[fazalaliadil]

Originally Posted by FerozKhan

I like reading about your builds in these threads, do you still have this jeep or you have sold it already?

Feroz Khan,

Thanks. This one was made with specifics in mind, its for my personal use, hence no plans to sell.
Soon I will be updating here with a few more pics.
Regards,

[fazalaliadil]

A few things were not completed to meet the AKC and EXAMM deadline, which are now done except for the radiator shroud.
Regards,








Rear seat

Antennae, folded.

For a 2.5 liter engine under the hood.

Air intake hoses wrapped with (adhesive) aluminum tape for water fording.

GB skid plate before AKC and EXAMM

...and after.

[VLOCT]

This is simply an amazing jeep. Superb. Kudos.

[DHABHAR.BEHRAM]

Dear Fazal - hello after a long time. The degassing tank overflow hose as equipped is incorrect. You must remove the pressure cap off the radiator, seal it completely and then provide a bleed from the top of the radiator into the degassing tank. In the present configuration, the system will not work as per its design intended guideline. XD3 engine is etremely sensitive to cooling system integrity. Please correct immediately.

What is a master cylinder dust cover (boot) doing at the back of the vehicle, holding three rods together? .

And, by the way, I would have preferred this Jeep with the round shaped original fenders and the Gypsy wheel rims painted in black color.

Best regards,

Behram Dhabhar

[Sudarshan]

Is it OK to run the alternator on water-pump pulley ? I mean wrt water-pump bearings life ??

BTW the colour shade is stunning , is plain but something very very different . It has certainly personalised the Jeep & making it stand out clearly .

Sudarshan

[fazalaliadil]

Originally Posted by DHABHAR.BEHRAM

Dear Fazal - hello after a long time. The degassing tank overflow hose as equipped is incorrect. You must remove the pressure cap off the radiator, seal it completely and then provide a bleed from the top of the radiator into the degassing tank. In the present configuration, the system will not work as per its design intended guideline. XD3 engine is etremely sensitive to cooling system integrity. Please correct immediately.

What is a master cylinder dust cover (boot) doing at the back of the vehicle, holding three rods together? .

And, by the way, I would have preferred this Jeep with the round shaped original fenders and the Gypsy wheel rims painted in black color.

Sir,

Yes it been long, nice to see you back esp. on my thread.

Attaching a drawing of the coolant flow set up. Can you kindly specify the reason why this is configuration will not work to its optimum?

The master cylinder boot is Ingenuity.

I too would have liked to have the round fenders but had to opt for this as I had to accommodate the JCB lights with guards on them, so I got them fabricated 1 1/2" wider than the original and decided not to use the fender flares.

Originally Posted by VLOCT

This is simply an amazing jeep. Superb. Kudos.

VLOCT,

Thank you for your kind appreciation.

Originally Posted by Sudarshan

Is it OK to run the alternator on water-pump pulley ? I mean wrt water-pump bearings life ??

BTW the colour shade is stunning , is plain but something very very different . It has certainly personalised the Jeep & making it stand out clearly .

Sudarshan,

The alternator on water pump pulley is an OEM setup.

Thanks for your compliments on the colour, it looks different because it is done in matte and dual tone apart from the shade.
Regards,

[headers]

Originally Posted by fazalaliadil

Attachment 819347

Sir, IMO, why it is not optimum is:

1: The reservoir should be as close to the radiator as possible.
2: Water vapor goes thru the tube and condenses in the reservoir
3. A long tube would mean condensation halfway and the effectiveness is lower!!
4. Also, the radiator cap should be spring loaded and matched to release the excess pressure - i'm sure you know it better. I use a 7 bar cap for a 2.1 XDP 4.90 engine.

Would like DB sir to correct.

The above is from some experience with old gen vehicles!!

[DHABHAR.BEHRAM]

Originally Posted by headers

Sir, IMO, why it is not optimum is:

1: The reservoir should be as close to the radiator as possible.
2: Water vapor goes thru the tube and condenses in the reservoir
3. A long tube would mean condensation halfway and the effectiveness is lower!!
4. Also, the radiator cap should be spring loaded and matched to release the excess pressure - i'm sure you know it better. I use a 7 bar cap for a 2.1 XDP 4.90 engine.

Would like DB sir to correct.

