[JeepMkd]

Hey, how could I miss this thread?
Congratulations on buying one nice Jeep Jaggu

[DKG]

Originally Posted by Jaggu

Isn't it better to put a deflector shield around the pump? Even a simple flexi tube with "ram air" from the front would do good?

Something like that. I am wondering if anyone has done this and successfully cured the mechanical pump failure during summer. Here almost everyone tells me its a waste of time trying to address this problem and everyone simply lives with it during summer and gets by with the electric pump

[docfreak]

well yes , i have not used the elec fuel pump even in delhi summers, and i am using my jeep as my daily ride. the vent i mention is inte firewall with a slight deflector for the air to come on directly on to the mech fuel pump spot.

[Jaggu]

Originally Posted by JeepMkd

Hey, how could I miss this thread?
Congratulations on buying one nice Jeep Jaggu

Thanks for the wishes JeepMkd

Originally Posted by DKG

Something like that. I am wondering if anyone has done this and successfully cured the mechanical pump failure during summer. Here almost everyone tells me its a waste of time trying to address this problem and everyone simply lives with it during summer and gets by with the electric pump

Same thing my mech Raju told, dont waste time with all this. Even a brand new pump will have issue and he said best is to plonk an electric pump. But how can we just let it be

Originally Posted by docfreak

well yes , i have not used the elec fuel pump even in delhi summers, and i am using my jeep as my daily ride. the vent i mention is inte firewall with a slight deflector for the air to come on directly on to the mech fuel pump spot.

Thanks, you have given me some ideas. Ill be visiting the garage today evening and then will try to cook up some options from this.

[HappyWheels]

<< Third time trying to post! >>

Congrats Jaggu!

Wishing you many rugged and tough terrain in your path (when in the CJ, that is).

[Wind splitter]

The best part was naming the Jeep "DWARF" just loved it. Congratulations!!!!!!!!!!!!!

But why "DWARF"???

[vinod_nookala]

Yes surely the Dwarf name is interesting, what made you to name it like that?

[DHABHAR.BEHRAM]

Dear Jaggu, Deepak and all – this is the detailed procedure for adapting an “Electronic Fuel Pump” into a petrol engine equipped CJ3B Jeep type vehicle.

