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Old 6th December 2010, 08:35   #16
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Wow i loved that fort. Your jeep looks gorgeous. Glad you dared do it in th ejeep. Am sure it must have been fun.
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Old 6th December 2010, 09:28   #17
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Great work on the jeep. Its looks amazing!!
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Old 6th December 2010, 12:07   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kandisa View Post
A brief loo break near pipli

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Ummm... was the loo break for the Jeep!? From the pic, it seems it was not able to hold it's bladder. Must be the water from the A/C I guess.

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Originally Posted by Kandisa View Post
As per logistics managed, as i have mentioned, those were accommodation and fooding, on-road assistance ranging from technical help for vehicles, medication in case of any discomfort in the higher altitude areas, route guidance etc. In a gist, it is like, taking the journey being a part of the convoy and rest of things taken care of by them. Cost this year was 55k for two persons for a 13 day trip!
55K for two persons sounds reasonable enough. How would you rate (say on a scale of 10) the accommodations & food arranged? Asking cause I know a few people who'd like to do the trip in a convoy, but are very finicky about staying & food.

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Originally Posted by Kandisa View Post
In our case the halt at Nalagarh was to have a easy drive on the 1st and 2nd day so that 3rd day onwards the actual journey enroute Rohtang could be taken in a comfortable manner.
The excitement levels must have been peaking big time on those initial two days I guess. The fort pics look great.
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Old 6th December 2010, 13:02   #19
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Originally Posted by maddy42 View Post
Wow i loved that fort. Your jeep looks gorgeous. Glad you dared do it in th ejeep. Am sure it must have been fun.
Thanks. All I can say, it was such a different feeling going through these terrains in the jeep. Yes it was fun at many times, bit demanding and scary too at few others. Watch this space as more details unfold.

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Great work on the jeep. Its looks amazing!!
Thanks buddy.

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Originally Posted by lordofgondor View Post
Ummm... was the loo break for the Jeep!? From the pic, it seems it was not able to hold it's bladder. Must be the water from the A/C I guess.
Ha ha ,no, it was for the passengers. The water thing is just some coincidence and btw it did not come from the jeep. A/C???? From comfort point of view all my jeep has is a pair of Innova seats and a soft top with two fabricated soft doors for the weather protection, nothing else!!

Quote:
55K for two persons sounds reasonable enough. How would you rate (say on a scale of 10) the accommodations & food arranged? Asking cause I know a few people who'd like to do the trip in a convoy, but are very finicky about staying & food.
Accommodation was of top notch quality except at Jispa, where we stayed at Padma Guest House in place of the designated Ibex, though the place was neat and clean. Places where we stayed were: Nalagarh Fort (Day I), Holiday Inn Manali (day 2), Padma Guest House Jispa (Day 3), Lha Ri Sa Resort Leh (During stay at Leh), Nubra Organic Retreat at Nubra, Hotel Siachen Kargil, Green Top at Patnitop. Due to disturbances the night stay at a good Dal lake houseboat was cancelled and we had stops for few hours at a good hotel just after the market at Sonmarg. We paid around 5k more for the Sonmarg thing, as the hotel was charging absurdly high amount seeing an opportunity to cash in. So total we paid around 60k. Almost at all the places food arrangements were from the place of accommodation only and except at Holiday Inn Manali (their food quality is diametrically opposite to the standard of the rooms!), the food was superb in almost all other occasions. Overall as per as fooding and accommodation are concerned i would rate 9.5/10.

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The excitement levels must have been peaking big time on those initial two days I guess. The fort pics look great.
Yes it was. More than excitement there were curiosities to travel the road forward which, till then we saw only in pictures. And for me and my wife, it was even more as we were travelling in the jeep.
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Old 6th December 2010, 19:30   #20
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Day 2: Nalagarh - Manali

During the middle of the night in semi-asleep state i could hear the sounds of lightning and was more than sure than rain was inevitable. Waking up around 6 in the morning amidst sounds of rainfall just confirmed the same! The overcast sky didn't show much of promise either. Anyways, we got ready, packed up the luggages and finally proceeded to have breakfast. By the time we were finished the rain god finally responded to my prayers and the rain stopped. Here are some more pictures of the fort in the morning.

