its getting better
Name:  906370873_xwry9L.jpg
Views: 2291
Size:  163.4 KB

Finally around 3pm we reached Loma Post
Name:  906378797_myhjAL.jpg
Views: 2288
Size:  150.8 KB

It was an ITBP post, and they were very happy to have guests. We had delicious tea, and heard their stories, how they tell back home in haryana and Punjab about using "Bukhari" in June, and how their folks express disbelief.
After all it was 45 in the plains!

One of the guys there had tooth problem, so my wife held a mini dental exam. The poor guys do not have any dentist in the armed forces. Only doctors are there, and for dental treatment they have to wait till they are posted in some big city!

Such is life of the men who guard our borders.

Anyways, it was late afternoon, and Hanle was waiting, just a couple of hours away!

TO BE CONT........
tsk1979 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 22nd June 2010, 21:57   #95
Newbie
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Pune
Posts: 14
Thanked: 12 Times
Default

An unimpeachable narrative, with stupendous visual treats, can’t wait to read on....
rajat60 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 22nd June 2010, 22:19   #96
BHPian
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Bangalore
Posts: 67
Thanked: 12 Times
Default

Amazing thread; I am glued to it Keep going dude... A dream come true for any travel lover. The amazing snaps portray heaven to us sitting far frm it.
harishF1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 22nd June 2010, 22:44   #97
Team-BHP Support
 
tsk1979's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 23,116
Thanked: 16,421 Times
Default Day 8: To Hanle!

After Loma, the 80 odd kms are wonderful tarmac, barring the last 20, which are a maze of tracks. You can follow the "road", but then you will loose all the nuts and bolts in your vehicle, as well all your joints, such is the quality.
So best bet is to follow the offroad tracks.

Anyways, we will cross that bridge when we come to it
Name:  906380012_YcQaFL.jpg
Views: 2279
Size:  172.4 KB

The tarred section
Name:  906393271_Qfh3xL.jpg
Views: 2263
Size:  113.1 KB

Name:  906393510_tmdTjL.jpg
Views: 2262
Size:  117.0 KB

Thankfully, the sun was shining brightly
Name:  906386807_qihKTL.jpg
Views: 2249
Size:  118.9 KB

The scenera. Hanle area of Changthang has its own charm
Name:  906906748_oGNkqM.jpg
Views: 2268
Size:  79.6 KB

Name:  906905584_PukfcL.jpg
Views: 2269
Size:  154.7 KB

And then the Road ended. It was dir track time now
Name:  906389586_mgutvL.jpg
Views: 2222
Size:  142.7 KB

20kms to go, on the sand
I decided to use the Panny
Name:  906978876_NSjSPL.jpg
Views: 2267
Size:  156.8 KB

Name:  906917077_fM49HL.jpg
Views: 2258
Size:  146.6 KB

The red mountain. Only in Hanle
Name:  906935802_Fj83kL.jpg
Views: 2220
Size:  143.1 KB
The scenery
Name:  906932935_cX73fL.jpg
Views: 2243
Size:  133.6 KB

To play spoilsport, the clouds started gathering again. I was worried that it will be a repeat, of last year, when I did not get any stars
Name:  906391187_pNtgPL.jpg
Views: 4057
Size:  137.4 KB

Lets see what fate has in store tonight. Clear or cloudy?
Name:  906395559_YBLosL.jpg
Views: 4055
Size:  146.4 KB

A shot of the white elephant
Name:  906396057_YMRHZL.jpg
Views: 2234
Size:  134.6 KB

That Hanle touch to the scenery. Its a place which is out of this world.
Name:  906394793_bMCrLL.jpg
Views: 4044
Size:  116.8 KB

Prayer flags atop a mountain
Name:  906981530_455H7M.jpg
Views: 2195
Size:  94.7 KB

On and on we marched. Hanle was coming. The weather would hopefully hold. The third leg of our changthang loop was going to be completed

TO BE CONT.........
tsk1979 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 22nd June 2010, 23:31   #98
BHPian
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Noida
Posts: 71
Thanked: 5 Times
Default

Mind blowing photos and places which you have visited Tanveer. Amazed to such a beauty in our own country. Hope it remains the same and doesn't get spoiled by mad tourist rush.
naman07 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 23rd June 2010, 00:03   #99
Team-BHP Support
 
tsk1979's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 23,116
Thanked: 16,421 Times
Default Day 8: Hanle!

