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Old 6th September 2010, 12:51   #91
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@Bolero, exciting TL I was hooked through your narration and pics. No matter how many times you cross Rohtang, Its Different!

@Wanderernomad - Bingo
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Best bet is to deflate by about 2-4 psi and then do it slowly. But only if you are carrying a pump to re inflate
I agree with you, deflating is the best bet. And I find OEM tyre perform better, though didnt attempt the route but some places around Kotkhai, I found this technique useful. While I was scratching my head, my dad got out of the car with the valve key and did that, I was flabbergasted at the sight and wanted to talk him out of it, then he shared his story through zojila in 1963. Got me all cooled out, took the wheels after 15 yrs and went smooth as butter through the rubble and slush at puny 3 kmph. Oh, he put 2 big rocks in in the boot, since it was me and him only.
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Old 6th September 2010, 21:33   #92
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@Rudra,
End October may be a little late in the season from what I gathered from the Hotel staff at Kaza. They shut down at the end of September is what I was told! There is a hotel at Dhankar behind the new monastery, not sure when it closes though.

@wanderernomad,
AH Parwanoo, and that was the place where my journey to Dev Bhoomi ended!

@tigerranch,
Thanks Kishore and you are most welcome. Lets plan something for 2011.

@rkbharat,
Thanks. Hotel Khangsar is in Kaza. Not very sure if it will remain open in Mid October. The main monasteries around Kaza, would be Kye, Dhankar and Tabo. Ofcourse all the villages have monasteries too, but these are the main monasteries. Kaza, Rangrik, Nako have monasteries too.

@tsk1979, i guess we were lucky, in that we managed to almost drive upto the lake, i.e. around a km from the lake. But walking that last km. at that altitude was a task, and you say you walked 3 kms. But then the view and the splendor of the lake is worth it wouldn't you say! We also hardly encountered any tourists, maybe because Rohtang was closed and not many people would take the trouble of driving all through Kinnaur and Spiti.

@Ushuaia, thanks buddy.
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Old 6th September 2010, 21:53   #93
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Yeah, am from where I either welcome the visitors or extract a promise that they will all return very soon to my State. Digging up the road, not good at all. Its not easy walking at those heights plus add the uncertainty of the weather. But we as tourists should be more careful about littering in such places.

Last edited by wanderernomad : 6th September 2010 at 21:54.
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Old 7th September 2010, 16:15   #94
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Day 11: 14th July 2010

Tibetan Inscription on the mountain opposite Tabo Monastery
Rohtang Didn't Let me Pass; Spiti & Chandratal It Was!-0085.jpg
Chorten at New Tabo Monastery<br /> <a href=Rohtang Didn't Let me Pass; Spiti & Chandratal It Was!-0068d.jpg <a href=Rohtang Didn't Let me Pass; Spiti & Chandratal It Was!-0069.jpg <a href=Rohtang Didn't Let me Pass; Spiti & Chandratal It Was!-0070.jpg
Old Tabo Monastery<br /> <a href=Rohtang Didn't Let me Pass; Spiti & Chandratal It Was!-0071a.jpg <b><i>g.Ser-khang</i></b> (The Golden Temple)<br /> <a href=Rohtang Didn't Let me Pass; Spiti & Chandratal It Was!-0072.jpg <b><i>Brom-ston Lha-khang C'enpo</i></b> (The Large Temple of Dromton)<br /> <a href=Rohtang Didn't Let me Pass; Spiti & Chandratal It Was!-0073.jpg
Prayer Hall and Residence of Monks<br /> <a href=Rohtang Didn't Let me Pass; Spiti & Chandratal It Was!-0074.jpg <b><i>g.Ser-khang</i></b> (The Golden Temple)<br /> <a href=Rohtang Didn't Let me Pass; Spiti & Chandratal It Was!-0077.jpg <b><i>dkyil-hkhor-khang</i></b> (The Mystic Mandala Temple)<br /> <a href=Rohtang Didn't Let me Pass; Spiti & Chandratal It Was!-0078.jpg
Chortens in the Old Monastery compound<br /> <a href=Rohtang Didn't Let me Pass; Spiti & Chandratal It Was!-0080.jpg <a href=Rohtang Didn't Let me Pass; Spiti & Chandratal It Was!-0081.jpg <a href=Rohtang Didn't Let me Pass; Spiti & Chandratal It Was!-0082.jpg <a href=Rohtang Didn't Let me Pass; Spiti & Chandratal It Was!-0083a.jpg <b><i>Byans-Pa Chen-po Lha-khang</i></b> (The Bodhisattva Maitreya Temple)<br /> <a href=Rohtang Didn't Let me Pass; Spiti & Chandratal It Was!-0087.jpg <b><i>Brom-ston Lha-khang</i></b> (The temple of Dromton)<br /> <a href=Rohtang Didn't Let me Pass; Spiti & Chandratal It Was!-0088.jpg
Tabo Monastery<br /> <a href=Rohtang Didn't Let me Pass; Spiti & Chandratal It Was!-0091.jpg <a href=Rohtang Didn't Let me Pass; Spiti & Chandratal It Was!-0092.jpg <a href=Rohtang Didn't Let me Pass; Spiti & Chandratal It Was!-0093.jpg
Nako Lake<br /> <a href=Rohtang Didn't Let me Pass; Spiti & Chandratal It Was!-0095.jpg <a href=Rohtang Didn't Let me Pass; Spiti & Chandratal It Was!-0096.jpg <a href=Rohtang Didn't Let me Pass; Spiti & Chandratal It Was!-0099.jpg <a href=Rohtang Didn't Let me Pass; Spiti & Chandratal It Was!-0105.jpg <a href=Rohtang Didn't Let me Pass; Spiti & Chandratal It Was!-0102.jpg <br /> <b>Day 11:</b><br />
Kaza to Nako, via Kibber, Kye Monastery, Dhankar Monastery, Tabo Monastery. <br />
Distance covered - 173 kms. Departure 8.45 am; Arrival 6.20 pm.</div>   <div style=
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Old 8th September 2010, 17:23   #95
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Day 12: 15th. July 2010

