Team-BHP - Prowler ' THE POCKET ROCKET '. Hit or Miss?
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@ headers:- what is the dia of the fan you recommended & which company/make ?
planning to fit one .

Sudarshan

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sudarshan (Post 2613817)
@ headers:- what is the dia of the fan you recommended & which company/make ?
planning to fit one .

Sudarshan

One does not have much choice as the Fiat Palio and Skoda Fans are made for those radiators. I am against changing blades in such fans as the performance becomes subjective!

What one could do is to:

1. Mount the fan as central to the radiator core as possible.
2. Have a shroud setup to direct the airflow for the entire breadth of the radiator.

If 1 is not possible and you are forced to mount the fan at one side of the radiator, then make a custom shroud which seals the radiator and directs airflow to the entire breadth and length of the pipes.

there has been a new stock of aluminium radiators for mm540's itself in RK Corp, GP Road, Chennai. costs 3500/- (approx). these al radiators are perfect fit for xdp,xd3p etc.,. and i believe that the performance is also better than 3 core copper radiator.

reg the electric fan, ask any a/c technician to make a square bracket to fit 2 nos. 120W fans.(side by side - along the breadth). make one fan to run always and another tripped by the thermostat.

Hi, Need to know the purpose of these 2 tubes from the pump. I know one is connected to the air intake to open a butterfly. What is the other tube for and where is it supposed to be connected. What about the second butterfly? how does it open up. Should the electric fan be connected to an thermostat or can I let it run continuously. Thanks.

https://picasaweb.google.com/1146916...15515093073890

^^ Doc: I dont know about the tubes..

W.r.t the electric fan: You can run them based on:

1. Thermostat control with electric switch override
2. Direct electric switch ON / OFF [This is better if you wanna do deep water crossing as if the fan runs the fan blades will break]
3. Have one fan driven by the fan belt and thermostat [dual clutch fan] and the other complete electric ON/OFF by switch!

I was having the third option initially as you would have noticed Vikram, but now the fan belt driven option is not possible. Iam towards seperate on-off switch for both the fans, one in front and the other behind the radiator. But, my only concern is if someone uses the Prowler ( Very unlikely ;-) ) and forgets to switch on the fan, then the engine will be running completly without any fan. Thanks.

Quote:

Originally Posted by drjones (Post 2628655)
I was having the third option initially as you would have noticed Vikram, but now the fan belt driven option is not possible. Iam towards seperate on-off switch for both the fans, one in front and the other behind the radiator. But, my only concern is if someone uses the Prowler ( Very unlikely ;-) ) and forgets to switch on the fan, then the engine will be running completly without any fan. Thanks.

Doc, then use option 3, with a dual clutch fan which comes on automatically on thermostat..the other fan, well..hardly many would notice and wanna switch it on in the terrain we drive on..better still, warn the driver who drives your vehicle about the fan before giving the keys :D

Whats the status on the upgrade? Engine fitted on Prowler? Taken for a spin? Should I visit you? :thumbs up

Quote:

Originally Posted by headers (Post 2628897)
Doc, then use option 3, with a dual clutch fan which comes on automatically on thermostat..

EDIT: Clarity : Use the electrically operated dual clutch fan !

Quote:

Originally Posted by headers (Post 2560062)
I think isuzu G1 is way better than a SD25.

For that matter any SOHC / DOHC will offer better control on fuel, power and engine tweaking..

SIR , you didnt even know there was a engine named G1 until i told you , nor you drove the sd25, how did you come to this conclusion, can you please explain with pics and your experience with both the engines.

Quote:

Originally Posted by headers (Post 2628525)
^^ Doc: I dont know about the tubes..

W.r.t the electric fan: You can run them based on:

1. Thermostat control with electric switch override
2. Direct electric switch ON / OFF [This is better if you wanna do deep water crossing as if the fan runs the fan blades will break]
3. Have one fan driven by the fan belt and thermostat [dual clutch fan] and the other complete electric ON/OFF by switch!

The diesel kiki is a inline pump with a pneumatic governor, the tube (rear most) on the pump controls the amount of fuel with respect to the amount of air from the intake.

OT: There is a 69 model CJ3B with SD25 engine for sale.

Can i go ahead & fulfill my dream of being a Jeeper. Are SD25 parts available in the market?

Spoke to dhanushks & he advised to send some photos. Unfortunately the owner is not allowing to take any photos.

The SD25 comes with a mechanical wire pull type engine cutoff system which seems rather obsolete.All the engines i have seen here in the local scrap market have this.Is there a way of changing to an electronic cut off or do we have to replace the FIP to a rotary system like the CAV or MICO pump for this.

Quote:

Originally Posted by ex670c (Post 2556695)
Hi Sandeep,
Lets calculate the effect of Gearing. IIRC SD25 generates 16.5Kgm

1) 3.986 X 2.46 X 5.38 X 15.5Kgm (XD3P) = 52.75 X 15.5Kgm = 817.6Kgm

2) 3.986 X 2.46 X 4.88 X 16.5Kgm (SD25) = 47.8 X 16.5Kgm = 789Kgm

3) 3.986 X 2.46 X 4.27 X 16.5 (SD25) = 41.86 X 16.5Kgm = 690.8Kgm

Regards,
Arka

@ Arka , @ Sandeep;
I have a MM540 with Toyota 14B engine. Was planning to change the diff ratio to either 4.27 or 3.73 so that i can get better speeds at lower engine RPMs. Based on your calculations i have come up with the following figures :
OE DP 4.90 Engine with 4.88 : 588 kgm
14B with 4.88 : 1186 Kgm
14b with 4.27 : 1038 kgm
14b with 3.73 : 907 kgm

Now based on the above figures will changing my diff to 3.73 give me equal offroading capability when compared to a XD3P with 5.38 ratio ?
My driving is mostly on-road, dont want to go too high and then suffer on terrains. Kindly advice.

Quote:

Originally Posted by nc1bad (Post 3034406)
@ Arka , @ Sandeep;
I have a MM540 with Toyota 14B engine. Was planning to change the diff ratio to either 4.27 or 3.73 so that i can get better speeds at lower engine RPMs. Based on your calculations i have come up with the following figures :
OE DP 4.90 Engine with 4.88 : 588 kgm
14B with 4.88 : 1186 Kgm
14b with 4.27 : 1038 kgm
14b with 3.73 : 907 kgm

Now based on the above figures will changing my diff to 3.73 give me equal offroading capability when compared to a XD3P with 5.38 ratio ?
My driving is mostly on-road, dont want to go too high and then suffer on terrains. Kindly advice.


Hi NC1Bad,

Whats the use of putting a bigger engine when gearing will kill it.

You can try a few intermediate diff-ratio and tyre combinations to get better road speed.

4.27/4.3 or 4.55:1 with 31" Tyres.

Regards,

Arka

Quote:

Originally Posted by ex670c (Post 3034719)
Hi NC1Bad,

4.27 with 31" Tyres.

As Arka suggested, this is also the combination I use and its working out well. 3.73 will make the whole conversion pointless to some extent

Cheers,
Adi


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