[khan_sultan]

Originally Posted by DirtyDan

Khan, there is sometimes a big difference between N. American English and U.K. English. This may be a case. WHAT IS A BEADING exactly? It is still unclear to me.

I don't know if 'beading' is the correct english word or not, but the garage folks call it that.

One other word that I have seen in US based sites is 't-case mounts'

Here is a sample picture:

https://www.4wdfactory.com/store/pro...4256_thumb.jpg

[DirtyDan]

Okay, I've got the picture. I wonder if you could put heavy truck U-bolts around the T-case and hold it more securely to the chassis to keep it from moving around. This would prolong the life of your...er....mounts or beadings. You could put old pieces of tyre between the bolts and T-case to dampen the vibrations.

Some sort of metal strapping might work, too.

[gotzuk]

Shahnawaz,
The OEM T-case mounting has a tendency to give up under hard use.
Now with the reduction gearing, the torque has increased from stock and hence more abuse for the already overworked standard mount.
I reckon the added angle of the rear propellor shaft from the SPOA adds to the stress.
I would suggest a polyurethane mounting kit from Rocky Road or any other vendor for starters.
If your gypsy eats through that too then you would need to reinforce the transfer case mounting arms.

Cheers

[iceman91]

just a question:
what about getting PU ones made. they last longer and can take a lot of abuse

[khan_sultan]

Originally Posted by DirtyDan

... you could put heavy truck U-bolts around the T-case and hold it more securely to the chassis to keep it from moving around. ...

Ideally, the mounts should allow 'some amount of flex between the frame & t-case' The stock rubber allows for some amount of flex and that is sufficient movement to release the stress. If you have metal mounts and there is no flex available to release stress, then other things could fail -- like the arms could get ripped of the frame or in extreme cases I have heard t-case also getting damaged.

Originally Posted by gotzuk

...I would suggest a polyurethane mounting kit from Rocky Road or any other vendor for starters....

Originally Posted by iceman91

... what about getting PU ones made. they last longer and can take a lot of abuse

I am in process of figuring out the best 'Indian' way of achieving this Should provide a little flex and still be bomb proof in the trails.

The stock rubber mount is NOT a through bolt design. It is just kind of welded at the edges (see picture below -- red lines)



I am thinking of having a through bolt design on some hard rubber/PU and some good rubber washers. Then also thinking of beefing up the t-case arms with welding some additional angle iron there.

[iceman91]

ok if need help let me know. I know someone who makes PU mounts etc. if sample or design is provided in Bangalore

[khan_sultan]

@amit: This is the 'through bolt' design I have in mind and would want to get it done in PU or hard rubber

[Suresh Stephen]

The stock rubber mount is NOT a through bolt design. It is just kind of welded at the edges (see picture below -- red lines)

Attachment 115877

I am thinking of having a through bolt design on some hard rubber/PU and some good rubber washers. Then also thinking of beefing up the t-case arms with welding some additional angle iron there.

Shanavaz,
The stock mounts/beddings are normally moulded rubber with the mounting plates/studs. If feasible,Try adapting the engine mounts which are bigger. This design should be giving more flexibility than a through bolt design.
If your transfer case is made of aluminium alloy, avoid welding for strengthening. If not done carefully, it can create distorsions for the bearing bores. This may also require pre heating and post weld heat treatment to avoid cracks/defects. better think of a mechanical arrangement for strengthening
Suresh

[Alfa_Kilo]

Originally Posted by Suresh Stephen

Shanavaz,
The stock mounts/beddings are normally moulded rubber with the mounting plates/studs. If feasible,Try adapting the engine mounts which are bigger. This design should be giving more flexibility than a through bolt design.
If your transfer case is made of aluminium alloy, avoid welding for strengthening. If not done carefully, it can create distorsions for the bearing bores. This may also require pre heating and post weld heat treatment to avoid cracks/defects. better think of a mechanical arrangement for strengthening
Suresh

If going for a through bolt mod, you will require some elastic material (like PU) on BOTH the sides of the mounting bracket on the chassis. The layers would be: bolt head - big washer - PU bush - big washer - chassis bracket - big washer - PU bush - another big washer - TCase bracket - small washer - nyloc nut. This is a generic example, which may have to be modified.

Dont try welding on a cast Al case.

[siddartha]

the t case "arms", that shanavaz is talking about are mild steel sections/ members ,they are the support structures betweem the t case and the mounting(bedding) and in turn the chassis .

these arms are not integral with the t case housing , these m.s sections are bolted on to the t case housing ,

i think shanavaz wants to strenghthen these arms with additional welding, not the aluminium t case housing.

[DirtyDan]

Originally Posted by DirtyDan

You could put old pieces of tyre between the bolts and T-case to dampen the vibrations.

Originally Posted by khan_sultan

Ideally, the mounts should allow 'some amount of flex between the frame & t-case' The stock rubber allows for some amount of flex and that is sufficient movement to release the stress. If you have metal mounts and there is no flex available to release stress, then other things could fail -- like the arms could get ripped of the frame or in extreme cases I have heard t-case also getting damaged.

I can picture some engineers trying to figure out what the right amount of flex is in this case. Sounds like they got it wrong in any case. What I envisioned was kind of a cradle of U-joints or strapping with old tyre strips forming the mattress in which the T-case does its thing. If you go ahead with the patent on my idea I've got share-zees on the royalties.

[khan_sultan]

the t case "arms", that shanavaz is talking about are mild steel sections/ members ,they are the support structures betweem the t case and the mounting(bedding) and in turn the chassis .

these arms are not integral with the t case housing , these m.s sections are bolted on to the t case housing ,

i think shanavaz wants to strenghthen these arms with additional welding, not the aluminium t case housing.

Perfectly explained sir. The arms (the long arm) will be welded with an additional pieces of 'angle iron' and the short one with a iron plate kind of setup.


Also, had been to a trail yesterday/today and broke one more t-case beading/mount. This time it was the 'short arm' t-case beading. I had replaced 2 that broke last week and they are holding fine (2 from the long arm mounts).

Now, this needs immediate attention as there is no fun in trail driving with a busted t-case beading mount. Also, this can cause damage to other parts of t-case/drive train if driven hard with a busted t-case mount.

Time to work on strengthening the t-case arms + getting 'bomb proof' beadings/mounts.

[GoSlow]

Originally Posted by khan_sultan

Also, had been to a trail yesterday/today and broke one more t-case beading/mount. This time it was the 'short arm' t-case beading. I had replaced 2 that broke last week and they are holding fine (2 from the long arm mounts).

Shanawaz - this could be due to the SPoA conversion. Allan (xtreme power) had the same problem with his Gypsy in the Chandigarh OTR. He has the same suspension set up as yours but no low gearset. He broke his while articulation I think.

[Brutus]

What about drive shaft angle? It has been known to cause extreme stess. As we all know, cardon cross shafts have limited travel, and by lifting, more stress is caused, and that could also be a reason for the mounts breaking off.
If its really that, you can try using double-cardon cross shafts, but you'll have to change the differential pumpkin angle for that, and in the front axle, that is a major difficulty since you'll have to take in mind the kingpin anlge too. Anyways, the Force front end uses a double-cardon and that could be used.

[khan_sultan]

I plan to put 2 more mounts along the long arm of the t-case mount and that will make 4 mounts -- over 1ft of the arm.

That should help along with a reinforcement plate on lower side of the mount (to hold the 2 extra mounts)

Till this is done, I have a dozen of these and 3 are always there in the Gypsy.