[trammway]

The new steering box has been installed on the Jeep successfully.

The LSD installation and FFRA conversion is on swing today. The jeep's rear axle housing has been completely removed and the senior jeep mechanic(40 years of experience) is fixing the differential in place.

While the mechanic's followed everything mentioned in the manual accompanied in the LSD, there was some issue in having the inner side (differential side) oil seal in place for the FFRA conversion. I wanted to know if there is a specific oil seal that needs to be put in ? I bought the original M&M spec inner oil seal but it doesn't sit on the differential housing tube, looks like the OD of oilseal is not getting fixed.

Here are some WIP pics:

[trammway]

Yahooooo! The oil seal issue also resolved. I have got an hint from Mr.UBS and Santosh.

What I did is to take the inner diameter of the axle housing pipe and searched the oil seal shop for suitable one. The picture is an illustration of the original inner oil seal compare to the reduced size that is actually required for my Jeep's housing. Did anyone come across similar problem while converting from SFRA to FFRA?


There you go the actual outer dia of 2inches is a perfect fit for the axle housing, so the FFRA differential side oil seal required is 2inches outer diameter size.


This is how the new oil seal will be installed (just kept it to show how this will look after installing, the one outside is just posted there for better view)


This picture shows the outside side oil seal that is properly installed.


Steering column and pull and push rod is not connected too.


meanwhile the mechanic is also removed the broken front differential cover, this where our SwastikVijay's innovative pumpkin guard is going to be placed.


I'm just two days away from riding this new avatar of Explorer. Ah.. I hope I will also get a chance to install the Janaiah's spring plates before this Jeep comes out of the Garage.


As the rear LSD is made of Auburn and their differential lubrication suggestion goes this way:

All Auburn Gear Performance Limited-Slip Differential designs have been extensively teated with high quality non-synthetic 80W90 hypoid gear oil treated with Auburn Gear friction additive part number, 504102.

3 oz. of additive will treat 1 quart of oil.
6 oz. of additive will treat 2 quarts of oil.
9 oz. of additive will treat 3 quarts of oil.

To avoid differential clutch chatter(noise) and for optimum performance, use the oil described and this additive in the prescribed amount. Use of other additives and oil types may cause differential clutch chatter.

For better understanding: 1 US quart = 946.352946 milliliters

Hence approximately for 2 liters of oil I need to use 6 oz. which is provided along with the LSD box. The only change I'm expecting here is to have 80W90, I will be using 80W145 Shell Spirax oil. I hope I'm not messing up with the lubrication of LSD.

[svsantosh]

Originally Posted by trammway

Yahooooo! The oil seal issue also resolved. I have got an hint from Mr.UBS and Santosh.

I had too..!! Because...

Steering column and pull and push rod is not connected too.
Attachment 478420

Now I am confused...!! See my steering box pic.



My box/connecting rod does NOT resemble the one you have, I dont have that CV type of joint, why? When we spoke last time I remember you saying both the boxes resemble the same...

Now I remember Jaggu saying something about getting 1st-gen Armada box and it was different (lesser joints) than what I have... any inputs.

[Jaggu]

Small correction mine is box from Rane and it has CV type like Trammways, this allows body flex NOT to be transmitted and hence lesser chance of steering rod breaking. It has more links

[trammway]

Originally Posted by svsantosh

I had too..!! Because...



Now I am confused...!! See my steering box pic.

Attachment 478428

My box/connecting rod does NOT resemble the one you have, I dont have that CV type of joint, why? When we spoke last time I remember you saying both the boxes resemble the same...

Now I remember Jaggu saying something about getting 1st-gen Armada box and it was different (lesser joints) than what I have... any inputs.

The original Mahindra Classic (my older steering box) from XLO and it had the universal star joint, but the one I bought now is the similar type from Rane.

I could see your steering is the same type of MM540 that is called fixed column type without the star joint.

[svsantosh]

Originally Posted by Jaggu

Small correction mine is box from Rane and it has CV type like Trammways, this allows body flex NOT to be transmitted and hence lesser chance of steering rod breaking. It has more links

Originally Posted by trammway

I could see your steering is the same type of MM540 that is called fixed column type without the star joint.

Thx guys, my next mod should be in this area... the only other 'minor' moving part other than the engine that is not yet opened up/reworked on my jeep.

[svsantosh]

Congratulations on the 'probable' 1st M&M Classic (SWB with 4ft axle) retro-fitted with a 8-bolt - dowelled - separate flange/axle - FULL FLOATING REAR AXLE....!!

