[King413]

Originally Posted by Jaggu

So few of us went shopping on JC Road, picked up Lucas coil with resistors, plug wires, a Dwell angle meter, Timing gun and some LED's Tuning has become easier now on.

What a Dwell angle meter? what is used for?
Prithvi

[Jaggu]

Originally Posted by King413

What a Dwell angle meter? what is used for?
Prithvi

Prithvi its not useful for your MPFI engine since it has an ECU which controls the ignition. In older engines with point set up it is required to set up the point gap accurately.

A dwell meter measures the dwell angle of the contact points in the distributor. A dwell meter is much more accurate than setting the points gap with a feeler gauge.

The dwell angle of the points is the angle of point closure; the smaller the dwell angle, the smaller the dwell angle, the wider the points gap, and vice-versa. Workshop manuals will give the specification for the dwell angle in the tuning data section.

A dwell meter is particularly useful in the case of used points where metal transfer between the points makes accurate checking difficult using feeler gauges. To carrying out the dwell angle measurement, the dwell meter is connected in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions. The engine is started and run at idle, and the dwell angle read off the meter. If the reading is outside the prescribed limits, the distributor cap and rotor arm must be removed and the contact breaker points adjusted to the correct setting, while the engine is cranked over on the starter. When the dwell angle has been adjusted, the ignition timing must be reset.

Dwell Meter | Tools

Looks like this:

[King413]

Originally Posted by Jaggu

Prithvi its not useful for your MPFI engine since it has an ECU which controls the ignition. In older engines with point set up it is required to set up the point gap accurately.



Dwell Meter | Tools

Looks like this:

Jaggu thanks for the info on this need to see it being used for best understanding of the meter. I have a MPFi for only that last 3-5 yrs my friend. earlier days i have had Fiat, Omni, Esteems carbs, Gypsy Carb etc. but wonder why i haven't seen a mechanic use this device.
Prithvi

[Jaggu]

Simple reason is cost, why spend 800-900 bucks when they can set the points using a feeler gauge (to set the gap) or by other crude methods like looking at the points arc or engine vibrations

When MUL came in, these meters started showing up since they insisted authorized workshops to have it in the "must have tools" list.

The readings are real time and accuracy is great, unlike the other methods including feeler gauge. This is more important for older vehicles/used points since the distributor cam and points would have worn out giving wrong dwell reading even if the gap is set to spec.

[DHABHAR.BEHRAM]

Dear Jaggu - just for information, I have used what was known as PTUT (Portable Tune Up Tester) which was mounted inside a PAL owned blue coloured service van MMB1975. It consisted of not only a tach-dwell meter / timing light / vacuum gauge, it also had an oscilloscope on which I could measure the complete combustion cycle by measuring the spark plug voltage through the entire range. This was in 1977.

In 1977, in PAL, we technically had everything. Only the will to excel was missing. Sad but true.

Best regards,

Behram Dhabhar

[Jaggu]

I have seen one of those (or similar) in TVM with one of my old mechs, full fledged tune up thingie which can do power balance and what not. This got me thinking, why not rig up a better digital meter to the jeep, to give me live read out of parameters, and can act as a RPM meter also

Sirji do you have any torque and power chart for the hurricane engine which resides in my jeep? Just curious and some idea's running inside the head.

[Jaggu]

Coming back to the jeep, the wiring is kinda done. Transfercase bearings were shot and replacing the same along with synchroniser which was eaten up, which gave the box a golden hue. Hope these were the reasons for the minor chatter when holding the throtlle at a particular speed.

Vehicle should be ready and delivered by tomorrow or day after. Ill carry the timing tools and get the settings done before i take her out.

Still hunting for a spare rim and tyre set up.

Should i go ahead and buy the gypsy rims so that i can move to yoko's/maxis OR stick to the NDMS itself for the long run? Let me go readup the offroad tire thread

[ex670c]

Originally Posted by Jaggu

Sirji do you have any torque and power chart for the hurricane engine which resides in my jeep? Just curious and some idea's running inside the head.

Hi Jaggu,

I can give you one from a non-scientific source.

http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/1363000-post32.html

Regards,

Arka

PS - Please don't call me SirJi

[Jaggu]

Thanks Arkaji i wanted the graph and i like it! Assume that M&M is having similar chart and shouldn't have deviated much.

