[Red Liner]

Thanks Mi10

What I have seen online is a pure traditional wax application is also great in the rains and warrants almost no cleaning thereafter. Is that right? I saw some videos online and they are unreal.

How does squirt do in the rains? If squirt application needs deep cleaning after a rain ride and reapplication at this level, i wonder if all the effort is worth it. Wouldn't a traditional wax on be better? Does squirt attract dirt as well because of the water content?

[ebonho]

Originally Posted by Mi10

This is what i follow.

• Turn the bike upside down and Remove the rear wheel.
• *Spray* some degreaser / any alcohol based cleaner on chains, crank teeth, pully wheels and cassette
• wait for 1-2 min and then start to wipe it off with a dry waste cloth (you might need lot more than you think, if your bike is having too much old grease)
• Clean the pulley wheels and Crank teeth first, and lastly the chain, since those two areas accumulate most muck and pass it on to chain.
• Clean the cassette with a thin dry cloth where you can insert between each cog and get the upper + lower areas cleaned.
• after you have completely cleaned the areas, take a hair dryer or a vaccum with blower mode and gently having them clean it (again not more than 1-2 min in total)
• Apply Squirt (best is to apply atleast 4 hrs before a ride, i usually do it 10-12 hrs before the ride)

I do this once in a month since i only do 2 outdoor session per week (~400 kms). The exception is if you get to ride on a rainy day - then irrespective of the schedule this gets repeated.

But if you've been using Squirt and this is not a fresh first time application, you do not need such an elaborate process in my experience (I ride more road than trainer).

Normal car shampoo is enough after a mucky ride, since the drivetrain does not get black and gunky like with normal lubes. If the bike is really grimy, use Vim dish wash liquid and really hot water (so hot that I can just about dip my hand in the bucket).

In fact in the dry, especially indoors on the trainer, a dry cloth over the jockey wheels. chain (around the big ring so that you can clean it in segments with equal pressure on the rollers as well as both sides of the links), and chain ring teeth. And I use a dry toothbrush or clothes brush to brush off the cassette cogs. Never seen any buildup deep down between the cogs with Squirt to need getting at with the edge of a thin cloth. Of course I wipe the bike down with a wet microfiber after every ride to clean it of sweat and salts. Regardless.

Here's my bike today morning after a mucky ride (light rain, lots of mud spray from the tyres), and after a 10 minute plain water wash. The Squirt is going strong 100 km in @dragontailonfire .

Oh and yeah, 5000 km up for the year!!!

A bit behind the curve for my target this year but will catch up in the 5 months that remain.





Cheers, Doc

P.S. After an equally muddy ride yesterday, with cold mud water trickling down my natal cleft , I've added the ass saver today. MUCH better!

[splitsecond]

Originally Posted by ebonho

But if you've been using Squirt and this is not a fresh first time application, you do not need such an elaborate process in my experience (I ride more road than trainer).

Is it compulsory for a new bike to remove the chain and clean first time before applying Squirt? If so do i need to cut chain? I have a bottle of Squirt and my new bike will be delivered in two weeks time.

[ebonho]

Originally Posted by splitsecond

Is it compulsory for a new bike to remove the chain and clean first time before applying Squirt? If so do i need to cut chain? I have a bottle of Squirt and my new bike will be delivered in two weeks time.

Yrs. All new chains come with factory oils. You need to clean it thoroughly in diesel and then degreaser and water, possibly multiple times (soak and shake in an empty jar with lid), before it becomes completely stripped of oil.

[Mi10]

Originally Posted by Red Liner

Thanks Mi10

What I have seen online is a pure traditional wax application is also great in the rains and warrants almost no cleaning thereafter. Is that right? I saw some videos online and they are unreal.

How does squirt do in the rains? If squirt application needs deep cleaning after a rain ride and reapplication at this level, i wonder if all the effort is worth it. Wouldn't a traditional wax on be better? Does squirt attract dirt as well because of the water content?

Originally Posted by ebonho

But if you've been using Squirt and this is not a fresh first time application, you do not need such an elaborate process in my experience (I ride more road than trainer).

Normal car shampoo is enough after a mucky ride, since the drivetrain does not get black and gunky like with normal lubes. If the bike is really grimy, use Vim dish wash liquid and really hot water (so hot that I can just about dip my hand in the bucket).

