[trammway]

Originally Posted by trammway

Now watchout this space for ideas to increase ground clearance and better supension of Mahindra Classic(another trial and error starts). After water wash I will measure the current ground clearance and install the new setup then measure the optimised one for your review.

This is the current clearance figures recorded from my explorer, I hope to optimize this to an extent by today or tomorrow latest.

• Front bumper to ground - 17"
• Front differential to ground - 7" (Least clearance)
• Front spring plate anchor point to ground - 8"
• Front wheel arch to tyre - 6"
• Front wheel Well (upper side) to tyre - 7.8"

• Rear foot rest edge to tyre - 19"
• Rear differential to ground - 7.4" (see the difference in spring plates to justify this number)
• Rear spring plate anchor point to ground - 7" (difference in length of the U bolts contributed to this change in comparison with front anchor point)
• Rear wheel well inner area to tyre (upper side) - 10.5"

Let me see the differences if any after my new trial today. All these measures are taken while the Jeep is positioned on a concrete surface on my house so error could be around 1 mm or so for the water flow angle on the surface.

Also I believe that the stock Mahindra Classic's ground clearance figures may or may not be matching to this numbers as the age of suspension plates and the previous recampering work done could have contributed to this numbers. Hence people considering this figures for matching to your Mahindra Classic act with your own judgement.

PS: The spring plate configuration for CJ3B, CJ340 and Classic were different even though they were built on the same SWB platform.

[trammway]

Guys,

There is a small delay in the Janaiah's spring plate installation, I will do it on this weekend as to search for U clamps.

The innovative springs are hidden inside this gunny packs. Waiting to be unwrapped soon..


Meanwhile today I had visited the stainless steel fabricator for designing the snorkel duct and shortlisted the following item for tomorrow's work

2 1/2 inches diameter with 1.6mm wall thickness stainless steel pipe of 6 ft


The following picture illustrates the pipe routing without affecting the foldable windshield or lower vent door. I'm planning to keep the snorkel head little below the top portion of windshield as to get better view from inside the cabin so I could avoid the snorkel getting struct with tree branches or any other hindrance in OTR situations. If anyone has a better idea for routing the duct, please do post your suggestion at the earliest.



One more reason for routing the duct this way is to keep if any water that gets into the snorkel setup to stay on the duct itself on the bottom portion. Don't ask me how will I clean the water stagnated in the duct pipe, may I believe that the Safari snorkel head which I have procured will allow a little water getting into to the duct which will automatically evaporate as and when I drive on a regular day.

Look at the following pictures which explains how the water is drained by Safari snorkel (inherited by design)



Most probably in a day or two the snorkel installation will be completed, I'm so excited to see the explorer is progressing to it's next avatar.

[Tejas@perioimpl]

I'd suggest you also go in for branch deflectors / limb risers. Will help deflect the branches above the windshield and will keep both you and your snorkel safe.

[trammway]

Originally Posted by Tejas@perioimpl

I'd suggest you also go in for branch deflectors / limb risers. Will help deflect the branches above the windshield and will keep both you and your snorkel safe.

branch deflectors/limb risers? Interesting, but I'm unable to understand. What is that ? could you elaborate a bit?

[Tejas@perioimpl]

Originally Posted by trammway

branch deflectors/limb risers? Interesting, but I'm unable to understand. What is that ? could you elaborate a bit?

They are basically a pair of taut wires (usually covered with a plastic sleeve and sealed to prevent water seepage inside) which run from the outermost tips of the fenders to the top of the windshield. They deflect branches towards the top of the vehicle which would have otherwise hit the windshield and snapped into your face.


Trust me, they work very well in situations like this:


For people like us with doorless vehicles, it is a boon.

[trammway]

Originally Posted by Tejas@perioimpl

They are basically a pair of taut wires (usually covered with a plastic sleeve and sealed to prevent water seepage inside) which run from the outermost tips of the fenders to the top of the windshield. They deflect branches towards the top of the vehicle which would have otherwise hit the windshield and snapped into your face.
Attachment 485529

Trust me, they work very well in situations like this:
Attachment 485530

For people like us with doorless vehicles, it is a boon.

Looks like an innovative idea. I never read why did you Jeep equipped with that wire rob in front.

Now I have serious questions, In extream conditions We all knew if a wire in full tension get snapped, this wire rob may fly toward the passenger or driver causing more dangerous as there is no energy absorber or that kind. I assume if it is a metal sheet or material like that will not have that much of an impact if it is snapped. What is your take on it ?

[Tejas@perioimpl]

Originally Posted by trammway

Looks like an innovative idea. I never read why did you Jeep equipped with that wire rob in front.

Now I have serious questions, In extream conditions We all knew if a wire in full tension get snapped, this wire rob may fly toward the passenger or driver causing more dangerous as there is no energy absorber or that kind. I assume if it is a metal sheet or material like that will not have that much of an impact if it is snapped. What is your take on it ?

It's fully covered by a plastic sleeve. It will take away all the energy.

Also, it can't fly behind - it'll go side-aways.

Also, it's not that taut. There's a half cm play on either side.

