[ringoism]

Originally Posted by prabuddhadg

Hi Eric,

Is that your bicycle in the photo? (Sorry, just read further)

Compared to the handlebars and the general setup, the saddle looks very low. With a pedal in the lowest position, does your knee straighten? If you place your heel on the pedal, your knee should be fully extended.

Thanks and never mind the photo confusion - yes, "my" bike but not to ride personally...

FYI I do have my knee only slightly bent at lowest actual pedal/foot position... "technically right" as I ride all my other cycles. The day I got hurt the height was a bit more generous, even, as mentioned elsewhere, which was the odd part.

As for me and 20" wheeled kids' cycles like that pictured: my son had a similar Avon Rowdy, and when I took that for a test spin my boys (and wife) laughed their heads off, 'cause at 6'2", I looked something like a circus bear act!

...a very short ride in which nothing could have been injured but pride - albeit not possible as I was having too much fun being silly...

No point being overly "respectable" at this stage...

-Eric

[narayanang76]

Originally Posted by shipnil

Clipless users, please advise any additional tips.

One thing you can try is - always get into an easier gear before unclipping and stopping. Also be in an easier gear while starting the ride and clipping in. Easier gear means - Big rings on the rear cassette and small ring on the front chain rings.
Also always lean towards the left side after unclipping left - when you are almost coming to a halt.

Yes these wont be possible in case of unplanned/abrupt stops, but the planned ones it would help.

[dragntailonfire]

Originally Posted by shipnil

Clipless users, please advise any additional tips.

I am a very recent clipless pedal adopter. I got the base SPD-SL pedals and the Shimano RC1 shoes to go with it.







Here is what I did, before gaining enough confidence to venture out on to the roads:

1. For 2 or 3 days, after setting up the pedals and cleats, I practiced just clipping in and clipping out, indoors, holding on to the wall for balance. I lost count of how many times, but soon, I got used to the action of clipping in and out.
2. Next step was practicing pedaling and then clipping out and stopping. I made my brother run next to me, and I rode close to a wall, just so that I don't taste the mud unnecessarily. The first time, I did forget to clip out my left, after successfully clipping out the right, and started falling to the left (I suddenly remembered the article Doc posted a while back, on falling to the left). The fall was halted by my brother.
3. Several tries later, I got enough confidence to post my brother at one end, and then I pedaled till that point, clipped out successfully and came to a halt, all without any drama. Did this few more times, by which my confidence grew to the point that, I was ready to venture out on to public roads.
4. Started by 6AM for the first ride on public roads, had a friend along also, as a precaution. It went very well.

I have covered almost 200kms on clipless pedals, and I feel very comfortable using them now. Hope the good experience continues.

Few tips that helped me immensely:

1. I always clip out when the pedal is at the bottom end and my knees are most extended. It takes lot more effort when the knees are bend.
2. Initially, I concentrated on my left foot more, and I always planned to clip out the left foot first, and after stopping, the right.
3. I clip out a few meters before coming to a planned stop. I was lucky in the initial few ride, to never run into a situation where I had to do an emergency stop. This is not a problem now, I was able to clip out on an emergency, when an auto made an abrupt turn just in front of me.

[ebonho]

I love these blue RC1's @dragontailonfire. A friend wears the exact same pair. Very very economical Shimanos. Right now Decathlon too is selling their road shoes (limited sizes) on a hefty cut at 3500 bucks.

P.S. Serious cyclists always wear socks till the bottom of their calves. The no sock or short sock look screams triathlete to us snobs.

[shipnil]

Originally Posted by dragntailonfire

[*]I always clip out when the pedal is at the bottom end and my knees are most extended. It takes lot more effort when the knees are bend.

Thanks Dragontailonfire! Yes, I too felt the same and was wondering what is the ideal position on the crank to unclip. Top of the pedal stroke was the most difficult. I realized the MTB cleats that I am using also allow me to unclip if I try to pull the heel in, instead of out. While at the top of pedal stroke, this heel in was easier than heel out.

I think the natural position for us to keep the right pedal at the bottom of stroke and touch the left foot down while coming to a stop. So I think it would be preferable to be able to unclip the left foot while it is at the top of pedal stroke and right pedal at the bottom.

[prabuddhadg]

Originally Posted by ringoism

Thanks and never mind the photo confusion - yes, "my" bike but not to ride personally...

FYI I do have my knee only slightly bent at lowest actual pedal/foot position... "technically right" as I ride all my other cycles. The day I got hurt the height was a bit more generous, even, as mentioned elsewhere, which was the odd part.

As for me and 20" wheeled kids' cycles like that pictured: my son had a similar Avon Rowdy, and when I took that for a test spin my boys (and wife) laughed their heads off, 'cause at 6'2", I looked something like a circus bear act!

...a very short ride in which nothing could have been injured but pride - albeit not possible as I was having too much fun being silly...

No point being overly "respectable" at this stage...

-Eric

Hey thanks for clearing that up. For a 6'2" that could never work. By the way, someone had once told me he had bought a too small MTB because it fitted in his car dicky.

About bike fit, I can tell you this. The first lockdown etc. had forced me to spend a substantial amount of my cycling time indoors. That was when I really started spending more and more time on my rollers. I had bought them maybe in 2010 but had not ridden even a thousand kilometres on them. The more I rode on the rollers, the more I got hooked. One major advantage of rollers is that you need to balance. In fact balancing on rollers is way more difficult than on the road. You are just not allowed to fidget or make any abrupt movements. What this then forced me to do is to focus acutely on how I sat on the bike and not just left right balance but also front and rear weight distribution.

