[self_driven]

Originally Posted by Subroto

The car - a 2018 model - has been serviced at the company ASS, the odometer has not been tampered with as it matches the service history and the best part is, it is still under factory warranty!

Perfect.

can one take insurance of a car owned by someone else without the owner's identity proof?

Yes. Lapsed insurance is no big deal when buying used cars. Dealers take care of all paperwork. As a buyer you only have to validate the claims made by the dealer (for eg. loan foreclosure in this case) and ensure the car is in good shape.

I need that to be done before I could apply for RC transfer in my name at the RTO.

Not only for ownership transfer, a barebones third party insurance will be needed even for hypothecation removal.

The only way out now is to negotiate with the dealer and pay 10k (online) to block the car.

1. Before paying token amount, ask for some document/proof to validate the dealer's claim of loan foreclosure. If possible confirm these details with the bank. After paying the token amount, ask dealer to get the car insured and apply for bank NOC.

2. Only when the dealer obtains bank NOC, transfer the rest and take delivery. Upon receiving the payment, dealer will apply for hypothecation removal and RC transfer. They have agents at RTO who'll get both of these done together.

3. Once you get the updated RC, get the insurance transferred to your name.

[prakash24979]

After RC transfer, get the insurance transferred within 15 days otherwise a survey report is required as per the new rules.

[Subroto]

Lapsed insurance is no big deal when buying used cars. Dealers take care of all paperwork.

Not only for ownership transfer, a barebones third party insurance will be needed even for hypothecation removal.

Thanks for the info. I had meanwhile found that there is an option for RC transfer online from parivahan.gov.in, but one can't proceed unless the vehicle has a valid insurance.

Before paying token amount, ask for some document/proof to validate the dealer's claim of loan foreclosure. If possible confirm these details with the bank.

Here is the roadblock! This is something the dealer can't produce. Though I have verified (not from the finance company) that the car does not have any outstanding loan, I would hold on to my purse string till I see the NOC. Overcautious? This is not the last car in the world!

After RC transfer, get the insurance transferred within 15 days otherwise a survey report is required as per the new rules.

Thanks Prakash24979. Would keep that in mind.

Surprisingly, the agent I know at Noida RTO (UP16) told me that physical presence of both the seller and the buyer is mandatory during the RC transfer application process! Can any BHPian who has done RC transfer at Noida RTO share his experience?

[pawank]

Originally Posted by ach1lles

Hi guys, quick questions. It takes about three weeks for an updated RC to be issued, when applied for transfer of ownership.
Can I as a buyer drive the vehicle on road in those couple of weeks?
What if the traffic police stops me for a check?
And if I have a crash, will the insurance cover it?

Thanks.

Yes, you can drive the vehicle. But you must carry photocopy of the previous RC, RTO receipt of RC transfer and the sales paper.

Yes, the insurance will cover the vehicle but you must have the consent of the current owner to drive the vehicle. If the RC has not been transferred yet, then the previous owner is still the current owner.

[Subroto]

Surprisingly, the agent I know at Noida RTO (UP16) told me that physical presence of both the seller and the buyer is mandatory during the RC transfer application process! Can any BHPian who has done RC transfer at Noida RTO share his experience?

No one here having done RC transfer at Noida RTO?

Answer to this question can make or break the deal as I have now learnt that the car has been taken away by the finance company from the owner as he defaulted. The dealer has paid for the foreclosure and got the car. The finance company got all the paperwork done by the owner and would hand over everything together with the NOC once it comes from the HQ.

That means, the owner is not going to be available even if there is a mismatch in signatures on these papers, let alone a regular show at the RTO.

Is it safe to proceed - provided the papers are in order - and have faith in the dealer that his agent at the RTO has "means" to overcome such "hurdles" as absence of the owner/mismatch in signatures and would get the RC transfer done?

Desparately in need of your guidance

[PradoGdr88]

Hello All,

I just wanted to share my experience of buying a pre-worshipped Rapid in Bangalore hope it helps.

This pandemic has been a boon and a curse for a used car buyer.

Let’s get to the curse first, I was on the lookout for a pre-worshipped Rapid or Vento (petrol) in the same order of preference as mentioned. I took my time and the hunt lasted for 6 months.

Below given are my observations:
1) As the lock-down extended supply of pre-worshipped cars were on the decline.
2) Most sellers were dealers or dealers disguised as average Joe.
3) Lot of sellers pulled out their ads as they paused their plans of upgrading their existing ride.