In fact in the dry, especially indoors on the trainer, a dry cloth over the jockey wheels. chain (around the big ring so that you can clean it in segments with equal pressure on the rollers as well as both sides of the links), and chain ring teeth. And I use a dry toothbrush or clothes brush to brush off the cassette cogs. Never seen any buildup deep down between the cogs with Squirt to need getting at with the edge of a thin cloth. Of course I wipe the bike down with a wet microfiber after every ride to clean it of sweat and salts. Regardless.

Let me tell you my reasons.

First of all in Indoors when you are training with power, there will be heavy stress and heat experienced between chain and its other contact parts like crank, cassette and fly wheels. In fact this is directly propositional to the Power levels one is riding under. Heat build up always makes wax to wean off too soon (whether it is squirt or other traditional forms of chain waxing). So in a month i will be doing ~400 kms outdoor + 10 hours of Indoor making a case for monthly cleaning.

Secondly in Rain rides, While the wax will protect the chain, there will be lot of sand particles that get struck in between cogs and some unreachable areas like just near the flywheel hinge. While slightly moderate ones will fall off on contact with chain, the extremely smaller granules just hang in there, getting meshed up with chain / crank teeth insertions and in between cogs. While i don't have conclusive proof that this will be damaging, i do hate the very thought of some foreign body getting onto these moving parts & chain. This is why i use squirt after rain rides - that said, i never plan a ride while it is raining or even while there is a forecast for rain. My Rain rides have always been caught during a sudden outburst types !

[ebonho]

Originally Posted by Mi10

Let me tell you my reasons.

So in a month i will be doing ~400 kms outdoor + 10 hours of Indoor making a case for monthly cleaning.

That's a huge volume of usage between one Squirt application and the next.

Or do you mean you keep dry wiping and Squirting during the month (when the chain squeaks start) but the washing/cleaning with degreaser and soap water is once a month?

If so, when my bike was on the trainer, that was my routine too.

Squirt after dry rub maybe once a week (6-7 hours) with bike taken off the trainer, outside and a full degreaser and shampoo wash and re-Squirt monthly.

[Mi10]

Originally Posted by ebonho

That's a huge volume of usage between one Squirt application and the next.

Or do you mean you keep dry wiping and Squirting during the month (when the chain squeaks start) but the washing/cleaning with degreaser and soap water is once a month?

If so, when my bike was on the trainer, that was my routine too.

Yes Doc! I go through the complete ordeal ! Clean with Degreaser, let it dry, some hot air and then Squirt before letting it dry for another 6-7 hrs.

Been working good for me. I do this on my other bike as well since i keep switching both for indoor and outdoor. (don't ask me why )

[ebonho]

Pretty much exactly what I do - after 2-3 weekday rides or a weekend century.

I also additionally "floss" the cogs of the rear cassette as well (something he did not do in the video).

https://youtu.be/eV3ChqLu1So

My concern about using degreaser, solvents, or even hot water while doing a full wash-down of the drivetrain is that it should not erode the wax buildup between the pins and rollers internally, which is a good thing, takes a few applications to build up, and and most stuff on the internet says that it gets smoother and better with time and buildup. Which is, your chain will (should) run a lot smoother after 4-6 applications than after the first.

[Red Liner]

Great video on squirt.

https://youtu.be/VOpW0nZXOFk

Her tee shirt was great too.

[ebonho]

Originally Posted by Red Liner

Great video on squirt.

Yeah, I too saw this one on one of my searches for Squirt in the wet. She's a very accomplished ultra distance cyclist and vlogger.

My Squirt-ed ACT is going strong 160 km in. All in the wet, and loads of mud splatter.

First wash I washed the drivetrain with a wet cloth.

Next two I did not. Let the bike dry through the day. And rubbed it down with a dry cloth in the evening.

Seema to be working. Even with my halfhearted initial clean of the chain and crank and cassette.

I'll probably do a deep clean with WD40, near boiling water and Vin, and brushes this Sunday and give the chain a double coat for the week ahead.

Originally Posted by Red Liner

Let me therefore begin with the first inaugural post in the new section

She decided she wanted to be in my bedroom. What can i say?

