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Old 15th July 2010, 12:07   #16
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Very exciting travelogue. I can see that the trip on bike is an entirely different experience. Thanks for sharing the small details too.

I am sure you people must have had good time with the group. Of course, you people could help each other out which was needed as I see.

What all facilities they have inside the camp and camping area?
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Old 15th July 2010, 12:26   #17
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Its my Long time wish to Visit Leh on a Bike.

Well don't have a bullet to do it. I don't know how good a pulsar 150 will do in those terrains.

BTW did you carried fuel with you on that "Next Petrol Pump after 360 kms" road?
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Old 15th July 2010, 12:52   #18
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Really need to appreciate your efforts for doing this trip all alone esp your wife. Many times i have tried to persuade my wife to do such a trip, but all in vain

Awaiting for the rest of the trip to unfold
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Old 15th July 2010, 12:59   #19
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Amazing trip! fingers pointing upwards (stars).

I guess it was possible coz of your wife, kudos to her!

Bring it on!

@Sid, your Pulsar will do just fine, there are loads of folks who have done it on numerous rides, me (Yezdi Roadking, RD 350) , Once Paraj Shukla did it on Kinetic honda (read it on 60kph),

Just be brave, prep the bike really well, put a plan and do it!

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Old 15th July 2010, 13:30   #20
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@ Taurenbull: Camp has very basic facilities. Inside they have bedding, pillows etc. In camp area, there is restaurant, but not even toilet facilities - all the open area is for that purpose. The luxury tents, I believe, have toilet facilities, even hot water for bath etc, but luxury tents are only at Sarchu, beyond this again mainly its open areas till Leh. At Pang, they have covered toilets but anyone would prefer using open areas looking at the state they are in.

@Sidd25: Pulsar 150 would do just fine as long as there is no pillion. As a matter of fact, it is even better than bulls at time due to lesser weight - crossing stream etc are easier and so is pulling it up in case of fall :-)
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Old 15th July 2010, 14:39   #21
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Default Day 4: AMS attack

Woke up in the morning with heavy head. After some time I starting vomiting. Initially thought of it because of the food that we had last evening but it was not to be. Did not eat anything as I was vomiting everything, even diamox tablet did not stay inside for more than a minute. Was feeling weak but still we continued on after others were finished with the breakfast. We had not gone more than 5 km, when I had our first fall. The bike just skidded on the road and both me and MJ followed it sliding. The riding jacket saved my elbow (where the jacket got torn) and legs and behind saved by jeans and raincoat lowers (I wore raincoat lowers as it provided added protection against cold wind). Wife was saved by leather jacket and jeans. However, we lost the right side RVM which is not a very good thing for me as I am a major user of RVM be it bike or car. Anyways, we went ahead with my broken pride but now my confidence level was down in dump as I could feel that my reflexes were slower. I was now intentionally riding towards the mountain side as any mistake while riding in valley side could have been disastrous. We again had a near fall. Then around 22 Km from Pang, I wanted a break and while I was continuing vomiting, others caught hold of a sumo driver who agreed to take me and MJ to Pang to Army medical camp. He even agreed for his support staff to ride my bike till Pang. He was God sent and so were the others in the Group. Without them, I would have contnued without asking for help, which was not the right thing to do as I could make out from my slow relflexes. On the way, the driver even stopped an army medical jeep. The army personnel gave me a couple of injections to stop the vomiting. We reached Pang and I was taken to the army hospital where they found that my oxygen level was early 50 against atleast 80+. They gave me oxygen number of times, even fed me & MJ. Was there for a while and had good conversation with them. Was informed that they undergo a 7 day acclimitization camp before being sent so high. They also told that water and food are source of oxygen and should be taken periodically. Also, about a case of truck driver who's oxygen level was almost zero when he reached hospital but was saved. I was beginning to feel better but any plans of going further were not entertained. By now, even others inlcuding MJ had started feeling effects of AMS and it was decided to take a halt at Pang itself. Others made arrangement of stay (tent), we took a large area having place for 8 people between 5 of us (Rs 800). This tent was owned and organized by Sonam who was gem of a person, very caring. The guy who bought us here was taking a group of people who were riding bicycles to leh (intermittently). The guy who had organized this tour had an accident a few days back and had fractured his leg. The same driver had taken him to Leh hospital.

On way to Pang
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Anyways, we all rested througout the afternoon and in evening I again went for oxygen check up and replenishment. Now my wife had started vomiting and she was also given injections. Her oxygen level was though fine. For dinner we had maggi in which sonam added some vegetables - it was quite nice. Plus having known that we should all eat and drink properly, we did eat properly.

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I took half a tablet of diamox at ~4:30 at night when I started feeling heaviness in my head. Had a good sleep and woke up fresh.
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Old 15th July 2010, 14:43   #22
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Motomaniac: Salutes to you and wife for taking this adventure on, I know how difficult the road is. Doing this on a bike needs real guts and energy.

We did Leh from 16th to 30th, I was hit by AMS and know what it feels like, but did not take Diamox, wanted to acclamatize naturaly, I did after 3 days.

Thanks for the photos and exciting story, truly inspiring ...... looking forward for more.

--Ramky
=======

Last edited by ramkya1 : 15th July 2010 at 14:49.
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Old 16th July 2010, 07:24   #23
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Lovely triplog. Its a bit cute - your helmeted pics! I'm sure once your wife uploads the pics on facebook - your next ladakh trip will ONLY be in car.

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Old 16th July 2010, 07:47   #24
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@ Motomaniac: Hats off to you and your wife for making this journey. As it is its a hard journey but on bike its a different ball game all together.