The badminton court
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A shot from Rahul's FZ, on the left of this space was the room, named as 'xyz mahal'

Jeeplogue : A JEEP Journey to Ladakh with Self Drive Expedition Group-p1000164.jpg

Inside the fort

Jeeplogue : A JEEP Journey to Ladakh with Self Drive Expedition Group-nalagarh4.jpg

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The terrace after the rain

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But then the rainfall althrough the night left the inside of the jeep in a mess. So went another few minutes in cleaning up the seats, few luggage in the rear and covering those properly with plastic sheets.

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Jeeplogue : A JEEP Journey to Ladakh with Self Drive Expedition Group-jeep_clean-2.jpg

One by one vehicles descended down. The turn was really narrow for a biggie like LC and it just barely got saved from a bruise against the wall while climbing down.

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A quick round of photos and we finally started for Manali just after 8.It was a beautiful morning, the surrounding was lush green, temperature was just right and we felt so good cruising in the jeep through the country side.

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A brief stoppage to decide on the route, pic taken from Rahul's FZ

Jeeplogue : A JEEP Journey to Ladakh with Self Drive Expedition Group-p1000217.jpg

But as they say 'expect the unexpected', after around 40 minutes, just after taking a turn i saw the vehicles ahead had stopped and there some waterbody ahead. Going a bit close revealed this! Well it was a simple case of the road getting washed away. Basically the road takes a turn towards the right through an incline at this place and the stream empowered with fresh water intake had made a deep way right through it!

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We stopped to have a detailed look.

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Jeeplogue : A JEEP Journey to Ladakh with Self Drive Expedition Group-manali.jpg
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Old 6th December 2010, 20:21   #21
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Day 2 continued....

Everyone was out to see the condition.
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The waterflow was really strong and the road was missing for quite a significant patch! And this is the video of the place taken in FZ:



After the excitement of clicking photos was over, it was time to decide for the next course of action. For a moment, the people with 4 wheel drive vehicle had a devilish idea of crossing the water and take the road ahead!
But then it was decided not to take any unnecessary risks, plenty of adventure would anyways be in store in the journey ahead! More so when there is the Cedia along. The villagers gathered there by the time and suggested another route which would merge with the main manali highwy afterwards. So we resumed the beautiful morning drive by taking U turn. Here is a glimpse.



Roads were getting narrow at few places and slowly the trucks started appearing from both the sides. After around two hours, we were finally on the main manali road and the traffic only increased! There was minor problem with the accelerator wire of the jeep as it was getting slightly stuck somewhere. So at the tea break, taken an hour later, the problem was paid attention to by Mandeep. Nothing major though and we got to use to the newly bought toolbox for the 1st time!

Troubleshooting in progress

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Some shots of the jeep. Dirt & mud, mixed with the original colour of the jeep was giving it a unique look! The mud splash was during overtaking a truck.

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The energetic, ever-active but very disciplined and adorable Antara, daughter of Rahul standing with jeep

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The lunch stop was taken around 2.30 and it was more or less sure that we wouldn't be able to reach Manali before evening. The lunch was a heavy affair with roti, dal, chicken bharta, biryani & raita.
Some shots of the surroundings during lunch

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Snaps of the journey afterwards

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Few shots of the jeep while fuelling up just after Aut tunnel

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Darkness was approaching

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Reached the destination for the day

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It is an amazing place to stay with lovely lawns inside and cozy rooms. After taking a short break we decided to tank up the vehicles. Not to depend on the reserves of Tandi and to be on the safer side, i got the two jerrycans topped up apart from the petrol tank of the jeep. Then we proceeded towards the market as we needed some money to withdraw. While Suranjana was off to the ATM i was standing just outside the parking lot which was closed. There were fully loaded trucks climbing up towards Rohtang at night screaming in pain. I also noticed a young foreigner lady in a packed up Enfield going the same way all alone at 9 o'clock at night.
Anyways we came back to the hotel and had the dinner there itself as it was part of the package. And surprisingly it was a really bad meal! As i have mentioned, basically food wise this place is just diametrically opposite in quality compared to the superb accommodation facility. Keeping in mind the early departure next day we wanted to retire to bed as early as possible but it was only around 11.15 when finally we could do that. The actual journey was to begin and there was this hidden excitement; it was decided we would start by 5 in the morning next day.
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Old 7th December 2010, 10:18   #22
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Day 3: Manali to Jispa
----------------------
We 've been to Manali only once before this, but never went beyond it, not even rohtang pass which is part of the travel rituals for any tourists coming to Manali. Naturally we were excited, not to mention this was going to be the first pass of the journey.
But there was a damper when we woke up early in the morning, it was raining quite heavily. And things were not improving by the time we got ready. Initially we thought to pack the breakfast and go but then seeing the situation decided to have it in the hotel itself. This was the major blunder as turned out later! Intensity of rainfall came down in between and the hotel stuffs took ages to prepare even the basic items like bread toast and omlettes. And the quality of food was no different than previous night, equally pathetic! Someone commented that the juice tasted like cough syrup!! When we finally started, it was around 7.30, though few people assured us that there shouldn't be much of tourist rush enroute.
Here are few shots in the morning:

