[King413]

Is that a different shackle which can accommodate the tow bar? If made fold able it will really be a piece of cake for recovering vehicles from OTR break downs.

[Jaggu]

Originally Posted by DHABHAR.BEHRAM

Dear Jaggu - the cause of the problem is two fold. It can be either a clogged slow speed petrol jet (number 74 in the figure above), clogged progression holes just above the throttle plate in the main carburettor body (in the circuit where volume control screw no 15 fits), clogged emulsion tube (less likely because you say the engine runs properly in high speed), but the main reasons seem to be extra air leaking into the system or the dwell / timing not set as per specification.

This problem is a very occasional issue, but totally unpredictable. Only time i could replicate was when i drive slow and completely de-clutch to stop/downshift to say 1st gear. Otherwise vehicle idles fine and this cough up and stall happens only once in a while??!! I even could tune it to idle real slow without any issue. I have cleaned the slow speed jet, it was fine and also used air to clean the circuit at carb end.

Originally Posted by DHABHAR.BEHRAM

The best thing to do would be to buy a timing light / dwell angle meter and check whenever required. The garages have always worked inefficiently and will continue to do so.

I have identified one or two places where i can access these tools and plan to do it properly.

Originally Posted by DHABHAR.BEHRAM

There is a very unconventional method of clearing the carburettor of unwanted debris. Please interchange any 2 spark plug wires and induce misfiring in the engine. Increase the engine rpm. It will misfire and in limiting condition, flames will come out through the carburettor throat (be careful, do not look into the carburettor, you can get hurt). The reigning confusion usually clears out any debris. I never believed it till my teacher introduced a dirty jet and showed it to me.

DB bhai this one scare's me! if you assure this is safe i will do this, without going anywhere close to the carb. Am worried if any silly leackage of petrol or fumes will induce a fire!

Originally Posted by DHABHAR.BEHRAM

Dear Deepak - if the condenser "goes", then you will get Diwali crackers firing inside the engine & down through the tail pipe. He is able to run at high engine speed, that means it is not the condenser. By the way, the original Japanese condenser of the Japanese distributor of the 118NE car, which has a capacity of 0.22 micro farad works marginally better in the Lucas TVS distributor than the original spacification 0.25 micro farad condenser.

The main reasons seem to be air leak / incorrect dwell / incorrect timing. Correct it systematically by DOE (Design Of Experiments),

Best regards,

Behram Dhabhar

Points noted and if i get time today, will proceed step by step and report back.

Originally Posted by JeepCaptain

Jaggu, Tow bar for your CJ3B!!

Yup this is the design i had in mind, but i plan to fix this DwArF instead of resorting to such easy routes!

BLR is a very bad place to do any sorts of fabrication like this, i have seen how Khan and Viji struggle to get things done and myself gone through enough while building the drag RD. Simple or otherwise!

You wont believe, it took close to 12 hours to fit a "simple" set off rock slider last saturday!!

Originally Posted by King413

Is that a different shackle which can accommodate the tow bar? If made fold able it will really be a piece of cake for recovering vehicles from OTR break downs.

Yes it is retractable to the top and can be held in place with a hook or tie down to the bonnet. Its a very simple design. You really dont need to disturb the shackles also, the same can be attached to the chassis or bumper in jeeps.

[sreerajunnithan]

@Jaggu, Prithvi and Shibu. We want something like this http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/4x4-ve...-440-a-10.html. Probably Kandisa can help us with the design.

Thanks
--Sree--

[PAVAN KADAM]

Originally Posted by Jaggu

This problem is a very occasional issue, but totally unpredictable. Only time i could replicate was when i drive slow and completely de-clutch to stop/downshift to say 1st gear. Otherwise vehicle idles fine and this cough up and stall happens only once in a while??!! I even could tune it to idle real slow without any issue. I have cleaned the slow speed jet, it was fine and also used air to clean the circuit at carb end.

DB bhai this one scare's me! if you assure this is safe i will do this, without going anywhere close to the carb. Am worried if any silly leackage of petrol or fumes will induce a fire!

