[arjithin]

Hi, this is a question than a DIY ; but if the answer to the question is positive, I plan to do it as a DIY

I have a 2009 Ritz and it has got a Sony XAV62BT double DIN receiver and cerwin wega components in the front and coaxials in the side doors. No separate amplifiers/Sub woofers and this set up sounds decent.

Manual of XAV 62BT - http://esupport.sony.com/US/p/model-...ls#/manualsTab

I have a STRK790 Home theatre receiver and SS WP700 (135w, 6 ohm) passive sub available at home pretty much unused. I was wondering if there is a way to use this sub along with my car audio in a relatively cheap set up. After reading the manuals I am unable to make a judgement.

Manual of receiver and Sub : http://esupport.sony.com/US/p/model-...ls#/manualsTab

Note: I am aware that home audio and car audio are entirely two different segments and the design principles differ. The purpose of this trial is to do a test if the subwoofer works well inside the car and I dont intend to spend a lot of money for that trial. If there is an easier way to pair up, and the technical specs match; then I plan to try it out in my car and if the trial is successful, i will be most happy to keep the sub inside my car.

[DerAlte]

Originally Posted by arjithin

... I have a 2009 Ritz and it has got a Sony XAV62BT double DIN receiver and cerwin wega components in the front and coaxials in the side doors. No separate amplifiers/Sub woofers and this set up sounds decent.

... I have a STRK790 Home theatre receiver and SS WP700 (135w, 6 ohm) passive sub available at home pretty much unused ...

You will have to get an amplifier for driving the sub. The HT amp will not be suitable since you will then have to get an Inverter in the car. Do experiment with the position and direction of the woofer in the boot.

[arjithin]

Originally Posted by DerAlte

You will have to get an amplifier for driving the sub. The HT amp will not be suitable since you will then have to get an Inverter in the car. Do experiment with the position and direction of the woofer in the boot.

An amp means some purchase and again some wiring.

XAV62BT's manual says 52Wx4 @ 4 ohm, I am assuming this power is delivered at the speaker connections of the wiring harness. But it didnt really specify how much power it will deliver on the 4 audio out pins in the back ( 2 are for front speakers and 2 are for sub or rear speakers). Is it a standard that such audio
out pins always need an external amp?

https://docs.sony.com/release/XAV62B...l_EN_FR_ES.pdf

If the answer is yes, then directly connecting the subwoofer without an amp is of no use I guess.

[DerAlte]

Originally Posted by arjithin

An amp means some purchase and again some wiring.

XAV62BT's manual says 52Wx4 @ 4 ohm, I am assuming this power is delivered at the speaker connections of the wiring harness. But it didnt really specify how much power it will deliver on the 4 audio out pins in the back ( 2 are for front speakers and 2 are for sub or rear speakers). Is it a standard that such audio
out pins always need an external amp? ...

Yes, of course it means some purchase.

That "52Wx4 @ 4 ohm" means -
a. EACH speaker CAN be given 52W. When it does, it will be so harsh it will not be called music
b. One cannot combine those "52Wx4" to give "208Wx1" to drive a sub - which is physically ONE speaker
c. That "52W" signifies MUSIC power - a strange term that is never related clearly to actual electrical power
d. That 52W actually corresponds to (in standard audio language) approx. 14-18W RMS power - which is fine when driving coaxials or components. Actual power consumed (components, coaxials) is approx. 1-12W depending on how loud you are listening. This doesn't match the ability of external amps, which push 1-40+ W RMS and still sound musical

A subwoofer needs at least 60W RMS to be *audible* in a car, and at least about 80-120W RMS to sound like what the music recording engineer wanted bass to sound like.

[supertinu]

Hey Arjithin, I am not an expert audiophile so cannot comment on those aspects but given my HW electronics background I see a few issues trying to put home audio equipment in your car

• The PCB and rest of the electronics of the amplifer would not have been designed for automotive applications. The temperatures, shock, vibrations that car will give is way different from amp sitting at home. It may not be obvious right away but will significantly reduce the life of the amp and one fine day suddenly stop due to some micro crack that can appear at solder joints

• Its already been highlighted that you will need an inverter for the amp, alternately you could hack into the PCB and directly plug in DC supply if you figure out where to do it, not a simple DIY though

• Given the weight of the sub woofer I have noticed that the boxes for cars are usually made of pretty thick plywood. The shock/vibe in the car will put lot of stress on the screws that hold the sub. Might rip it out in time. Again not something that will show up immediately