[offroad_maniac]

If one can source a Bolero FFRA, then why not use it. just change the differential gear ratios with that of matching with front axles.

[svsantosh]

Originally Posted by offroad_maniac

If one can source a Bolero FFRA, then why not use it. just change the differential gear ratios with that of matching with front axles.

Bolero's is longer. The axle in question here is the 48" track CJ340/Classic/CJ500 one. Hence all this effort to go the FFRA way.

[Red Liner]

Originally Posted by svsantosh

Bolero's is longer. The axle in question here is the 48" track CJ340/Classic/CJ500 one. Hence all this effort to go the FFRA way.

So what are our options? I am keen on slotting in a wide-axle treatment. With my 8/43 crown pinion, i have to upgrade to 255/85 tyres soon or I'll have people walking faster than me.

How big are the FC (Forward control) axles? Are they FFRA on the rear? And will they support a 8/43 crown pinion? What kind of mod's do I need to do? Am also keen on doing this along with a change in the steering set up to the new type 4 ball joint version and maybe an OKBJ set up?

Am i missing something here? Dont tell me "Yeah, all the parts for the above!"

[svsantosh]

^^ Venky, I only went so far to learn what needs to be done to a 4ft track to make it FFRA.

[venson]

Ever since, I have gone to FFRA, I am seeing the following issue:

Oil Spill / leak between the rear HUB and the Axle FLANGE (Though I tried arresting them with some homemade oil packing every time as there is no Oil packing available on shelf) as the bolts keeping the HUB and the Axle FLANGE either get loosen very often or they get broken, leaving their half inside the HUB itself.!!

Any remedy for this on a 4ft FFRA set-up???

Thanks,
Venson.

[Sudarshan]

Originally Posted by venson

Ever since, I have gone to FFRA, I am seeing the following issue:

Oil Spill / leak between the rear HUB and the Axle FLANGE (Though I tried arresting them with some homemade oil packing every time as there is no Oil packing available on shelf) as the bolts keeping the HUB and the Axle FLANGE either get loosen very often or they get broken, leaving their half inside the HUB itself.!!

Any remedy for this on a 4ft FFRA set-up???

Thanks,
Venson.

Originally Posted by U.B.Singh

Hello Santosh,
it may be interesting to note that the semi floating (Dana 44) vs full floating rear drive axle system(as found in the earliest Jeeps of the WWII era), can be incorporated into our jeeps with std. 4 ft.track.
To make things clear, it (FFRA) has a twin bearing hub setup, which allows the total vehicle weight to be borne by the differential housing tube, as common in commercial vehicles like trucks. The axle shafts are fully floating as the name suggests.

The reqd. modifications to switch over is what we need to learn correctly.

1. The legendary Dana 44 rear differential housing can be joined/attached with a spindle, (from the front diff), and a front hub carried by two bearings.(501349 or the later ones cannot remember the size right now).
2. The live axles in question being adaptable to 48in. track, could be sourced from a WWII jeep.
3. The most important thing that many such 'converters' ignore is the oil seal, at the crown side, which arrests the gear oil to be spun and brought to the hub by the axles.

I can say that a Dana 44 converted to full floating in the correct way is a bullet proof differential to use under adverse OTR conditions.
Please note that the old model axles came with 10 splines.
Jeepers with 19 should get a pair of 10 teeth bevels, before conversion. Any doubts are welcomed to be cleared.
All the best. with you always..................... UBS

hi all, It is quite correctly mentioned by Singhji, I have done this almost 18 yrs back, to my 540 ( 5 door steel body) & I am quite happy with it .
Also Singhji's third point is quite important , One needs to take out the tubes from the diff housing & get it machined to fit Oil seal ( from the crown side ).This is the answer to Vensons problame.
Very practical input from Mr. Singhji.
Yours ,Sudarshan
P.S. as for the studs getting loose & braking ,try going to 8 stud hubs. Also if you fit good Quality studs & fit them carefully ( properly centering the flange ) , vibretations are lessoned & they last long.

[venson]

Originally Posted by Sudarshan

P.S. as for the studs getting loose & braking ,try going to 8 stud hubs. Also if you fit good Quality studs & fit them carefully ( properly centering the flange ) , vibretations are lessoned & they last long.

I preferred to use bolts to keep the flange and the hub together, as i heard a local store keeper in Chennai saying that many of his customers keep complaining about Studs getting broken very often. I don't know about this personally.

Also, i have just 6 on a side, never I heard about 8...! Thanks.!
venson

[Sudarshan]

Originally Posted by venson

I preferred to use bolts to keep the flange and the hub together, as i heard a local store keeper in Chennai saying that many of his customers keep complaining about Studs getting broken very often. I don't know about this personally.

