[adc]

Day 4: Sissu - Gondhla - Tandi - Keylong : 31 km





With the challenge of Rohtang behind and from a start from Sissu, a cyclist has quite a few options depending on the pace and breaks one chooses : #1, to Keylong, the district headquarters of Lahaul & Spiti - 31 km from Sissu or #2, to Jispa another another 30 from Keylong or 61 km from Sissu or #3, to Darcha another 7 km from Jispa. And still more, if in race mode and intend to cut down days drastically some can even stretch to Patseo that is a kind of a cannonball run for this sector. Of course in making a decision, the first thing to take into account is inclines and gradient; distance and time relationship is totally different from that of a motor vehicle.


I would categorize like this: if you need a budget hotel but still want good food, a good hot bath that would be your last bath before Leh, some internet connection suddenly through Airtel GSM, ATM money - a Keylong stop may be needed. But if you are in a supported bicycle journey most probably Jispa would be your next halt, as it much more scenic. Also the journey from Keylong to Jispa is downhill, however for stay options are quite costlier than Keylong unless you get the PWD room. And taking the third option to Darcha, one does save a day in between - dhaba accommodation here only; the last of the BSNL phone lines are still available over here.



Anyway for me today is my chill day. A whole lot of good buzz of the Rohtang cross is still there in this 3-day old newbie mountain biker! Add to that PWD super comfort mattresses and blankets. After an almost solid 12 hours of rest and breakfast on noodles, omelets, bananas for fruit, and a double cup of hot tea with biscuits , it was only by around 9:30 am that I was ready to start.

A bicycle's chain is just as critical a component for a bike as, say, your legs. It's responsible for transmitting the power from the pedals to the rear wheel, and it must be properly cared for in order to do its job. Water and dirt are a chain's worst enemies, especially when they work together. When small particles of dirt get trapped in water, they act like sandpaper on the critical surfaces of the chain.

*Increase the rate of chain wear.
*Interfere with the flexibility of individual chain links.
*Increase the wear and tear on derailleur assemblies and drivetrain cogs.
*Impair your shifting performance.

Keeping your chain clean and well-lubricated is the best thing you can do for it. The cleaning part is crucial, because adding fresh lube onto a nasty chain doesn't help anything.

Source

Rohtang due to its mud areas will leave the bicycle's chain and its related components all black covered with dirt and grit. Crossing Rohtang Pass and entering into Chandra river valley in Lahaul vally one enters the rain-shadow area and in this September months and in general the more we head towards Leh, the less the precipation.

I would strongly suggest cleaning the bicycle's chain and its related components once after Rohtang mud and dirt - just once at least in this 500 km journey.





The ride starts with 11-12 km of gradual gradient and climb to Gondla. The road is mostly good and tarred keeps steadily climbing some 800 ft above the Sissu.




A line of oil tankers as seen on the opposite side, I too am headed that side while towards Keylong.



This seemed like a fertile valley this side of Rohtang. Agriculture included mainly peas and potato and this villages looked quite self-sufficient.



The result of some lax packing - the bungee cords have loosened. From the start, the spare tyre continued at this temporary position on the handle bar and soon all those bits of packets and bags started falling out.



A rest and a re-pack, another self-shot photo opportunity on this lonely tourist free road, end Sept 2012.



Now the tent falls off.




As I as again rearrange the luggage, this BRO labourer from Dumka, Jharkhand, helps me out holding the bicycle as I re-tighten the cords. A simple and gem of a lad - he along with others will soon head back to their homes, by October.



Great weather, beautiful valley, I stop often for the hills and farms below on this relaxed day of bicycling.






A stop also too for an ongoing road work.




From Gondla, a smooth tarmac downhill to Tandi - again to the Chandra river basin.






Tandi - Anyone who does not want to run out fuel while on a motor vehicle going towards Leh, would know about Tandi - the last petrol pump before Leh which is around 372 km from here. The petrol pump is owned by Lahul Potato Growers Co-operative society, one of the many business ventures that are managed by this cooperative. Chandra and Bhaga river merge here to form Chandrabhaga [Chenab], flowing off towards Udaipur and later JK and beyond..

