Team-BHP > Motorbikes > Bicycles


Reply
  Search this Thread
166,396 views
Old 20th May 2013, 21:34   #61
adc
Senior - BHPian
 
adc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Kolkata
Posts: 1,352
Thanked: 2,289 Times
Re: Extreme Expedition - Bicycling Manali-TsoKar-Leh-Khardungla & Stok Kangri summit

Quote:
Originally Posted by shipnil View Post
ADC, are the parts of the bicycle too expensive to replace or they are not readily available? I guess, it would have been better if you continued training with the same routine but embarked on the journey with new parts on your bicycle.
Quote:
Originally Posted by bblost View Post
Cycle parts are expensive thanks to the insane import duties.

I just replaced the chain and rear freewheel on my office commuter hybrid cycle. Total cost was almost 2500.

And adc had to use his bike in an extremely tough terrain.


The Trek4300D bicycle itself was costly for me, it is almost at the price of a entry level 100 cc motorcycle - and as such bought through credit card and the payment was promptly broken up in 12 monthly installments [incidentally May 2013 is the last payment date]. Moreover since my intended use is still only for long distance touring on the hills, I opted for hydraulic disc brakes which again added some 8-9k to the cost.

Most crucial parts for these kind of bikes most probably still comes through import and as such the price also reflects that.


Each tyre cost close to Rs 2000, chain most probably similar or more - and then there are all those various bearings and wear of brake pads and chain links. Definitely as I had already covered close to 1200 km on practice and if I had continued for the next 2 months on a similar pattern would have added at least another 1500 km. All these costs are my approx figures and I have a suspicion that in fact the price is more.

As such reasoned that it is better to stop and preserve the components for the final ride. And that same reasoning continues as the bicycle is in the store room, just very occasionally it was taken for a Sunday ride, max may be 5 or 6 times since this Ladakh journey now some 8 months back. Let me tell you that I absolutely enjoy when I ride the bicycle out here in the city, but still...

I planned on Sikkim mountain bike travel this month, but then I became occupied on some other things - if it had gone through I would have started riding the bicycle again around a month before the trip.


All in all just may be my own queer reasoning!

Last edited by adc : 20th May 2013 at 21:51.
adc is offline  
Old 20th May 2013, 21:43   #62
Team-BHP Support
 
bblost's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Hyderabad
Posts: 10,993
Thanked: 15,260 Times
Re: Extreme Expedition - Bicycling Manali-TsoKar-Leh-Khardungla & Stok Kangri summit

Quote:
Originally Posted by shipnil View Post
ADC, are the parts of the bicycle too expensive to replace or they are not readily available? I guess, it would have been better if you continued training with the same routine but embarked on the journey with new parts on your bicycle.
Cycle parts are expensive thanks to the insane import duties.

I just replaced the chain and rear freewheel on my office commuter hybrid cycle. Total cost was almost 2500.

And adc had to use his bike in an extremely tough terrain.
bblost is offline   (1) Thanks
Old 21st May 2013, 03:00   #63
adc
Senior - BHPian
 
adc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Kolkata
Posts: 1,352
Thanked: 2,289 Times
Re: Extreme Expedition - Bicycling Manali-TsoKar-Leh-Khardungla & Stok Kangri summit

Day 2 Kothi to Marhi : 30 km approx

Kothi [9000 ft] - Gulaba - Rahalla falls - Marhi [11500 ft]

Extreme Expedition - Bicycling Manali-TsoKar-Leh-Khardungla & Stok Kangri summit trek-kothi-marhi.jpg


September 22, 2012: A fine Saturday morning, sunny and good weather, but I am just somewhat a little bit agitated. Not because of thinking of the toil again, not because of the bare enough km done yesterday and not being able to reach Marhi [after all I was going with an open mind - if not possible to return back and then may be try again some other time] - but because when I thought of how everyone who I met including these hotel guys out here said it is better for me to go back - it is not possible for me [ of course all had a good reason of seeing me struggle hard on the first day ] and again in the morning when the hotel guy good-naturedly asks me if I am going back to Manali and starts to explain how only foreigners he has seen on his road travel by bicycle on their own ; I snap back - No, otherwise I would not have got up early.

I somehow had a new determination today - if I have stop and abort, it would be my own call - that moment made a very objective decision, let me try till Rhotang - if I am having problems or still having difficulty, would abort. There is always a next time - but as said it would be my call.

Anyway after that new found big mental bravado, had a good breakfast [never lost as good meal opportunity the premise that as I go up more towards the Rhotang and beyond, Maggi would be the only food choice], packed up all luggage again on the bicycle and start a little past 8:30 am.