And finally, hanle was near. you could smell it!
Name:  906962412_oQckJL.jpg
Views: 2210
Size:  161.5 KB

Name:  906394655_PahzYL.jpg
Views: 2194
Size:  77.6 KB

The sun fights the clouds
Name:  906398970_yiDaRL.jpg
Views: 2198
Size:  70.4 KB

Here we are.... We see the monastery
Name:  906436300_ro2WuL.jpg
Views: 2200
Size:  127.8 KB
I don't think you can see it though. Lemme help you with the panny
Name:  906932167_uzYT7L.jpg
Views: 2215
Size:  148.5 KB

We are at Hanle!
Name:  906976626_HtkyZL.jpg
Views: 2193
Size:  118.9 KB

A shot of the telescope from far away. In local lingo, the place is refered to has "Astrophysics".
Name:  906961642_mgRgkL.jpg
Views: 2243
Size:  160.5 KB

the Road through the village
Name:  906401935_yc5dHL.jpg
Views: 2150
Size:  116.1 KB

We dump our luggage and stuff. Precious time is wasted. Unknown to us, the nitrogen ritual has taken place at 5pm. We reach up there little above after 5.
The sky is clear now, and I don't get the awesome shadows which are so hanle, but I am happy. Clear skies is what we want
Name:  906404490_jzTvXL.jpg
Views: 2188
Size:  202.2 KB

Name:  906983486_LgDNpL.jpg
Views: 2194
Size:  173.1 KB

A couple of random landscapes from the top
Name:  906404807_PffpXL.jpg
Views: 2184
Size:  166.8 KB

Name:  906976757_NtEtkL.jpg
Views: 2158
Size:  195.4 KB

Today the dome is open. View from inside is something!
Name:  906404255_3Y4SrXL.jpg
Views: 2165
Size:  78.9 KB

Name:  906408582_vs4bdL.jpg
Views: 2141
Size:  47.9 KB

Its getting very very cold. Sun has not set, but its freezing already. We take a shot drive looking for kiangs, but do not find any. The cold has driven them away.

Time to go back to the guest house of the observatory, and have dinner. Food is simple. but amazing.
Ideally, its good to sleep early, but I spend some time online. Connected to the internet after days.
My primary motive, to check on Baralacha la. "It opened for 2 days" is the news.
And closed again.
What a spoil sport.

Well we will think of that when we get back. For now, its was time to prepare for the clearest skies in the world.
Before that, we decide to dump 30 liters of diesel in the tank, so that we would be carrying just 12 odd liters in the jerrycan.

After that..... the starts come out to play..........
tsk1979 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 23rd June 2010, 00:09   #100
Team-BHP Support
 
tsk1979's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 23,116
Thanked: 16,421 Times
Default Day 8: The night... only in Hanle

Many people wonder, why on earth would somebody make a telescope in the middle of nowhere, in such harsh conditions?
Well the answer lies in the skies here.
Hanle has one of the cleanest skies in the world, and hardly gets any precipitation. Its another matter it had snowed here the day before, but normally, its supposed to be dry, and very cold. Even vapor levels in atmosphere are low, leading to exceptionally clear skies.
And where there is a clear sky, there is a tripod.