Nako to Shimla. Departure at 9.00 am. Back on the same roads that we took on the way to Kaza. Initial plan was to stay for the night at Rampur. But since we crossed Rampur at around 4.15 pm. decided to move on and finally reached Shimla and halted for the night there. Reached Shimla 9.00 pm. Distance covered 331 kms.

Roads on the way to Shimla.
Rohtang Didn't Let me Pass; Spiti & Chandratal It Was!-0003a.jpg
Some Good,<br /> <a href=Rohtang Didn't Let me Pass; Spiti & Chandratal It Was!-0015a.jpg
Some Bad!<br /> <a href=Rohtang Didn't Let me Pass; Spiti & Chandratal It Was!-0016.jpg <a href=Rohtang Didn't Let me Pass; Spiti & Chandratal It Was!-0017.jpg
Good again.<br /> <a href=Rohtang Didn't Let me Pass; Spiti & Chandratal It Was!-0018c.jpg <a href=Rohtang Didn't Let me Pass; Spiti & Chandratal It Was!-0018e.jpg
Till we reach a landslide being cleared<br /> <a href=Rohtang Didn't Let me Pass; Spiti & Chandratal It Was!-0026.jpg <a href=Rohtang Didn't Let me Pass; Spiti & Chandratal It Was!-0032b.jpg
And another landslide.<br /> <a href=Rohtang Didn't Let me Pass; Spiti & Chandratal It Was!-0033.jpg
Bridge over River Satluj.<br /> <a href=Rohtang Didn't Let me Pass; Spiti & Chandratal It Was!-0039.jpg <a href=Rohtang Didn't Let me Pass; Spiti & Chandratal It Was!-0041.jpg
River Satluj flowing.<br /> <a href=Rohtang Didn't Let me Pass; Spiti & Chandratal It Was!-0045b.jpg
Sunset on the way to Shimla somewhere before the town of Theog<br /> <a href=Rohtang Didn't Let me Pass; Spiti & Chandratal It Was!-_drd9305.jpg <a href=Rohtang Didn't Let me Pass; Spiti & Chandratal It Was!-_drd9313.jpg <a href=Rohtang Didn't Let me Pass; Spiti & Chandratal It Was!-_drd9315.jpg <a href=Rohtang Didn't Let me Pass; Spiti & Chandratal It Was!-_drd9317.jpg <a href=Rohtang Didn't Let me Pass; Spiti & Chandratal It Was!-_drd9318.jpg <a href=Rohtang Didn't Let me Pass; Spiti & Chandratal It Was!-0052.jpg <a href=Rohtang Didn't Let me Pass; Spiti & Chandratal It Was!-0053.jpg <a href=Rohtang Didn't Let me Pass; Spiti & Chandratal It Was!-0056.jpg <a href=Rohtang Didn't Let me Pass; Spiti & Chandratal It Was!-_drd9322.jpg <a href=Rohtang Didn't Let me Pass; Spiti & Chandratal It Was!-_drd9325.jpg <a href=Rohtang Didn't Let me Pass; Spiti & Chandratal It Was!-_drd9329.jpg <a href=Rohtang Didn't Let me Pass; Spiti & Chandratal It Was!-_drd9331.jpg <a href=Rohtang Didn't Let me Pass; Spiti & Chandratal It Was!-_drd9334.jpg <a href=Rohtang Didn't Let me Pass; Spiti & Chandratal It Was!-_drd9340.jpg <a href=Rohtang Didn't Let me Pass; Spiti & Chandratal It Was!-_drd9346.jpg <a href=Rohtang Didn't Let me Pass; Spiti & Chandratal It Was!-_drd9354.jpg <a href=Rohtang Didn't Let me Pass; Spiti & Chandratal It Was!-_drd9358.jpg <a href=Rohtang Didn't Let me Pass; Spiti & Chandratal It Was!-_drd9359.jpg   <div style=
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Old 8th September 2010, 17:44   #96
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Day 12: 15th. July 2010