[trammway]

Originally Posted by svsantosh

Congratulations on the 'probable' 1st M&M Classic (SWB with 4ft axle) retro-fitted with a 8-bolt - dowelled - separate flange/axle - FULL FLOATING REAR AXLE....!!

WAIT WAIT .. you are too fast. Santhosh the conversion is not finished yet. I have some hurdles to cross.

When I thought I had everything to convert the FFRA, I found some issue on the axle length that was inserted to the differential assembly. It was very visible by a normal eye. Ah I wasn't wrong the long axle side is longer than the short one's exposed area when inserted.


Hmmm, that was a alarm for forthcoming issue. Anyway I asked my mechanic to fix the axle housing and start assembling the rest of rear axle.

When he completed the task the longer side(left hand side) was perfect fit and the issue as mentioned the shorter side axle was half an inch lesser than what is required.



I went on searching for a suitable axle and found the next available size is 24", I know this will still be a problem as 1/2" will be outside the flange.


As expected now the shorter side axle is 1/2" extra, I don't know the solution or workaround now. However my mechanic told me he will have some remedy for this issue by tomorrow.


Does anyone have had similar issues in FFRA conversion ?

[svsantosh]

If longer what is the issue? Just cover it with the nagaraj/grease cup, right??

[trammway]

Originally Posted by svsantosh

If longer what is the issue? Just cover it with the nagaraj/grease cup, right??

I wish I could have been that easy but in real the grease cup sits above the axle edge so we could bolt the cup with flange. Now as I have 1/2" axle projecting outside the flange surface, the cup is unable to be seated properly.

Awaiting for call from mechanic to find a fix.

[svsantosh]

Open question to all.

My jeep is currently running a FFRA (modified) from a probable CJ500 rear axle assy. The long and short axles are 32 and 23 inches respectively. (FYI - I have lockers in the rear diff).

Siva's jeep is currently having a LSD in the rear. The axle assy is the same 4Ft track as mine. Instead of the 6-bolt design, he is using a 8-bolt dowel hub.

Why would not the 32-23 combo work for him? Would there be difference in the spindle length? Or would the LSD have something to do with it? Please share your inputs...

---------Edit---------

If nothing works you still have solved the puzzle nearly, just weld the flange and the axle and make it a bolero look alike It should work like Suresh sirs. Please give him a call and ask to comment on the last pic...

[trammway]

Originally Posted by svsantosh

Open question to all.

My jeep is currently running a FFRA (modified) from a probable CJ500 rear axle assy. The long and short axles are 32 and 23 inches respectively. (FYI - I have lockers in the rear diff).

Siva's jeep is currently having a LSD in the rear. The axle assy is the same 4Ft track as mine. Instead of the 6-bolt design, he is using a 8-bolt dowel hub.

Why would not the 32-23 combo work for him? Would there be difference in the spindle length? Or would the LSD have something to do with it? Please share your inputs...

---------Edit---------

If nothing works you still have solved the puzzle nearly, just weld the flange and the axle and make it a bolero look alike It should work like Suresh sirs. Please give him a call and ask to comment on the last pic...

Santhosh this the same question I had in my mind aswell. You know what the Jeep Guru called me knowing my query instinctively without me leaving a word with him started talking on this, the surprising information is that once again I'm getting a reference to your jeep thread.

http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/4x4-ve...ml#post1875207

I think the culprit is the thrust block as mentioned in the post above. The picture that you posted is referred below, as everyone mentioned I need to remove the thrust block for FFRA, Locker or LSD setup.

While I'm writting this post the Mechanic has made some alteration to the nagaraja/grease cup to accommodate the extra projected part of the axle and really not removed this thrust block or ground the axle. good that he didn't ground the axle, I think I can do this experiment of removing thrust block on my next service. Does anyone have another problem foreseen if I drive this axle 1/2" project as shown in the previous post? Or the non-removal of thrust block could do some damage to my LSD ?

That was the thrust block from Santhos's Jeep

[svsantosh]

Hey...!! I now remember Raju saying that this part "has" to be removed to accomodate the FFRA.

[Jaggu]

Originally Posted by svsantosh

Hey...!! I now remember Raju saying that this part "has" to be removed to accomodate the FFRA.

Yeah even i remember writing about this when you were doing this mod? But what does the thrust thingie do in the first place?

[trammway]

Originally Posted by Jaggu

Yeah even i remember writing about this when you were doing this mod? But what does the thrust thingie do in the first place?

I understood from Jeep Guru that the Thrust Block is placed in there as to avoid colliding the axles in SFRA setup by introducing a gap(the part resembles a Thrust Block designed to take thrust loads from the side gears). This is the same reason why the thrust block is not present in front differentials as always the front differentials are full floating type.