[King413]

Originally Posted by ex670c

PS - Please don't call me SirJi

Thought DHABHAR.BEHRAM was referred as sirji. I think we should call Arka also Sirji for his vast knowledge of Jeeps and service to the Jeeping Community.
Prithvi

[Jaggu]

Originally Posted by King413

Thought DHABHAR.BEHRAM was referred as sirji. I think we should call Arka also Sirji for his vast knowledge of Jeeps and service to the Jeeping Community.
Prithvi

Let's not get confused with names here, like the certain common avatar's. Based on unscientific but well engineered thought, Arka will be hereby known and referred to as Arkaji! <and runs for cover>

[ex670c]

Originally Posted by King413

Thought DHABHAR.BEHRAM was referred as sirji. I think we should call Arka also Sirji for his vast knowledge of Jeeps and service to the Jeeping Community.
Prithvi

Hi Prithvi,

STGH!!!!!!!

I cannot hold a candle to esteemed DHABAR.BEHRAM.

DB Sir, is doing much more by making new 4WD and has a COE dedicated to him.

@ Jaggu, Samurai & TSK will definitely seek you out of your cover for attributing well engineered thoughts to ME!!!!!!!

Please don't embarass me.

Regards,

Arka

[Jaggu]

Originally Posted by ex670c

@ Jaggu, Samurai & TSK will definitely seek you out of your cover for attributing well engineered thoughts to ME!!!!!!!

On the contrary they will applaud me for trying to re-engineer you, atleast in thoughts

Ok lets cut the chit chat and leave my DwArF alone till further updates.

[Jaggu]

Got the jeep back after complete re-wiring and gear box overhaul.

The synchronizer for 2 and 3 rd gear were cut and was replaced, also the transfer case bearings and all the packings. The top was replaced a month back. Took her for first trial and the moment i slotted 2nd gear and a kar kar sound came, tried 3rd and the same sound. 1st gear no sound. Immediately turned back to the garage. We were worried and wondering if we will need to down the box again, which is a herculean task in a CJ3B.

I was quite sure it was something touching on the top, so we lifted the top cover and inspected. Manually turned gear wheels, no sound. Started and turned the gear box without the top, no sound. Kept the top back and tried no sound, but the moment top was tightened the sound came back!

Lifted the top back and then i noticed that the rivet for the gear lever shafts have been scarred. Brand new top and its not sitting proper! Got an idea and added one more packing to see if it works. And hurrah no sound! Tightened all the nuts and took her for 2nd trial and gear box seems to be sorted out. No vague gates, slick but slightly tight shift (due to the new top).

Since it was late and there was some more wiring left, i decided to take her home but without the cover bolts in place on Saturday. Thought it will give me some idea of fine tune as well as chance to trial run for around 40kms. The tranny was sounding less noisy but all the cover etc were still making the jeep noisy. Came back early morn on Sunday and finished the wiring. Meanwhile the mech fixed all the covers, skid plates etc and double checked all the bolts, joints etc.

Timing mark was not clearly visible so put some paint on the pulley cutting and checked. It was way advanced even with distributor fully to one side, i was wondering if i will have to remove the distributor and move one notch or something. Lucky for me it has a small nut kinda attachment which has further correction option and finally the mark was aligned.

Took her for a test drive and man the box has become super slick, click click click thats it! and no tranny sound while holding on to steady throttle/speed. I was a very happy man.

Picked Rudra and went to the service station and one the way the new double master cylinder saved us. An iKON came to a sudden stop and at 40 kmph and me standing on the brake for 10 mts, the NDMS just howled and stopped DwArF! a few inches from the car!! Guys NDMS is a BIG NO for tarmac!! Esp the light CJ3B and hurricane engine, i had far better confidence on NDMS on old jeeps with diesel engine but DwArF is another beast! Am changing these tyres as soon as i save up! Good news was my brakes are set up proper and no fish tailing or pulling when i anchored hard.

Full washing and greasing the heck out of old grease. We came out and wow DwArF has become super silent, even on suspension front. I was loving it!

Time to hook up some LED's

[svsantosh]

Originally Posted by Jaggu

.....and on the way the new double master cylinder saved us. An iKON came to a sudden stop and....

No Jaggu - the D.M.Cy saved the iKon!!! Nothing would have happened to your DwArF, ask any one...(you would have no more than a 1000Rs fender bender, and of course a earful).

If it were a LCV/Truck, then your statement holds true.