TANDI

The village is situated above the confluence of the rivers Chandra and Bhaga in the Pattan valley some 7 kms away from Keylong. Revenue and settlement records reveal that Tandi was founded by Raja Rana Chand Ram under the name of Chandi which over the years got corrupted into Tandi.

There are atleast three mythological stories connected with Tandi. First, Tandi is believed to means Tan Dehi, i.e., giving up of the body. This is associated with Draupadi, the wife of Pandav. as, who left her body at this place. Second, this is believed that Rishi Vashishtha who meditated near the hot water springs of Manali was cremated at this confluence; hence named Tandi, i.e., body consumed. According to the third, Chandra and Bhaga were son and daughter of the Moon and the Sun gods respectively. They were in love with each other. To perform their celestial marriage they decided to climb the Baralacha-la and from there run in opposite directions encircling a vast tract of Lahaul. Thus flowing south-east and south-west both met at Tandi to enter the wedlock. Source

Unlike our Oct 2010 Safari Ladakh + Changthang drive, Tandi is just another photo opportunity for Mountain Knight [the bicycle] and me.





Reach Tandi around 12:30 pm and a basic lunch is done over here at this dhaba just before the bridge.









The road to Udaipur and Killar [Pangi Valley] branch off from Tandi; it brings memory of our 2011 Safari expedition across Sach Pass to Killar and that chap rasta and beyond travel.



Keylong is around 8 km from Tandi and is a nagging uphill all throughout, River Bhaga now at the side.



A big uphill U-turn and Keylong is almost reached, the incline starts and continues from Tandi.




Entering Keylong, the district head quarters of Lahaul and Spifi.

KEYLONG

Keylong is the district head quarters of Lahaul and Spifi. At an altitude of 3156 m. Keylong is situated on the main trade route between the Rohtang and Baralacha passes above the Bhaga river. Most of the government offices are located at Keylong. This is also the hub-centre of all commercial activity with a regular bazaar. Naturally Keylong is the most populated and busy village of the Lahaul valley.

Keylong has a number of hotels of all types. Leaving the main road and down towards the lower Keylong part, i.e., towards the bus stand, one would find the budget hotels and guest houses.

Soon I decide on one too, Mount Meru it is named. Simple yet an absolutely clean room and a bathroom with running hot water, all for Rs 300 at this off-season tourist month of September. This image of the hotel is from the next day as I left Keylong on 24th Sept.



Reached Keylong around 3:15 or so. I could have gone continued to Jispa but as said for all the reasons of point #1, I stay here.


Enough time I have today in hand. After some chat and gossip with the hotel owner and some of his friends, I roam around to fix up a good dinner at one of the upmarket hotels. Keylong is the last place where one would get "good" food before Maggi and omelets make their return as the only menu.


Hotel Gyespa is an upmarket hotel, almost closing for the season, but then they fixed up a great tasty dish of chicken curry and hot tawa rotis...


...and all taken in to the last morsel.




Night is spent on the internet checking out the mails and coordinating work as best possible with Airtel GSM 2G connection. Another fine bicycle riding day comes to an end. Tomorrow is again a short riding day as I intend to go till Darcha, from where it is all uphill as the 16,000+ ft Baralacha la looms ahead.


contd...


contd...

[Rudra Sen]

Originally Posted by adc

...and all taken in to the last morsel.

It's only natural after a long time having only dal/rice, egg and Maggi. That too with one and a half green chilli.

It's nice to see most of road from Koksar to Keylong in good condition. Many years ago (2006) our max speed was 15kmph on that stretch. There was not even a meter of tarred tarmac.

Fantastic write up as usual!

[21Archer84]

Hats off to you and the Mountain Knight. It's one hell of a ride you had. One of the best travelogues I've ever come across. Waiting for more.

Deserves ***** for the narration and excellent clicks !!!

