[Red Liner]

Originally Posted by ebonho

This is good!

Do they sell tyres?!!??? I'm only getting Ralson for my road bike. Desperate times man. Even Decathlon does not have tyres.

You have to call individual Decathlon stores and check in different cities. Which tyre do you need? I can ask across Bangalore for you via a friend in the cycling dept.

Debit card also works. Set up a paypal account and pay through that to ebay. Its very easy and simple. If confused, ask a friend to show you how.

[ebonho]

Originally Posted by Red Liner

You have to call individual Decathlon stores and check in different cities. Which tyre do you need? I can ask across Bangalore for you via a friend in the cycling dept.

Debit card also works. Set up a paypal account and pay through that to ebay. Its very easy and simple. If confused, ask a friend to show you how.

I need a pair of 700-25c road bike tyres please. Preferably the new Puncture Protect ones.

23c will also work, though I'd prefer 25c if the choice is there.

Thanks Red.

[Red Liner]

Originally Posted by ebonho

I need a pair of 700-25c road bike tyres please. Preferably the new Puncture Protect ones.

23c will also work, though I'd prefer 25c if the choice is there.

Thanks Red.

Will ask and revert we are all here to help each other in this community

[RishikeshK]

Originally Posted by W.A.G.7

Today morning while descending Katraj ghat, my front brake cable slipped from the caliper.

That's scary!!! I hope the recent servicing isn't the cause of this and the problematic area does get fixed satisfactorily. 🤞

[ach1lles]

Originally Posted by alphadog

Do you have any idea of what the rim width is?

Hey, not sure but I can let you know when I have the bike next to me.

Originally Posted by mohanphadnis

That is weird, may be it is your body construction, with shorter legs and bigger upper body.

Hey, that is exactly what it is. Legs are shorter, and this gentleman (in the video at about 11:40), mentions this, and apparently it’s not completely idiotic to go two sizes down from the manufacturer’s recommendation chart, if that is what your physiology dictates.

The variations aren’t more than a few cms each way so it’s not that big a leap. The M and L felt quite similar to me in size when I tried them one after the other.

I think S will fit me perfect but it’s not available with no timeline for availability either.

https://youtu.be/W1oCSmodpu8?t=698

[ninjatalli]

Originally Posted by ebonho

I need a pair of 700-25c road bike tyres please. Preferably the new Puncture Protect ones.

23c will also work, though I'd prefer 25c if the choice is there.

Thanks Red.

Extremely similar requirements @doc although I have a tried and tested option in Schwalbe and would recommend the Schwalbe Durano family (much lighter than their heavy Marathon options).

Would you be interested in grouping up and ordering from wiggle.com? There's a minimum ~$140 order requirement to get shipping free. Price per tire is around $40-$50. Additional costs from customs is up to luck!

[ebonho]

Originally Posted by ninjatalli

Extremely similar requirements @doc although I have a tried and tested option in Schwalbe and would recommend the Schwalbe Durano family (much lighter than their heavy Marathon options).

Would you be interested in grouping up and ordering from wiggle.com? There's a minimum ~$140 order requirement to get shipping free. Price per tire is around $40-$50. Additional costs from customs is up to luck!

I currently have 3 sets of tyres for the roadie, all 23c's. The Gatorskins which i ride on. The GRLs which I use on the trainer. And a pair of Kendas from my friend's Giant SCR 0 which he hardly used, shifting to the Marathons after he got a couple of punctures. He swears by the Marathons but just their look (tread) puts me off man. I'd rather fit a side stand on my CAAD than put Marathons on her.

The idea of pooling in for a group purchase is a good one and being done here as well. Always best to do it in the same city, for the last mile logistics. However, I'm currently not looking for an online purchase because I still am clinging to the hope that travel opens up and I come back from Europe or the US with a small cabin bag full of GP5000s.

The gumption of guys is unbelievable man. There are some shops charging 1100 bucks for those Ralsons. At one time I used to pick up tyres and tubes directly from GRL for a few hundred bucks. The Indian tyres and tubes are that cheap. Most other shops are charging 650-800 bucks per tyre. For a tyre which the company sells at 200-250 bucks tops.

