Day 3: Marhi - Rohtang la - Sissu : 45 km .....contd.
Having bicycled all along at Kolkata which is of all of 20 ft height above sea level, the biggest downhills have been the flyover that I used to take during my practice runs which lasted all of 10 secs or less!
The more the strain on a climb, the greater a cyclist cherish a downhill; and that brief one during the small run to around Palchan and back to Manali on "Day E" just gave me an idea of how fantastic it would be on a big proper high altitude pass downhill - like this one should be. Almost 3000 ft down from Rohtang top, the downhill is all the way to Khokhsar, approx 17 km of absolutely minimal pedal input. Gravity
zindabad!!
But then for a cyclist to enjoy a downhill, the surface be at least somewhat tarmac all through. And one will error in thought when after seeing that beautiful surface which appeared magically just near Rohtang and at the top - it again magically disappears just after crossing the top. The road downhill is a mostly rutted dirt road with brief patches of dodgy tarmac in between.
The Rohtang downhill towards Sissu will be a great letdown in terms of surface expectation. It ranges from horrendous mud to bumpy rough dirt track to bare enough tarmac at some places.
But I am not all complaining; the amazing distant view of snow peaks, the shades of greenery, the verdant valley along the River Chandra keeps me engaged. I had to stop here for this self-shot pic. I also notice that a dark clouds are progressing from what would be the Lahaul Spiti side.
Nearing Gramphu the road surface returns back to somewhat okay and becomes better as I progress towards Khokhsar.
Gramphu is the bifurcation from where one road branches off towards Lahaul and Spiti side including Chandratal Lake. Keylong is 51 km and Kaza 137 km from Gramphu. It is more of small truck stop, just a couple of rundown dhabas and a tyre puncture shop.
Kokhsar comes up soon after Gramphu. There are number of dhabas and as such places to eat out here. Some double up as a place to stay and a proper PWD guest house is also there. Foreigners are required to register at the police post in Khoksar, down by the river.
I stop here for a hot chai and maggi noodles, and on further talk, the owner told me that Sissu is around 15 km from here and more importantly the road is mostly flat to slight downhill and is a better scenic place. Having reached Khokhsar at 3:30 pm, I took his idea to go to Sissu and try the PWD guest house there.
As told, it was a mostly flat to a slight downhill run to Sissu with the ranging Chandra flowing by. Amazing experience again. Also notice see the dark clouds and definitely rain along with it catching up.
I do ride fast, fantastic tarmac again and also there is a cool breeze but that is in favour of me i.e., not a headwind. The weather hold on and other than some very few drops of rain. On towards Sissu, riding along River Chandra.
In between if one will pass the small tiny village of Teling - a name that will become hugely prominent by 2015 or so as the northern end of the under construction Rohtang tunnel meets here.
The quaint and the much more picturesque village of Sissu comes up soon, and definitely much better views than Khokhsar. Stop and ask about PWD location over here [a video printscreen shot] - told that it is just a little further ahead.
Reach Sissu PWD by 4:30 pm - which turns out to be absolutely empty at that tourist off-season month of September. Go off in search of the caretaker who is found at the one and only eatery that is open at that late month. All others have closed down for this year.
No hassles to get a room then and there, absolutely empty with no tourists or officials, of course great rooms all for a few hundred rupees.
I thoroughly enjoyed today; my confidence is at an all time high having travelled from Marhi and crossed the high pass, reached in time and managed to get the PWD guest room. And this called for another of the umpteen self shot image.
Dinner is early by 7 pm at the only eatery open. Roam about a little outside as long as evening sunlight is there.
Spent time cllicking these signboards showing distances from Sissu PWD towards Kaza and Manali side and towards Sarchu and Udaipur...
watching the cows return home..
and clicking that distant waterfall for which Sissu is also known for.
As dusk falls, head off to that simple eatery for early "dinner" at 7 pm. A kind of "wild west" feeling was there, a video printscreen shot of the eatery.
Rice, dal and omelets - not a problem at all. The other option for me was to set up my stove, pour kerosene in it and start cooking myself, and which will be Maggi.
The PWD guest house is absolutely empty, the caretaker has gone off to his village house giving me all the keys. Nothing much to do anyway, it is bitter cold and dark outside. By 8 pm, I am off to bed.
contd...