[gbanavar]

Vishwas,
Thanks for your concerns.. I will figure out how to attach two supports in the front after all the fittings are done. I know welding is the way to go, but I wonder if "bolt on" supports will be sufficient? I also need to find spots that don't interfere with other things such as the pedals in the front.

I am glad the hood lock concept helped you out. I have a K&N filter and a brand new battery that will be easy pickings without the lock - better safe than sorry!

Originally Posted by vishwaschettri

@ gbanavar - I don't know anything about roll cage design but from my knowledge of steel structures I can tell you very confidently that the front portion of your roll cage wont do you any good in case of a roll over. In fact it may prove to be more disastrous than not having one. Even after the gussets Irfanulla has suggested it is not going to help you. The overhang is just too much to be stable. You need to go the major way and have downtubes coming down in the front.
Between a sincere thanks from me for that hood lock idea of yours. I got the same done to my jeep after the my jeep battery got flicked a few days back.

cheers
vishwas

[sreerajunnithan]

Originally Posted by gbanavar

Ideally, the roll bar or cage should be attached to the Chassis, but a lot of people just bolt it to the body.

Hello gbanavar,

I don't think it's a good idea to attach the roll cage to chassis. The reason is, The Jeep's chassis is flexible; one of the reasons for outstanding articulation Jeeps has. By attaching a roll cage to chassis, you are changing the structural design of the vehicle, which will prevent the flex of chassis. Roll cage should be always attached to the body using a thick steel plate. There is a very good discussion about this somewhere in the forum.

Thanks
--Sree--

[S@~+#0$#]

Originally Posted by sreerajunnithan

Hello gbanavar,

I don't think it's a good idea to attach the roll cage to chassis. The reason is, The Jeep's chassis is flexible; one of the reasons for outstanding articulation Jeeps has. By attaching a roll cage to chassis, you are changing the structural design of the vehicle, which will prevent the flex of chassis. Roll cage should be always attached to the body using a thick steel plate. There is a very good discussion about this somewhere in the forum.

Thanks
--Sree--

Hey Sreeraj, how are you doing buddy? Not very active these days.

Yes, even I read the discussion about rollcages, but can't find them. If I remember right, it was fazal who was explaining how a roll cage should be. Or was it Behram? Not sure, but in the below thread, there are some nice pics which would give one an idea of a good roll-cage design. Check out post #82 on below-mentioned thread:
http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/4x4-te...mpleted-6.html

[sreerajunnithan]

Originally Posted by S@~+#0$#

Hey Sreeraj, how are you doing buddy? Not very active these days.

Hey Santhosh,

How are you. Yes i was not very active; But i wanted to participate the last OTR. Unfortunately, My front shock absorber pearch gave away . I had to custom buid it since it was not available off the shelf. I was spending my friday with my Jeep and Mechanic.

Thanks
--Sree--

[gbanavar]

O.K. here is the story..

As you know my engine was rebuilt and I insisted that there be no "idle cooling-in" of the engine. We have been driving the Jeep for short distances to the machine shop where I was getting the roll bar fabricated. The engine was running well except it was consuming a lot of petrol. The old spark plugs were still on and we changed that to new NGKs and after that it seemed to be running fine.

We also installed an electric fuel pump (on the chassis, close to the tank, away from the engine compartment heat) and it would start up with half a crank. So far so good.

Yesterday, I took it for a ride, for maybe 2 to 3 KMs and the first half was perfect. Then, it stalled a bit and shut off. When I cranked it up, it started right away. I thought there may not be enough petrol (and my fuel guage is not working well). So I filled in petrol and after a going about another KM or so, it shut down again, but started up after waiting a minute or two. Then after driving another half a KM, it shut down and would not start up again.

Had to call my engine mechanic, who came over and started the check up. Fuel flow was OK. The delco unit seemed fine. The coil was a little warm, so we let it cool down. The radiator and the engine were normal temperature. My temp guage did not go beyond 60 deg. Spark plugs were very dark, so he cleaned it and we replaced the jet (125) to 115 (I had asked them to set it to 125 earlier since there is a need for more fuel flow during the initial stages of the engine run-in.

Everything checks out OK, but the engine is not cranking. Even when it does, it dies down when we try to raise the throttle.

So, the Jeep is back at the mechanics and need to figure out what is happening. Needless to say, the mechanic says, since we did not let the engine for "cooling" we are having these problems.