Shimla by night.

Rohtang Didn't Let me Pass; Spiti & Chandratal It Was!-_drd9361.jpg <br />
The Mall Church all lit up!<br /> <a href=Rohtang Didn't Let me Pass; Spiti & Chandratal It Was!-_drd9366.jpg   <div style=
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Old 8th September 2010, 20:17   #97
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Day 13: 16th. July 2010

Shimla to Jaipur. Departure 9.10 am. This is the day we leave the mountains behind us and enter the plains. We exit Dev Bhoomi aka Himachal Pradesh. This is the beginning of the end. Very few pictures clicked from this point onwards. More of a straight drive all the way to Bombay. Slight problem with the Bolero clutch at Ambala, which was rectified at a roadside garage at Shahabad. Entered Delhi at around 5.20 pm. Faced the full brunt of Delhi traffic and exited at around 7.10 pm. Heavy truck traffic on NH8, almost till Behror. Had half a mind to stay back in Behror, but continued all the way to Jaipur. Reached Jaipur at 11.20pm. Distance covered 625 kms.

Rohtang Didn't Let me Pass; Spiti & Chandratal It Was!-0001.jpg <a href=Rohtang Didn't Let me Pass; Spiti & Chandratal It Was!-0002.jpg <a href=Rohtang Didn't Let me Pass; Spiti & Chandratal It Was!-0003.jpg <a href=Rohtang Didn't Let me Pass; Spiti & Chandratal It Was!-0004.jpg <a href=Rohtang Didn't Let me Pass; Spiti & Chandratal It Was!-0008.jpg <a href=Rohtang Didn't Let me Pass; Spiti & Chandratal It Was!-0010.jpg <a href=Rohtang Didn't Let me Pass; Spiti & Chandratal It Was!-0014.jpg <a href=Rohtang Didn't Let me Pass; Spiti & Chandratal It Was!-0016.jpg <a href=Rohtang Didn't Let me Pass; Spiti & Chandratal It Was!-0017.jpg <a href=Rohtang Didn't Let me Pass; Spiti & Chandratal It Was!-0018.jpg   <div style=
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Old 8th September 2010, 20:24   #98
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What was the clutch problem you faced, Gautam?
Any damage to the underbody in the bad roads?
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Old 8th September 2010, 20:37   #99
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@BolBolero: Awesome pics dude....what camera were you using? Pictures shot at night looks best. Did you use a tripod while shooting those Shimla pics????I assume you had taken them putting the camera in manual setting.....
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Old 8th September 2010, 22:54   #100
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Awesome pictures mate. That bridge is at Wangtoo.Can you believe tha there used to be a small township around both banks of the river and that bridge used to be a full fledged concrete one with a very long span. It used to be about a km downstream from its present location till the raging river swept it all out one day. Even Karcham was not what it is today. Will try to hunt around and see if I can lay my hands on some old pictures of these two places.
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Old 8th September 2010, 23:03   #101
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That is my car crossing the Wangtoo bridge in 2004. I have some lovely videos of the bridge and the crossing, but those files are too large to be uploaded here:

Name:  896096359103_0_ALB.jpg
Views: 640
Size:  34.3 KB</div>   <div style=
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Old 8th September 2010, 23:12   #102
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Sorry, Gautam for this