Lol. She looks comfortable. And smug.

I still feel the hoods are pointing way too upward for a nice neutral grip and stance on the bike.

You last set of photos was good. Did you fiddle again?!

[Red Liner]

Originally Posted by ebonho

Yeah, I too saw this one on one of my searches for Squirt in the wet. She's a very accomplished ultra distance cyclist and vlogger.

My Squirt-ed ACT is going strong 160 km in. All in the wet, and loads of mud splatter.

First wash I washed the drivetrain with a wet cloth.

Next two I did not. Let the bike dry through the day. And rubbed it down with a dry cloth in the evening.

Seema to be working. Even with my halfhearted initial clean of the chain and crank and cassette.

I'll probably do a deep clean with WD40, near boiling water and Vin, and brushes this Sunday and give the chain a double coat for the week ahead.

What I did:
Day 1
1. Soak chain in kerosene with tooth brush. Generous application.
2. Spray with WD40
3. Pour hot water near boiling. Generous.
4. Evening: another application of kerosene.

Day 2
1. One more round of kerosene. Generous. Toothbrush remained clean. Good indicator! Kerosene residue in mug also remained clean.
2. Allow to dry
3. Hot water wash. Flush all residue out.
4. Allow to dry
5. Wax application 1 in the evening
6. Wax app 2 in the night
7. Dry

Day 3
Final wax application. Just a drop on each roller. This time i wax each section of the chain. Wait 20 mins to dry. Roll the chain. Repeat. Then the wax does not drip down the front ring.

I reduced the stem length however and it feels good. No back or shoulder pain.

[ebonho]

Massive deep clean of the ACT today. Had to abort the morning ride coz the chain was squeaking to high heaven... so 150 odd km in the wet with Squirt (but on a rudimentary clean chain).

Let us Squirt and see now....

[dragntailonfire]

Had an intense cleaning session over the weekend. I finally removed the chain and went for a thorough cleaning.

This was the original look: the entire chain, cassette and chain rings were covered in gunk.





On Saturday, the chain was immersed in acetone for few minutes and then completely scrubbed using a toothbrush. This was done to remove the factory lube.



Then it was immersed in boiling water and was completely dried. The idea was that the wax from Squirt application will melt off, and free any of the remaining grease stuck inside the pins.



I cleaned the chain rings and cassette, again using acetone. I broke off the offending "dork disk" to get more access to clean the cassette from behind as well.

On Sunday, the chain had another acetone bath and scrub, in which a surprising amount of grease came off again. After that, by running a thin cotton cloth through each link, I was able to get it squeaky clean.







Here is the clean chain, cassette (sans dork disk now) and chain rings, after everything was put back on.







Ready for fresh coat of Squirt.



Finally, all ready for a smooth ride tomorrow morning.





Overall, this was very exhausting to do. Cleaning with acetone was tricky too, as it evaporates very fast. I plan to buy a de greaser and that chain cleaner thingy as well. I do not want to remove the chain again, for cleaning.

[goandude]

Originally Posted by dragntailonfire

Had an intense cleaning session over the weekend. I finally removed the chain and went for a thorough cleaning.

Overall, this was very exhausting to do. Cleaning with acetone was tricky too, as it evaporates very fast. I plan to buy a de greaser and that chain cleaner thingy as well. I do not want to remove the chain again, for cleaning.

Wow that is an extremely clean chain, and a heck of a lot of effort to get it that way. Hats off to you. With what do you lube it? If I may suggest, use paraffin wax, it's very good and with a clean chain like this it will last a long time. Only downside is that it needs more frequent application in wet conditions (like monsoons)

What chain ring do you have? I have a similar RC120 as yours with a "Prowheel Ounce" chainring. It wears off quite fast as fellow TBHPian Aneezan found out.

[sunbaj]

Originally Posted by goandude

What chain ring do you have? I have a similar RC120 as yours with a "Prowheel Ounce" chainring. It wears off quite fast as fellow TBHPian Aneezan found out.

I would agree. Even I have "Prowheel" chainrings and I have observed that it is wearing out quite fast. Not too happy with it. Seems that by 5 to 7 K will have to go in for a new set of chainrings. Not sure what is the average life of chainrings though.