The weather is comfortable, sky clear, the road from Kothi excellent with good tarmac but then again the inclines start right away but at least for now the gradient is gradual. As I start I come across this two guys from Bangalore [seen just below the Lays banner], doing a day trip till as possible on rented bicycles from Manali.
Extreme Expedition - Bicycling Manali-TsoKar-Leh-Khardungla & Stok Kangri summit trek-kothi-marhii4.jpg



The road after Kothi has no habitation and it goes through a fine jungle of silver birch and deodhar trees. Somehow I have less of a strain today - I attribute it to the new resolve and also conclude that body is more adjusting now to the uphill exertions but then also I do notice that from Kothi the gradient is though nagging is slightly more gradual than what was yesterday.
Extreme Expedition - Bicycling Manali-TsoKar-Leh-Khardungla & Stok Kangri summit trek-kothi-marhii5.jpg

Extreme Expedition - Bicycling Manali-TsoKar-Leh-Khardungla & Stok Kangri summit trek-kothi-marhii6.jpg

Extreme Expedition - Bicycling Manali-TsoKar-Leh-Khardungla & Stok Kangri summit trek-kothi-marhii7.jpg


Extreme Expedition - Bicycling Manali-TsoKar-Leh-Khardungla & Stok Kangri summit trek-kothi-marhii8.jpg Extreme Expedition - Bicycling Manali-TsoKar-Leh-Khardungla & Stok Kangri summit trek-kothi-marhii9.jpg

Extreme Expedition - Bicycling Manali-TsoKar-Leh-Khardungla & Stok Kangri summit trek-kothi-marhii11.jpg

Extreme Expedition - Bicycling Manali-TsoKar-Leh-Khardungla & Stok Kangri summit trek-kothi-marhii12.jpg

Extreme Expedition - Bicycling Manali-TsoKar-Leh-Khardungla & Stok Kangri summit trek-kothi-marhii13.jpg


Gulaba comes up some 8 km from Kothi. History says, this place is named after Raja Gulab Singh, ruler of Jammu and Kashmir who camped here on his way to invade China. There is no habitation out there, just some BRO tents and a couple of roadside dhabas. It gains prominence in winter as either a snowpoint in the winter months or as a mud bath during heavy rains but today with good repair and no heavy rains out here, I pass barely noticing it.




Quote:
As per the very recent Himachal Court order, no dhabas would be allowed beyond Kothi. [ http://articles.timesofindia.indiati...htang-hc-bench /// http://www.hindustantimes.com/India-...1-1061225.aspx ]
Beyond Gulaba the incline starts again a bit more and though I huff and puff and take breaks frequently, it is not that bad like last day, I do start to enjoy jungle road and greenery all around. A noticeable difference is there between the 2 days but then I have still some half the distance to go and the switchback gradients become more accentuated towards Marhi.

Extreme Expedition - Bicycling Manali-TsoKar-Leh-Khardungla & Stok Kangri summit trek-kothi-marhii14.jpg

Extreme Expedition - Bicycling Manali-TsoKar-Leh-Khardungla & Stok Kangri summit trek-kothi-marhii16.jpg



Around 9-10 km before Marhi, comes Rahalla falls, a popular tourist spot - the artificial waterfall is created by channelling the gushing waters of melting glaciers.
Extreme Expedition - Bicycling Manali-TsoKar-Leh-Khardungla & Stok Kangri summit trek-kothi-marhii17.jpg

Extreme Expedition - Bicycling Manali-TsoKar-Leh-Khardungla & Stok Kangri summit trek-kothi-marhii18.jpg

Extreme Expedition - Bicycling Manali-TsoKar-Leh-Khardungla & Stok Kangri summit trek-kothi-marhii22.jpg


At top of the falls, it provides a very clear view of the surroundings and one can see the majority of the switchbacks and almost the complete road climbed till for the last 5 hours from Kothi.
Extreme Expedition - Bicycling Manali-TsoKar-Leh-Khardungla & Stok Kangri summit trek-kothi-marhii19.jpg


I also take a good break here, it has been nonetheless very strenuous again though not almost unbearable like yesterday.
Extreme Expedition - Bicycling Manali-TsoKar-Leh-Khardungla & Stok Kangri summit trek-kothi-marhii21.jpg

Extreme Expedition - Bicycling Manali-TsoKar-Leh-Khardungla & Stok Kangri summit trek-kothi-marhii20.jpg


And soon again another self shot pic on way to Marhi
Extreme Expedition - Bicycling Manali-TsoKar-Leh-Khardungla & Stok Kangri summit trek-kothi-marhii23.jpg



Marhi comes just beyond this big U turn.
Extreme Expedition - Bicycling Manali-TsoKar-Leh-Khardungla & Stok Kangri summit trek-kothi-marhii24.jpg



Marhi is not actually a village, more of an unsightly mixture of some 15-20 dhabas, which also offer basic accommodation for overnight campers.