[himadrimondal]

This has become like a daily TV serial, each post of yours is like an episode and eagerly awaited.
Just if somebody could have accompanied you with a video camera, would have been an awesome documentary.

[adc]

Day 4: Keylong [10,100 ft] - Gemur - Jispa [10,800 ft] - Darcha [11,020 ft] : 37 km [approx.]

Now the valley narrows, and the road remains high on the constricting walls of its gorge, passing the two Buddhist monasteries of Tayul and Gemur. It opens out again at Darcha, into a wide plain where the principal trail to Zanskar, along the Barai Nala and over the Shingo-la, diverges from the main road.

Across the river, a trekking route takes off through the mountains to the south and east, and back to the Chandra valley. On again, still following the course of the Bhaga, to the bridge at Patseo, till the 1950s an important meeting-place for traders from Zanskar, Kullu and Rupshu as well as Lahul itself, where salt and wool from the high-altitude lands ahead were bartered for food-grains, tea and other essential commodities brought up from Kullu and Zanskar. ---- from the book Ladakh - Crossroads of High Asia, by Janet Rizvi Source

At Keylong, if some one wants to stay a day over and explore monasteries, here are the list of the important ones out in this region

Guru Ghantal Monastery
Guru Ghantal Monastery is situated on the right bank of Chandra river about 4 kms. above Tandi and is believed to be the oldest Gompa of Lahaul having wooden structure with pyramidal roofs, wood carving, preserving the idols of Padmasambhava and Brajeshwari Devi. On the full moon night in mid-June a festival called "GHANTAL" is celebrated by Lamas and Thakurs together.

Khardong Monastery: About 5 kms. from Keylong across Bhaga river. It is believed to be built in 12th century. This monastery has a large library of Kangyur and Tangyur volumes of Buddhist scriptures in Bhoti.

Shashur Monastery: It is situated on a hill about 3 kms from Keylong in Lahaul and Spiti district towards north. During June/ July this monastery attracts a large number of visitors when Lamas perform the devil dance. It was founded in the 17th century AD. It belongs to red hat sect and is located among the blue pines. The paintings represent the history of 84 Buddhas.

Tayul Gompa: Around 6 kms. from Keylong in the Lahaul and Spiti district and is one of the oldest monasteries of the valley having a huge statue of Guru Padmasamhava about 5 m high and houses library of Kangyur having 101 volumes. In Tibetan language Ta-Yul means the chosen place.

As for me I am headed for now to Jispa and beyond. An early morning rise today and a fresh hot bath at that guest house [next one is possible only at Leh], I am ready to move forward by 8 am - plan to cycle till either to Darcha where some dhabas are there or at Patseo where there should be at least one dhaba still standing in this off season and also there is the last HP PWD guest house in this off season.





From lower Keylong, connecting back to the NH21 high road of Manali-Leh.





The first half of the road to Jispa is a gradual incline, good tarmac to begin with, hugging the cliff mountain walls and with the deep gorge of river Bhaga flowing on the other side.





Long and gradual switchbacks till around halfway to Jispa.







Not contended with the all those self shots, I thought of having a pic and also a video of me in the process of cycling as I took a switchback turn. Having propped the camera on the rock ledge.

Gave the timer and tried to take a shot like where I am exactly at the turn. Tried a few times and this is the best I could get, I was loosing time and also it was too much of an effort to go down the incline again and pedal again up and beyond the u-turn for the photo/video shoot.




Readers would recall the Italian who passed me on my climb to Rohtang. As I was doing all those antics at this switchback, the Italian cyclist crosses me again, which surprised me somewhat. I had expected him to have already crossed Baralacha la; he stayed at Keylong for 2 days. We wished each other good luck again and he moved on as I continued on my failed attempt of getting that U-turn cycling shot.



After spending a futile 20-25 mts over there, both time and effort wasted, back to cycling on towards Jispa and beyond.



contd...