The above is from some experience with old gen vehicles!!

Dear Vikram - my comments are as follows. Your point no 1 - distance does not matter, height matters. The reservoir must be the topmost point of the cooling system. Period. Therefore point nos 2 and 3 are redundant. Your point no 4 is absolutely incorrect. The cap on the radiator plays absolutely no role in a degassing tank system. In present configuration, it will hamper the flow of coolant from the radiator to the tank. I need absolutely no resistance between the radiator and the tank. I had tried orifices but they did not work. I have the complete database in my head. Fazal's vehicle runs because the water pump is centrifugal and not positive displacement. If it was positive displacement, one of the hoses would have failed immediately after the engine was started.

Dear Fazal - yes, it's been a long time we have not met. Also, I am missing all the "offroad action". Maybe, now with something else? . The "bug" is starting to bite me now!

The radiator cap on the radiator is not required, it discontinues the flow through the circuit, please knock it off. Fabricate and fit a small metallic pipe to the radiator top tank at its topmost location and bleed the radiator into the degassing tank directly. Is the radiator top tank non-metallic? In that case, it is not so easy. For our prototypes, we get it molded from the tank manufacturer, the die is changed permanently. For one vehicle, you should be able to manage smething locally known as "plastic welding". Please call me in case you need assistance. In the worst case, as you and I want absolute reliability from our cars, you may need to go back to the copper/brass radiator. Then there is no issue to bleed the system.

Best regards,

Behram Dhabhar

[kavesh55]

Originally Posted by DHABHAR.BEHRAM

Dear Vikram - my comments are as follows. Your point no 1 - distance does not matter, height matters. The reservoir must be the topmost point of the cooling system. Period. Therefore point nos 2 and 3 are redundant. Your point no 4 is absolutely incorrect. The cap on the radiator plays absolutely no role in a degassing tank system. In present configuration, it will hamper the flow of coolant from the radiator to the tank. I need absolutely no resistance between the radiator and the tank. I had tried orifices but they did not work. I have the complete database in my head. Fazal's vehicle runs because the water pump is centrifugal and not positive displacement. If it was positive displacement, one of the hoses would have failed immediately after the engine was started.

Dear Fazal - yes, it's been a long time we have not met. Also, I am missing all the "offroad action". Maybe, now with something else? . The "bug" is starting to bite me now!

The radiator cap on the radiator is not required, it discontinues the flow through the circuit, please knock it off. Fabricate and fit a small metallic pipe to the radiator top tank at its topmost location and bleed the radiator into the degassing tank directly. Is the radiator top tank non-metallic? In that case, it is not so easy. For our prototypes, we get it molded from the tank manufacturer, the die is changed permanently. For one vehicle, you should be able to manage smething locally known as "plastic welding". Please call me in case you need assistance. In the worst case, as you and I want absolute reliability from our cars, you may need to go back to the copper/brass radiator. Then there is no issue to bleed the system.

Best regards,

Behram Dhabhar

Hi Fazal- This works wonders, because when I got the delivery of my Premier Padmini S1 (know the discussion is on 4X4s, but its not off topic) which came with a different type of radiator and a degassing tank. My uncle was confused, nor was the dealer of any help. We switched on the car with the AC but the temp. needle did not move, we thought the temp gauge does not work. The system was cooling so efficient. It finally moved. Even after driving in bumper to bumper traffic for 25-30 kms the needle would move just above normal.
Any guesses who designed this for the Premier Padminis ?

The integrity of the cap, more so the rubber is important for the system to work.

[DHABHAR.BEHRAM]

Dear Kavesh - thanks for your comments, I feel nice. In 1993, there was a "discussion" in PAL Kurla on degassing tank for Padmini S1 with factory fitted AC. Only our the then GM(R&D) Mr.G.Y.Bhatt and I said it could be done, everybody else threw up their hands. We did it. You also know that all my classic fiats (four to be exact) are equipped with degassing tanks.

Some things are so obvious but get missed out due to "various reasons".

Best regards,

Behram Dhabhar

[A M]

I know I'm going but kindly accept my apologies for it.

Originally Posted by DHABHAR.BEHRAM

[b]. Maybe, now with something else? . The "bug" is starting to bite me now!