Reaching Marhi after some 6 hours of bicycling, I check into the one of the dhabas and after some haggling on price, get a room at Rs 200.
Extreme Expedition - Bicycling Manali-TsoKar-Leh-Khardungla & Stok Kangri summit trek-kothi-marhii26.jpg

Extreme Expedition - Bicycling Manali-TsoKar-Leh-Khardungla & Stok Kangri summit trek-kothi-marhii25.jpg


However towards the pasture land, where one own tents can be pitched, it does give fantastic views of the surrounding mountains.
Extreme Expedition - Bicycling Manali-TsoKar-Leh-Khardungla & Stok Kangri summit trek-kothi-marhii1.jpg


Though not as bad as yesterday, it still was physically and mentally draining particularly as I neared Marhi, where the gradients became more pronounced. This image clicked inadvertently by the restaurant boy at Marhi, who was just seeing and fiddling with the camera - as I waited for Maggi, omelletes and tea.
Extreme Expedition - Bicycling Manali-TsoKar-Leh-Khardungla & Stok Kangri summit trek-kothi-marhii2.jpg



Nothing much for the rest of the day, other than watching bits of a movie with the dhaba guys on the DTH while having a simple dinner of rotis and vegetables. Soon off to sleep, the nights are quite cold at the late September but blankets and the inners keep me pleasantly warm as soon fall asleep. And at this off-season, I have a whole 6-bed dhaba room for myself!
Extreme Expedition - Bicycling Manali-TsoKar-Leh-Khardungla & Stok Kangri summit trek-kothi-marhii3.jpg


Tomorrow, September 23, 2012, Sunday, is my big day, the first high altitude pass I hope to cross and that too unlike last night, I am positively hopeful - no doubt absolute strenuous it has been even today but still somehow after coming 2/3rds of the distance to Rhotang, the mood and resolve is definitely upbeat.


contd...

Last edited by adc : 21st May 2013 at 03:27.
adc is offline   (15) Thanks
Old 21st May 2013, 12:02   #64
BHPian
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Bhopal
Posts: 300
Thanked: 478 Times
Re: Extreme Expedition - Bicycling Manali-TsoKar-Leh-Khardungla & Stok Kangri summit

ADC

I have done the Manali - Leh highway twice in last 2 years BUT in the comforts of a 4x4 SUV. And that itself was not easy.
Looking from the perspective of a man doing it solo on a cycle i am just speechless. The first 2 day accounts speaks volumes of your tenacity. I am just loving you fight against High road... i am loving the brilliantly detailed narration of the journey .

The manali - leh highway is stunningly beautiful. Keep pedalling brother. It will be great to see the beauty of the road through the rims of your cycle.
columbus is offline   (2) Thanks
Old 21st May 2013, 14:29   #65
BHPian
 
Dodge_Viper's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Pune
Posts: 644
Thanked: 1,290 Times
Re: Extreme Expedition - Bicycling Manali-TsoKar-Leh-Khardungla & Stok Kangri summit

Quote:
Originally Posted by adc View Post
Particularly helpful was the mix of aerobic and anaerobic swimming. Both workouts burn many calories because they are full body workouts, anaerobic more than the aerobic. My routine of around 45-50 mts of swimming was: First 10 minutes was warm up and aerobic swimming, next 30-35 minutes was primarily anaerobic swimming, i.e., covering laps as far as possible with a single breath and vigorously swimming, and again the last 10 minutes being aerobic swimming
Your fitness schedule is really admirable. Need to learn a lot from you . Not to divert, but what exactly is anaerobic and aerobic swimming?
Dodge_Viper is online now   (1) Thanks
Old 21st May 2013, 19:04   #66
adc
Senior - BHPian
 
adc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Kolkata
Posts: 1,352
Thanked: 2,289 Times
Re: Extreme Expedition - Bicycling Manali-TsoKar-Leh-Khardungla & Stok Kangri summit

Day 3: Marhi - Rohtang la - Sissu : 45 km

Marhi [11,500 ft] - Rani nullah - Rohtang la [13,050 ft] - Gramphoo - Koksar - Sissu [10,100 ft]


Marhi to Rohtang

Extreme Expedition - Bicycling Manali-TsoKar-Leh-Khardungla & Stok Kangri summit trek-marhi-rhotang-la.jpg

Rohtang Pass to Sissu

Extreme Expedition - Bicycling Manali-TsoKar-Leh-Khardungla & Stok Kangri summit trek-rhotang-la-sissu.jpg



September 23, 2012: A sunny Sunday morning and quite refreshed from a good night of sleep, today is a big day for me - a significant day as one of the first passes to cross comes up, and more importantly I feel good today. The despondency of the first day was more or less gone by the second day [yesterday] and today with Rhotang close by [16-17 km from Marhi] and with the added incentive of having a downhill all the way to Koksar and almost flat land till Sissu, I was in high spirits.


