[docfreak]

the problem traced to a faulty fuel line,then after correction drove it fr 176 km non stop , no hassles, it was a pleasure in this great weather

[harjeev]

Originally Posted by docfreak

the problem traced to a faulty fuel line,then after correction drove it fr 176 km non stop , no hassles, it was a pleasure in this great weather

176km !!! thats quite commendable Sharat!!! Where did you take it to?? And what was the problem? Please share for novices, especially me?
And generally speaking when you are cruising on the highway what speeds are you driving at? I cruise at about 60ish (measured on the GPS). But when I take it to 70-75 the vehicle cries to bring the speeds down, I was talking to Rabinder Singh RBsir and he said that 70-80 is a decent speed to drive at! Whats your experience.
BTW how was the monsoon ride you attended? Any pics/ report. Please share
Cheers

[docfreak]

harjeev, kindly stop calling urself novice .
monsoon ride was great, we finished 18th among 75 participants. itwas our 1st rally and thoroughly enjoyed.
176km was upto dadri and beyond. 60 - 70 is good cruising speed on military specs, in the civilian specs u could do 10kmph higher easily. so it depends on ur gearing ratios, diff ratios and tyre size.
the rubber tube of my fuel line was cracking and leaking , putting extra load on the pump, corrected that only and the effect was great.
next i am doing up the whole fuelline this weekend .
skid plate sir???

[harjeev]

Hey sharat my response in BOLD

Originally Posted by docfreak

harjeev, kindly stop calling urself novice .
Buddy as far as mechanicals go I am still a novice. There is still loads that I do not know and full life is a learning exercise.
monsoon ride was great, we finished 18th among 75 participants. itwas our 1st rally and thoroughly enjoyed.
This is really good. Theweather must have been great. 18th position and 1st rally!!! Congrats!!! Which vehicle did you take? Scorpio or the Swift??
176km was upto dadri and beyond. 60 - 70 is good cruising speed on military specs, in the civilian specs u could do 10kmph higher easily. so it depends on ur gearing ratios, diff ratios and tyre size.
OK! If the weather is good I don't even mind doing 40-50 and love the stares I get on road. But in the heat of the summers 70-80 ish also fells slow. On sunday I went for the OTR(recce actually) and the weather was just perfect. It was actually one of our best excursions till date. (Weather wise). My 1st OTR till date done while it was raining!!!
Lest hope it rains on the day of the event too.

the rubber tube of my fuel line was cracking and leaking , putting extra load on the pump, corrected that only and the effect was great.
next i am doing up the whole fuelline this weekend .
Great!!! Let me know how it goes.
skid plate sir???
Will have to buy it as I discoverd that the skid plate on my CJ3B is missing too. I remember it was there before I gave it for painting. I think that they must have forgotton to put it after the vehicle was put together after the paintjob. Anyways I foundout that the skid plate on the 3B & the MM550 is the same. So now I have to but 2 from Mayapuri

[V-16]

Originally Posted by docfreak

1. after 40kmph the whine of the gear box, is there a way to cut it down?

DOnt think you can mate. Its called "Jeep Music" you will learn to enjoy it and live with it

harjeev, its great to see u enjoying your ride now and specially since we salvaged it from a sell it today state of mind. get a new top, and lets plan out the roll cage

The roll cage from the Classic fits perfectly. I have done it. I also found a set of inertia seat belts from the Tavera and have them fixed to my CJ. Will put pics up later, when the CJ returns from a tune up.

[harjeev]

Originally Posted by V-16

DOnt think you can mate. Its called "Jeep Music" you will learn to enjoy it and live with it

I agree with Gogi. The gear box whine is there in all 3B's that I've driven or ridden in. This sound or sweet music is even there in the war model jeep GPW & MB's!!!

The roll cage from the Classic fits perfectly. I have done it. I also found a set of inertia seat belts from the Tavera and have them fixed to my CJ. Will put pics up later, when the CJ returns from a tune up.

Gogi I was looking at something like what Tejas has done on his CLASSIC. I want the complete driver cabin protected and am leaning towards that. However I like the rollcage design of the ICON
Here are some pics of what I am looking for and would get in done when I change the front & rear differentials and put bigger tyres

[docfreak]

this monsoon i am seeing rust creeping in on my body tub , which was new when put last year. any remedies for it witout a major paint job, as its just starting while 99% of the body is great.

harjeev: why changing ur diff ratios? when u use it only for otr the mil specs are the best.

gogi: how much would such a roll cage cost?

[harjeev]

Originally Posted by docfreak

harjeev: why changing ur diff ratios? when u use it only for otr the mil specs are the best.

Hey Sharat
I am not changing the diff ratios but am thinking of swaping the current axles with the MM550 front & rear axles. The reason I asked you the ratio question a couple of days back was as I wanted to know what is the best ratio configuration for 31" tyres.

[Jaggu]

Clean the tub (sand down) and apply a primer layer and then cover the inside (passenger area) and underbody with good anti rust from 3M, Wurth etc. Apart from that, ensure you keep the inside of the jeep clean and leave the jeep to dry without any mats after its washed or if its drenched. This is what i plan to do after the monsoon season, when i get both the front floor board's patched up.

