[mitrajdeep]

Hi Santosh,

I think the drain plug is there to let out the water that condenses in side the tank.

It should be located at the lowest part of the tank where the water will accumulate.

You could get a tap type drain plug that will serve the purpose of both- draining the water and letting out the air.

[madhkris]

Santosh, I guess you need to make a provision to release the compressed air. I have a similar air compressor in my dental clinic where we can let out the compressed air with a valve. I guess that's what you are asking for. I can get pics if you need.

[svsantosh]

Originally Posted by mitrajdeep

It should be located at the lowest part of the tank where the water will accumulate

Thanks... i agree. Problem in my case is i did not want to begin with a large tank and look silly!, just enough to store some air (in a higher pressure as compared to tyre) while filling a wheel - reason is I assumed a direct comp connection will not fill a tyre. Lower press will not enter higher press? So I ended up with this small tank - but to make the drain plug work I need to mount it sideways - lets see... for now no changes...

Originally Posted by madhkris

Santosh, I guess you need to make a provision to release the compressed air. I have a similar air compressor in my dental clinic where we can let out the compressed air with a valve. I guess that's what you are asking for. I can get pics if you need.

Doc, no issues in letting out (manually) the stored air - i just need to press the tiny release button on the drain switch, problem is i need a auto-release valve that will let-off, say @ 100Psi for example! I know where to get it, but dont want to complicate this setup for now, and let me get some funds for this 1st...

[crazyjeeperk]

Originally Posted by svsantosh

Kumaran - how does the drain valve work? I dont think it is a safety-auto-release valve... it can ONLY be pushed inside but it would not move a inch outside. when I pressed it inside, all the compressed air came out, but there is no provision to let out the air - i think that is a different part!

I think the below is what you have installed in your tank(the one in pic resembles the same) but i don't understand why you say there is no provision to let out the air, normally the plug of a PSV should move outside to open up letting out the air inside the tank and then automatically close when the pressure comes to normal. The ring at the top is to do the same manually.

Air Compressor Safety Valve 11 Bar 1/4" BSP | Tank | Vessel | Receiver

A safety valve is a valve mechanism for the automatic release of air from a pressure vessel, or other system when the pressure or temperature exceeds preset limits.
May also be known as the following:-
Pressue safety valve (PSV)
Pressure relief valves (PRV)
Relief valve
Safety relief valves


Regarding the Drain Plug , this is mainly to release the condensed water droplets which settles at the bottom of the tank(sorry i mistook the drain valve is to drain the compressed air inside). It can be a simple screw type or a ball valve setup.

[Sudarshan]

Originally Posted by svsantosh

Bhai - what I 'assumed' a safety valve is actually a drain plug - see this post 3rd pic

http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/4x4-ve...ml#post2721541

ya looks like its a drain plug ,
do you know from which vehicle the tank came from ??

i agree, i need to get a safety valve next, for the time being i am going to limit usage to max 75~ Psi in tank. Hope someone can tell me the rating this tank was designed for.

I have no Idea of the max pressure it can withstand but by common sense your asumption ( 75 ) looks ok

Also, sudarshan bhai - what is the use of a drain plug?

I dont have a correct scientific explanation for this

But the practice tells that water does get accumulated in air tanks & it needs to be drained specially when you want to do paint work , for tyre filling its not so hard & fast . In high moisture areas & where compressors are used for painting a water separator bottle is also used at the out junction .

PS - the tank's OE position was horizontal with the current inlet being the place for the drain bolt (see prev page) and that used to face the ground... now in this setup nothing is serving as a drain bolt!! what to do? Let me keep this setup for some time and considering its need i will move to a slender, more longer, lorry-ka-tank...

you can ignore the drain plug issue for short time ( for trial purpose ) but a safety valve is a must

Fit another T at the tank In port where the line from compressor is fitted in a L - where this safety valve can be fitted

Originally Posted by crazyjeeperk

[b]The safety valve will also serve this purpose i hope !