Clear sunny Sunday morning of Sept 23, 2012 - a good breakfast of bread, omelets and a strong tea at 8 am.
Extreme Expedition - Bicycling Manali-TsoKar-Leh-Khardungla & Stok Kangri summit trek-marhi-rhotangi14.jpg


A video screenshot of leaving from Marhi at around 8:15 am - taken on request by a group of bikers from England, who also stopped out there for breakfast before Rohtang.
Extreme Expedition - Bicycling Manali-TsoKar-Leh-Khardungla & Stok Kangri summit trek-marhi-rhotangi37.jpg


The inclines and switchbacks continue but this time I am in peace with myself. Though the gradient gruelling, I have more or less understood that my pace with all the rest, photo stops, the general translate to 4-6 km/hr, and that is just about enough for me reach by 5:30-6, within sunlight hours, of course this prolonged the strenuous bicycling hours. Again as I repeat, my timings are not at all indicative, and an experienced cyclist with lesser breaks would be doing this in 45 km journey like in 4 hrs or less. So main thing is whatever you are comfortable with, it your own trip, your own travel so set your pace that you feel good in.


A stop here and there as the climb continues.
Extreme Expedition - Bicycling Manali-TsoKar-Leh-Khardungla & Stok Kangri summit trek-marhi-rhotangi16.jpg

Extreme Expedition - Bicycling Manali-TsoKar-Leh-Khardungla & Stok Kangri summit trek-marhi-rhotangi17.jpg


A Italian cyclist crosses me, he too is headed towards Rohtang and beyond to Leh. I see his luggage and mine - he himself asks me as to how long I have been on the road! He moves ahead as I cycle on at 4 km/hr
Extreme Expedition - Bicycling Manali-TsoKar-Leh-Khardungla & Stok Kangri summit trek-marhi-rhotangi18.jpg


The stops continue, both for a rest and also as pause to take a click.
Extreme Expedition - Bicycling Manali-TsoKar-Leh-Khardungla & Stok Kangri summit trek-marhi-rhotangi23.jpg



A glimpse of Marhi [from where the climb started today ] and some heights and switchbacks climbed
Extreme Expedition - Bicycling Manali-TsoKar-Leh-Khardungla & Stok Kangri summit trek-marhi-rhotangi20.jpg
Extreme Expedition - Bicycling Manali-TsoKar-Leh-Khardungla & Stok Kangri summit trek-marhi-rhotangi25.jpg



The tarmac that was holding is starting to deteriorate as it approaches Rani nullah and Rohtang. A stop for the dropped water bottle.
Extreme Expedition - Bicycling Manali-TsoKar-Leh-Khardungla & Stok Kangri summit trek-marhi-rhotangi19.jpg


As I progress towards Rani nullah, the most unexpected person I cross by, a chana wala with all his load on his head, and he too is headed towards Rohtang. He is taking the steep short cuts, possible only by foot.
Extreme Expedition - Bicycling Manali-TsoKar-Leh-Khardungla & Stok Kangri summit trek-marhi-rhotangi21.jpg


I am now approaching Rani nullah, the smooth tarmac is gone and has deteriorated quite a lot - it is bumpy now with small rocks and sharp pebbles. Rani nullah is a place famous for glacier snow walls in winter season and a cascading waterfall in the summers but then it is also a major bottleneck while going towards Rohtang for its muddy track, a constant sliding zone and landslides, slush more so with even small amount of rain and the major traffic jams that ensues. As for me I am mostly worried about deep slush and mud, and then inevitable drudgery of pushing the bicycle. With that load, picking it up is out of question.



contd...

Last edited by adc : 21st May 2013 at 19:21.
adc is offline   (7) Thanks
Old 21st May 2013, 22:21   #67
adc
Senior - BHPian
 
adc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Kolkata
Posts: 1,352
Thanked: 2,289 Times
Re: Extreme Expedition - Bicycling Manali-TsoKar-Leh-Khardungla & Stok Kangri summit

Day 3: Marhi - Rohtang la - Sissu : 45 km .....contd.


I had queried about Rani nallah from the chanawala and he gave the assurance that area is now much more better and repaired than before; there are no landslides or blockages at the present moment.


