[ebonho]

Originally Posted by shipnil

With moving between the bigger and smaller cranks, better gear ratio is possible but it takes slightly longer, shift is not smoother on claris front and you have to keep remembering to do it. It is not optimal as once the small incline is over, I get comfortable at 18 or even 16. So constantly switching both front and back may not be very efficient

You make a good point about shifting back and forth. That is not what I was suggesting at all. Regardless of how many gear combinations you have, eventually when you map them out you will see that between the big and small ring combinations, there are only really 11-12 unique combinations, 2-3 on either side (high and low) with an overlap in the middle.

What that essentially means that while it is possible to continue in one ring right through all the rear cogs, from smallest to largest, with cross chaining and front derailleur trimming, eventually you will switch from one ring to the next. That point in the big ring would usually be max in 2-3 before you get chain rub and have to trim the front derailleur. Which is 21 at the back.

Or you could choose to shift one gear earlier at 18 itself and try and get past that neither here nor there jump. Hope it is clear now?

In real life though, like you, when I can see that the slight incline section is not too long, and will be followed by a flat, I simply grind it out in 18 without shifting down, because 21 is too low.

If, however, more such rolling terrain and inclines are expected to continue, there would be a good case then to shift down to the smaller ring (to 14) coz if the incline eases up you still have an option in the small ring to get two additional equivalent big ring ratios by shifting up to 12 and even 11. Hope that makes sense!

I think I was not clear in my previous post. The motivation for new cassette is not 11 teeth cog but rather the optimal intermediate gear ratios in that cassette, 17-19-21. Like you too, I believe 11 is not a useful gear for us recreational cyclists. Why 11, even 12, I feel is not quite useful. I end up using it only while I am coming down the hill or flyovers.

The question was more like, would the current hub be able to accommodate a cassette with smallest cog being 11. Long back read somewhere that 11 has different internal diameter.

I have a claris groupset with Sunrace cassette. 12-14-16-18-21-24-28-32
The one I have my eyes set on. Shimano CS-HG50-8 BF group. 11-13-15-17-19-21-24-28

I know I'd be dropping 32, but then I have never used it. 28 with small crank is good enough.

I'm not sure but I'm guessing you should be able to shift to 11. Lots of bikes (including mine) come stock with 12 with owners replacing it with 11-something cassettes down the line. About ID issues, I had read that only for freewheels, which have a smallest cog of 14 and cannot go smaller because of the bearing body. About freehubs I guess 8 and 9 speed are interchangeable but not beyond, coz 10 onwards the freehub is different.

I too will probably be on the lookout for a 12-28 8 speed cassette as my next replacement if I find (optimistically) that the 32 is simply dead weight I'm lugging around for hundreds and thousands of kilometers. Not to mention the big jumps resulting from that. And the 11 too of course.

Cheers, Doc

[Sebring]

Thanks for the pic. I picked up something with the largest display (as I cant see very well). Just needed to know how fast I was going. This was around $10 on clearance.

Originally Posted by ebonho

I have been using a wired Sunding (563a) on my hybrid too for the past 3 years.

[Sudarshan_SMD]

Originally Posted by shipnil

The question was more like, would the current hub be able to accommodate a cassette with smallest cog being 11. Long back read somewhere that 11 has different internal diameter.

yes, your current hub should be able to fit cassette with 11 tooth cog. However, it won't be able to take 10T cog.

It's the spacing for the hub that is different between 10 speed and 11-speed hubs, and not the diameter. You might have confused 11T with 11 speed.
The spacing of cogs between 10s and 11s cassette is the same. When the 11s was launched, it was launched with a new hub that had more spacing to accommodate the wider cassette. This means 10s hubs would not take 11s cassette. However, if you want to put 10s(or lower) cassette on 11s hub, you can do so by adding a spacer.

When 12s drivetrain was launched(SRAM and Campy), the space between cogs was reduced as compared to a 11s cassette. So, a 12s cassette can be installed on older hubs(11s). As the spacing between cogs was reduced, the chain width was also reduced.

Rotor launched the 13 speed groupset. They did so by using a new hub. New hub design by rotor can fit 13s cassette and a 10T smallest cog.

[bugatti]

Originally Posted by ebonho

@bugatti just diesel cleaned the derailleur and checked for the codes you mentioned.
Cheers, Doc

I'm taking a chance but that looks GS (medium cage) rather than long cage. The Claris GS can just about accommodate the 32 ring.

Originally Posted by shipnil

Doc, I am no expert but following is what I had read one of the cycling forum, and I largely agree with it.

Bigger gears. 28/24 = 1.16. 32/28 = 1.14

That was pretty much why I'm with the 12-25 for now.