Any suggestions??

[S@~+#0$#]

Originally Posted by gbanavar

Everything checks out OK, but the engine is not cranking. Even when it does, it dies down when we try to raise the throttle.

Have you tried cleaning the air jet in the carb? On the LHS side of the Solex carb, there is a 12 size Brass bolt. Clean the jet with a needle or wire. Put it back and try cranking. If this fixes the problem, it means dust is getting into the carburetor. This could be because of dirty airfilter or inefficient fuel filter. Let us know how you go. Good luck.

[gbanavar]

Originally Posted by S@~+#0$#

Have you tried cleaning the air jet in the carb? On the LHS side of the Solex carb, there is a 12 size Brass bolt. Clean the jet with a needle or wire. Put it back and try cranking. If this fixes the problem, it means dust is getting into the carburetor. This could be because of dirty airfilter or inefficient fuel filter. Let us know how you go. Good luck.

Hi Santhosh,
We cleaned the jet yesterday, but it did not help. So, today the carburettor has been dismantled, cleaned throughly (they did find some googh inside) and will be fitted back in a short while. I'll let you know if that will fix the problem.

[gbanavar]

The cleaned carburettor did not help starting the engine, however new spark plugs did. Even though I had changed the plugs, and it seemed to be working OK, they were changed to the shorter variety. After this change, the engine has started cranking again, but the motion seems to be jerky. We suspect that it is a problem with the coil over heating.

Today we also procured a new UCLA fuel pump and a Lucas coil. Those will be changed tomorrow and hope to see a major improvement.

[whicked wheels]

Originally Posted by gbanavar

The cleaned carburettor did not help starting the engine, however new spark plugs did. Even though I had changed the plugs, and it seemed to be working OK, they were changed to the shorter variety. After this change, the engine has started cranking again, but the motion seems to be jerky. We suspect that it is a problem with the coil over heating.

Today we also procured a new UCLA fuel pump and a Lucas coil. Those will be changed tomorrow and hope to see a major improvement.

Hi Gbanavar it should be the coil as we faced the same problem with my friends cj3, we changed the coil and it was running well again.

[harjeev]

Originally Posted by gbanavar

Today we also procured a new UCLA fuel pump and a Lucas coil. Those will be changed tomorrow and hope to see a major improvement.

Hey buddy
How much did the new UCAL fuel pump cost you and is it easily available in bangalore?
I was trying to source it but without any luck.
Also if you can inquire are SOLEX Carburetor's also easily available down south???

[S@~+#0$#]

Originally Posted by harjeev

Hey buddy
How much did the new UCAL fuel pump cost you and is it easily available in bangalore?
I was trying to source it but without any luck.
Also if you can inquire are SOLEX Carburetor's also easily available down south???

Hey Harjeev,
You and I are\were facing similar issues with regards to Fuel Pump :-). The UCAL fuel pump is not easily available in Bangalore. So, even I have messaged Ganesh for the same. I know a place who has diaphragms for the UCAL Fuel Pump. So if I find an UCAL, I don't need to worry about Fuel Pump for a long time :-).

With regards to the Solex Carb, I'll see if I can find one for you. But why do you need a new one, they are easily serviceable. Also, I was told the carb is the same as the Amby and Fiat, not sure though. But one thing I know for fact is that the packing kits are the same as Amby. Jets also fit but the CJ3B needs larger size ones to allow more fuel. Initially I used jet size 115 from an Amby and then I found the Original Jeep Carb packing kit itself and am so using 140 now. The performance is amazing but don't ask me what the fuel average is.

[Jaggu]

Originally Posted by gbanavar

Yesterday, I took it for a ride, for maybe 2 to 3 KMs and the first half was perfect. Then, it stalled a bit and shut off.
==========
So, the Jeep is back at the mechanics and need to figure out what is happening. Needless to say, the mechanic says, since we did not let the engine for "cooling" we are having these problems.

Any suggestions??

I have to completely disagree with your mech, this is definitely an ignition issue more than anything else. Atleast the plugs are pointing towards this. First thing is try with another plugs. Then move on to coil wires, coils etc etc

Then only jump on to the carb. Now comes the fuel pump, check if it is getting HOT, then you have an issue with the pump and need to find a better one.

Originally Posted by gbanavar

The cleaned carburettor did not help starting the engine, however new spark plugs did. Even though I had changed the plugs, and it seemed to be working OK, they were changed to the shorter variety. After this change, the engine has started cranking again, but the motion seems to be jerky. We suspect that it is a problem with the coil over heating.

