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-   -   Towing a broken down 4x4 (https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/4x4-technical/78590-towing-broken-down-4x4-2.html)

I think Spike is saying the vehicle won't move on its own power (towing vehicle).

You mean 4WD-Lo right?

Yes, thus i was asking about FWHs for rear tyres. Maybe we should carry spare hubs just in case of such a scenario...

Yes spike you are confusing!!!

You mean to say that a vehicle with the 4x4 shifter in neutral won't move while getting towed? Why? My jeep does and so do gypsies.

Also, when we are talking about broken down 4x4s; so the question of them getting out under their own power does not arise. Thus, putting in neutral. (both the gear and transfer case)

2WD-LO = 4WD-Lo with FWHubs at Free.

The rear axles take up the all the Torque developed at the T-Case.

Engine to Gear Box to T-Case 50:50 Split (Front:Rear with FWH at Free) to Diff 50:50 Split (Left:Right ideally with lockers)

Regards,

Arka

Slightly OT :

In general while towing the only way to avoid such jerks is for the towed vehicle driver to be equally aware and involved in driving. Suppose the towing vehicle in changing gears there is bound to be a slack and subsequent jerk.

To avoid this the driver of towed vehicle has to always keep the tow rope tight. I use slight handbrake to do this and have towed vehicles out of sand and on highways for a long distance using very thin ropes which otherwise would have broken.

Similarly when braking it is better that the vehicle being towed applies brakes more than the towing vehicle. In fact with proper coordination small braking can be entirely handled by the towed vehicle.

All this to keep the towing rope "taut" and avoid jerks and sudden pulls that tend to break the tow ropes. Also avoids messy tangling where the rope itself gets tangles in the front axle of the towed vehicle.

Yes Sree we have to seriously think about this, Jaggu your idea and Drawing for tow bar please.

I like this one also, will be more sturdy at the jeep end. Mine is a simple design similar to what delhi 440 has. Sree added universal joint to the design to make it more flexible, ie it will move in both horizontal and vertical plain.

Attaching some ideas from inet http://www.jedi.com/obiwan/jeep/flattow.html

Some more designs http://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/to...ost112457.html

The tow bar in the 440 was fabricated by fellow bhpian 'renegade'. Apart from numerous short distance towing of other jeeps, it was used in a long drive from Delhi to Jaipur for towing a Ford GPW with another 440. And it comfortable did 80-90 on the highways without any problem. I never knew about a fixed tow before that and seems this arrangement is really the best option for towing an offroad vehicle to an OTR spot or for similar applications.

A similar discussion happening here as well:

http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/4x4-ex...own-4x4-2.html

See links to a few designs i researched on the net:

Halfords Steel Tow Bar | Products | Auto Express

2 TON 1.8 MTR RIGID STEEL TOW BAR POLE / TOWING ROPE on eBay (end time 30-May-10 17:15:00 BST)

2 Tonne Tow Bar & Damper - Screwfix.com, Where the Trade Buys

The advantage of a single rod type tow bar over the triangular one is that it can fit all vehicles. If you need to tow another vehicle which doesn't have a couple of front D shackles, then it's a problem.

I'm planning to get one fabricated using a pipe and a couple of loops. Similar to the ones used by the police towing guys.

The circled parts could be replaced by the Prop shaft U-Joint. Simple and easy



Could you please ask Renegade to share the drawings?

And the disadvantage is, you need to have a driver in Towed vehicle. We can make it universal at-least for Jeeps. Intead of that Bumper adapter, it should wrap over the bumper and should be Bolted.

Thanks
--Sree--

rigid tow bars are the best for haulage medium and long distance
for short distances you can use a steel cored rope or steel rope itself

i have helped out a friend in the past with a standard slack nylon rope but frankly that is not recommended. shear strength is nowhere near sufficient to pull another vehicle along.

The prop-shaft UJ is probably designed more to handle torque (turning moment) than longitudinal forces. Please check this aspect before deciding on this option.

How about rod-end joints/rubber bushes sleeved in a pipe. These would allow some movement in a 3D plane. I had got these fabricated for the traction bar in my Gypsy using rubber bushes from Omni/WagonR.

This is not exactly same, but would not similar ends work in a tow-bar?

Is the universal joint designed to withstand stretching and compression forces which is generated while pulling a vehicle? Its designed to withstand twisting (torque) force only isn't it?

I don't know the answer for the above, but hope you are clear about it.

See the tow bar design and the links i provided are for towing vehicles without a driver in the towed vehicle. So the tow bar is designed in such a way that the towed vehicle also steers along with the tow vehicle.

In our case i think we need a simpler, but a sturdy design which will connect both the vehicles.

So coming back to the discussion a box section or a round bar as in Khan's design can be used. Its the attachment end's and the length we need to work out. If you notice its a pin type hook thats used to attach in front, we need to see if something can be cooked up with a D shackle kinda design which can be connected to the tow hooks which most of our jeeps come with.

The universal joint was just an idea, we dont need to make it so complicated.

EDIT

D shackle idea is already incorporated in this http://www.autoexpress.co.uk/product...l_tow_bar.html

Khan saab coming to think about it the sway bar end might be the perfect solution :D will have some damping also lol

My parents are in UK and i've asked my brother to order one of these and send it down. I think it will take care of the problems mentioned earlier.

And it's only 20pounds. (cost, not weight :D)