No Sir I dont think so , the drain plug has to be at the bottom & if you fit a safety valve there it wont open except at the mark on which its set

also No Point in fitting the safety valve at the bottom -- it will ruin its spring mechanism by rusting

Originally Posted by svsantosh

Kumaran - how does the drain valve work? I dont think it is a safety-auto-release valve... it can ONLY be pushed inside but it would not move a inch outside. when I pressed it inside, all the compressed air came out, but there is no provision to let out the air - i think that is a different part!

this is probably your drain valve ,but now you have changed the tank position it needs to be put at the bottom

P S tomorrow I will post pic of my workshop compressor indicating its various fitments ( whats what etc )

[Sudarshan]

here are the pics of my Small half hp compressor , I am using it for some 15 yrs & use it to fill air in tyres , for cleaning parts ( air gun blow ) & for spray painting.

there are certain things which are common in principle in compressors ( Specifications may change )

have a look
#1 Note the drain plug at the bottom of the tank ( & should be )



#2



#3 Safety Valve closeup . This valve can be set for required limit ( pressure
this can also be operated manually by pulling the pin

[svsantosh]

hmm the bottom half of the comp looks exactly like mine... mine is called 'fauji?' - can u post a full pic - even the drain bolt is the same!! have u opened the head to service it? my comp has 2 thin sheets of steel that act as a valve - more like a reed valve i think!!

[Sudarshan]

Originally Posted by svsantosh

have u opened the head to service it? my comp has 2 thin sheets of steel that act as a valve - more like a reed valve i think!!

Do you really think I had not opened the thing ?

Yes I did open it two three times , --fiirst to see how it works but thats long time back

Yes , there is that reed valve kind of thing in the head ,I had opened to check the 'reed valves ' for some problem & replaced the springs

Third time around , changed the main bearings & crank oil seal

all these repairs are done few years back ( but have no documentation -- felt no need man , there wasnt a net to display the 'knowledge' around )

Anyways - here is the pic check it out .



Sudarshan

P.S.--I got it as a Gift -- but not exactly free -- has served me well for many years -- now trying for a bigger unit ( 2-3 HP ) to run power tools

[mohang_j]

Originally Posted by Sudarshan

P.S. now trying for a bigger unit ( 2-3 HP ) to run power tools

Sudarshanji, isnt it - to run pneumatic tool?
I have used a small 100PSI direct drive compressor to run a nut driver and it worked. Yes i have not yet tested the tool for wheel nuts and other big bolts but with small 10-16mm nuts it worked.

[Sudarshan]

Originally Posted by mohang_j

Sudarshanji, isnt it - to run pneumatic tool?
I have used a small 100PSI direct drive compressor to run a nut driver and it worked. Yes i have not yet tested the tool for wheel nuts and other big bolts but with small 10-16mm nuts it worked.

Oh yes you are right ,its Pneumatic tools ,not Power tools .

A reputed dealer in Pune told me ( read in layman's language ) that I will require a minimum of 2 hp compressor for single gun duty & a 3 hp one for two .

according to him compressors which are coupled with lesser hp motors dont generate the required volume ( of air ) or power for such tools

Now with my own common sense a tool that generates up to 250 NM torque will be sufficient for wheel nut duty ( 120 NM is specified for my Land Rover )

Now back to topic --- IMHO & AFAIK Santosh's comp wont be sufficient for running such tools , though its a very good thing to have on board for tyre filling duty . Now if he could replace a tube ( service tyre ) then nothing like it

Sudarshan

[svsantosh]

sudarshan - thx for the pic - its nearly the same size and about the same CC/HP. I also dont think i can run a power/pnuematic wrench off it, but none the less - it was UBS's wish to showcase the versatality of a Jeep and thats fulfilled, I can at least safely fix a tubeless puncture on way to any remote place PS - and I hate a CJ for the amount of dust it accumulates within a day or two of parking! Would love to hose all the dust before every weekend run!

[Sudarshan]

All logic goes for a toss when the BUG bites you

see this what Santosh has said before ( the air comp bug bit him )

http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/4x4-te...ml#post2073266


But yes He did it before me -- Congrats ( mine is still in the box )

Moral of the story ?? the bug nothing else


Sudarshan

[svsantosh]

LOLZ - good flashback!! thx for the pointer... I do agree some part of my brain got bit by the bug (your thread)!!

[svsantosh]

Hope this works!! Lot of mixed reviews online. Part delivered at friends place in US, getting it around 2nd may.

[svsantosh]

started work on ^ - line lock, but with a completely different part, pray it works by evening...