A couple of slush and muddy areas crossed but those in the know would not consider this that not much when compared to what it becomes during the bad times. But of course the tarmac is long gone now, it is either a muddy or a rocky bumpy jarring ride.
Extreme Expedition - Bicycling Manali-TsoKar-Leh-Khardungla & Stok Kangri summit trek-marhi-rhotangi22.jpg

Extreme Expedition - Bicycling Manali-TsoKar-Leh-Khardungla & Stok Kangri summit trek-marhi-rhotangi39.jpg

Rani nallah and it was an absolutely no problem area on Sept 23, 2012.
Extreme Expedition - Bicycling Manali-TsoKar-Leh-Khardungla & Stok Kangri summit trek-marhi-rhotangi27.jpg

Extreme Expedition - Bicycling Manali-TsoKar-Leh-Khardungla & Stok Kangri summit trek-marhi-rhotangi38.jpg


...and the track beside it.
Extreme Expedition - Bicycling Manali-TsoKar-Leh-Khardungla & Stok Kangri summit trek-marhi-rhotangi26.jpg



And add to it for a bicyclist as one approaches Rhotang - dust and diesel fumes of lumbering buses and trucks and tourist taxis who are always in a hurry. From here [Rani nallah] it is around 6 km to the top.
Extreme Expedition - Bicycling Manali-TsoKar-Leh-Khardungla & Stok Kangri summit trek-marhi-rhotangi10.jpg

Extreme Expedition - Bicycling Manali-TsoKar-Leh-Khardungla & Stok Kangri summit trek-marhi-rhotangi13.jpg


But the excitement is high too, finally I see no more switchbacks, just beyond this corner I should get Rhotang pass view
Extreme Expedition - Bicycling Manali-TsoKar-Leh-Khardungla & Stok Kangri summit trek-marhi-rhotangi28.jpg



And then there it is, I am elated - finally after the 2 days of toil here I am.
Extreme Expedition - Bicycling Manali-TsoKar-Leh-Khardungla & Stok Kangri summit trek-marhi-rhotangi29.jpg

Extreme Expedition - Bicycling Manali-TsoKar-Leh-Khardungla & Stok Kangri summit trek-marhi-rhotangi30.jpg

A third time for me at Rohtang - first while going back to Manali completing the Spiti Loop, 2nd time during our Ladakh and Changthang trip in Oct 2010, but today it is special. Once at the top, the tarmac suddenly reappears like a magician's trick.

Quote:
Rohtang Pass

At an elevation of 3,978 m (13,051 ft), above the sea level, Rohtang Pass (or Rohtam Pass) serves as the gateway to Lahaul and Spiti valleys in Himachal Pradesh. About 53 km from Manali, it connects Kullu valley with Lahaul and Spiti which in turn provide access to Leh.

The name Rohtang means ‘ground of corpses’ due to the number of people who lost their lives trying to cross it. The Rohtang Pass is on the Pir Panjal Mountain Range of the Himalayas.

Besides Lahaul and Spiti, Rohtang Pass also serves as the gateway to Pangi and the valley of Leh. Like the Zojila Pass, Rohtang also serves as the gateway to Ladakh.

The Rohtang Pass is a natural divide between the humid Kullu Valley which has a predominant Hindu culture and the arid, high altitude Lahaul and Spiti Valleys which are predominantly Buddhist.
The pass is on the watershed between the water basins of the Chenab River and the Beas River

More about it here
A few thin patches of snow just remained somewhere high on the slopes. Tourists, some dressed in full set of snow clothing and high gumboots were being taken over there to stomp out whatever remained. From fried corns to soups to chanas everything is available at Rhotang for a price. It is like a mela ground at 13k feet. Though the fact is the crowd and vehicles that is seen today is actually much less than what happens if it had been a tourist season.


Soon I head off to a tent dhaba run for Maggi and omelette and two cups of hot tea.
Extreme Expedition - Bicycling Manali-TsoKar-Leh-Khardungla & Stok Kangri summit trek-marhi-rhotangi31.jpg


And as food was being prepared, a couple of snaps of myself and the bicycle at Rohtang - a memorable day for both us.
Extreme Expedition - Bicycling Manali-TsoKar-Leh-Khardungla & Stok Kangri summit trek-marhi-rhotangi32.jpg

Extreme Expedition - Bicycling Manali-TsoKar-Leh-Khardungla & Stok Kangri summit trek-marhi-rhotangi34.jpg

Extreme Expedition - Bicycling Manali-TsoKar-Leh-Khardungla & Stok Kangri summit trek-marhi-rhotangi1.jpg

Extreme Expedition - Bicycling Manali-TsoKar-Leh-Khardungla & Stok Kangri summit trek-marhi-rhotangi40.jpg



And the bicycle gathered some extra attention too, a video screen shot of a couple along with their photographer
Extreme Expedition - Bicycling Manali-TsoKar-Leh-Khardungla & Stok Kangri summit trek-marhi-rhotangi11.jpg

But the best would be and I do not have that in video is a kind of dudes come up and asks more about the bicycle and one blurts out about where is the self starter, but to his credit he corrects himself soon!!!