More photos from my 2004 album:

Roads were narrow, not yet been widened
Name:  634786359103_0_ALB.jpg
Views: 654
Size:  24.4 KB<br /> <br />
...the rocky "roofs" were there as they are now<br /> <img src=
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Old 8th September 2010, 23:20   #103
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All, Did you guys meet Dorjee Bodh and wife who run the tea-stall at Batal bus stop? They were the only 2 humans we met at Batal where the bus stopped on its way to Kaza. This was 13 yrs back!
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Old 9th September 2010, 14:29   #104
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hvkumar View Post
What was the clutch problem you faced, Gautam?
Any damage to the underbody in the bad roads?
The clutch slave cylinder was leaking air, hence the clutch was not engaging even after pressing the pedal fully. Frankly speaking, not sure it got damaged due to the roads, more likely was just worn out due to age! Luckily the garage at Shahabad where we stopped to get it repaired, had a spare parts shop next door, and we got a replacement. No noticeable damages to the underbody, though we took many hits, with stones, etc., especially on the Chandratal road!

Quote:
Originally Posted by kiran_v View Post
@BolBolero: Awesome pics dude....what camera were you using? Pictures shot at night looks best. Did you use a tripod while shooting those Shimla pics????I assume you had taken them putting the camera in manual setting.....
Thanks Kiran_v,
Three cameras, viz. Nikon D70/ Nikon D300/ FujiFilm S5500. Did use the Tripod while shooting the night shots at Shimla, shot with the Nikon D300.

Quote:
Originally Posted by wanderernomad View Post
Awesome pictures mate. That bridge is at Wangtoo.Can you believe tha there used to be a small township around both banks of the river and that bridge used to be a full fledged concrete one with a very long span. It used to be about a km downstream from its present location till the raging river swept it all out one day. Even Karcham was not what it is today. Will try to hunt around and see if I can lay my hands on some old pictures of these two places.
Thank you sir. The whole stretch from Wangtoo to Karcham looked like a ravaged construction zone when we were there. All you can see is frenetic construction activity taking place all along this road. Hope after the project is over, the conditions of the road will improve! Wonder what happened to all the people staying in those villages?
Rohtang Didn't Let me Pass; Spiti & Chandratal It Was!-0122.jpg
Would love to have a look at the photos of these places before the Hydro Project was started! BTW the next time I'm there, I would love to meet you, maybe at the beginning of DEV BHOOMI! (Parwanoo), what say sir?<img src=

Quote:
Originally Posted by hvkumar View Post
That is my car crossing the Wangtoo bridge in 2004. I have some lovely videos of the bridge and the crossing, but those files are too large to be uploaded here:
Attachment 420605
Sorry, Gautam for this
More photos from my 2004 album:
Roads were narrow, not yet been widened
Attachment 420623
...the rocky "roofs" were there as they are now
Attachment 420624
....but the river and the views were the same
Attachment 420625
Would love to have a look at those photos. Even after road widening the road is just about big enough for one HMV and one LMV to pass side by side! The rocky roofs, would be called "CHAJJAS" in construction parlance!

Quote:
Originally Posted by jeevmenon View Post
All, Did you guys meet Dorjee Bodh and wife who run the tea-stall at Batal bus stop? They were the only 2 humans we met at Batal where the bus stopped on its way to Kaza. This was 13 yrs back!
Did not encounter the Batal bus stop, neither the tea-stall coming from the KunzumLa side. Where exactly is this place?
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Old 9th September 2010, 14:38   #105
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Gautam, the Bolero is so popular, that is probably the reason why you got the slave cylinder part so easily somewhere in the highway! One strong reason why one should only drive a car which is sold little, prefer a car with a lot of popularity and service network in the region where you are going.

For instance, I had no problem taking my Matiz to any of the remotest parts of Himachal or Punjab, the car was the most popular small car in its hey days (next to the M800 of course) and the service network in these 2 States was second to none. Therefore, when I burnt up a clutch plate just 2 kms short of Jalori Jot, I could hitch-hike to Mandi and but the genuine spare parts, repair it on the road and resume my journey instead of being towed!

Batal - the tea shop is located 2-3 kms down towards Chhatru/Gramphoo, I think. Gautam came in from the Kaza side and turned off towards Chandra Tal, would not have seen the tea shop. But I believe that the tea shop is still there.
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