I might even try out the Ralsons. The tyre would be a bit more expensive than the inner tube! Worst case, if I have to catch an auto home, I will take them off and see if they run on the trainer. They do have a smooth central tread ...

Cheers, Doc

[superguy282]

Originally Posted by ebonho

The gumption of guys is unbelievable man. There are some shops charging 1100 bucks for those Ralsons. At one time I used to pick up tyres and tubes directly from GRL for a few hundred bucks. The Indian tyres and tubes are that cheap. Most other shops are charging 650-800 bucks per tyre. For a tyre which the company sells at 200-250 bucks tops. I might even try out the Ralsons. The tyre would be a bit more expensive than the inner tube! Worst case, if I have to catch an auto home, I will take them off and see if they run on the trainer. They do have a smooth central tread

1100 for Ralsons!!! That's a level above daylight robbery. I got 700*38c Ralsons for ₹300 each from Phadke Houd chowk, so far, they're holding up pretty well, althought the finish was horrible with small bits of uncut rubber at some parts around the inner diameter. Nothing a little bit of plucking out couldn't solve though. I also got 32-38c tubes from an Indian company whose name escapes me, for ₹200 each making my tyre expenses at ₹1k for the full set. They're satisfactory for my kind of use (casual) and I would recommend them for temporary use.(don't quote me on it though)

Doc, you also mentioned about pedals a few posts back, I'm currently looking out for new ones and need metal ones as well. Could you provide more details please?

[Jaguar]

Originally Posted by ebonho

Bike for bike, feature for feature, spec for spec the Rockrider 540 is two levels above the Bolinas Ridge, which is an entry level MTB with mechanical discs and a basic 21 speed Tourney drivetrain.

Both should be good bikes. Buy the one that feels better to ride, with a blank mind bereft of data bias.

The Rockrider 540 went out of stock, but it was size M and I am not complaining. Went to the shop which had Marin in stock and turns out he has Bobcat Trail 3 as well. So that is the best option I have now. But then again, the only sizes available are 29" M and XL, no L.

Originally Posted by ach1lles

Hey, that is exactly what it is. Legs are shorter, and this gentleman (in the video at about 11:40), mentions this, and apparently it’s not completely idiotic to go two sizes down from the manufacturer’s recommendation chart if that is what your physiology dictates.

I am on the opposite spectrum. My legs are longer. I am a bit over 5'10" with an inseam of 90cm, without shoes, as measured by the shop guy. As per him, although as per the size chart of the bike, I need an L, my inseam warrants an XL to avoid hip and leg pain in the long run. If I have reach issues, I can apparently go for handlebar risers, etc. I was not sure whether to believe him or not since XL was all he had but now the video suggests the same.

I could ride the XL but the toes just about touch the ground when was sitting with the seat height approx the same level as my hip bone. The salesman says I will be increasing the seat height even further once I become more comfortable with the bike and go for proper fitting. Unfortunately, they don't offer fitting services anymore.

Experts, please suggest whether I should go ahead with the XL. He has agreed to hold the bike (last piece) for a day for me. I visited another shop as well, and even they didn't have any L-sized MTBs with similar geometry in stock.

[Arnav612]

Hi guys!

I ride a Hero Sprint. I had the rear derailleur changed last week because of wrong shifting causing it to twist and break. However, now the gears don't downshift properly. For example - to go from 6th to 5th, I have to take the shifter from 6th to 4th, and so on.

Any leads or suggestions would be grateful for , thank you

[Red Liner]

Originally Posted by Jaguar

Experts, please suggest whether I should go ahead with the XL. He has agreed to hold the bike (last piece) for a day for me. I visited another shop as well, and even they didn't have any L-sized MTBs with similar geometry in stock.

I think you should pull along someone like ninjatalli to come with you to do a bit of bike shopping. I don’t think you know any other cycling experts in your friend circle.

Maybe treat him for lunch

I am a noob myself, else I would tried to help you out. You need someone to physically see you on the bike - a pre bike fit almost.

[graaja]

Originally Posted by Jaguar

I could ride the XL but the toes just about touch the ground when was sitting with the seat height approx the same level as my hip bone. The salesman says I will be increasing the seat height even further once I become more comfortable with the bike and go for proper fitting. Unfortunately, they don't offer fitting services anymore.