Simple means to clear the carb debris is "BOIL IT IN HOT WATER"

Misfiring the carb also clears the debris, but it will be at the expense of Burnign the slow speed jet, and few idle jet rubber gaskets. Though this will not be a major damage, But effective.

All these teething issues are frustrating, but have patience.

Need to see your Jeep.

[Jaggu]

So i came home and decided to fix it! Removed the carb from the piece above manifold, since the manifold nut was tricky to access without removing the valve cover. Packing was slightly torn but i had decided enough is enough, am setting this carb up!

Had bought a plastic tray and paint brush on my way back from office. First washed the carb from outside, wiped it clean and cleaned the tray also. Then one by one i opened all the chambers, jets, accelerator pump etc etc apart from the butterfly all opened and cleaned up. Found a nice piece of dislodged gunk at the inlet just before the float valve. Rest was all very minor dust, nevertheless generous amount of petrol and cycle pump blowing/drying was involved.

Assembled back everything, double check and poured some petrol and tried the butterfly link and volaaaa, she is spraying perfect. Decided to clean up the outside and carry it to the jeep.

The packing which tore a bit at the base was a problem, but decided (rather my impatience) to resort to a temp solution for trial run. Got some white grease smeared a lil bit and pasted the carb to the manifold piece. Crank crank crank and she fired up!!!

Did some circus held the accelerator in place, moved hand to accelerator link, fix idle screw and am grinning ear to ear. Idle was nice and sweet, set the air screw and took DwArF for a spin. All the hard work had paid off, and engine is just purring, engine temp after lot of effort reached 70 deg, decided to set the idle mixture and idle rpm for one last time.

Took another spin, high speed, slow speed, crawling, drag lauch, you name it i did it. Finally DwArF is running as a DwArF should!!! Sometimes DIY is the best solution and the returns are amazing!!

All i need to do now is find a new packing for the base and put a new split pin for the accelerator pedal link.

So step 1 of tune up completed

One of the simplest carb i have come across to set up.

[DKG]

Great job Jaggu. The best part is with each problem solved you simply get to know your car more intimately.

[PAVAN KADAM]

Originally Posted by Jaggu

So i came home and decided to fix it! Removed the carb from the piece above manifold, since the manifold nut was tricky to access without removing the valve cover. Packing was slightly torn but i had decided enough is enough, am setting this carb up!

Assembled back everything, double check and poured some petrol and tried the butterfly link and volaaaa, she is spraying perfect. Decided to clean up the outside and carry it to the jeep.

The packing which tore a bit at the base was a problem, but decided (rather my impatience) to resort to a temp solution for trial run. Got some white grease smeared a lil bit and pasted the carb to the manifold piece. Crank crank crank and she fired up!!!

Did some circus held the accelerator in place, moved hand to accelerator link, fix idle screw and am grinning ear to ear. Idle was nice and sweet, set the air screw and took her for a spin. All the hard work had paid off, and she is just purring, engine temp after lot of effort reached 70 deg, decided to set the idle mixture and idle rpm for one last time.

Took her for a spin, high speed, slow speed, crawling, drag lauch, you name it i did it. Finally she is running as she should!!! Sometimes DIY is the best solution and the returns are amazing!!

All i need to do now is find a new packing for the base and put a new split pin for the accelerator pedal link.

So step 1 of tune up completed

One of the simplest carb i have come across to set up.

Congrats on the DIY

You are now a Half Mechanic

Buy a Asbestos sheet at JC Road, Cut the packing and install the carb back. Done, one more DIY for the packing.

You get a thick 10 mm fibre packing, those work wonders.

Some more pics appreciated.

[swastikviji]

Originally Posted by JeepCaptain

Jaggu, Tow bar for your CJ3B!! This is really interesting. Do you have any design pics?

If you are are planning to get something like the pic below, .. could you please get an extra one made for me aswell??

I've been trying to get one like this for ages.


Attachment 338258

Shibu

Shibu even i am trying to make one of this kind, after a bad experience, a two wheeler rider entered in between towing jeeps,(we are using tow rope) luckily no major issue, i have seen a picture in Delhi OTR thread, it is something similar to this, if you give some dimension and all angle picture i will try to make this.

