[fazalaliadil]

Originally Posted by svsantosh

What brand is the radiator? Is it a jeeps?

Its a Mahindra Maxx radiator, manufactured by TATA Toyo. It has very good wide aluminum vents, takes 5+ liters of coolant and fits without any alterations.

[AVR]

Originally Posted by fazalaliadil

Its a Mahindra Maxx radiator, manufactured by TATA Toyo. It has very good wide aluminum vents, takes 5+ liters of coolant and fits without any alterations.

I saw a similar radiator on the Thar DI at the showroom. Its interesting how one of the first brands that you see when you open a Mahindra Thar bonnet is the brand "Tata"

[Jaggu]

Fazalsaab, is the radiator too close to the fan? Also maybe the angle can be corrected a lil bit. But i guess its just trial fitments.

[Frankenstein]

Originally Posted by svsantosh

What brand is the radiator? Is it a jeeps?

I had used this radiator previously. It is called the plastic radiator locally as the top part of it is made of fiber. Very very efficient compared to the local 4 core radiators. Costs around 3000.

[fazalaliadil]

Originally Posted by Jaggu

Fazalsaab, is the radiator too close to the fan? Also maybe the angle can be corrected a lil bit. But i guess its just trial fitments.

Jaggu,
Like it or not, I am in the very same boat as you now.

The engine needs to be corrected as it is leaning backwards, and to do this I have two, 6mm plates (each side) between the GB cross member and chassis, will remove one and see how it helps without further inclining the presently decently angled propeller shaft.

This is going to be called The Jaggu Experiment, henceforth as so much has been discussed about it all because of you.

Originally Posted by Frankenstein

I had used this radiator previously. It is called the plastic radiator locally as the top part of it is made of fiber. Very very efficient compared to the local 4 core radiators. Costs around 3000.

Frankenstein,
Yes it is the same one I have decided to install in my 340, reason was its a direct fit and if it cools a load carrier (Maxx pickup) it should be good enough for a much lighter SWB with an XD3P.

Also the triangular aluminum vents are better designed than the older copper vents, allowing better air intake.
Regards,

[headers]

I am ears for "The Jaggu Experiment" sir.

[SPIKE ARRESTOR]

Originally Posted by fazalaliadil

The engine needs to be corrected as it is leaning backwards, and to do this I have two, 6mm plates (each side) between the GB cross member and chassis, will remove one and see how it helps without further inclining the presently decently angled propeller shaft.

Fazal Saab, are you thinking of putting the 6.5 degree wedges or 6 mm plates (rectangular flats)? Be careful of the fan clearances.

Spike

[fazalaliadil]

Originally Posted by SPIKE ARRESTOR

Fazal Saab, are you thinking of putting the 6.5 degree wedges or 6 mm plates (rectangular flats)? Be careful of the fan clearances.

Spike

Spike,
I am not planning on adding a plate or wedge, may remove one plate from the (already in place two) or you give me a better option.
Btw Spike,what should be the ideal distance between the fan and the radiator ? (notice in my case there is a 11/2" thk.wood spacer between the grille and radiator body).

As XD3P used a bigger Bolero radiator..need your kind inputs on the radiator I am using.

Vikram,
Where have you been? Longtime.

Regards,

[Jaggu]

Originally Posted by fazalaliadil

The Jaggu Experiment

You are embarrassing me and on the other hand glad that all my circus is becoming useful for others

Originally Posted by fazalaliadil

Spike,
I am not planning on adding a plate or wedge, may remove one plate from the (already in place two) or you give me a better option.
Btw Spike,what should be the ideal distance between the fan and the radiator ? (notice in my case there is a 11/2" thk.wood spacer between the grille and radiator body).

Fazal saab, could you post pictures of the current spacer set up. This will give Spike and others a better idea. Lesson learnt from Jaggu Experiment.

Disclaimer! am not an expert but from my experience:

Regarding radiator fan, my understanding and experience is a clearance of 3-4 inches is good. Takes care of the air suction needed as well as any engine movement in an N-S engine set up. But more than the clearance, what affects the working is how the set up is, this is where shroud plays a major role.

If you are using matching fan size for the radiator along with slip clutch fan, a decent tight fan shroud is all that is required to do a good job. You will be amazed by the way in which engine holds the temperature even without any thermostat hacks. I would suggest you to run with this set up, iron out any cooling issues before moving to AC. Never do both the jobs together. But do plan forward for AC as below.

Now when you fit the AC, ensure that the AC radiator is at about 2 inches away from the engine radiator and it should again have a shroud kind of set up between the two radiators (thicker thermocoal set up is good enough if you want an easy solution), so that air flow is maintained (no leakages through the side). If there is leak, my observation is the overall efficiency goes down inspite of electric fan in front.

An electric fan with shroud matching the AC grill in front, this will be required for our hot climate, though in winter it might work without one. Again selection of AC radiator grill has to be done carefully. Ideally which has maximum air flow from front to back with minimum obstruction around the edges would be ideal.

Where most people go wrong is:

1) No shroud for engine fan
2) Engine fan too far or too close to the radiator
3) AC grill sitting too close to radiator and exposed all around, which disperses the air draft.
4) Over or under size electric fans at the front again haphazardly fitted, that air flow is hampered instead of being enhanced.

These are from my experiment a decade back. But eventually i got it right. Maybe Spike can add more scientific stuff.

[ex670c]

Originally Posted by fazalaliadil

, the engine did 6 hours and temp did not cross the 80 mark.

Hi Fazal,

I hope you didn't mean by idling/fast-idling for 6Hrs

After rebuild, when the engine is fitted on the vehicle with the cooling and air-intake system, idle at 1500-2000rpm at operating temp (80-90Degree C for XD Peugeot) for 15mins.

Regards,

Arka

[fazalaliadil]

Originally Posted by ex670c

Hi Fazal,

I hope you didn't mean by idling/fast-idling for 6Hrs

Ha ha no. Arka, Doing as advised by you.

Originally Posted by Jaggu

Fazal saab, could you post pictures of the current spacer set up. This will give Spike and others a better idea. Lesson learnt from Jaggu Experiment.

Jaggu,
I will be posting pics by evening. I too am looking forward to the revolutionary idea and looks like the Jaggu Experiment is here to stay.

Regards,

[SPIKE ARRESTOR]

Originally Posted by fazalaliadil

Btw Spike,what should be the ideal distance between the fan and the radiator ?

Fazal Saab, this is for you:-



These are thumb rules which must be used as a reference. I hope this solves all ambiguity regarding fan, shroud, radiator position for Cooling system "effectiveness".

Spike

PS- Radiator position again follows engine position, I have made a sketch will scan and upload soon.

[Jaggu]

Nice Spike, add the AC also into equation please

[SPIKE ARRESTOR]

^^ I knew it was coming, have that ready too!

Spike

[ex670c]

Originally Posted by fazalaliadil

Serviced pump, new nozzles and the engine did 6 hours and temp did not cross the 80 mark.
Attachment 518272

Hi Fazal,

Please look into the following.

1) Please cover the "gap" between the Radiator Grille and Radiator, along the Wooden Spacer especially on top, this will improve the efficiency of you cooling system.

2) Rotate the Air Filter so that the inlet is on top; and the rubber hose facing the Firewall/cowl.

3) Fit the dust indicator on the Air-Filter Assy.

Regards,

Arka