As regards to Diamox, we had started the course from Srinagar itself and thats why didn't get attacked by AMS.
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Old 16th July 2010, 10:30   #25
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MM, nice writeup and snaps. I am hooked on!
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Old 16th July 2010, 12:45   #26
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Firstly, I am shocked that no toilet facilities available in the tents. It could be problematic and embarrassing for the female companion specially. On top of that its not hygienic.

That was a terrible AMS attack and a bad fall. A bad day for you I suppose.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MileCruncher View Post
As regards to Diamox, we had started the course from Srinagar itself and thats why didn't get attacked by AMS.
+1 to that. For a better effect you have to take it before rather than after the symptoms start appearing. When we went to NE last year, we would just take one or half tablet in the morning and no problems to any member at all.
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Old 16th July 2010, 12:50   #27
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kool !! greatt travelogue, though I would never do sucha travelogue in life, specially on a 2 wheeler. I went to dehradoon once with a friend on his bullet, and when i came back, even the highly cushioned sofa felt vibrating.
by the way, how much did you pay to Indian railways for bringing the bike to Delhi ?

hats off to you guys !!
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Old 16th July 2010, 13:15   #28
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What an awsome trip! This travelogue has really been an inspiration for me to take a trip to Leh very soon.

Brilliant and a big salute to three of you.

And we all are hooked on to this thread and keep 'em coming!

Wish you all the very best!
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Old 16th July 2010, 13:39   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Motomaniac View Post
On the way, the driver even stopped an army medical jeep. The army personnel gave me a couple of injections to stop the vomiting. We reached Pang and I was taken to the army hospital where they found that my oxygen level was early 50 against atleast 80+. They gave me oxygen number of times, even fed me & MJ. Was there for a while and had good conversation with them. Was informed that they undergo a 7 day acclimitization camp before being sent so high. They also told that water and food are source of oxygen and should be taken periodically.
7 days acclimatisation is true, when my dad got posted to Siachin, they had to stop at Nimmu for 7 days. Indian Army does a great job at such forward locations and in such harsh conditions. Apart from manning our borders they also take care of the needs of the locals, and they just dont do it because they are ordered to do, they do it with their heart. Heart felt thank you to them.

Happy to know that you were feeling better when you woke up, I hope that was the last of your and your Mrs AMS troubles and you guys were fighting fit for the rst of the journey.

Please carry on.

, guys I propose that we all carry small small souveniers for the army guys/ helpfull locals when we undertake a Leh trip as in all the TL's there have been instances when someone or the other has got help from the Army/ locals who have gone out of their way to help. These small gifts would not cost much but would definitely be a great gesture from us.

regards
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Old 16th July 2010, 14:36   #30
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Default Day 5: Return of the grand master :-)

Again woke up decently early (~6 AM) but after a pretty good sleep. Same was the case with others and all of us were feeling good. Sharad enquired about health and was happy to note that tone of my voice itself conveyed that I was back. Yesterday, when we were down in dumps, Sharad / Vasu had checked with the driver if he could take us and bike to leh and even we were thinking that if our health does not improve, we would take the flight back from Leh and book the bike in some transport. However, that all seemed things of past as both me and MJ were feeling great and wanted to continue the ride.

Had a liesurly breakfast (thing learned from Sharad/Vasu/Arvind as earlier we used to take late breakfast / lunch / dinner to accomodate number of kms to be done, but after understanding the importance of food at such altitutes and also the importance of enjoying every bit of the journey). We paid the driver and his assistant some money for all the help which was accepted after lot of effort. When I had started the journey, lot of people asked me why did I not wait to join a Group before starting, I always felt that I am a firm believer in human kindness, more so in such circumstances and places which are still not corrupted by greed, competition, money making etc and I was proved right with all the help that I got from people who helped me during water crossings, people like Sharad / Vasu / Arvind who could have felt that me getting ill would interupt their plans, but never felt that way, the sumo driver who helped us, the army personnel who took great care of everyone who come to them. I was humbled but happy that their are still many such people.
Anyways, we got on with the ride, the plan being to reach wherever we can without stressing us too much as others in the Group had lots of time in their hands and did not want to strech themselves. After what they had done for us, there was no question that we would abide by their decision. However, both me and MJ were wishing that they choose to reach Leh.
The only challenge was Taglangla pass which was at 17582 ft. It was decided that we would not spend too much time there and would descend after taking some pics. Before that were the Moore plains which to our dissapointment, we felt that they looked better in pics than real life.
From Pang after ~90 Km, the road is like heaven and we reached leh by ~3 PM. We stayed at a Hotel called Buddha Gardens which was recommended by the same driver as the bicycle gang was also scheduled to stay there from next day. Plus, everyone wanted to stay away from the market (this place is ~8 Km before Leh). It was nice place. Me & MJ took a double room while others took a room for 3 persons. The rooms were nice and cosy (Rs 500 per night). Others had plans to occupy the room for longer period while for us it was only for two days.

The taxi wallah who helped us
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This 76 year old lady was travelling with the bicycle gang
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Leaving Pang
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Moore Plains
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Taglangla
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With us again being in network range, called home to inform of our well being. Had a leisurly bath and even more leisurly dinner over discussion on various things. These guys were lot of fun. Others wanted to have a free day tomorrow to just cater to bike servicing and permits (they were planning to visit almost all areas closeby) while for us it was just Khardungla that we wanted to do the next day and ofcourse bike servicing (I wanted RVM, solution to dripping oil plus my front shocker was leaking from one side).

Had a contended sleep on achieving Mission Leh.
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