Also, i have just 6 on a side, never I heard about 8...! Thanks.!
venson

Hi, Venson, let me explain more (in reference to local practice here )
1) you can use over size studs ( thicker )
2) centering of flange : as the flange does not have any kind of guide for centering ( from inside ) it is required that they be fitted carefully.( mine is a 89 model & converted it to full floating in 91 or so . the material used then was what I got locally, but it still works after 1,10,000 kms. now I dont know if thease current flanges are self centering. I have never encountered this in the 40 odd year old Land Rover ! )
3) I think mahindras took care of this problame(full floating axcels) in their Commander model first. But this problame ( flange studs/bolts, rear ) prevailed in so many vehicles
Yours Sudarshan

[venson]

Is there any difference between the (both Front and Rear) Axles and their Differential housings of 550 and 540 and Major's than diff ratios......can experts comment on this pls.

Thanks,
Venson

[svsantosh]

Originally Posted by Sudarshan

One needs to take out the tubes from the diff housing & get it machined to fit Oil seal ( from the crown side ).

Mine leaked for a week even tho mech had put the oilseal on the crown side. Now it self fixed itself.

P.S. as for the studs getting loose & braking ,try going to 8 stud hubs

This is a great idea. This would be the bolero's/armada's latest 8 bolt hubs, right? Are the a direct fit on the old gen brake drums? Or is there no relation between 5/8bolt hubs and the new/old gen drums?

I will address the oil leak issue when I replace these hubs to the newer ones.

[Sudarshan]

Originally Posted by svsantosh

Mine leaked for a week even tho mech had put the oilseal on the crown side. Now it self fixed itself.



This is a great idea. This would be the bolero's/armada's latest 8 bolt hubs, right? Are the a direct fit on the old gen brake drums? Or is there no relation between 5/8bolt hubs and the new/old gen drums?

I will address the oil leak issue when I replace these hubs to the newer ones.

Santosh, Frankly speaking I am bit out of touch ,as far as the bolero, Armada issue is concerned so difficuilt to give proper advice on hubs used in Bolero etc.
But before armada/ bolero , 8 hole flanges & hubs were available here locally ( May not be from Authorised biin ,) as far as I remember .

But I forgot to tell one more experiance/ thing . there used to be a protective tin cap/ cover on the hub flange ( it is used for protection against dust in the Commander model ) It fits in 6 bolts/studs of the flange & there is a hole in center for bolt to fit in the axcle. Now my experiance is, if you keep the center bolt tightened , the chances of getting those 6 flange bolts/studs loose gets higher . So the Remedy is fix a front type cap ( only push fit ) Or remove the center bolt & shut the tin cap hole by welding & fix it in place.
I have put a front type cap on my jeep.
In short do not connect the axcle to the cover cap in any way.

As far as oil seals are concerned some times they take time to be seated properly on the moving parts ( its like running in )

But I will recomend going for oversized studs & modified cover caps
also this is not foolproof , as one needs to tighten/check frequently
This was a big issue once.
But I drove the jeep less after 99, & keep in touch less as the Land Rover became my prime mover. Issues like this never aroused in Landies.( My first landy was a 74 model quite Beaten, the current one is late 60's)


Yours Sudarshan

[jeepster]

Originally Posted by jeepster

one question for sir DHABHAR.BEHRAM .

what is the widest track available in mahindra .

i know of
classic (1996) track f/r 1250 weight capacity f/r 907/1134 kg
mm540dp (1997) track f/r 1290 weight capacity f/r 907/1134 kg
maxx (2004) track f/r 1443/1498 weight capacity f/r 1000/1700 kg
fj 640 (1997) track f/r ? / ? weight capacity f/r 1770/2300 kg

can any one answer my question .

& one more .

is it possible to get max 4x4 axles with 5.88 geared LSD's ?
maxx (2004) track f/r 1443/1498 weight capacity f/r 1000/1700 kg

[Red Liner]

If my memory serves right, the FJ (or FC) axles are some 56-57 inches in width.I have never heard of Maxx pickup's coming in a 4x4 configuration.

The commander axles will come in 53 inch config, but their rear differential is centered.

You can always buy the 5.88 ring/pinion and search for the axles/housing separately.

[SPIKE ARRESTOR]

Venky, Maxx Pickups are available in 4x4 variant also.

Spike

[Red Liner]

Originally Posted by SPIKE ARRESTOR

Venky, Maxx Pickups are available in 4x4 variant also.

Spike

Is the rear diff a center set-up?

The issue will however be: how many 4x4 Maxx pick-up's were sold, and how many more have ended up in the scrap yard.

Thus making the point of finding the Maxx 4x4 pick up axles a chore in itself.