Now to the boon's:
1) Cars with not so good reputation when it comes to maintenance (Read Rapid and Vento in my case) were not flying of the shelf anymore. To be honest let’s say they were moving even more slowly thanks to the pandemic.
2) Most dealers were ready to bring their car to customer preferred location.
3) End to End solution providers like Spinny looked attractive (Though a bit costlier than direct approach they literally take care of all things from test drive to paper works. Note I am not associated to Spinny in anyway nor did I end up buying a car from them. Just that I liked the idea, one place solution for all needs related to pre-worshipped car buying).

My Approach to things:
1) I fixed on my budget and my choice of car (Rapid(first preference), Vento(second preference), manual, petrol and after Sept 2016 because this meant I will get a car which is under 4 year warranty and I also have an option to extend it by another 2 years if I pick a Rapid).
2) I was ready to wait as I would not be doing a lot of travel thanks to the pandemic.
3) Short listed four options and contacted them (OLX, Spinny & Car24 were my go-to sites). Made it crystal clear about my expectation, budget range and also conveyed my intention to visit only sellers where there is a high possibility of a deal conversion. This saved me a lot of time and unnecessary travel (but for a dealer visit more on that)
4) Checked if the car had some traffic fines.
5) Decided to use the services of GetPitstop to get the car inspected whenever I went to check out a car.
6) Inspection of cars was strictly restricted to morning hours and at a place on my convenience (better visibility and safer when meeting strangers).
6) Deal clauses:
6.1) Token amount of 10k INR only (an amount I am fine with losing).
6.2) Final price, date of delivery and items to be handed over (read: invoice, spare key and so on) to be confirmed as an e-mail.
6.3) No hard cash (digital trail could come in handy if things go south).
6.4) Two copies of all documents+ insurance. A complete set of Form 29, Form 30, Sale Receipt, Delivery of Vehicle acknowledgement is available at any BDA complex for an amount of 40 INR. (Note: I keep this additional copy of Sale Receipt, Delivery of Vehicle acknowledgement, Form 29, Form 30 and Insurance in the car as my RC transfer is in progress)
6.5) Gaadilicense.com folks were preferred for the RC transfer process mainly because they had a pickup and drop of documents facility and were charging a bit lesser than local agents who were trying to take me for a ride. I will update this thread on my experience with them currently I am in week two post submission of documents.
6.6) Transfer of insurance- yet to reach this stage.

I religiously went through the items mentioned above and ended up picking a Skoda Rapid (2017).

Trivia:
1) Stay away from dealers as much as possible: A dealer tried to sell me a Vento which had Jugaad fix for its broken radiator, ECU was fixed horizontally in the engine bay rather than the expected vertical fix. I was a noob but was saved thanks to the mechanical inspection.
2) Offer your price and keep calm: I was confident that not many would invest on a pre-worshipped car at this movement that too in my price range hence played the waiting game. A vento owner was ready to reduce close to 80K inr in a span of three weeks time.
3) From identifying a seller to transfer of RC everything can be outsourced to experts if you are ready to pay a bit. Though all the paperwork can be done without additional help I chose not to as the risk involved in being exposed to a lot of folks was not worth it.

Notes:
1) This is my first post in team-bhp please do pardon me for my mistakes.
2) I do not promote or advertise the agencies mentioned in my post. Just that I either liked their business offering or used their service to make my life easier.

[Subroto]

That helps a lot PradoGdr88! Tips which would come handy when I finally take the plunge.

Unfortunately, avoiding the dealers doesn't seem to be an option for me as I have not come across a single owner on TeamBHP classifieds, OLX, Quickr, Mahindra First Choice or Cars24 selling the car I am looking for. And my search for that elusive vehicle is already more than five months old.

A Ford EcoSport titanium plus automatic of May 2018 or later is what I am looking for, from the same state to avoid the hassle of NOC and RC transfer and paying a hefty road tax in my state of residence.

I have a question though. Does a buyer still pay the dealer's commission if the dealer owns the car (owner according to the RC doesn't come in the picture as the car is taken over by the finance company due to default of instalment and the dealer paid for the foreclosure and took the car) and the entire payment is made to him?

Or the price at which the deal is finalized is the total payment?

[TheGearBox]

Lot of useful tips on buying used cars here.
I was just reading jalajprakash's thread on his extensively modified Skoda Laura 1.8 TSi, which he is putting up for sale. Last week, harish posted that he has sold off his Stage 2 VW Polo GT TSi.
And this got me thinking: Is it a good idea to buy used modified cars? And if yes, then what are the points one should keep in mind? I was actually trying to add a new post on this topic to the "On buying a car" section, but I guess that privilege is reserved for the moderators only.
Does anyone have any experience on buying used cars which have been modified by their previous owners?
Note: I am referring to performance mods, not merely cosmetic ones.