Best regards,

Behram Dhabhar

Sir, please elaborate. The suspense is killing me. Anything from Tata stable?
I'm eagerly waiting.

[headers]

Originally Posted by DHABHAR.BEHRAM

Dear Vikram - my comments are as follows. Your point no 1 - distance does not matter, height matters. The reservoir must be the topmost point of the cooling system. Period. Therefore point nos 2 and 3 are redundant. Your point no 4 is absolutely incorrect. The cap on the radiator plays absolutely no role in a degassing tank system. In present configuration, it will hamper the flow of coolant from the radiator to the tank. I need absolutely no resistance between the radiator and the tank. I had tried orifices but they did not work. I have the complete database in my head. Fazal's vehicle runs because the water pump is centrifugal and not positive displacement. If it was positive displacement, one of the hoses would have failed immediately after the engine was started.
..
The radiator cap on the radiator is not required, it discontinues the flow through the circuit, please knock it off. Fabricate and fit a small metallic pipe to the radiator top tank at its topmost location and bleed the radiator into the degassing tank directly. Is the radiator top tank non-metallic? In that case, it is not so easy. For our prototypes, we get it molded from the tank manufacturer, the die is changed permanently. For one vehicle, you should be able to manage smething locally known as "plastic welding". Please call me in case you need assistance. In the worst case, as you and I want absolute reliability from our cars, you may need to go back to the copper/brass radiator. Then there is no issue to bleed the system.

Sir, Its wonderful to have your POV. Now can you please clarify these points?

1. "What is the role of a raditor cap?"
2. "Why is it spring loaded?"
3. "Why does a MM540 overheat if one uses a wrong rated cap?"
4. Does changing the system to Fazal's type [Mahindra Maxx radiator from Tata Toyo] and a centrifugal water pump solve OH issues?

And what is the part number for this centrifugal water pump?

And can I add an AC [yes Airconditioner] to the system? The common belief is that the MM540 engine cannot take the additional load of the AC and 9 out of 10 vehicles have OH issues!

Thanks a ton !

[ex670c]

[quote=DHABHAR.BEHRAM;2531491 I have the complete database in my head. Fazal's vehicle runs because the water pump is centrifugal and not positive displacement. If it was positive displacement, one of the hoses would have failed immediately after the engine was started.[/quote]

Hello Sir,

AFAIK no automotive Water Pump is a PD pump, for the obvious reason, of the higher pressure generate irrespective of the volume of the fluid.

Even if the Plumbing were as you have mentioned a PD Pump would resulted in one of the hoses failing.

Please correct me if I'm wrong.

Regards,

Arka

[headers]

A gentle reminder for DB sir!!

Originally Posted by headers

Sir, Its wonderful to have your POV. Now can you please clarify these points?

1. "What is the role of a raditor cap?"
2. "Why is it spring loaded?"
3. "Why does a MM540 overheat if one uses a wrong rated cap?"
4. Does changing the system to Fazal's type [Mahindra Maxx radiator from Tata Toyo] and a centrifugal water pump solve OH issues?

And what is the part number for this centrifugal water pump?

And can I add an AC [yes Airconditioner] to the system? The common belief is that the MM540 engine cannot take the additional load of the AC and 9 out of 10 vehicles have OH issues!

Thanks a ton !

Originally Posted by ex670c

Hello Sir,

AFAIK no automotive Water Pump is a PD pump, for the obvious reason, of the higher pressure generate irrespective of the volume of the fluid.

Even if the Plumbing were as you have mentioned a PD Pump would resulted in one of the hoses failing.

Please correct me if I'm wrong.

Regards,

Arka

Thanks arka for clarifying that!

Arka, can you share info on the radiator cap, spring etc?

Why cant I fit an AC to the MM540 2.1 DP engine? Is it so poor that it cant take a little extra load of a compressor pulley?

[Jaggu]

Isn't there a slight confusion here? If am not mistaken there are many varieties of coolant system.

Some Egs I have noticed: 1) maruti 800/omni/gypsy type where a pressurised radiator and a simple overflow tank. 2) tata safari kinds where there is pressure cap but has a degas tank instead of overflow tank. 3) swift vdi: straight from radiator (DB also mentions the same) to pressurised degas tank.

All 3 works, which one is more efficient and can handle the need for the engine is what matters.