Inside Holiday Inn
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The surroundings
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At the breakfast hall
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Anyways the drizzle stopped finally when we reached the main signboard where Project Deepak welcomes you on the Manali-Sarchu road. Forgot to mention that there was a new vehicle in the convoy, a 3 month old new Wagon-R, driven by a 60+ gentleman from Delhi who was on his own! Few clicks in front of the signboard and we started the Rohtang ascent.

The signboard
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The line-up
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Raring to go with the jeep
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It was not raining any more, and the surroundings were refreshingly beautiful. And how enjoying the drive could be in a Jeep! Here are two videos of the leisurely drive enourte Rohtang.





In the initial few kms roads were in really good condition but then it gradually started deteriorating and we got the first hint of the typical 'bad rohtang road'.
Condition of the road in the beginning
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But then it turned into something like these
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When we reached Marhi and stopped for a cup of tea, we realized that we were going to pay heavily for the delay in the morning! Got to know that there was a major landslide few kms before Rohtang top the previous night and vehicles were struggling to go past this stretch.
The picturesque guest house
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So the inevitable had happened, there were queues of vehicles in the inclines up ahead and the picture was no different than the typical jam scene enroute Rohtang as seen in many travelogues before!! Anyways we finished the tea and surrendered ourselves to the existing queue of vehicles going up. Traffic jams in hair pin bends and that too where roads are non-existent are the worst kind of things one can expect in the hill. The smaller cars were sliding like anything while attempting the tougher stretches.
A small video of a relatively better portion of the incline



Not to put any pressure on the Jeep, i used the 4wd in couple of occasions. For the next few hours it was like we were moving for 5 minutes and then stopping for 50 minutes! People from various other vehicles were passing by the Jeep and giving a surprising look. The local drivers were mostly surprised seeing the tyres in particular! After all they must not have seen too many mud terrain tyres in vehicles around. The vendors selling chole-kulche and corn were having a brisk business.
The scene
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The jam was really profitable for this guy;
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In between we saw two fully gear-equipped cyclists going up the road and one of them actually had his left leg amputated below the knee! We were literally dumbstruck for some moments and this is one of the greatest demonstrations of mental courage i 've seen in person till date.

Finally we came to that portion which was the cause of the delay. It was a sharp hair pin bend, an incline of probably 30 degrees, filled with mud of significant depth and condition worsened by multiple vehicles plying till morning. The trucks were sidelined and given a chance to try once after every 5-6 smaller vehicles. Many Rohtang bound tourist taxis returned from this patch as vehicles were taking multiple attempts to clear it and few were unable to make it even after that. And when they used to get stuck it between, it was more dramatised situation. The Jeep, offcourse cleared it without any fuss. But we were so engrossed by the overall setting, forgot to take any video of the climb. Those who want some real life adventurous mud & slush OTR, should try Rohtang during the monsoon, off course at own risk!
Rohtang top was couple of more kms, but the roads were in the worst of condition till we were almost near the peak, and it also started raining quite profusely decreasing the visibility to the minimum. The Rohtang top was deserted and it took us some time to realize that we had crossed it. Here is a video somewhere near the top.



And the road condition
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Rain settled down the moment we started taking the downhill enroute Khoksar and we reached there around 6 in the evening, time lost due to jam was around 7 hours!! This actually had a much worse effect on us in the journey ahead.
Anyways the hot maggi at Chironjilal's dhaba at Khoksar brought some energy back and we started for Jispa afer taking a longe break when darkness was about to fall. The two foreigner cyclists chose this place as their night hault. Sanjay was accompanying us, rest of the vehicles were much ahead. Driving by the river, gradually we passed Sissu and reached Tandi where the pump was closed. Sanjay got down to check whether anyone was around, but there was none. Good decision to fuel up at Manali itself. Anyways we had enough reserve and carried forward.