[samarjitdhar]

Each post brings a smile to my face as I see how you thoroughly enjoyed your adventure. I am beginning to realize that this trip you did was not about proving or achieving something. It was purely about enjoying life. I mean I don't think I have found any better description about how to experience and enjoy one's own life by doing things that pleases you. This what you did and Kamen_Rider who kayaked all the way to Goa are the perfect descriptions to me, something which comes straight out of the heart. All of us want it badly in some way or the other, very few like you actually do it . Cheers to you ADC da.

[adc]

Day 4: Keylong - Darcha ....contd.


The intial gradual incline of around 800 ft from Keylong towards Jispa bring outs great views of farmlands along the river Bhaga, which originates from Suraj Tal





A view of a part of the switchbacks climbed en route Jispa.



Enjoying the valley views, this milestone snaps back - announcing the looming presence of 16,000 ft Baralacha la, some 60 km ahead.



After some around 12-14 km of gradual climb and a wait for this line of trucks to pass by; the downhill had some part of loose gravel to start with and as such some caution was needed.



From the top of the downhill, the beautiful valley of Jispa by river Bhaga



This image, from our Oct 2010 trip, one of my fav. picture of Bhaga valley of Jispa

Jispa : Some 4 km ahead of Gemur, located on the bank of Bhaga river is the beautiful village of Jispa. There is a big camping ground. The village is situated at the junction of two nullahs with the main river Bhaga. Jispa has a very large dry river-bed, a rarity in Lahaul. Just on the edge of the river Bhaga is a small PWD rest house. The place is virtually an angler's delight. Good juniper plantation is around this village

While travelling from Manali side by vehicle, this is the best place to stay around here - not only for making that break in the journey while going towards Leh but the natural scenic vista of Jispa make it a destination by itself.

The top hotel out there is Hotel Ibex. Other than that for budget is the PWD guest house and a few homestays. Swiss tent accommodation is also quite in demand during the season time. One can even do their own camping out here by dry river bank of Bhaga.

Staying in Jispa, the must do is to go up to the river bank and hear and feel the gurgling Bhaga go by. A monastery and a museum is also there. We had halted at Jispa itself in Oct 2010 and stayed at the PWD guest house, along with a evening drive and stroll to the Bhaga bank [ pics on that Ladakh travel thread].


In this late Sept, Jispa is deserted. I let out a chuckle as I see this, the loos are what are left of what formed a part of Swiss tent accommodation over here during the tourist season times.



A cycle image shot of Jispa and I move on towards Darcha







contd...

[adc]

Day 4: Keylong - Darcha ....contd.


Darcha is 7 km from Jispa. It will be all incline now till to the Baralachala top.


But for now it is time to still enjoy the views as the road again climbs from the Bhaga river basin

DARCHA: Situated at the junction of Yotche nullah and the Zangskar chhu which takes off from the Shinkun la. Both these nullahs meet with the main river Bhaga at this place. The valley broadens out from Darcha.

Darcha is the jumping off point for treks to Padum over the Shinkun la or Baralacha la and Phirtse la and for treks or mountaineering expeditions to Leh and peaks of Chandra Bhaga series. However no tourist bungalow or rest house facilities are available on either side of the nullahs. A police check post is also there. Darcha is the last village where one can see sparse growth of trees. Beyond Darcha not even a single tree can be seen on either side of the highway. Landscape starts looking desolate and absolutely barren.

By around 12:30 pm, I enter Darcha. Patseo is around 14 km from here, quite doable by sunlight taking my average speed of 4-5 km/hr on inclines with rest and photo breaks. I though intend to stay at Darcha, the last of the phone calls that can be made for quite sometime to home and for work co-ordination as possible.

Also I came to know that at Patseo, end Sept, there is a just 1 ragtag of a dhaba standing and though the PWD guest house is all probability is empty and available, looking out for the caretaker with dusk approaching can be an ordeal if he is not staying over there.


In end Sept, there are 2 dhabas open, first one Rewa and the 2nd one Lama. Rewa looked just somewhat "better" from outside; run by an wonderful mother-daughter duo, the decision was made to stay here for the night; bed charges Rs 200 for a night



Approaching Darcha



Inside Rewa dhaba. Lunch - maggi and omelets



I had enough time to while away, having reached here by 12:30 pm. It is quite cold out here now at Darcha; sit outside in the sun for sometime and then roam around to here and there.