Here, I present you the skies of Hanle
A long exposure
Name:  906409542_g5eZbL.jpg
Views: 2396
Size:  89.4 KB
And three short ones(100 seconds only)
Name:  906412622_rooftL.jpg
Views: 2392
Size:  146.5 KB

Name:  906412240_ZGkxGL.jpg
Views: 2352
Size:  125.3 KB

Name:  906412273_9VabbL.jpg
Views: 2301
Size:  98.6 KB

I almost froze to death shooting these. It was -2 degree C, and its not even midnight!

Time to go to bed. Tomorrow, we really really do not know where we are going, why we are going, and how we are going...........
tsk1979 is offline   (1) Thanks Reply With Quote
Old 23rd June 2010, 00:16   #101
Team-BHP Support
 
tsk1979's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 23,116
Thanked: 16,421 Times
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by rajat60 View Post
An unimpeachable narrative, with stupendous visual treats, canít wait to read on....
Quote:
Originally Posted by harishF1 View Post
Amazing thread; I am glued to it Keep going dude... A dream come true for any travel lover. The amazing snaps portray heaven to us sitting far frm it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by naman07 View Post
Mind blowing photos and places which you have visited Tanveer. Amazed to such a beauty in our own country. Hope it remains the same and doesn't get spoiled by mad tourist rush.
Thanks for your comments people. I do not think that the wild regions of ladakh will get mad tourist rush any time soon.
tsk1979 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 23rd June 2010, 02:06   #102
BHPian
 
Anandg's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Bangalore
Posts: 293
Thanked: 15 Times
Default

Wow.. your pictures are superb. They even beat swiss alps. I really wonder if our neighbours forget differences and give way to planned tourism in this region, europe would be marooned. Good that they have not done this in one way though, as, if the growth is unplanned(see what leachers have done to other beautiful hill stations in india), this heaven would loose all its beauty and virility.
I heard an interesting fact from 1 Armyman who happens to be my good friend as well. They say army is planting saplings and trees here. And the effect here is so immediate that it has started to change climate at some places in a small but visible way. It now rains at some places it never did before. Hopefully nature accepts this kind human gesture and does it for good.

Last edited by Anandg : 23rd June 2010 at 02:07.
Anandg is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 23rd June 2010, 04:11   #103
Senior - BHPian
 
govigov's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Cochin!!!!!
Posts: 1,375
Thanked: 530 Times
Default

hi TSK,
what is this nitrogen ritual that has taken place at 5pm?
govigov is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 23rd June 2010, 08:36   #104
Team-BHP Support
 
tsk1979's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 23,116
Thanked: 16,421 Times
Default

5pm they put liquid nitrogen in the CCD of the telescope.
I took pics last year
Name:  655277101_tF99aL.jpg
Views: 2111
Size:  131.9 KB
tsk1979 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 23rd June 2010, 08:53   #105
Team-BHP Support
 
tsk1979's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 23,116
Thanked: 16,421 Times
Default Our journey so far

We had come from Pangong to Hanle, via the shortest route possible. Only around 215kms!
Name:  pangonghanle.jpg
Views: 2142
Size:  60.6 KB

Our complete journey till now
Name:  lehhunderpangonghanle.jpg
Views: 2203
Size:  56.0 KB
tsk1979 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Polo GT TDI Chronicles: Ladakh and beyond! 5543 km, 13 days, 8 states, 2 souls & 1 car! Gannu_1 Travelogues 76 4th May 2016 19:34
Self-Drive Expedition Travel-Ladakh and cold desert Changthang in "off-season" Oct 10 adc Travelogues 232 28th April 2013 12:48
The Ladakh Chronicles - 5 years of soul searching in the Himalayas! amolpol Travelogues 46 11th March 2013 22:41
Reflecting on Driving Addictions - Bangalore to Spiti and Changthang Coooolcat21 Travelogues 236 21st August 2012 15:25


All times are GMT +5.5. The time now is 19:00.

Copyright ©2000 - 2018, Team-BHP.com
Proudly powered by E2E Networks