Experience of driving through such terrains at night in the jeep was something new for us. Though we could realize that we were missing the scenaries around, but then the Rohtang saga messed up everything. Finally reached Jispa around 10 at night and went to Padma Guest house in stead of the designated Hotel Ibex. The accommodation was basic but very neat and clean, the food was really delicious and the chicken preparation was somewhat unique though very tasty.

Official journey time of the day was close to 15 hours and undoubtedly it took a toll on our body! Not to mention the next day's journey was going to be even longer and tougher as Sanjay was repeatating that Rohtang was just the trailer! Putting the worries aside temporarily, crashed in the bed and finally called it a day.
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Old 7th December 2010, 11:26   #23
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Wow man, that broken road with flowing water looks more like a river! Did you guys check out the depth? The muddy Jeep looks awesomely awesome. I wonder how it'd have looked after crossing Rohtang.

Feels bad reading about the time lost at Rohtang, but then you guys made the mistake of leaving that late for it. Latest by 6 AM is the time to head for it I say. For me, Rohtang is more than a trailer on the Manali-Leh route. It's probably the toughest Pass to traverse along the whole stretch owing to the huge potholes & the deep mud slush after rains. Brings back the times when I was crazily fishtailing my Esteem over the slush to keep momentum and not get bogged down. Luckily, both times there was next to none traffic as it was around 5:30 AM.
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Old 7th December 2010, 11:40   #24
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Folks, this is my first travelogue on Teambhp, about my experiences of travelling to Ladakh in July this year with the 'Self Drive Expedition Group' along with my better half. And if you are bored of going through good number of travelogues on Leh, this has a bit difference because we did this journey in our beloved soft top Petrol Jeep
A jeep travelogue is never boring Kandisa.
I am hooked. Some photographs are beautiful.

Regards,
krishna.
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Old 7th December 2010, 12:40   #25
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Wow man, that broken road with flowing water looks more like a river! Did you guys check out the depth? The muddy Jeep looks awesomely awesome. I wonder how it'd have looked after crossing Rohtang.
Yes initially i thought it was a small rive ronly! No we didn't check out the depth as it was decided very clearly that we were not going to take the route. Besides the water flow was really strong. The jeep indeed looks better when coated with mud and stuffs, wait till you get to see the condition of the jeep when it finally made to Leh!

Quote:
..Feels bad reading about the time lost at Rohtang, but then you guys made the mistake of leaving that late for it. Latest by 6 AM is the time to head for it I say. .
Yes it was indeed a great mistake. Basically the rain factor jeopardised everything.
Quote:
For me, Rohtang is more than a trailer on the Manali-Leh route. It's probably the toughest Pass to traverse along the whole stretch owing to the huge potholes & the deep mud slush after rains. Brings back the times when I was crazily fishtailing my Esteem over the slush to keep momentum and not get bogged down. Luckily, both times there was next to none traffic as it was around 5:30 AM.
Agree 100% with you. Though altitude wise there are mightier passes but post rain, the rohtang roads are really disastrous. I can visualize the condition of the esteem, must have been really scary. In fact i think i couldn't have cleared the final patch comfortably if i would have been driving a sedan or a normal 2 wheel drive vehicle!

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A jeep travelogue is never boring Kandisa.
I am hooked. Some photographs are beautiful....
Thanks Krishna, for people passionate about jeeps thats is definitely the case. I, in fact always wanted to read a travelogue to Leh, done in a jeep; but never found one!
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Old 7th December 2010, 12:44   #26
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Originally Posted by Kandisa View Post
wait till you get to see the condition of the jeep when it finally made to Leh!
Holding onto my horses for that! And pressing the F5 button every 5 minutes.
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Old 7th December 2010, 13:13   #27
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Holding onto my horses for that! And pressing the F5 button every 5 minutes.
Oh, you can relax then, because there are few more episodes in between! And it is very difficult to update from the office. Next instalment will pour in as soon as i get some opportunity.
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Old 7th December 2010, 13:44   #28
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Awesome pics and narration, that road looks dangerous. How did the wagon r fare in rohtang?
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Old 7th December 2010, 14:28   #29
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Completely hooked. Pictures are excellent and the narration even better. Yes the roads are treacherous around Rohtang and made even worse by slush and stupid drivers. Good going mate, keep them coming.
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Old 7th December 2010, 16:54   #30
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Amazing snaps there Kandisa. The jeep in particular looks fabulous !!
We want more.


Even I'm wondering about the low ground clearance vehicles in the convoy ?
Imagine what would happen to my FIGO with it's infamously low GC

Stupid question :
Where/how do you get those stickers ?
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