I rode three different bicycles on the rollers and kept adjusting seat height, saddle fore and aft setting and handlebar height. On all the three bikes, I gravitated towards very similar measurements.

One notable change from the earlier measurements was that I now have my saddle further back. What this does is, it transfers a little more weight to the saddle taking some weight off the hands. (I think Bernard Hinault had said that you should have your hands light enough to be able to play the piano while pedalling )

After I got used to this riding posture, I found that I could balance better on the bike and I could now ride no handed on the rollers easily. Of course, these changes are not starkly noticeable to others, but I definitely feel more stable on the bike.

I use cleats and now I find that I can pedal more fluidly, because my upper body is more stable and does not move much.

After all this time riding indoors and locally, maximum 30 km for months, this weekend I did a 90 km ride on my heaviest bike, and I felt no distress in my knees or my back. So this works on the road as well.

Just a suggestion. Tiny bits of fine tuning can go a long way.

[ballfry]

Originally Posted by Maddy3008

Please give me some recommendations on which bicyles will suit best for my case. I have a budget of 25k in mind but can stretch a bit if required. I have looked at hybrids and road bikes in decathlon but totally confused on which one to go for.

Decathalon has the RC-100 available for 26k, which seems to be great VFM.

The same model is also available in a flat-bar, so you have that as an option.

Go to the store and spend time getting sized for the bike, which is the most important thing you could do. Small geometry changes can be made after purchase, but they would be minor changes.

[ebonho]

Originally Posted by FrozeninTime

I purchased this hercules FX100 cycle last October.
Today I saw rust near pedal and rear tyre hub.
Anything to be worried about?

Totally expected. You've had the bike for a year yet your tyres are so brand new the excess rubber mould strip are still not worn away. And look at how dirty the bike is buddy. When was the last time it met a wet cloth? If you neglect a bike, it will deteriorate. Nothing to do with the bike.

My ACT was in worse shape than this when I saw her first. Willing to bet your bike has been parked somewhere outside, exposed to the elements (rain). Either an open terrace, balcony, garden or parking lot.

This is just surface rust. But it's the beginning. Sorry for sounding a bit harsh but the photos are very clear as to what the situation is. This bike has been standing and you've rekindled your interest to ride again and discovered the rust. On a bike that's never been cleaned, let alone lubed (look at the brand new chain).

Cheers, Doc

[itisravi]

This awesome bike mechanic 'slaps' everything into place.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3qdjVrhJD2I

[graaja]

Question to Zwift users:

Due to some recent RBI guideline, my credit card (Citibank) is not allowing recurring transactions anymore. I was under the impression that we need to cancel existing ones and create a new recurring transaction. Even that is not working. Today I got a text message from Citibank that they are not allowing this recurring transaction due to RBI guidelines.

Any other Zwift users facing the same problem? Or is there any workaround?

[vb-saan]

When I visited the Trek shop couple of days back I complained about their choice of pedals on my bike (too slippery), and they promptly helped with a new set of pedals FOC. Nothing fancy, but still feels much better than the earlier ones.

[amol4184]

I am thinking of buying and installing a proper light (even though 100% of my rides have been in day light) - I plan to use it as a blinker all the time, sorta DRLs for cycle.

I liked these two - Niterider Swift 500 and 300. There is also a model called Mako.

https://bumsonthesaddle.com/collecti...mako-250-light

https://bumsonthesaddle.com/collecti...le-front-light

https://bumsonthesaddle.com/collecti...00-front-light

Rs. 2k was my budget, and Swift 500 fits in it.

Thoughts? Also better places (online) to buy these lights?

[ebonho]

Originally Posted by amol4184

I liked these two - Niterider Swift 500 and 300. There is also a model called Mako.

Lots of 600+ (2 nights and above) guys buy the Mako as an emergency battery powered light so that in a pinch, with multiple nights on the road, and no confirmed hotel room sleepover where you can charge a rechargeable light for a few hours, they are not without a light (you can buy AA cells anywhere, any panwalla would have them). For that purpose, a good spare battery powered light, the Mako makes eminent sense. But as a primary light it's beam is not too good. I've borrowed a friend's Mako for a couple of night rides (including a Khopoli n back run).

The beam is a concentrated narrow round point type beam and not spread out. It's great to use as a combination beam with a floodlight type beam for near and surrounding illumination, with the Mako beam doing the long distance throw when riding at speed. But just on its own I found myself very uncomfortable on the road and virtually blind beyond that central round spot, with no halo surrounding outside. Build quality is solid and chunky though. Has flown off handles and crashed at speed with just a few nicks and scratches compared to Chinese stuff that shatters into a million pieces.

Personally, I repeat, never buy a light online without physically actually having seen the beam on the road at night for yourself. You will be disappointed 99 out of 100 times if you do.

Cheers, Doc

[amol4184]

Originally Posted by ebonho

Personally, I repeat, never buy a light online without physically actually having seen the beam on the road at night for yourself. You will be disappointed 99 out of 100 times if you do.

Cheers, Doc

Thanks for the insight. The Mako was just there in my budget so I was looking at it. I would like a rechargeable than replaceable battery light. Finding any of these lights in this area is next to impossible. I'll have to come to Pune to check them out. Let's see.
Other than that I was hoping the lights can be charged while turned on but that is not the case. You can either charge or turn it on.

[Kpzonwheels]

Hi
Looking to upgrade the crankset of my 7 speed hybrid bike. Existing one is 44*170mm cotter less crankset. Can anyone suggest the options to look for