[TakeOnMe]

Mates, lot's of serious stuff has been shared. IMO, used car buying can be aced if one avoids the not so obvious pitfalls.

Low mileage autos are the easiest trap in the book. Turn back the clock and whoa! Let's be honest. Genuine low-mileage examples never reach the market. They are mostly taken by F&F of the seller as they have closely seen this vehicle during its ownership. For them the mileage is certified.

Other low mileage autos may have chronic problems that's why they've been sittin' all this while!

For private vehicles the owners profession does not (realistically) matter at all. Only the condition of the vehicle does. Look at how pristine the personal vehicles of chauffeurs are. Whereas we shun vehicles that have been driven mostly by chauffeurs!

Besides clean paperwork (forget service history, unless its a Mercedes!) a technical inspection might be a safe bet. But nothing replaces the first touch/feel, and drive. Go with your hunch. If you feel low, walk away.

Also, insist that the seller get the vehicle serviced once from a dealer of your choice before you take delivery. The bill will show you what it will (usually) cost to maintain.

Most important, don't look for bargains. If its good be prepared to spend.

[vinit.merchant]

One more scenario that comes to my mind, and haven't seen as a point mentioned in the advice.

How to detect whether the car is Flood affected or not?

[TakeOnMe]

If you suspect (based on logical conclusion) have the VIN checked from the manufacturer. After the floods most manufacturers rolled out specific programs, for these vehicles to come in for work. And they have complete lists of such vehicles & the (general) work done.

Another rule: 'as is where is' vehicles are to be completely avoided unless you know the seller (i.e. inside job). This declaration totally voids them from any litigation concerning the state of the vehicle. Usually companies use this terminology.

[GTO]

Originally Posted by vinit.merchant

How to detect whether the car is Flood affected or not?

Simplest way is to call the insurance company and check for substantial claims. A flood damaged vehicle is not cheap to repair and the owner, in all certainty, would have made an insurance claim.

[TakeOnMe]

...natural calamities may not be under cover. But if they are then this is an easy giveaway.

[vinit.merchant]

Originally Posted by GTO

Simplest way is to call the insurance company and check for substantial claims. A flood damaged vehicle is not cheap to repair and the owner, in all certainty, would have made an insurance claim.

The car has a third party insurance.

Moreover, it is a Palio 1.6 2002 model, surprisingly driven only 16000 kms. Its mentioned that the owner is a Navy Officer. Will be seeing the vehicle this weekend but wanted to get my self aware of all possible check points before I reach there..
I have the vehicle number. can this be of any help for checking purposes before going to check the car?

[GTO]

Well, flood damaged cars are not the easiest to detect. It's best to get it comprehensively checked by a competent service station.

Some tips:

1. As mentioned previously, look at the history of insurance claims.

2. Common sense : Where is the office & residence of the owner? For e.g. a car that has been parked in Parel has a greater chance of flood damage than one that has been exclusively used in churchgate. Of course, this point has various limirations and shouldnt be taken in exclusivity.

3. Look for any water level marks, rotting, dirt buildup or rust in unusual places.

4. Owners of newer gen cars such as the Getz, SX4 or Corolla would almost certainly get repairs done at an authorised service station. Call the A S S to procure the history of the car.

Again, more than anything, have it given the once over by an expert technician.

[Ramkumar]

I have shown my intent to a buyer to buy a used car registered in another state. Please guide me if i need to register the car in my state if so i would be incurring huge taxes in my state. is there any way out?

Please guide me

[evo]

Originally Posted by Ramkumar

I have shown my intent to a buyer to buy a used car registered in another state. Please guide me if i need to register the car in my state if so i would be incurring huge taxes in my state. is there any way out?

Please guide me

I think theres some rule which allows you to run a car from another state for 6 months without the need of an NOC or a fresh registration.

In case you register the car again, it`ll come under the "Migration from other state" category. But you`ll have to pay the full registration fees.

[m4ugr8]

I have a little query did not know where to post so will do it here.

One of my friends is re-locating and currently owns a car which he purchased through a loan of 3 years. Now the car is a year old and wants to sell.

Is it possible to sell a car whose loan period is going on?? whats the procedure if yes, How to transfer the ownership.

[johnda]

Originally Posted by m4ugr8

I have a little query did not know where to post so will do it here.

One of my friends is re-locating and currently owns a car which he purchased through a loan of 3 years. Now the car is a year old and wants to sell.

Is it possible to sell a car whose loan period is going on?? whats the procedure if yes, How to transfer the ownership.

Yes Ofcourse he can sell his car.
When he sells his car then it's simple, pay up the loan with the cash that he gets with selling the car.
Transfer of ownership will still be the same as in all cases.
Because Loans and Insurance are assigned to an individual and has to change when the product changes hands.
I did the same when I sold my Scorpio.