[trammway]

Originally Posted by Tejas@perioimpl

It's fully covered by a plastic sleeve. It will take away all the energy.

Also, it can't fly behind - it'll go side-aways.

Also, it's not that taut. There's a half cm play on either side.

Still unable to understand why not inner side, why do you think it will fly only side away ?

could you also post some close up picture (if you have) on the mud guard anchor point area of this branch deflector setup?

[Tejas@perioimpl]

Originally Posted by trammway

Still unable to understand why not inner side, why do you think it will fly only side away ?

Same reason why you stand behind the winch, not in front or to the side when winching. The wires here are also in front of you.

Originally Posted by trammway

could you also post some close up picture (if you have) on the mud guard anchor point area of this branch deflector setup?

I'll hunt to see if i have them.

Also just noticed another thing:

You mirrors are not original classic ones. My classic mirrors had a long arm and thus they extended beyond the snorkel and could be used. Check for the clearance in your case.
I also think you have too many bends in your snorkel design. I'd just not use the passenger side lower vent and pass the snorkel above that area.

[trammway]

Originally Posted by Tejas@perioimpl

Same reason why you stand behind the winch, not in front or to the side when winching. The wires here are also in front of you.



I'll hunt to see if i have them.

Also just noticed another thing:

You mirrors are not original classic ones. My classic mirrors had a long arm and thus they extended beyond the snorkel and could be used. Check for the clearance in your case.
I also think you have too many bends in your snorkel design. I'd just not use the passenger side lower vent and pass the snorkel above that area.

Yes, The mirror used in my Classic is from Kaiser CJ5. I was scouting around to look for a original classic mirror rod but failed in my search.

You are absolutely right about the bends used in the snorkel design, however I feel it will not matter as much as an exhaust pipe bends. Because the snorkel is used for intake air and as far as the flow of the air is not hindered it should be ok. May be I will swap the 90 degree angled one with somewhat curved design while going for actual fabrication based on availability of the bends (I must say here, the whole pipe is not going to be single piece, I know a single piece is good one to have, but then bending them to our interest needs more equipment and availability is always a question hence the work is going to be cut weld model)

More over I use the Jeep as my daily drive and fighting in Chennai traffic heat is a real issue in classic with soft doors etc. Though the lower vent is not going to give relief to my body sweat, but the inner platform area often get benefited out of the lower vents, hence I don't want to loose it.

[Tejas@perioimpl]

Found one snap of the limb riser fender attachment:

[trammway]

Guys,

Last week was completely went off the schedule for all my plans, I had to visit Tiruvannamalai for some transport purpose with the Jeep and had some engineers to check my latest modifications on the drive terrain



as an update

The Stainless Steel snorkel duct was put on hold as lots of Tig welding and cost is also flying high, and quoted as high as Rs.4,500/- labour charges for the duct welding work. The cost of stainless steel pipe worked around Rs.3,000/- including bolts, nuts, bolt strip, L bows etc.

Now I'm re-considering the same and searching for a good workshop who can bend the pipe instead of cut and weld it.

About the Janaiah's spring plates, I was off the schedule as there was a delay in finding the right U clamps as the standard ones will not straight fit with the new design.

Some how I have sourced all the required U clamps today, so hopefully in a day or tow the Janaiah's Spring plates will be implemented in my Explorer.


Got 4 numbers of 7" U clamps for front left side and front rightside one + 1extra, 4 numbers of 8" U clamps for rear both sides(actually 71/2" is what required) and 2 numbers of 7" big U clamps for the front differential side(actually required only one)

[svsantosh]

No wonder I didnt hear from you. Was wondering what happened!!

8K~ + is not worth it just for the plumbing of a snorkel, of course the finishing will look cool. Get it done in bangy like khans/swastiks, should work out cheaper.

[GrayBerry]

Originally Posted by trammway

Guys,

There is a small delay in the Janaiah's -- two the snorkel installation will be completed, I'm so excited to see the explorer is progressing to it's next avatar.

trammway:
Just thought of sharing.
If you can increase the diameter of the horizontal section of the tube, which will create a pressure drop there by trapping heavy particles/dust, if it helps actually.
Also few more suggestions in the picture enclosed.

[trammway]

Originally Posted by GrayBerry

trammway:
Just thought of sharing.
If you can increase the diameter of the horizontal section of the tube, which will create a pressure drop there by trapping heavy particles/dust, if it helps actually.
Also few more suggestions in the picture enclosed.

I was thinking on the same line, however I didn't find a suitable workaround to make the foldable windshield and lower vent untouched with any other option. But the design as I have posted above shows some 90deg bends, but these bends will be round shaped to avoid any air dam getting created internally.

But the only think that I feel should save me is the Safari Snorkel, actually it is very difficult to the water to make it into the duct pipe. Secondly about the dust, yes you have a point.

I did think on the same aspects as well, my search for solution to prevent dust getting into the toilet trap is ended in a pre-filter setup at air ram or snorkel face or a pod filter setup with in the safari snorkel.

Here are some pictures that I found from internet that is to address the issues with dust getting into the safari snorkel setup.