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Old 29th May 2011, 20:58   #136
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Default Re: Gurgaon - Jhansi - Khajuraho - Bandhavgarh - Pench - Kanha - Bhedaghat - Gurgaon

Marble Rocks - Bhedaghat

Reached the ghat walking past an array of shops, small & big, selling artifacts made of marble, soft limestone, rocks etc. The stairs leading to the ghat area was lined on both sides by small shanties where artisans were engraving names or carving images on the soft limestone tablets instantly. My daughter took two small tablets and wanted the names of her & her brother engraved. We told the artisan to prepare it and in the meanwhile went for the boat-ride on the Narmada.

There are several points along the boat route that one can take a ride to and the farthest & longest route is to a place called Bandar Koodi (बन्दर कूदी), so called because the convergence of the rocks on either side of the river is so close that once upon a time monkeys used to jump across the cliff.

The boat ride had a few options - shared motor boat seating 20 odd people, private manual rowing boat seating around 5 people & private motor boat seating around 5 people.

I opted for the private manual rowing boat upto Bandar Koodi costing Rs. 400/- for a 1 hr ride laced with some colourful commentary. The boat was rowed by two boatsmen.

The Narmada, flows in a gorge flanked by huge rock formations about 100 ft in height and these rocks are known as the Marble Rocks. They are best viewed on a full moon night when the rocks shimmer. The river is very deep with the minimum being 400 feet and at its deepest at 650 feet. I saw a lot of whirlpools forming in the swirling waters - very dangerous to swim, even for seasoned swimmers.

Let the pictures speak for themselves.

Brown & Blue Rocks

Gurgaon - Jhansi - Khajuraho - Bandhavgarh - Pench - Kanha - Bhedaghat - Gurgaon-4963.jpg

Blue Rocks

Gurgaon - Jhansi - Khajuraho - Bandhavgarh - Pench - Kanha - Bhedaghat - Gurgaon-4964.jpg

Gurgaon - Jhansi - Khajuraho - Bandhavgarh - Pench - Kanha - Bhedaghat - Gurgaon-4966.jpg

Slate material

Gurgaon - Jhansi - Khajuraho - Bandhavgarh - Pench - Kanha - Bhedaghat - Gurgaon-4965.jpg

Soft pale white marble - Shiv Ling on top

Gurgaon - Jhansi - Khajuraho - Bandhavgarh - Pench - Kanha - Bhedaghat - Gurgaon-4967.jpg

White & Black Marble Rocks

Gurgaon - Jhansi - Khajuraho - Bandhavgarh - Pench - Kanha - Bhedaghat - Gurgaon-4968.jpg

Deep Blue volcanic Rock

Gurgaon - Jhansi - Khajuraho - Bandhavgarh - Pench - Kanha - Bhedaghat - Gurgaon-4969.jpg

Kingfisher

Gurgaon - Jhansi - Khajuraho - Bandhavgarh - Pench - Kanha - Bhedaghat - Gurgaon-4971.jpg

The Gorge

In the distant you can see Bandar Koodi

Gurgaon - Jhansi - Khajuraho - Bandhavgarh - Pench - Kanha - Bhedaghat - Gurgaon-4976.jpg

Gurgaon - Jhansi - Khajuraho - Bandhavgarh - Pench - Kanha - Bhedaghat - Gurgaon-4979.jpg

Illegal Fishing - Fisherman & his canoe

Gurgaon - Jhansi - Khajuraho - Bandhavgarh - Pench - Kanha - Bhedaghat - Gurgaon-4982.jpg

White marble rock in the middle of the river

Gurgaon - Jhansi - Khajuraho - Bandhavgarh - Pench - Kanha - Bhedaghat - Gurgaon-4983.jpg

A perspective photograph showing all kinds of rocks

Gurgaon - Jhansi - Khajuraho - Bandhavgarh - Pench - Kanha - Bhedaghat - Gurgaon-4984.jpg

After viewing the marvel of nature we returned, thanked the boatmen, collected the engraved tablets and headed towards the Hotel. There we would pick up our vehicle and go to Dhuadhar Falls that were a kilometer away.

to be continued.../-

Last edited by gd1418 : 29th May 2011 at 21:07.
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Old 29th May 2011, 21:56   #137
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Default Re: Gurgaon - Jhansi - Khajuraho - Bandhavgarh - Pench - Kanha - Bhedaghat - Gurgaon

Dhuandhar (धुवान्धर) Falls - Bhedaghat

River Narmada, making its way through the world-famous Marble Rocks, narrows down and then plunges in a waterfall known as Dhuandhar or the smoke cascade. The plunge, which creates a bouncing mass of mist, is so powerful that its roar is heard from a far distance. The falls and the breaking of the volume of water at the crest present an awesome spectacle of Nature's power unleashed.

Walked back to the Hotel, picked up the car as walking a kilometer in that harsh Sun was something no one was willing to do. Reached the area, overshot the turn, made a u-turn, came back and then found the "VIP" gate that would take our car close to the falls. This was going to cost Rs.100/- as the entry fees or fleece as I would call. Parked the car and walked the short distance to the fall. The roar of the fall was audible from quite a distance and it was like a few jet engines at full throttle.