[Thatautoguy46]

Hello everyone, we have been looking for a reliable workhorse from a long time. But now, as my dad travels 80KM daily it became a necessity. So, looking for some reliable diesel car.
.
Came across a Honda Amaze VX 2013, IDTEC, 52K KMS on the odometer. No niggles from the engine perspective, need to spend 30K on the Clutch, Two Shock absorbers and a screw near Hand brake. The tyres will last 5K Kilometers. The final fixed price is 3.65L.
.
Money to be spent :
3.65L for car
30K for repairs
7800 for Dealer commission
2000 for ownership transfer
Total = 4.05L
.
We liked the car very much, Brown shade with Alloys in Black.
.
This is the first time we are looking for a used car, we currently own a 2011 Santro. Need your advices

[WhiteSierra]

Originally Posted by Thatautoguy46

Came across a Honda Amaze VX 2013, IDTEC, 52K KMS on the odometer. No niggles from the engine perspective, need to spend 30K on the Clutch, Two Shock absorbers and a screw near Hand brake. The tyres will last 5K Kilometers. The final fixed price is 3.65L.

Amaze IDTEC (1st generation) is a good car with good performance, it is built on Brio's platform. Don't expect the fuel efficiency to be as good as Swift dzire. On the positive side, it has better build quality than dzire. Hondas are reliable too.

3.65 L (4.05 total cost) for a 7 year old car seems to be on a higher side, since it has clocked only 52k kms, it seems to be a fair deal. Try to negotiate even further as the car clocked 52 k kms and probably might be on 1st set of tyres (OEM factory tyres), the broker and owner might tell you that they would easily last another 5k kms, but that's not true, check the tires closely, due to the tyres age (7 years), they might have become hard and developed micro cracks.

Since your Dad travels around 80 kms daily, it is risky for him to rely on these old tyres. So consider tyres cost also ~20K, and calculate the total amount to be spent on this vehicle, which goes up to 4.25L. Also, Honda vehicles don't command much resale value compared to Marutis or Hyundais. So, based on this try to negotiate a little bit more, atleast you can spend the saved money on new tyres immediately after purchasing. You will get that new car feel too.

[urbanzameendar]

Originally Posted by Thatautoguy46

Hello everyone, we have been looking for a reliable workhorse from a long time. But now, as my dad travels 80KM daily it became a necessity. So, looking for some reliable diesel car.

Any pre-owned car which demands anything apart from a regular service, tyre change, wheel alignment / balancing immediately after purchase is not a very immaculately maintained example.

Have you considered the insurance renewal in the cost? A 7 y/o car's asking price of 3.65L is one the higher side IMHO. It should not be anything over 3L, considering it's a first owner car and the speedometer is not tampered with. Get the car inspected at Honda Authorised Service Center (they may charge you a negligible amount for it) and use it to negotiate with the seller. As a first step, get 30k repair and 12k tyre expense deducted from the asking price bluntly and adamantly. Honestly you'd get a higher model for around the same or a little more amount if you hunt for it. Always bargain with the seller when buying a pre-owned car in a way as if you are doing a huge favour by purchasing it.

Also, the older Amaze has a tendency of getting hydro-locked in even normally flooded streets (which is now an inseparable thing with the terrestrial rains in cities) due to the construction of its air-intake system. Do research about it and consider it as well.

[Thatautoguy46]

Originally Posted by WhiteSierra

Since your Dad travels around 80 kms daily, it is risky for him to rely on these old tyres. So consider tyres cost also ~20K, and calculate the total amount to be spent on this vehicle, which goes up to 4.25L. Also, Honda vehicles don't command much resale value compared to Marutis or Hyundais. So, based on this try to negotiate a little bit more, atleast you can spend the saved money on new tyres immediately after purchasing. You will get that new car feel too.

Dad paid 10K non refundable advance without telling me
The actual quoted price was 4.1L. So dad thought 3.65L was a good deal. I think 3.5L could have made a great sense, because I'm thinking of changing the tyres ASAP. Our trustworthy Mechanic gave a thumbs up after he drove the car, so that's why my dad had paid the advance. The car looks good, has minor scratches that's it. So it aged well, I'm satisfied because I have nothing left to do.
The tyres are 175/65 14ers. Is that the good size or should there be an upgrade?

I thank you so much for your advice

[WhiteSierra]

Originally Posted by Thatautoguy46

Dad paid 10K non refundable advance without telling me

Our trustworthy Mechanic gave a thumbs up after he drove the car, so that's why my dad had paid the advance. The car looks good, has minor scratches that's it. So it aged well, I'm satisfied because I have nothing left to do.
The tyres are 175/65 14ers. Is that the good size or should there be an upgrade?