The CJ3B fuel tank outlet is at the tank bottom. This is a very good feature as gravity aids the fuel system, so leave it as it is. The “original” CJ3B fuel tank had a screw-on fitting having taper threads, from which a metal pipe came out with a 90 degree bend. It is quite possible that after all the years in service / non-use, this feature may have become non-functional by any means. Therefore, my recommendation would be to introduce a flanged joint at the bottom of the tank. In order to do this, it is necessary to remove the tank from the vehicle, remove the “original” internal threaded joint (it is soldered on, so a good radiator fellow should get it off in no time), and then attach a BLG3 (BLG stands for BULGED, 3 means 8 mm nominal diameter) flared connector in place. This connector is readily available. It is used in all SOLEX carburetors fitted to Premier Padmini cars. So just get it off an old Padmini carburetor. This connector may be brazed to the tank but for doing this, the tank should never have been filled with petrol (new tank), otherwise do not even think of brazing, the tank will explode. Soldering is the only option, for which it is necessary that all petrol is drained off and the tank is kept open to atmosphere for at least one month. THIS OPERATION MUST BE CARRIED OUT WITH UTMOST CARE. After soldering, this connector will face downwards. Also assemble one similar connector on the top of the tank, at a location which is protected from abuse. This connector will face upwards and is for the return line. Now assemble the tank in the car. As these connectors are now BLG3, it is necessary that you ensure that all other connectors are also BLG3 only. Obtain a carburetor driven Maruti van fuel filter assembly of Purolator make. It is freely available and costs around 50 rupees. Mount this filter very close to the fuel tank outlet connector. Preferably orient this fuel filter vertically, recommended but not compulsory. The position must be somewhere inside the chassis so that the fuel filter is protected from road obstacles. For tests and initial use, obtain a good quality “plastic pipe” available at most auto shops across the country. The advantage is that this pipe is transparent so you will be able to see how the fuel is flowing and learn from the experience (I learnt, therefore I am writing this post). After everything is proved out, you will have to replace all these “plastic pipes” by good quality JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) compatible branded and braided hoses suitable for petrol, with JIS specification wire clips at all connectors. Connect the outlet of the tank to the inlet pipe on the fuel filter (the inlet is located in the centre of the filter, the outlet is located at the top of the fuel filter). Assemble the electronic fuel pump with the concentric “inlet / outlet” axis at about 15 degrees angle to the horizontal, the outlet point being above the inlet point. This is to allow cavitated fuel if any to freely flow out through the pump, allowing it to work properly. 15 degrees is an important design parameter. Do not deviate on this CC (critical characteristic). Connect the fuel filter outlet connector to the fuel pump inlet connector, using a suitable length of transparent plastic pipe. Assemble the outlet point of the electronic fuel pump to the mechanical fuel pump inlet connector. If the mechanical fuel pump has the tapered thread connection, replace it with suitable BLG connections at both ends. Route this pipe suitably away from the exhaust system and clip it properly. I use round clips removed out of old hand brake cables of Maruti 800 cars. My garage contacts remove all clips from the old hand brake cables before they throw away the cables. These clips are not available separately. Fortunately, these clips take the 8 mm OD pipe perfectly. For routing of the pipe from the mechanical pump to the carburetor, I recommend a routing away from the draft of the mechanical fan. The original design passes exactly behind the water pump and is affected by hot draft from the fan. I recommend the alternate routing because today’s petrol has low boiling factions and cavitates very easily. I recommend routing this pipe on the LH fender along with the pipe from the electronic fuel pump, then branching out below the bonnet hinge from the LH side of the car to the RH side. Bring this petrol pipe behind the carburetor. Now obtain a brass tee (it actually looks like the alphabet “T”). for this, you will have to scout around the “brass” markets found in any major city. In Mumbai, there is a shop in Opera House selling only brass connectors. I buy all my stock from there. The JIS for brass BLG3 connector specifies ID of 6.6 mm. Hold this tee connector in a vise with its centre leg facing up. Use an M6*1.0 tap in the ID of this leg and tap internal threads of M6*1.0 in the leg of the tee connector. For M6*1.0, initial hole diameter of 6.6 mm is required by JIS standard sheet to obtain technically correct threading. Obtain a “160” size idling air connector jet removed out of a Solex carburetor as used in Premier Padmini cars. This is a headless jet screwed on the main body above the volume control screw and has M6*1.0 external threads on it. Assemble this jet inside the threaded tee connector, using a screw driver. As there is no head, you will be able to assemble the plastic pipe on the tee with the jet inside it. This jet now acts as an “orifice”. Connect the fuel pipe from the mechanical fuel pump outlet to one end of the tee connector, connect the other end of the tee connector to the carburetor inlet. Connect the tee leg having the orifice to the fuel tank return line that you initially soldered on top of the fuel tank. The orifice leg should be preferably oriented facing up. Mount the tee connector on the firewall, using a suitable fastener. The system (phase 1) is now complete. This means that there is a phase 2 but I will give you phase 2 details after you give me your observations on the performance of phase 1, as I want you to try out phase 1 first.

Now with the engine off, connect the electronic fuel pump to a 12 volts supply off the battery and switch it on. It is better to have a switch on the dashboard to switch the electronic fuel pump on. Fuel will continue to flow through the electronic fuel pump even when it is electrically switched off. In winter, when the electronic fuel pump is not required, you may keep it off. You need not keep the electronic fuel pump on all the time as the tee connector is not in the suction line. The electronic fuel pump will make a clattering noise if there is air in it. Purge the pump manually for sometime if required, generally it is not required. The fuel will fill inside the filter body, then it will pass through the electronic pump, then through the mechanical pump, eventually it will reach the orifice. Fuel will then flow into the carburetor and at the same time it will also flow through the orifice back into the fuel tank. If you do not use the orifice, most of the fuel will return back to the tank and the engine will starve. It took me 1 month of intense testing on the engine dynamometer for FTP (full throttle performance) / road to freeze the orifice size. Ensure that all pipes are full with liquid fuel. Start the engine ad check the system for mechanical integrity. Rectify if required. It is very important to remember that with sufficient quantity of fuel in the tank, if you see bubbles coming continuously in the suction line before the electronic fuel pump when the pump is electrically switched off, then the fuel tank is dirty and needs to be replaced as it cannot be cleaned.

Now drive the car and let me know the performance of the fuel system. I am sure you must have found this data interesting. Please think what will be phase 2, which is healthy food for the grey cells. I can write this post with so much confidence because I have actually rectified this problem on a representative car. A car which initially took 5 hours to climb a 7 kms long gradient, could climb the same gradient in 7 minutes with full power. I conducted the test for 19 days continuously on the same gradient. I have the complete data with me. This is the advantage of being a professional vehicle test engineer. Everybody does not get such a fantastic opportunity to learn.

Best regards,

Behram Dhabhar

[Desmosedici]

Jaggu Bhai,

Hearty Congratulations. You must be in heaven enjoy

[Samurai]

Originally Posted by Wind splitter

The best part was naming the Jeep "DWARF" just loved it. Congratulations!!!!!!!!!!!!!