The height of the falls is 30 meters (approx 100 feet) and the force of the water is something to be seen to be believed.

Gushing & swirling waters of Narmada just before the fall

Gurgaon - Jhansi - Khajuraho - Bandhavgarh - Pench - Kanha - Bhedaghat - Gurgaon-4990.jpg

Falling and churning waters

Gurgaon - Jhansi - Khajuraho - Bandhavgarh - Pench - Kanha - Bhedaghat - Gurgaon-4988.jpg

Dhuandhar Falls

Gurgaon - Jhansi - Khajuraho - Bandhavgarh - Pench - Kanha - Bhedaghat - Gurgaon-4991.jpg

Gurgaon - Jhansi - Khajuraho - Bandhavgarh - Pench - Kanha - Bhedaghat - Gurgaon-4994.jpg

Gurgaon - Jhansi - Khajuraho - Bandhavgarh - Pench - Kanha - Bhedaghat - Gurgaon-5001.jpg

Self-portrait

Gurgaon - Jhansi - Khajuraho - Bandhavgarh - Pench - Kanha - Bhedaghat - Gurgaon-2003.jpg

Rushing through the gorge & calming down

Gurgaon - Jhansi - Khajuraho - Bandhavgarh - Pench - Kanha - Bhedaghat - Gurgaon-5002.jpg

Sitting with daughter on the banks, with feet dangling in chilling waters

Gurgaon - Jhansi - Khajuraho - Bandhavgarh - Pench - Kanha - Bhedaghat - Gurgaon-2006.jpg

Gurgaon - Jhansi - Khajuraho - Bandhavgarh - Pench - Kanha - Bhedaghat - Gurgaon-2005.jpg

Gurgaon - Jhansi - Khajuraho - Bandhavgarh - Pench - Kanha - Bhedaghat - Gurgaon-5004.jpg

The show over, we returned and stopped at MPTDC's Motel marble Rocks for lunch. They served non-veg fare. After lunch, went to our hotel, settled the bills, packed our luggage and it was time to head back home. A very very satisfying tour of Madhya Pradesh was coming to an end.

Left Bhedaghat for Jhansi at 1 pm taking the following route.

Route map

Gurgaon - Jhansi - Khajuraho - Bandhavgarh - Pench - Kanha - Bhedaghat - Gurgaon-bhedaghatjhansi.png

The Prologue now ends. Read the Epilogue on page #: 5 post #: 62 (Gurgaon - Jhansi - Khajuraho - Bandhavgarh - Pench - Kanha - Bhedaghat - Gurgaon).

From door-to-door it was a 2500 Km run. Except for the nail induced punctures, the Scorpio gave no other trouble and returned a mileage of 11 kmpl with Ac.

Thank you for staying with me till now..

The End

Last edited by gd1418 : 29th May 2011 at 22:03.
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Old 30th May 2011, 11:20   #138
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Default Re: Gurgaon - Jhansi - Khajuraho - Bandhavgarh - Pench - Kanha - Bhedaghat - Gurgaon

This TL is certainly going to be a guide book for many wildlife enthusiasts.

Amazing. I have been reading every line of your TL right from the beginning.
Sad that this has come to an end.

Loved the pics and your narration.
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Old 30th May 2011, 12:19   #139
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Default Re: Gurgaon - Jhansi - Khajuraho - Bandhavgarh - Pench - Kanha - Bhedaghat - Gurgaon

Great pics of the marble stones and the falls. You're kinda actually inspiring me to plan a long drive in the plains, which I've always avoided (except drives to RJ).

How are Narmada's water levels in winters? Would the falls be as grand as they're now?
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Old 30th May 2011, 13:04   #140
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Default Re: Gurgaon - Jhansi - Khajuraho - Bandhavgarh - Pench - Kanha - Bhedaghat - Gurgaon

Thanks Mohsin. I too was sad when the TL ended. I was reliving every moment as I wrote.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MohsinRoadster View Post

This TL is certainly going to be a guide book for many wildlife enthusiasts.

Amazing. I have been reading every line of your TL right from the beginning. Sad that this has come to an end.

Loved the pics and your narration.
Thanks lordofgondor. If the Narmada's water levels now are like this then post monsoon, I believe, it should be grander.

Quote:
Originally Posted by lordofgondor View Post

Great pics of the marble stones and the falls. You're kinda actually inspiring me to plan a long drive in the plains, which I've always avoided (except drives to RJ).

How are Narmada's water levels in winters? Would the falls be as grand as they're now?
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Old 30th May 2011, 13:29   #141
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Default Re: Gurgaon - Jhansi - Khajuraho - Bandhavgarh - Pench - Kanha - Bhedaghat - Gurgaon

Good travelogue and some fantastic pictures.
How was the road conditions from Jabalpur-Sagar-Jhansi.
Is the four laning complete in the Sagar-Jhansi stretch.
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Old 30th May 2011, 14:17   #142
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Default Re: Gurgaon - Jhansi - Khajuraho - Bandhavgarh - Pench - Kanha - Bhedaghat - Gurgaon

Thank you. Road conditions generally good, bad in patches, single lane most of the way.