Today we also procured a new UCLA fuel pump and a Lucas coil. Those will be changed tomorrow and hope to see a major improvement.

I think this should sort out.

Sorry i was not following your thread last few days, so couldnt poke my nose in

If your engine has to show any negative feelings towards a proper run in, first thing will be the heat. If that happens, you have a very tightly set up rebuild and no way but to do a static run in.

Ensure that you warm up the engine before taking her out for runs, one you will know if things are fine and ready for road, two will not cause undue wear on a newly set up engine.

[gbanavar]

Originally Posted by harjeev

Hey buddy
How much did the new UCAL fuel pump cost you and is it easily available in bangalore?
I was trying to source it but without any luck.
Also if you can inquire are SOLEX Carburetor's also easily available down south???

Originally Posted by S@~+#0$#

Hey Harjeev,
You and I are\were facing similar issues with regards to Fuel Pump :-). The UCAL fuel pump is not easily available in Bangalore. So, even I have messaged Ganesh for the same. I know a place who has diaphragms for the UCAL Fuel Pump. So if I find an UCAL, I don't need to worry about Fuel Pump for a long time :-).

Hi Harjeev,
I did not have any trouble getting the UCAL fuel pump. I paid somewhere around 835 Rs.

Santosh is also looking for one (or two). I am sorry I did not get a chance to talk to the guy I bought it from today, but I will find out over the weekend and let you know. I will find out how many units he can get us. I can ship it to you.

Originally Posted by whicked wheels

Hi Gbanavar it should be the coil as we faced the same problem with my friends cj3, we changed the coil and it was running well again.

Coil and fuel pump has been changed.. and the vehicle has been starting fine. However, on pressing the accelerator initially, there is lack of power and need to depress the accelerator all the way to get power. So, every so often the engine shuts down. Is this a problem with the fuel/air mixture? The spark plugs were black with soot so I reduced the jet size from 125 to 115 a couple of days ago and today from 115 to 105.

Originally Posted by Jaggu

Sorry i was not following your thread last few days, so couldnt poke my nose in

If your engine has to show any negative feelings towards a proper run in, first thing will be the heat. If that happens, you have a very tightly set up rebuild and no way but to do a static run in.

Ensure that you warm up the engine before taking her out for runs, one you will know if things are fine and ready for road, two will not cause undue wear on a newly set up engine.

Hi Jaggu,
The more you butt in the better for me.. I can use all the help I can get. I am not backing down from running it in the right way! The engine is not heating up beyond normal.

Apart from the ignition/starting/power issues, we have another significant issue that has cropped up. The gear is griding on 2nd gear and it is slipping. Even though the gear box was cleaned, the gears checked and put back together, they did not tear it down enough to look at how much the synchronizer rings were worn.

It is looking like we are going to have to dismantle the tranny! Oh boy! I am being told that this should not take more than two days. I am giving it another week!

[whicked wheels]

Coil and fuel pump has been changed.. and the vehicle has been starting fine. However, on pressing the accelerator initially, there is lack of power and need to depress the accelerator all the way to get power. So, every so often the engine shuts down. Is this a problem with the fuel/air mixture? The spark plugs were black with soot so I reduced the jet size from 125 to 115 a couple of days ago and today from 115 to 105


Hi gbanavar Try using the 140 size jet, when we brought the jeep it was fitted with the fiat jet we changed it to 140 and ther was a vast differencein perfomance.

[S@~+#0$#]

Hi Ganesh,
Has the issue been sorted out yet? Like we discussed over phone recently, your spark plugs are showing signs of running a rich mixture. You will also be able to make this out from the smell of the exhaust gases. I think you should use the 125/140 Jet and get your mechanic to adjust the air screw to increase the air flow. I am not sure if this is the only problem though. Could be your ignition coil, timing etc.

Originally Posted by whicked wheels

Hi gbanavar Try using the 140 size jet, when we brought the jeep it was fitted with the fiat jet we changed it to 140 and ther was a vast differencein perfomance.

Yes, there is a huge difference in performance between the 140 and the 125. I would suggest you use 140 atleast for your run-in period. After your run-in, you can go in for 125 jet as it is a reasonable combination of both economy and performance. I am using 140 on my 3B and it literally leaps forward when you tap the throttle.