Originally Posted by shipnil

While we are on the topic of Cassettes, my current one has intermediate gears as ..16-18-21-24.. The problem I face more often is 18 is bit stiff on slow inclines and 21 is I start spinning a bit more than I'd like to. So I was looking at either 16-18-20-22 or 17-18-19-21. First one, I have to compromize on biggest gear. Second one, I think Shimano has one HG-50 with that combination in an 11-28 cassette. My question, would my wheel hub be compatible with 11 smallest cog? My current one is a Sunrace with 12 as the smallest.

It is compatible. If you have a 8 sp cassette, you're already using spacers, as most hubs are (these days) meant for 11 sp. Shifting to another 8 sp cassette should pose no problem.

Originally Posted by shipnil

With..............
I think I was not clear in my previous post. The motivation for new cassette is not 11 teeth cog but rather the optimal intermediate gear ratios in that cassette, 17-19-21. Like you too, I believe 11 is not a useful gear for us recreational cyclists. Why 11, even 12, I feel is not quite useful. I end up using it only while I am coming down the hill or flyovers.

The question was more like, would the current hub be able to accommodate a cassette with smallest cog being 11. Long back read somewhere that 11 has different internal diameter.

I know I'd be dropping 32, but then I have never used it. 28 with small crank is good enough.

During my research on the 11-28 9 sp, I had read that some folks who had the skills (or knew those who had the skills) took bits and pieces of 2 cassettes and made it into 1. Simplest example- 12-25 9 sp + 11-30 9 sp = 12-30 9 sp. Both cassettes are CS-HG50. If you can find a 11-28 HG50 9 sp (difficult, as I mentioned in an earlier post), you can do you 12-28 too.

It is best to combine Shimano-Shimano rather than Shimano-SRAM (theoretically it does work but folks have faced practical issues).

As for the bottom 3 rings (12, 13, 14), they are free anyways. So you could try a HG50 13-25 (available) and match it with a 11-28 and 12-25 and get a 12-28 with really appropriate mid-section.

disclaimer- I'm not responsible for any damaged cassettes that might result from this experimentation .

[graaja]

It is really scary when speeding vehicles pass inches away while cycling on the roads. As I have very severe hearing loss, I don't usually hear the vehicles till they are too close. So, I rely on optical methods. I tried the Garmin Radar (still use it) that detects approaching vehicles and displays them as moving dots on my Garmin head unit. But in this method, there is no way to know if the dot is a TVS50 or a bus. I had fixed a rear view mirror to the handle bar which helped. But once I fixed the aero bars, the hand rests of the aero bars totally blocked the rearview mirror. So, I had to turn over my shoulders quite often to keep on checking the traffic.

About a year back, I had come across some video reviews about a riding glass called TriEye with integrated rear view mirror.

https://trieye.com/

But at that time, it was still the review of the prototypes. A couple of months back, I revisited this web site and found that the glasses were on sale. I placed an order and got them within a week's time. But due to monsoon and other reasons, I could not do outdoor rides for the past couple of months. Today I went for an outdoor ride and got to try these glasses.

Though at 99 Euros, these glasses are expensive, for me, they are worth their weight in gold. Now all I have to do is slightly tilt my head and look at the mirror on the right glass and I get a crystal clear view of the road behind. While on the drop bar, the shoulder blocks most of the view and I have to slightly lift my head and tilt to get the full view of the roads. I was able to adjust to the glass in one ride.

A few pictures of the glass.

The glass comes packed well in a box.


Inside the box, the glasses are placed neatly inside foam packing.


There are three different shades of glass - clear, smoke tint and smoke tint with red revo. Have to choose based on the weather.


The front view of the glass.


Each glass comes with an integrated rear view mirror. At the time of ordering, you can choose between right (for UK and India), left (for countries like US) and both. I chose the right side mirror option.


The view of the road behind. The view looks narrow in this picture due to the angle and distance of the camera. When the glass is close to the eyes, the field of view expands a lot and gives a very wide view of the road behind. Difficult to capture this view in a picture or explain this in words.


Overall, I feel this is one of the best accessories one can get for cycling in India, as it adds an extra layer of safety.

[Sebring]

Looks like another number just got added. Caad13. Twice as smooth, alloy road racer.

Originally Posted by ebonho

"over-achieving little brother of the CAAD12"

[ebonho]

Originally Posted by Sebring

Looks like another number just got added. Caad13. Twice as smooth, alloy road racer.

There is a raging controversy/debate/rant worldwide between the purists who hate the look/shape and say its not a CAAD anymore than just in name coz it doesnt look like one and now looks like any other generic cookie-cutter drop seat-stay aero frame bike and the other side who say the ends (compliance, aero gains) justify the means (straying away from the legendary classical CAAD design philosophy).

