[narayanang76]

Originally Posted by ebonho

Narayan is it 3-4 times or 3-4 chains, in terms of reusing the smart link?

I have reused my links across 2 different chains at least (mechanic suggested to keep). However those links were not touched except while changing the chain. Next time I definitely will change the link irrespective to what they say.

Originally Posted by Red Liner

I saw the chain measuring tool in Decathlon. I will probably get it as well for home maintenance. It said 0.5 wear.

0.5 wear already? How many kms covered so far with your current chain?

Originally Posted by ebonho

The smart link costs more than a normal 7 or 8 speed chain (450-500 bucks).

Yes exactly, links are comparably expensive to the price of the chain itself. 11 speed link is around 2.5K INR, as I remember (2 links inside the pack)

[Red Liner]

Originally Posted by narayanang76

I

0.5 wear already? How many kms covered so far with your current chain?



Yes exactly, links are comparably expensive to the price of the chain itself. 11 speed link is around 2.5K INR, as I remember (2 links inside the pack)

No, i meant the literature said 0.5 on the box.

[ebonho]

Originally Posted by narayanang76

I have reused my links across 2 different chains at least (mechanic suggested to keep). However those links were not touched except while changing the chain. Next time I definitely will change the link irrespective to what they say.

Basically there are two issues. One is the repeated removal and refitting of the smart link which might cause wear of the notch as well as deformation of the link side plates. The other is the fact that the smart link is an integral link of your chain. So as the chain wears, the smart link is also wearing out equally. So when you are using a 3-5000 I'm or whatever worn smart link on a new chain, you are introducing a small fraction of uneven wear into your entire drivetrain, which will essentially be repeated with every revolution of the crank on the chain ring, and multiple times on the rear cog for every crank revolution. Over the life of the next chain. That's why I like SRAM and KMC chains that come with their own smart link brand new.

[itisravi]

Originally Posted by ebonho

One is the repeated removal and refitting of the smart link which might cause wear of the notch as well as deformation of the link side plates. The other is the fact that the smart link is an integral link of your chain.

While I don't have any personal experience with the product, there exists a 'Wippermann Connex Link' which can be removed and refitted any number of times without damaging the link or without the need for tools. So the only wear will be due to chain usage and not removal during maintenance.

[ebonho]

Originally Posted by itisravi

While I don't have any personal experience with the product, there exists a 'Wippermann Connex Link' which can be removed and refitted any number of times without damaging the link or without the need for tools. So the only wear will be due to chain usage and not removal during maintenance.

Dr. Oz's personal favourite.

Personally, would you trust a chain for hard off saddle efforts that can be taken apart by your bare fingers?

[itisravi]

Originally Posted by ebonho

Personally, would you trust a chain for hard off saddle efforts that can be taken apart by your bare fingers?

Since you said personally, the answer is yes since my estimated FTP hovers around a lowly 170 (so you know what is a hard effort for me).
Jokes apart, I think it should be safe since it comes off only in a vertical position.

Dr. Oz's personal favourite.

Yup, he vouches for it (6:49 in the video):

https://youtu.be/GmhX3G8pm5M?t=403

[ringoism]

I'm not sure if anyone in the thread has made reference to this Gurgaon supplier yet, but they seem to have a pretty large range of bicycle lubes, among other cycle parts, tyres and stuff:

https://www.wizbiker.com/lubes

Any recommendations on any of these?

-Eric

[ebonho]

Originally Posted by ringoism

I'm not sure if anyone in the thread has made reference to this Gurgaon supplier yet, but they seem to have a pretty large range of bicycle lubes, among other cycle parts, tyres and stuff:

https://www.wizbiker.com/lubes

Any recommendations on any of these?

-Eric

None actually.

I would recommend Squirt, or Muc Off Wet.

Of all the oil based lubes I've tried, my drive train (wheels, sprockets and chain) feel smoothest and run cleanest with Muc Off Wet.

One old school racer who rides a Pinarello Dogma now swears by coconut oil for the past 30 years

[ebonho]

Finally got around to installing the freshly waxed chain on my ACT 110.

The crank was removed and cleaned and washed thoroughly.

Both derailleurs were cleaned thoroughly on the bike. Especially all spots touching the chain.