The hard toil has left its mark on the cap - salt marks from the perspiration. The temperatures are however quite low late Sept month and the moment one stops the cycling, it feels quite cold.
Extreme Expedition - Bicycling Manali-TsoKar-Leh-Khardungla & Stok Kangri summit trek-marhi-rhotangi35.jpg


Rohtang is noted for sudden change of weather and fog, but today being all clear till now the switchbacks and even one could see Marhi from up here. Looking carefully a couple of paragliders out there can also be seen in this photo, just above the truck.
Extreme Expedition - Bicycling Manali-TsoKar-Leh-Khardungla & Stok Kangri summit trek-marhi-rhotangi2.jpg

Extreme Expedition - Bicycling Manali-TsoKar-Leh-Khardungla & Stok Kangri summit trek-marhi-rhotangi36.jpg



From where the tents and dhabas are located, actual top is located about some distance and that is marked by the prayer flags. And the time has now come for another experience that I was waiting for. A downhill run after pedalling and straining for close to 2-1/2 days. I plan to stay either at Koksar [approx 15 km from Rohtang] from or if possible go a further 15+ km to Sissu but dark clouds were gathering at a distance. I have spent almost 1 hour at the top, and it is around by 1:20 pm I start from here [Rhotang].
Extreme Expedition - Bicycling Manali-TsoKar-Leh-Khardungla & Stok Kangri summit trek-marhi-rhotangi4.jpg


contd...

Last edited by adc : 21st May 2013 at 22:48.
adc is offline   (9) Thanks
Old 22nd May 2013, 03:34   #68
adc
Senior - BHPian
 
adc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Kolkata
Posts: 1,352
Thanked: 2,289 Times
Re: Extreme Expedition - Bicycling Manali-TsoKar-Leh-Khardungla & Stok Kangri summit

Day 3: Marhi - Rohtang la - Sissu : 45 km .....contd.

Having bicycled all along at Kolkata which is of all of 20 ft height above sea level, the biggest downhills have been the flyover that I used to take during my practice runs which lasted all of 10 secs or less!

The more the strain on a climb, the greater a cyclist cherish a downhill; and that brief one during the small run to around Palchan and back to Manali on "Day E" just gave me an idea of how fantastic it would be on a big proper high altitude pass downhill - like this one should be. Almost 3000 ft down from Rohtang top, the downhill is all the way to Khokhsar, approx 17 km of absolutely minimal pedal input. Gravity zindabad!!


But then for a cyclist to enjoy a downhill, the surface be at least somewhat tarmac all through. And one will error in thought when after seeing that beautiful surface which appeared magically just near Rohtang and at the top - it again magically disappears just after crossing the top. The road downhill is a mostly rutted dirt road with brief patches of dodgy tarmac in between.

The Rohtang downhill towards Sissu will be a great letdown in terms of surface expectation. It ranges from horrendous mud to bumpy rough dirt track to bare enough tarmac at some places.
Extreme Expedition - Bicycling Manali-TsoKar-Leh-Khardungla & Stok Kangri summit trek-rhotang-sissui16.jpg

Extreme Expedition - Bicycling Manali-TsoKar-Leh-Khardungla & Stok Kangri summit trek-rhotang-sissui22.jpg

Extreme Expedition - Bicycling Manali-TsoKar-Leh-Khardungla & Stok Kangri summit trek-rhotang-sissui23.jpg

Extreme Expedition - Bicycling Manali-TsoKar-Leh-Khardungla & Stok Kangri summit trek-rhotang-sissui24.jpg

Extreme Expedition - Bicycling Manali-TsoKar-Leh-Khardungla & Stok Kangri summit trek-rhotang-sissui27.jpg



But I am not all complaining; the amazing distant view of snow peaks, the shades of greenery, the verdant valley along the River Chandra keeps me engaged. I had to stop here for this self-shot pic. I also notice that a dark clouds are progressing from what would be the Lahaul Spiti side.
Extreme Expedition - Bicycling Manali-TsoKar-Leh-Khardungla & Stok Kangri summit trek-rhotang-sissui15.jpg

Extreme Expedition - Bicycling Manali-TsoKar-Leh-Khardungla & Stok Kangri summit trek-rhotang-sissui17.jpg

Extreme Expedition - Bicycling Manali-TsoKar-Leh-Khardungla & Stok Kangri summit trek-rhotang-sissui30.jpg