Darcha's lone puncture repair shop.



There is also a police check post where all vehicle and driver registration is done. Also all foreigners would have to get their passport verified over here before progressing further, just like in Khokhsar. I do go and inquire, cycle and myself are exempt from registration.



From Darcha and beyond, vegetation is sparse and soon nothing will remain. The facing hill with the road cut into - it is all strenuous gradient and incline now till to Baralacha la top.



Tankers coming down from Patseo to Darcha side




A more permanent bridge is being constructed at Darcha. Yotche and Zanskar Nallahs meet Bhaga river here from different directions. The proper Darcha village can also be seen out here, there a little up on the mountain slope.









As dusk falls, I return back to Rewa dhaba, it is bitter cold in end Sept. The dhaba is run by an wonderful duo of mother and daughter. Her grand-daughter is also seen here.



Darcha is the last place where there is will be electricity [not generator] and BSNL mobile phone connectivity. Charging batteries and transferring images from memory cards.



Rewa dhaba kitchen is managed by a wonderful lad called Lakhan from Lakhimpur Kheri. A tasty dinner of hot rotis and egg curry. Electricity went off for 1 hour around and dinner was by emergency light.




By 9, I am off to my bed - Rs 200 rent for the night. The dhaba was however just coming to life as truck drivers and Leh-Manali passengers coming via cannonball run throng for late dinner.



An early rise tomorrow is planned. Strain and hurt will soon come knocking again but at much fiercer level form now on - steep gradients, howling cold winds, absolutely desolate late Sept road, the 16000+ft Baralacha la and beyond. Though much much better from what I was from the beginning days, still, thoughts and concerns do come up... I soon fall asleep.


contd..

[Dodge_Viper]

This is getting more and more interesting day by day. For me, it's the best Ladakh travelogue till now . Desperately waiting for Stock summit.

adc da, request you to take a leave and finish off the entire tour in one day .

[jacs]

Again nice sets of pictures. Travelling in a bicycle gives you a lot of opportunity to get closer to skin and I certainly admit the practical difficulties too.

[Mik]

Twice i have been on this route on a motorcycle and twice i have clicked darcha from a vantage point. An unnecessary check post for me as i move ahead.
You, Sir, have for shown me the Sissu- Darcha section in new light. Truly, cycling lets you see things which we motorized specimen miss so easily.
Waiting for your ascent up the baralach la.

[adc]

Thanks again for all the good words and appreciation; the best also for myself being to re-live the trip as the varied experiences and situations are remembered again.

Originally Posted by Dodge_Viper

but what exactly is anaerobic and aerobic swimming?

Just a brief summary, all from the internet.

There are two main types of exercise – aerobic and anaerobic. Aerobic training is when the body is functioning with sufficient oxygen to fuel the muscles.Your breathing may be heavy but you are essentially breathing in more oxygen than your body requires. Anaerobic training is when you start working a bit harder, such that you start breathing in less oxygen than your body needs. When you are training anaerobically, the body starts producing lactic acid which manifests itself as pain all over the body. Sooner, rather than later, you will have to stop. The point where you move from training aerobically to anaerobically is called the lactic threshold. It is the level of intensity your body operates at before it goes into ‘oxygen debt’. Different sports put differing levels of emphasis on aerobic and anaerobic fitness. Soccer players for instance, need greater levels of anaerobic fitness than marathon runners.

Swimming is usually thought of as an aerobic sport, in which the swimmer's heart must efficiently increase its output to supply sufficient oxygen for muscles to utilize aerobic respiration. However, as your muscles work more and more, they must also utilize anaerobic respiration to produce energy, causing lactic acid to build up in your muscles. This is especially true if you try to have short bursts of speed.