[JeepCaptain]

Originally Posted by sreerajunnithan

@Jaggu, Prithvi and Shibu. We want something like this http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/4x4-ve...-440-a-10.html. Probably Kandisa can help us with the design.

Thanks
--Sree--

Sree, Then its not Soumen(Kandisa) who can help us. Mandeep (Renegade) who helped Kandisa to restore his MM440 is also the brain behind that tow bar.

Renegade, We have few tow bar orders for you. Is your final design ready??

[Jaggu]

Originally Posted by DKG

Great job Jaggu. The best part is with each problem solved you simply get to know your car more intimately.

Yes Deepak. One of the reason why i bought the CJ3B was this. I need to add more tools though, all my old stuff are in Kerala.

Originally Posted by PAVAN KADAM

Congrats on the DIY

You are now a Half Mechanic

Buy a Asbestos sheet at JC Road, Cut the packing and install the carb back. Done, one more DIY for the packing.

You get a thick 10 mm fibre packing, those work wonders.

Some more pics appreciated.

I was always a mech, right from my teenage Just that last few years life was becoming too busy and ignoring that side.

Ill try for packing kit, should be easy and available. IIRC i have some left from the engine repair kit at the garage itself. I plan to take the jeep for rewiring soon and might as well get all this small things sorted out then.

Originally Posted by swastikviji

Shibu even i am trying to make one of this kind, after a bad experience, a two wheeler rider entered in between towing jeeps,(we are using tow rope) luckily no major issue, i have seen a picture in Delhi OTR thread, it is something similar to this, if you give some dimension and all angle picture i will try to make this.

Viji if you are game i have some idea which i can share with you when we meet next time. This is an easy design, only the right material needs to be chosen to take care of the strength.

Originally Posted by JeepCaptain

Sree, Then its not Soumen(Kandisa) who can help us. Mandeep (Renegade) who helped Kandisa to restore his MM440 is also the brain behind that tow bar.

Renegade, We have few tow bar orders for you. Is your final design ready??

Yes sir, please share will make our life easy and i can tow along with Sreeraj and return amazing FE on a hurricane!

[Sutripta]

Just a word on the packing for your carb. Yours I think was NOS. Face should be OK. You can confirm it with a steel rule, or a glass plate. If OK, DO NOT use a thick compressible packing material. All that will happen is that the face will distort. Mazak is not very strong.

The "fibre" piece used to be a heat insulator. I don't think it was used in the Jeeps, but cant be certain.

Regards
Sutripta

[Jaggu]

What am referring to is no 136 here Jeep carb has a small manifold extension below this i guess.

Its a paper packing which was originally there and now slightly torn.

Originally Posted by Sutripta

Just a word on the packing for your carb. Yours I think was NOS. Face should be OK. You can confirm it with a steel rule, or a glass plate. If OK, DO NOT use a thick compressible packing material. All that will happen is that the face will distort. Mazak is not very strong.

The "fibre" piece used to be a heat insulator. I don't think it was used in the Jeeps, but cant be certain.

Regards
Sutripta

[JeepCaptain]

Originally Posted by swastikviji

Shibu even i am trying to make one of this kind, after a bad experience, a two wheeler rider entered in between towing jeeps,(we are using tow rope) luckily no major issue, i have seen a picture in Delhi OTR thread, it is something similar to this, if you give some dimension and all angle picture i will try to make this.

swastikviji, I know the dangers of towing with ropes esp in crowded or busy roads. May be you have seen the same towbar which Renegade made. He is a member of NIOC.

I will send you a PM tomorrow. We need to talk.
Shibu

[Sutripta]

Originally Posted by Jaggu

What am referring to is no 136 here Jeep carb has a small manifold extension below this i guess.

Its a paper packing which was originally there and now slightly torn.

Keep it paper. There is an adapter between the carb and manifold. For both mechanical and airflow reasons. IIRC, that is Aluminium. Also not very strong.

Just check out one thing. Is there a channel on the face of the carb, which leads to a threaded opening on the extension?

Regards
Sutripta

[Jaggu]

Will do sir, i will check for the passage also and make a hole if required, didn't explore this time around since i didn't want to tear open the whatever remaining.