But why "DWARF"???

Originally Posted by vinod_nookala

Yes surely the Dwarf name is interesting, what made you to name it like that?

Look at the following post for clues...

http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/1570676-post951.html

[Jaggu]

Originally Posted by HappyWheels

Congrats Jaggu!

Thanks Happy!

Originally Posted by Wind splitter

The best part was naming the Jeep "DWARF" just loved it. Congratulations!!!!!!!!!!!!!

But why "DWARF"???

hmmm scroll down

Originally Posted by vinod_nookala

Yes surely the Dwarf name is interesting, what made you to name it like that?

Scroll even further

Originally Posted by DHABHAR.BEHRAM

Dear Jaggu, Deepak and all – this is the detailed procedure for adapting an “Electronic Fuel Pump” into a petrol engine equipped CJ3B Jeep type vehicle.

Behramji am clean bowled out!

Very detailed clear post and it has convinced me to take it up as a project in itself! am going to postpone this for later, since this requires some amount of preparation!! But yes will do it, bookmarked the post for reference.

Thank you once again.

Originally Posted by Desmosedici

Jaggu Bhai,

Hearty Congratulations. You must be in heaven enjoy

Thanks Desmo, i just got back to reality after reading Behram's post

Originally Posted by Samurai

Look at the following post for clues...

http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/1570676-post951.html

And the above post has the answer, its part of a fairy tale. Some might say YUCK! for a mid 30's person ie but yes thats how it is, when you need to balance the caring.

Its D w A r F and i plan to get some stickering done with the name on the vehicle, what say? Rudra will kill me for sure!!

Work Update

So boys some updates, new steering box, tie rods, oil pressure pipe/attachment with switch, brake master cylinder (twin chamber with separate tank) are in. Front axle, brakes (new pads, drum phased) etc are kinda done. Left hand FWH from lambda has the cir-clip missing, guess the last mech thought it was not needed and chucked it out lol. Once Raju procures it front end is kinda done.

Radiator pipes, new head lamps, switch cluster (since new steering box doesn't have hollow pipe for horn wire), reverse lights, horns, fuel pump, oil pressure meter etc are procured and will go in soon. Gear oil as per Arka's spec will go in.

Rear axle and brake overhaul should start tomorrow and mech is trying to meet saturday evening deadline. I have told him to take his time and not hurry with it.

Points are being replaced, its running amby points? Are these ok (planning to plonk in new ones) and can someone share the dwell angle and timing details for this engine? Original hurricane its 40 dwell and 5 deg timing IIRC??? I think ill get a dwell meter and timing lights for the long run.

How much is the oil capacity of this engine? Is it same as original Hurricane engine?

@DKG: The plug wires you have, what make/vehicle are those from? Different colors, will come in handy to identify the firing order.

Now for some WIP pictures, from phone cam and since i reached lil late couldn't shoot much.

[Sankar]

Originally Posted by Jaggu

Yes sire, i plan to do it soon. Only confusion is, if should go for a lap belt till i upgrade the front seats to proper bucket set up? for the shoulder belts. It will spoil the look, but do i care about that he he.

Jaggu no lap belt go for regular 3 point seat belt. Lap belt could create spinal complications if involved in a crash (god forbid).

[Ramsagar]

Congrats. You are darn lucky to get hold of a Hurricane.
Love to say the color is fantastic. Are you planning for metallic/dull finish?

Need more WIP pics buddy.

[gbanavar]

One down, 6 more DwArF's to go!

Which one do you have now? Is it Happy, Grumpy or Sleepy , only time will tell.

1. Sneezy
2. Sleepy
3. Dopey
4. Doc
5. Happy
6. Bashful
7. Grumpy

Sorry Jaggu, coudn't resist!

[DKG]

Originally Posted by Jaggu

@DKG: The plug wires you have, what make/vehicle are those from?

The set I got were meant for the Jeep and from a Mahindra parts dealer. I always ask them first, often you get loads of parts from Mahindra parts dealers simply by asking !

BTW I've kept the dwell and timing as per spec (ie 40 and 5) and not only does the car start on one tick there's loads of power. Do try to get a new TVS distributor with vacuum advance. The engine seems to respond perfectly to this distributor in terms of pickup

@ Mr Dhabhar, thanks for that most detailed post. One question I feel in series the mechanical is facing some drag and is failing a lot earlier than it normally does without the electric inline. If I were to have the electric in parallel I would need a non return valve in the main line to prevent the fuel from heading back into the tank when the electric is running. I am unable to locate a extreme low pressure NRV. Can you suggest something?