Extreme Expedition - Bicycling Manali-TsoKar-Leh-Khardungla & Stok Kangri summit trek-rhotang-sissui29.jpg

Extreme Expedition - Bicycling Manali-TsoKar-Leh-Khardungla & Stok Kangri summit trek-rhotang-sissui13.jpg


Nearing Gramphu the road surface returns back to somewhat okay and becomes better as I progress towards Khokhsar.
Extreme Expedition - Bicycling Manali-TsoKar-Leh-Khardungla & Stok Kangri summit trek-rhotang-sissui1.jpg


Gramphu is the bifurcation from where one road branches off towards Lahaul and Spiti side including Chandratal Lake. Keylong is 51 km and Kaza 137 km from Gramphu. It is more of small truck stop, just a couple of rundown dhabas and a tyre puncture shop.
Extreme Expedition - Bicycling Manali-TsoKar-Leh-Khardungla & Stok Kangri summit trek-rhotang-sissui31.jpg


Kokhsar comes up soon after Gramphu. There are number of dhabas and as such places to eat out here. Some double up as a place to stay and a proper PWD guest house is also there. Foreigners are required to register at the police post in Khoksar, down by the river.
Extreme Expedition - Bicycling Manali-TsoKar-Leh-Khardungla & Stok Kangri summit trek-rhotang-sissui2.jpg


I stop here for a hot chai and maggi noodles, and on further talk, the owner told me that Sissu is around 15 km from here and more importantly the road is mostly flat to slight downhill and is a better scenic place. Having reached Khokhsar at 3:30 pm, I took his idea to go to Sissu and try the PWD guest house there.


As told, it was a mostly flat to a slight downhill run to Sissu with the ranging Chandra flowing by. Amazing experience again. Also notice see the dark clouds and definitely rain along with it catching up.
Extreme Expedition - Bicycling Manali-TsoKar-Leh-Khardungla & Stok Kangri summit trek-rhotang-sissui41.jpg


I do ride fast, fantastic tarmac again and also there is a cool breeze but that is in favour of me i.e., not a headwind. The weather hold on and other than some very few drops of rain. On towards Sissu, riding along River Chandra.
Extreme Expedition - Bicycling Manali-TsoKar-Leh-Khardungla & Stok Kangri summit trek-rhotang-sissui3.jpg


In between if one will pass the small tiny village of Teling - a name that will become hugely prominent by 2015 or so as the northern end of the under construction Rohtang tunnel meets here.


The quaint and the much more picturesque village of Sissu comes up soon, and definitely much better views than Khokhsar. Stop and ask about PWD location over here [a video printscreen shot] - told that it is just a little further ahead.
Extreme Expedition - Bicycling Manali-TsoKar-Leh-Khardungla & Stok Kangri summit trek-rhotang-sissui20.jpg


Reach Sissu PWD by 4:30 pm - which turns out to be absolutely empty at that tourist off-season month of September. Go off in search of the caretaker who is found at the one and only eatery that is open at that late month. All others have closed down for this year.

No hassles to get a room then and there, absolutely empty with no tourists or officials, of course great rooms all for a few hundred rupees.
Extreme Expedition - Bicycling Manali-TsoKar-Leh-Khardungla & Stok Kangri summit trek-rhotang-sissui8.jpg

Extreme Expedition - Bicycling Manali-TsoKar-Leh-Khardungla & Stok Kangri summit trek-rhotang-sissui5.jpg

Extreme Expedition - Bicycling Manali-TsoKar-Leh-Khardungla & Stok Kangri summit trek-rhotang-sissui4.jpg


I thoroughly enjoyed today; my confidence is at an all time high having travelled from Marhi and crossed the high pass, reached in time and managed to get the PWD guest room. And this called for another of the umpteen self shot image.
Extreme Expedition - Bicycling Manali-TsoKar-Leh-Khardungla & Stok Kangri summit trek-rhotang-sissui6.jpg


Dinner is early by 7 pm at the only eatery open. Roam about a little outside as long as evening sunlight is there.

