Team-BHP
(
https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/)
lol: Good one. Seriously however I doubt if the guys from TATA who reply to queries even know what a transfer case is!
Quote:
Originally Posted by jyobeb
(Post 764376)
lol: Good one. Seriously however I doubt if the guys from TATA who reply to queries even know what a transfer case is! |
To some of them, "transfer case" probably means a box with which to move bottles of beer around :D
Anyway, as Ignazio has mentioned, you can probably try cleaning the electrical contacts : this may not require any major dismantling. I dont think it should be a problem in the tcase itself : I fell it is just some loose contact in the electrical/tronic circuit.
I removed the connectors, sprayed contact cleaner on them, reconnected and tried again with no luck. Now I need to decide if I want to try Ignazio's suggestion of removing the motor, or head out to the dealer.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jyobeb
(Post 764445)
I removed the connectors, sprayed contact cleaner on them, reconnected and tried again with no luck. Now I need to decide if I want to try Ignazio's suggestion of removing the motor, or head out to the dealer. |
then it is probably a better idea to go to the dealer.
Hi
Quote:
Originally Posted by jyobeb
(Post 764445)
I removed the connectors, sprayed contact cleaner on them, reconnected and tried again with no luck. Now I need to decide if I want to try Ignazio's suggestion of removing the motor, or head out to the dealer. |
I'm sorry did not work... Take the motor down is not that complicate as it may appear, few bolts and it is off. The only electrical connection is the one you try to clean already. If save a bit on diy is your target, try, trust me! In the worst case scenario you can go to TATA dealer and by a new motor and replace it.
Bear in mind that you can drive the Safari without Tcase motor, no problem.
Some friends in Tata club Italia had the same problem, this was due to a position contact failure inside the motor gear. In Italy it is a very expensive part so some tryed to repair it.
A BIG GOOD LUCK!!!
Ciao Ciao
Ignazio
Quote:
Originally Posted by jyobeb
(Post 764445)
I removed the connectors, sprayed contact cleaner on them, reconnected and tried again with no luck. Now I need to decide if I want to try Ignazio's suggestion of removing the motor, or head out to the dealer. |
I am sure the vehicle is still under warranty of that sort. If DIY does not help, the company may make an issue out of it and put the blame on us.
I personally feel that it must be taken to a dealer.
Warranty is over, but dealer is a good friend.:)
Quote:
Originally Posted by suman
(Post 762824)
LOL, are you serious:Shockked:! You should send them a stinker for misleading you. By the way, you do have the sticker on your windshield glass, right? It clearly mentions "Do not march the vehicle till 4H/4L indicator stops blinking". And these guys are asking you to drive it in reverse till it engages? What are you supposed to do if you are actually in territory where you need 4L immediately - drive around till you hear it "engage". Man, this is unbelievable!
The same sticker also mentions asks you To Unlock/freewheeling 4L-4H-2H, Reverse (if moving forward) or Forward (if in Reverse). This is standard procedure for DISengaging that I always follow. Till date, I haven't needed to follow this for engaging. LOL
You could be right, the manual does mention that continuous blinking indicates electrical malfunction.
Jyobeb, eitherways, get it across to a service station at the earliest opportunity. |
For 3 years I was a test driver for Dana-Spicer, one of the world's prime suppliers of four wheel drive components. I test drove many 4 wheel drive vehicles and many which were very difficult to get into and out of 4 wheel drive whether high or low. Our test books, written by design engineers, specifically and in detail instructed us to follow the procedure that you say is so ridiculous, going into reverse and then forward for a short distance etc.
This was not standard procedure but a troublshooting or emergency procedure.
Dan, I know that you were with Dana Spicer, have read that on many an occasion. The point is, this is not supposed to happen while engaging 4wd, it is a necessity while disengaging. I would also assume that over time, mechanisms have become far more refined & I don't know how many of my 4x4 brethren face problems while engaging 4L. I haven't heard of too many cases.
As you have pointed out yourself, it cannot be a standard procedure for engaging because, in an emergency then, it would never engage. Lol
More convenient on the fly, even if the vehicle is moving.
Mechanical ones need you to stop engage and then go.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 4x4addict
(Post 763382)
Off-Topic, but why don't companies just stick with a mechanical transfer case rather than electric? More durable and reliable. |
Quote:
Originally Posted by dadu
(Post 765028)
More convenient on the fly, even if the vehicle is moving.
Mechanical ones need you to stop engage and then go. |
Mechanical synchromesh TCases can shift on the move. The older constant mesh TCases require stopping.
Quote:
Originally Posted by dadu
(Post 765028)
More convenient on the fly, even if the vehicle is moving.
Mechanical ones need you to stop engage and then go. |
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alfa_Kilo
(Post 765057)
Mechanical synchromesh TCases can shift on the move. The older constant mesh TCases require stopping. |
In any case, for 4L, you need to stop & engage (whether transfer case is shift-on-the-fly or not) - at least, that's what's recommended on my Safari.
My grandfather had a Willys 4x4 jeep. I did not know much about cars etc., at that time but what I remember very vividly was after crossing the Ganges by bridge into Ramnagar (Benares) there was an Ashram that we used to visit regularly, and it was total mud road with soft moist mud & slush all the way. As soon as the jeep used to get stuck at some point, the driver simply used to engage the 4x4 mechanism by using the other gear lever and the jeep used to lurch forward effortlessly.
That remained etched in mind. Based on that premise, a 4x4 should be functional in an emergency. You don't require it for day-to-day running. If the vehicle is stuck and your 4x4 mechanism, whether manual or on-the-fly, requires moving forward or backward to engage, then it is of no use. I bloody well get it towed for all that it matters.
My 2 cents..
Quote:
Originally Posted by gd1418
(Post 765319)
a 4x4 should be functional in an emergency. You don't require it for day-to-day running. If the vehicle is stuck and your 4x4 mechanism, whether manual or on-the-fly, requires moving forward or backward to engage, then it is of no use. I bloody well get it towed for all that it matters. |
That was exactly the point I was trying to make. Thanks for reiterating GD
Quote:
Originally Posted by dadu
(Post 765028)
More convenient on the fly, even if the vehicle is moving.
Mechanical ones need you to stop engage and then go. |
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alfa_Kilo
(Post 765057)
Mechanical synchromesh TCases can shift on the move. The older constant mesh TCases require stopping. |
Gypsy had a mechanical transfer case, and you could shift to 4H on the fly.
for 4L you needed to stop the vehicle.
And Suman,GD, you are right. For Engaging 4H or 4L you do not need to do this circus. Its disengaging procedure which requires this.
Jyoyeb, go to the Tata dealer, hopefully there will be somebody there who is clued to this transfer case
All times are GMT +5.5. The time now is 03:00. | |