Experts, please suggest whether I should go ahead with the XL. He has agreed to hold the bike (last piece) for a day for me. I visited another shop as well, and even they didn't have any L-sized MTBs with similar geometry in stock.

Toes touching the ground is not the criteria for a proper fit. The points to look at are how much bend you have in your legs at the bottom of the pedal stroke and if the reach to the handle bar comfortable.

Usually, in a properly fit bit, you would be able to reach the ground only with the tip of the toes. Once you brake, you will have to get off the seat and stand on both your feet. If you are able to completely rest your feet on the ground, it could mean the seat is too low.

[Red Liner]

Quick question. How much do these chains cost? 800 bucks or so? If yes, they seem to be reasonably cheap replacements. In which case, why obsess over candle wax, brushing the chain down etc?

[ebonho]

Originally Posted by Red Liner

Quick question. How much do these chains cost? 800 bucks or so? If yes, they seem to be reasonably cheap replacements. In which case, why obsess over candle wax, brushing the chain down etc?

7 and 8 speed chains cost 500 bucks for the base version KMC.

The freewheel / cassette on which it runs (and which it eats in short order) costs 1000 to 1500 bucks though.

And the crank costs from 1500 bucks for the base Tourney to 5500 for base Claris to 15000 for the 105 to 25000 for the Ultegra to 50000 for the Dura Ace.

It all adds up. It's all a connected unit. And one worn part starts eating away perfectly good parts elsewhere in a chain.

You put a brand new chain on a worn cassette and that chain will be knackered inside the first 200 kilometres.

You put a brand new cassette on a worn chain and the chain will skip under load,till it eats away a valley between the cassette teeth to match it's elongated links and then everything will magically settle down. Only you now had an equally aged knackered brand new cassette.

The chainrings of the crank are much stronger and harder. But like water eventually erodes stone, they too will eventually get scalloped ... and the cost of replacing them is a lot more than a 500 buck chain taken care of and replaced on time in the first place.

Besides all of which, a dirty drivetrain is a power sucker and makes for shabby imprecise slow shifts and a slow rough ride. A clean drivetrain is a transformative feeling. Even more than a clean bike, or as much as a clean bike.

[ach1lles]

On a whim, decided to carry a change of clothes, luckily the rain decided to take a break by the time I reached the store on MG. Asked them to bring out the XS.

While I changed, I asked them to ready the Marin, and one other comparable bike so I could take a test ride back to back.

They got the Polygon S4 out. Size 54, or, M.

And we went out for a long, long test ride, which when over had my watch tell me we’d been riding for over 30 kms. My bum tells me it was probably longer

Back to back, the Marin really made its weight felt. The S4 was much quicker, rolled farther freely, and felt more nimble. The 4C on the other hand was smoother, felt more stable, filtered out the road buzz, but was definitely slower.

The S4 in medium, or 54, felt like the right size. The Marin XS felt small. Not too much, but it did feel like a size up at S would be a much better fit.

Which brings me to my main point.

This Marin, the XS, is one sweetly set up bike. Everything felt as good as it did the first time I rode it. But wait. Turns out, that is not a new bike. It’s a used bike, and as per them, it was sold in March itself but the buyer decided last month he didn’t care for it anymore.

At which point I asked for them to offer the original invoice. They can’t because “our system was formatted”. What is this, 2001?

Okay, let me speak to the previous owner.
No sir, we can’t give his details like that.

Hmm.

Now, they’re vouching for the bike, and offering it at a really good price.

It has had atleast one fall, or scrape, on the drive side. Pictures attached. Operationally it felt absolutely fine, but I’m not exactly mr. experienced here.










My conundrum here is this: do I compromise on the size a bit, and save quite a bit of money, and take a chance on this used piece, or wait for the correct size which should show up, as per them, in the beginning of next month.

On bike pics for size feedback:

Marin Four Corners XS






Let sanity prevail a bit, that bloat is most definitely not my stomach

Polygon S4 “54”






TL;DR
Is the Marin too small? It’s a (barely) used but scratched piece for 50k. Seems to work fine.