4 laning between Sagar & Jhansi not yet complete, more so when UP area starts and the cattle squatting in the middle of the road, wrong side driving was the order of the day. Upto Lalitpur it was kinda ok. Total nightmare after that - bone jarring drive. Babina to Jhansi, the less said the better.

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Good travelogue and some fantastic pictures.
How was the road conditions from Jabalpur-Sagar-Jhansi.
Is the four laning complete in the Sagar-Jhansi stretch.

Last edited by gd1418 : 30th May 2011 at 14:18.
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Old 30th May 2011, 17:43   #143
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Some of the shots taken by me during my visit to Jabalpur in 2008, They were taken by Sony T5 P&S. We were mesmerized by seeing the marble rocks, they look so beautiful.

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Old 30th May 2011, 18:32   #144
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Default Re: Gurgaon - Jhansi - Khajuraho - Bandhavgarh - Pench - Kanha - Bhedaghat - Gurgaon

So were we...

I liked pic #:6. Taken from the cable car? Water levels in Narmada in 2008 were less? The falls look lean...

Quote:
Originally Posted by TheBeastFieast View Post

Some of the shots taken by me during my visit to Jabalpur in 2008, They were taken by Sony T5 P&S. We were mesmerized by seeing the marble rocks, they look so beautiful.

Attachment 552742
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Old 30th May 2011, 18:38   #145
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gd1418 View Post
So were we...

I liked pic #:6. Taken from the cable car? Water levels in Narmada in 2008 were less? The falls look lean...
Thanks, Yes, water was very less, it was no where to its glamors days.
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Old 31st May 2011, 11:38   #146
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Default Re: Gurgaon - Jhansi - Khajuraho - Bandhavgarh - Pench - Kanha - Bhedaghat - Gurgaon

How was the Jabalpur-Damoh-Sagar road?
I heard that most of the 4-laning between Sagar and Jhansi is completed? True?
Is Sagar bypass complete?
What were your timings from Jabalpur to Jhansi?
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Old 31st May 2011, 12:19   #147
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The Jabalpur Damoh Sagar road is good but single lane. The 4-lane between Sagar & jhansi is partly complete but a nightmare after Lalitpur. I missed the sagar by-pass and entered the city hence can't comment.

Left Bhedaghat at 1 pm and reached Jhansi (Sita Hotel) at 7:30 pm.

Quote:
Originally Posted by hvkumar View Post

How was the Jabalpur-Damoh-Sagar road?

I heard that most of the 4-laning between Sagar and Jhansi is completed?

True?

Is Sagar bypass complete?

What were your timings from Jabalpur to Jhansi?
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Old 31st May 2011, 13:09   #148
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It may take some more time for the bypass to be completed. The Lalitpur Jhansi stretch is very bad; Babina- Jhansi being worst.

That said, I have always wondered why it remains a neglected stretch. If I am not wrong it's SH25 and one crosses from MP to UP and vice versa number of times on this stretch. Can this be the possible reason for neglect?
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Old 31st May 2011, 19:03   #149
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Default Re: Gurgaon - Jhansi - Khajuraho - Bandhavgarh - Pench - Kanha - Bhedaghat - Gurgaon

Quote:
Originally Posted by gd1418 View Post
Thanks Mohsin. I too was sad when the TL ended. I was reliving every moment as I wrote.



Thanks lordofgondor. If the Narmada's water levels now are like this then post monsoon, I believe, it should be grander.
Thanks GD saheb, for taking me back virtually to my hometown. I was following the travelogue very keenly.

As far as water levels are concerned, they are largely determined by mansoon (supply) but equaly largely by the Bargi dam (logistics). I practically grew up with the Bargi dam when it's construction was on (I was boarding in Navodaya Vidyala Bargi nagar) and followed every move in Narmada's flow, including flooding in seoni area, protests by farmers, release of water thru canals etc. You had already started else I would have asked you to take a 10 km detour to the dam from NH-7. If I remember correctly it has 2 45-MW generators, I did another field trip when I was studying electrical engineering in Jabalpur engg. college .

Here is a satellite view of the reservoir and the water that trickles thru all the way to bhedaghat.

Gurgaon - Jhansi - Khajuraho - Bandhavgarh - Pench - Kanha - Bhedaghat - Gurgaon-untitled.png

And here is a nostalgic trip I did to my alma mater in 2007 in my last India trip, includes pics of the dam.

IMG_6027 pictures from school reunions photos on webshots
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Old 31st May 2011, 21:44   #150
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Default Re: Gurgaon - Jhansi - Khajuraho - Bandhavgarh - Pench - Kanha - Bhedaghat - Gurgaon

Thanks boss - lovely TL. Will pain you in early 2012. Hope to be driving down that side at that time and will take tips from you!
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