[docfreak]

jaggu : that all has been done when i was painting it in the first place last year. now small patches of rust are beggining at places where the water usually flows froom , etc . planning to scrape them specifically and coat them silicone and then paint it over . whats ur take on this?

harjeev: i was speaking to ubs the other day and he suggested something brilliant , that u change the gear ratios of 1st and 2nd lower down, keeping the 3rd as it is , that ensures u get usual cruising speed but higher torque in the lower cogs, also upgrade to higher tyres alongwith, that ways u dont need to change axels either and u get the otr and road combo spot on .

today i noted that my fuel needle is tipsy , its swaying like a piss drunk bugger. any reasons known specifically?

also it seems my bettery aint getting charged ......this jeep at times gets on my nerves , but the minute it sounds up its seductive revs i slip head over heels again

[harjeev]

Originally Posted by docfreak

harjeev: i was speaking to ubs the other day and he suggested something brilliant , that u change the gear ratios of 1st and 2nd lower down, keeping the 3rd as it is , that ensures u get usual cruising speed but higher torque in the lower cogs,

This is certainly good news. Any idea what would the ratios be after changing the 1st and second gear ratios???

also upgrade to higher tyres alongwith, that ways u dont need to change axels either and u get the otr and road combo spot on .

Sharat the reason I want to change the axles of the 3B to that of the MM550 is

1. I get 3" more track width (CJ3B is 48" & MM550 is 51"
2. Disc Brakes as standard on the MM550 axles. So I would just have to add the brake booster and I have disc brakes on my 3B
3. Rear LSD on the MM550 axles

But the primary reason is the wider width as I will be increasing the ride height of the vehicle I would have to compensate that with increase in the track. So I am getting 3" with wider axles and 4" with wider tyres. Still have to workout what would be the track width from the negative offset rims.
Now what I am just concerned with is how to I change the diff ratio of MM550 which is 4.88 to 5.38, which is currently on my CJ3B???? Any know how on this??

today i noted that my fuel needle is tipsy , its swaying like a piss drunk bugger. any reasons known specifically?

My the fuel needle in my CJ3B has never come out of its drunk state so Ive stopped bothering about it.
I just do a rough calculation each time I have to take it for OTR. Each OTR I consume fuel worth 900-1000 bucks. So I fill up 500 bucks worth of fuel the evening before the OTR and another 300 when I reach Gurgaon and 200 after the OTR. The reason I do not fill up the fuel all at once is starts to spill out of the tank from the cap. Need to find a work around this. Ive tried insulating it with plastic but it still leaks on obstacles.

also it seems my bettery aint getting charged ......this jeep at times gets on my nerves , but the minute it sounds up its seductive revs i slip head over heels again

have you checked the tension of the fan belt?? I had a similar problem once and the fan belt was all work out. Replaced it and now it works like a charm.

[Jaggu]

Originally Posted by docfreak

jaggu : that all has been done when i was painting it in the first place last year. now small patches of rust are beggining at places where the water usually flows froom , etc . planning to scrape them specifically and coat them silicone and then paint it over . whats ur take on this?

I haven't tried silicone yet, but if its small area esp where water channeling is happening, then best is to first clean it well and then ensure water flows out and doesn't collect (edges shouldn't be there), and then redo the paint and rust protection in that area.

Originally Posted by docfreak

today i noted that my fuel needle is tipsy , its swaying like a piss drunk bugger. any reasons known specifically?

also it seems my bettery aint getting charged ......this jeep at times gets on my nerves , but the minute it sounds up its seductive revs i slip head over heels again

Check the electrical s especially the grounding, both the issues might be related. I have replaced the tank, float inside the tank and fitted a matching meter for the float. After that meter is pretty accurate. Are you running alternator or dynamo? I strongly recommend an alternator upgrade.

Originally Posted by harjeev

My the fuel needle in my CJ3B has never come out of its drunk state so Ive stopped bothering about it.
===========
The reason I do not fill up the fuel all at once is starts to spill out of the tank from the cap. Need to find a work around this. Ive tried insulating it with plastic but it still leaks on obstacles.

Refer my reply above, best method if you want a reliable fuel gauge. Ensure the fuel float and meter are of same type and make. Total cost will be under 700-800 bucks max.

Regarding leak, i think a brand new cap and filler pipe is enough. I had the same leak issue when i bought DwArF but with the new tank and piping in place i now do tank fulls and can do accurate mileage calculations also

[docfreak]

harjeev: for changing ratios, u need to get the tooth and spline count as u desire , its not all that difficult, rather not at all.
i also do tank full and calculate my avg fe, so get a new cap .
the fuel gauge had an earthing problem as suggested by jaggu and now taken care of .

jaggu: i am using a alternator already.

installing an overflow bottle for the radiator today. will keep updating the progress.
the fuelline seems to be working brilliantly as of now .

[Jaggu]

And my fuel gauge, temp gauge etc fuse started blowing up yesterday Anyways same small grounding issue at the meter which was fixed and now aok.

It's a jeep thing alright!

[Torque-ative]

What will be the best tyre upsize for the Cj3B.
Not that I have exploited the full potential of the NDMS already but,..still.

No power steering, hence something in the sensible bandwidth of say 185 - 205 width.
It has to be a out and out off-roading tyre,...with little or no on-road use.