I must say I belong to the first group. They should have kept this for the Super Six Evo and left the CAAD frame alone.

Personally, to an admittedly lesser extent I had the same feeling at the first look of the Optimo when it was released and I saw the neon green one in the flesh at Track n Trail ...

Cheers, Doc

[shipnil]

Originally Posted by ebonho

I too will probably be on the lookout for a 12-28 8 speed cassette as my next replacement

I have done extensive internet search, but in 8 speed, there is no cassette available in 12-28 for Shimano drivetrain

Originally Posted by bugatti

disclaimer- I'm not responsible for any damaged cassettes that might result from this experimentation .

. Thanks for the crisp explanation. This clarifies my doubts on 11t sprocket and hub compatibility.

But I don't intend to break cassette combination and create my own. I am looking for off the shelf solution, with max 28t sprocket.

[ebonho]

Originally Posted by shipnil

I have done extensive internet search, but in 8 speed, there is no cassette available in 12-28 for Shimano drivetrain

You are right. None in SRAM or Sunrace either. Shimano used to have an XTR/XT 12-28 that they have now discontinued.

But there are 9 speed 11-28 cassettes. Like the Shimano CS-HG400.

11-12-13-14-16-18-21-24-28.

Is it possible to remove the 11, use the lock-ring on the 12 as the terminal cog, and then use a spacer (if needed ... coz 9 speed cogs being slightly thinner probably take as much width overall as a 8 speed cassette)?

Cheers, Doc

[Sebring]

This forum is such a treasure trove. I had booked fixmycycle.in, for work on my bike and sent several reminders - that I expect the work to be top-notch. And that I was a stickler for time etc. But still, they went about their wanton careless way and did not stick to time, citing traffic (what else!) Called it off over phone and I'm really glad it didn't go through, (and that they shot their own foot)!

Originally Posted by bugatti

so had fixmycycle come over for the 3 bikes.
This repair too didn't fix my Hercules. The guy who came over mentioned that the bottom set was probably the wrong size

[srikanthns]

Is the Btwin Rockrider in production now? Looking for a cgeared version from this stable around 10-12k. Can anyone enlighten me?

[vjoy3]

Yes they are in production. As it's said, buy bicycles one level higher than the budget
This seems apt https://www.decathlon.in/p/8513783_r...ike-black.html

[shipnil]

Originally Posted by ebonho

But there are 9 speed 11-28 cassettes. Like the Shimano CS-HG400.

11-12-13-14-16-18-21-24-28.

Is it possible to remove the 11, use the lock-ring on the 12 as the terminal cog, and then use a spacer (if needed ... coz 9 speed cogs being slightly thinner probably take as much width overall as a 8 speed cassette)?

Cheers, Doc

How will this cassette solve the big jump problem from 18-21? I think after removing 32, what you are adding is 13t cog? This will only make sense if you often use 14 but find 12 a bit stiffer.

I have no idea if one can use lock ring on the next cog.

[Hunter3077]

After all the discussions, suggestions, recommendations and pondering over available options, went ahead and purchased the Cannondale Synapse Alloy 105 (2019).
I considered Trek Domane AL 5, Giant Contend 1, Cannondale CAAD Optimo 105, BMC Teammachine ALR01 (105) before homing on to the Synapse. The decision to go for the 105 groupset was based primarily on the advise of many experienced cyclists here and in my circle who advocated for it as opposed to the Sora or Tiagra.
My need was for an Endurance geometry bike and the Synapse ticks all the boxes in that account. It is light weight and sturdy. The 2019 model also comes with the improved Shimano 105 R7000 groupset and Thru axle. It weighs around 9 kg and responds well with whatever I observed in a short ride of 25 km.
A word about the dealer. I spoke to many dealers and outlets in connection with the purchase. Track N Trail Hissar proved to be the best among them. Great guy, Prashant, very humble and patient in answering all queries at all. Gave me a very very good deal. The bike cost me 95k in total plus the insurance. Whole lot of stuff as complementary too was provided by him. All in all 10/10 to the buying experience and the Dealer.
Will share my experience with the machine in the days to come. Posting some photos for the consumption of the team here.

Once again thanks to everyone for their advise and suggestions.
Cheers

[silverado]

Originally Posted by zaheer5776

Is it too early for me to think for an upgrade?

Which Hybrid I should be looking for in the of Rs 15k to 25K. I am not interested in having suspensions. So I can get good deal I suppose!

Your biggest issue with current bike is its frame. Hence you should definitely upgrade. Sell this bike on OLX or gift it to someone you know.

Try to extend your budget, and you will be able to buy bikes from Marin, Scott etc.
Buy a good bike now, so that you don't feel like upgrading soon.