Non refundable advance means the deal is through. Congrats on your new car. My uncle (Dad's friend) had a 1st generation Amaze iDTEC MT, he used it for 4 years and 60k kms and exchanged it for new generation Amaze iDTEC AT. He loves this car and never had any issues during his ownership.

Regarding tyre upgradation, I'm not sure as I don't have much knowledge about Amaze tyre sizes, but I found this on Amaze review thread. Hope this will be useful for you.

Originally Posted by AmazeGuru

I changed the tyres of my car at same stage @ 37,000. Upsized to 185/65 R14 - Michelin XM2. Here are some observations:

1. Handling has definitely improved.
2. Road noise is not at all there now (stock GoodYear were the worst)
3. Ride has become little softer
4. I gained 7.1 mm of ground clearance
5. Steering has stayed soft as it was with stock tyres
6. I took a BIG hit on the mileage. It is down by at least 20% - both in City and on Highway

Overall very satisfied with the Michelins and the decision of upsizing.

Based on the above post, I would suggest you to stay away from upsizing as it reduces the mileage big time. OEMs test and assign a particular tyre size for perfect mileage and optimal performance. You are upgrading from Santro (Petrol) to Amaze (Diesel) for better mileage as your Dad's daily running has increased, so it would be better stick to original size with better quality rubber (Michelin, Yokohama), since Vizag roads are good, these soft compound tyres will be super comfortable on your ride. You need to upgrade tyre size only if you are pushing it to corners on high speeds, or for drag racing, burnouts, extra ground clearance etc. But most dads drive sedately, so there shouldn't be any issues with braking or handling. Also Amaze and other newer sedans are front wheel drive cars, which have under steer, as opposed to rear wheel drive cars which generally have over steer. So the drive will be planted and more than sufficient.

Few more posts on Amaze Tyre size upgradation

https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/test-...013-a-173.html (Review: 1st-gen Honda Amaze (2013))

[pawank]

Originally Posted by Subroto

Surprisingly, the agent I know at Noida RTO (UP16) told me that physical presence of both the seller and the buyer is mandatory during the RC transfer application process!

Sounds very absurd! I am not from Noida but from my experience of RC transfer in Maharashtra I can tell you that seller's presence is not required for NOC and RC transfer. Don't believe your agent blindly. Their typical dialogue would be like "Sir, you would need this and that document for RC transfer, but if you give me 500Rs extra. I can do your job without that document too." You must cross examine the facts by yourself. Give a call to Transport department of UP government on this number 1800 1800 151.

As far as I know, anyone can submit the documents on behalf of the seller for NOC as long as the forms are properly filled and signed. The important point to note here is that the NOC part is not your job, that must be done by the dealer. Once you got the NOC, then the relation between you and the seller is over, you don't need him anymore, not even for RC transfer.

Originally Posted by Subroto

Is it safe to proceed - provided the papers are in order - and have faith in the dealer that his agent at the RTO has "means" to overcome such "hurdles" as absence of the owner/mismatch in signatures and would get the RC transfer done?

If the papers are good and the vehicle is good, then where is the problem? Signature mismatch and owner's presence must be least of your concern. As long as you have Gandhiji(you know what I mean) with you, you won't face any hurdle at RTO's in India. But did you took the vehicle for long test drive(30-40KM at least). You should also get the car examine by the Authorised Service Center. Better to take a second opinion from a trustworthy local mechanic too.

[pawank]

Originally Posted by Thatautoguy46

Came across a Honda Amaze VX 2013, IDTEC, 52K KMS on the odometer. No niggles from the engine perspective, need to spend 30K on the Clutch, Two Shock absorbers and a screw near Hand brake. The tyres will last 5K Kilometers. The final fixed price is 3.65L.

Honda Amaze is a good car. We own a Honda Amaze IDTEC S 2013, it is a pre-owned car. Odometer was 95K KM when we bought it one and half years back. It cost us 3.25 Lakh and the insurance was valid at the time of purchase. Till now, we have changed the front tyres and front shock absorbers. My small suggestion for shock absorbers is that if you want to replace it then replace the whole unit(strut, springs, rubber mounts), don't end up replacing just struts like me. Clutch has starting to wear out too, we will change that soon. I think clutch plate and pressure plate replacement will cost between 10-15K if done from outside ASS. As per my knowledge Honda uses Exedy clutch and pressure plate, I am not sure though. Congratulations for your new car. Honda is very reliable, you won't regret this purchase. You can message me anytime, I have done lots of DIY related to my Amaze.