In an aerobic swimming workout, you are typically swimming at a moderate intensity for a long period of time. As such after the warmup consisting of laps at a moderate pace [i.e. aerobic swimming], swim at maximum effort as possible. Acute energy demands force you to forgo aerobic metabolism, and rely instead on fast, but less-efficient anaerobic metabolism. Anaerobic metabolism produces lactic acid as a byproduct, the substance responsible for the burning sensation that can accompany intense physical exertion.

Anaerobic exercise helps build lean muscle mass. Calories are burned more efficiently in bodies that have more muscle. Anaerobic exercise is especially helpful for weight management in that it helps to burn more calories even in a body at rest. Anaerobic exercise can also help build endurance and fitness levels. Anaerobic training helps you endure the unpleasant effects of lactic acid. You can tell if you are working anaerobically because you'll develop high levels of lactic acid (LA). When you get high levels of LA your muscles have difficulty relaxing and you feel tight. You'll be breathing very hard, too.

Because of the intense nature of anaerobic swimming, over-training can lead to injury or exhaustion. As such there are rest periods between two anaerobic sets of exercises. For example when others are completing 4 laps of swimming, I was doing 2 laps in that given time as it was sprint swimming, i.e, anaerobic.


Source: Various internet webpages

Originally Posted by Dodge_Viper

adc da, request you to take a leave and finish off the entire tour in one day.

I myself want to get over with this long pending travelogue. But in fact, it just may go more slow now, from here on all the images are still haphazardly lying in some drive or other. Have to collate them date wise and see, plus I suspect lost some images of part of the trip due to the confusion of on which cards what is being written and what was being formatted during the travel, saddened still by this - it takes quite an effort to click while bicycling - the stop and go, and the amount of time that is lost.

If you do want to know something particular of Stok Kangri, let me know. The stok kangri part will come at the last of this travel story, so it is quite some days away.

Originally Posted by Rudra Sen

It's only natural after a long time having only dal/rice, egg and Maggi. That too with one and a half green chilli.

Green chilies are a luxury thing after Rohtang along with that chicken curry; also got aachar with that, devoured some 7 or 8 rotis. My visit to them in the afternoon in search of good food paid dividends. The hotel was almost closed, only open [if i recall correctly] saying that to keep supplies for the Himalayan car rally guys following later on.

The Kokhsar to Darcha Himachal part has improved significantly, even from what we had in October 2010.

Originally Posted by rkbharat

I was reading your Warwan log, will be hitting same sections in June.

Ah! Warwan - You do bring back great memories about that trip! Do have a great journey, the real vistas of Kashmir lies there. Also do visit Doodthpathri - so near to Srinagar and with so good setup now [ it ws just being made during our 2011 trip], - it is a must, must visit.

BTW, had gone through your Kinnaur travelogue pics - and if I have to take out 1 pic there that stands out for me among, lets say, the plethora of fantastic images, it would be the Twiglight or Magic one. Still left to go through the text, but nothing like a good family outing.

[Jeash.vk]

I am awestruck, dumbfounded .... (fill up with whatever adjectives you can think off) at your amazing achievement. To travel through one of the most difficult (if not the most) terrain in India, that too without the help of a motorized vehicle - the courage and determination that you had to go through this makes me admire you.

What I found even more endearing is the fact that you did not try to show the macho side by saying it was a cake walk - in the first days write up you articulated quite clearly that it was a mental struggle (to go along with the physical one) to keep from thinking about returning. It would have been a easy decision to take, but not the courageous one. And BOY did you take a decision there.

I have no more words, but just plain, unadulterated admiration towards you. Keep the log coming, I am glued!

[sen2009]

This is an awesome story - Sealed and labeled in the name of ADC! Only if he would write a little more per day. We the lesser mortals who can only read... these great adventure people never think of us.

Carry on dude.. you are quite the machine (Translate to Bengali to get what I am saying).
:-)

[Dodge_Viper]

Originally Posted by adc

If you do want to know something particular of Stok Kangri, let me know. The stok kangri part will come at the last of this travel story, so it is quite some days away.

Thanks for all that info. Let the flow continue the way it's going, it's more enjoyable . Will pour in my questions at the end .