Spent time cllicking these signboards showing distances from Sissu PWD towards Kaza and Manali side and towards Sarchu and Udaipur...
Extreme Expedition - Bicycling Manali-TsoKar-Leh-Khardungla & Stok Kangri summit trek-rhotang-sissui7.jpg Extreme Expedition - Bicycling Manali-TsoKar-Leh-Khardungla & Stok Kangri summit trek-rhotang-sissui19.jpg

watching the cows return home..
Extreme Expedition - Bicycling Manali-TsoKar-Leh-Khardungla & Stok Kangri summit trek-rhotang-sissui10.jpg

and clicking that distant waterfall for which Sissu is also known for.
Extreme Expedition - Bicycling Manali-TsoKar-Leh-Khardungla & Stok Kangri summit trek-rhotang-sissui9.jpg


As dusk falls, head off to that simple eatery for early "dinner" at 7 pm. A kind of "wild west" feeling was there, a video printscreen shot of the eatery.
Extreme Expedition - Bicycling Manali-TsoKar-Leh-Khardungla & Stok Kangri summit trek-rhotang-sissui18.jpg


Rice, dal and omelets - not a problem at all. The other option for me was to set up my stove, pour kerosene in it and start cooking myself, and which will be Maggi.
Extreme Expedition - Bicycling Manali-TsoKar-Leh-Khardungla & Stok Kangri summit trek-rhotang-sissui11.jpg



The PWD guest house is absolutely empty, the caretaker has gone off to his village house giving me all the keys. Nothing much to do anyway, it is bitter cold and dark outside. By 8 pm, I am off to bed.
Extreme Expedition - Bicycling Manali-TsoKar-Leh-Khardungla & Stok Kangri summit trek-rhotang-sissui12.jpg



contd...

Last edited by adc : 22nd May 2013 at 03:52.
adc is offline   (11) Thanks
Old 22nd May 2013, 08:45   #69
Distinguished - BHPian
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Delhi
Posts: 8,037
Thanked: 49,782 Times
Re: Extreme Expedition - Bicycling Manali-TsoKar-Leh-Khardungla & Stok Kangri summit

That is one great adventure. Thanks for sharing.
I would love to this some time. But you are!

Jeroen
Jeroen is offline   (1) Thanks
Old 22nd May 2013, 09:43   #70
BHPian
 
MohsinRoadster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Bangalore
Posts: 301
Thanked: 31 Times
Re: Extreme Expedition - Bicycling Manali-TsoKar-Leh-Khardungla & Stok Kangri summit

No words ADC, no words. Every travelouge of yours seem to be getting more and more adventurous. I must confess that of all the threads here I enjoy yours the most.

Keep going!!
MohsinRoadster is offline   (1) Thanks
Old 22nd May 2013, 12:14   #71
Senior - BHPian
 
srishiva's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Bengaluru
Posts: 4,375
Thanked: 2,256 Times
Re: Extreme Expedition - Bicycling Manali-TsoKar-Leh-Khardungla & Stok Kangri summit

Nothing much left to say. Hope you could tell us what things were sufficient to carry along in your bicycle after the experience.
srishiva is offline   (1) Thanks
Old 22nd May 2013, 12:42   #72
Senior - BHPian
 
rkbharat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Gurgaon/New Delhi
Posts: 1,601
Thanked: 724 Times
Re: Extreme Expedition - Bicycling Manali-TsoKar-Leh-Khardungla & Stok Kangri summit

awesome and inspirational stuff ADC.

I was reading your Warwan log, will be hitting same sections in June.
rkbharat is offline   (1) Thanks
Old 22nd May 2013, 13:10   #73
Senior - BHPian
 
KSM-Vtec's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: MH-02-India-Bombay-Bandra
Posts: 1,562
Thanked: 446 Times
Re: Extreme Expedition - Bicycling Manali-TsoKar-Leh-Khardungla & Stok Kangri summit

I am speechless ADC Sir!!!! This is next level stuff!!!!

Goosebumps
Goosebumps
Goosebumps

Don't know how i missed this thread!

Last edited by KSM-Vtec : 22nd May 2013 at 13:11.
KSM-Vtec is offline   (1) Thanks
Old 22nd May 2013, 13:57   #74
Senior - BHPian
 
dkaile's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Meerut, India
Posts: 3,352
Thanked: 7,435 Times
Re: Extreme Expedition - Bicycling Manali-TsoKar-Leh-Khardungla & Stok Kangri summit

Absolutely brilliant, inspiring and herculean task completed by you!! Though I too will be touching the wrong side of forty soon, I am still garnering courage to attempt this on a motorised vehicle! Your grit and determination is motivational to say the least.

Hats off to you adc.

Last edited by dkaile : 22nd May 2013 at 14:03.
dkaile is online now   (1) Thanks
Old 22nd May 2013, 14:26   #75
Senior - BHPian
 
jacs's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Kochi
Posts: 1,498
Thanked: 1,047 Times
Re: Extreme Expedition - Bicycling Manali-TsoKar-Leh-Khardungla & Stok Kangri summit

ADC - Took a while to go through this TL. Worth every second reading it. Very inspiring. Congrats .

Equipment List is one best thing you did for the readers, very very useful.
jacs is offline   (1) Thanks
Reply

Most Viewed
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Team-BHP.com
Proudly powered by E2E Networks