Both RD jockey wheels, bushes, and RD cage (rear part) were removed, cleaned and thoroughly washed and then refitted with new grease.

Took the opportunity to remove the chain guard as well as the piece that clips around the crank in the center of the spider.

Everything was put back and then I went for a short ride and took the chain through all 3 rings multiple times, as well as up and down the cogs on the freewheel to get some wax on to all the teeth, before wiping down the chain of the excess clinging to the tops and sides. Using a soft bristled clothes brush to dust flakes off from.the rear derailleur, chain rings, frame, rear rim and spokes (which got a proper dusting of wax on the run).















Hope you guys enjoyed the entire process documentary.

Cheers, Doc

[ebonho]

Originally Posted by narayanang76

Doc, Just curious, and off topic, have you checked it with the chain wear tool to check it's conditions and actual wear?

They say a worn out chain can potentially wear out your casette and chain rings faster.

I have the tool and I keep checking the chain wear periodically and change the chain when it crosses 50% wear approximately.

Cheers
Narayanang76

Both my bikes are home now with freshly waxed chains and totally clean drive trains (chain rings, cassette and freewheel, derailleur cages, and jockey wheels specifically). Can finally get back to riding again!



The ACT chain as expected is totally gone ... of the three prongs, even the 1.0 is going in completely through. A winter drive train, brakes and tyres overhaul is on the cards for Blue.

The CAAD KMC chain is still going strong (with primarily Muc Off Wet for most of its life, and Squirt for the last season) at 9,000+ km (was replaced at 2000 km, and the CAAD is at 11,300 odd right now) with not even the 0.5 going in beyond the tip of the prong. Mech opines there's 1500-2000 more kms in it.





Cheers, Doc

[ebonho]

The currently running KMC chain ...





Just super value for 450 bucks over 9000 km already and which will probably (with the wax) go till 12000.

[amvj]

Any recommendation for cheap, but decent quality chain lube?
Earlier I bought Finish line wax lubricant but it is over now.



Currently I have Looplube (spray type which I don't like) and Chain juice (which I find a bit expensive).

[ebonho]

Originally Posted by amvj

Any recommendation for cheap, but decent quality chain lube?

If you're okay with a wet oil based lube, why don't you try normal coconut oil. Buy a small bottle of Parachute oil or even a sachet and use it on your chain, and wipe off the excess with a clean cloth on the outside. Repeat this clean after every ride and refresh the oil per feel.

Cheers, Doc

P.S.Coconut oil is a tried and tested groin lube as well for many BRM riders.

[amvj]

Originally Posted by ebonho

If you're okay with a wet oil based lube, why don't you try normal coconut oil. Buy a small bottle of Parachute oil or even a sachet and use it on your chain, and wipe off the excess with a clean cloth on the outside. Repeat this clean after every ride and refresh the oil per feel.

Cheers, Doc

P.S.Coconut oil is a tried and tested groin lube as well for many BRM riders.

Hey Doc. I hope you are not sarcastic.
I heard that even in GCN, they mentioned that to use 'olive oil' to stop the chain squeal in case if you don't have the option (like midway on a trip).

That said, no I don't want to use any natural oil and attract insects such as ants to gather around my bicycle chain. If no other option, then I will continue to buy what is available on the market. By the way, what brand are you using?

I find almost all the lubricants are imported and hence they are exorbitantly priced.

[ebonho]

Originally Posted by amvj

Hey Doc. I hope you are not sarcastic.
I heard that even in GCN, they mentioned that to use 'olive oil' to stop the chain squeal in case if you don't have the option (like midway on a trip).

That said, no I don't want to use any natural oil and attract insects such as ants to gather around my bicycle chain. If no other option, then I will continue to buy what is available on the market. By the way, what brand are you using?

I find almost all the lubricants are imported and hence they are exorbitantly priced.

No I was not being sarcastic. I mentioned in an earlier post that many old school racers have been using this same on their race bikes for decades.

Since you were asking for something cheap, I thought you could try this and tell us how it works.

I've tried Singer sewing machine oil and it doesn't last long, gets gritty and black very quickly.

I prefer 2T motorcycle oil over machine oil.

I was using Muc Off Wet.

Then Squirt.

Now hot molten wax dip.

Cheers, Doc