[GTO]

Now the car is a year old and wants to sell.

Your friend stands to lose an awful lot of money. The first couple of months take care of the interest more than the principal amount. Have him bargain on the foreclosure fees.

[Vamsi Krishna]

Exterior / Bodywork: The exterior / body is designed for safety, aesthetics & appeal of the car. Careful inspection of the exterior reveals the bodyline, alignment, and structural damage & if the car has been through an accident. In a monocoque body the crumple zones that are designed to protect the passengers, get affected.

• It is important to view the car in daylight. In rainy season ensure that the car is dry with out any rain droplets.
• Check the car for rust perforations. (Like: Bottom of the front windshield, sliding door railing, under body, exhaust system, etc).
• Check for sealant application in doors, fender aprons, etc to check for accidents.
• Check the paint condition, like: gloss, bubbles, overflow, and color mis-match. Any anomaly indicates that the car may have met with an accident. In this condition take out the weather strips & check for original weld spots.
• Look for signs of oil, coolant & petrol leakage, leakage of suspension.
• Check for cracks, chip off, and deep scratches in the front windshield. This is a safety item, so never take chances.
• Check all headlights & taillights are functioning & are not broken.
• All tyres should be of same make including the spare tyre. Check for re-treaded, re-grooving, wear pattern should be uniform.

The interiors of the cars show how well the previous owner has maintained the car. It is important not only to see the cleanliness but also the functioning of various items. Clean interiors some times may disguise the non-functioning parts.

• Check all the safety belts are functioning.
• Check all the elements in instrument panel (Battery indicator, Fuel Gauge, Temperature, speedometer, tachometer, trip meter, Odometer, Handbrake light, etc) are functioning
• Check for cabin light functioning
• Check for A/C louvers loose, hard, blower speed control, blower direction knob, and hot & cold knob.
• Seat reclining & sliding.
• Lift the carpet & see for floor damage or rust.
• Check for door trims, damage / cut of seats.
• Check all door locks, child locks for proper functioning.
• Fully open & close the window glasses & check for smooth operation, noise. Check for all switches of power windows functioning properly.
• Check the availability of Jack, Jack handle and tool kit.
• Damage of heat resistant material in the dickey area indicates rework in the rear floor area.

On Road Test:
Always take a road test before buying the car. Take road test for at least 10 minutes. If you are not an expert driver take some one along who is adept at driving. The road test reveals the overall condition of the car, the mechanical parts, steering, clutch, brakes, air conditioning, steering.

• The ignition key is coming out from the position when the engine is running.
• Radiator fan should not start immediately after the ignition is put on. The fan should start with a gap of after some time it should stop.
• Check for blue, black smoke from the exhaust. Blue smoke indicates heavy wear & tare to the engine.
• Check for clutch slippage. Even at high revolutions of the engine the car doesn’t speed up and engine revolution sound increases.
• Proper functioning of brakes.
• On a level road check for alignment. The car should not pull to either direction.
• Turn the vehicle completely in both the directions and check for abnormal sound from the drive shaft.
• Check the wiper for proper functioning at all the speeds & washer is also working. The wiper should come back to its original position when it is in switched off.
• Feel any abnormal noise in the steering.
• Listen for any excessive noise from the body, rattling noise from the doors.

Under Bonnet:
Please note don’t wear any loose clothes, tie, pallu, etc while checking the under the bonnet. Do not open the radiator cap when the engine is hot.

• The ID plate must be there and it should match with the chassis number punched on the body.
• Listen for any abnormal noise from the engine.
• Discolored coolant (faded), level of engine oil, brake oil, thickness of engine oil, A/C gas bubbling, floating sludge in the coolant & radiator.
• Leakage & damage of the ignition coil, hoses, chords, etc
• Visually check for the damage of fins of radiator & condenser.

Documentation:

Ask for the original RC & invoice.

• Verify the no of previous owners & status of hypothecation from the RTO.
• Always take the payment receipt from the sellers.
• Take commitments that R.C will be transferred in your name.
• If there is “no-claim-bonus” is not there in the insurance, check for the claim details.
• If the vehicle is registered in another state ask for the no objection certificate from the previous RTO. In that case you have to pay fresh road tax at the time of transferring in your name.
• The engine number, chassis number & the color, etc mentioning in the RC should match with the vehicle.
• If CNG or LPG is fitted it should be endorsed in the RC.

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[m4w]

Ok some nice info here on this thread. Thought I'd pip in with a few links.

1. MSN Auto: Used Car Checklist
Nice checklist that can be printed out with some pointers in there too. No pictures tho.

2. TopGear Buyer's Guide
More bullet points than you can shake a stick at.

3. Illustrated Used Car Guide (handout/print version)
Finally someone uses the power of the interweb to put up pictures. Nice for first-time used car buyers.

[loving_alaap]

A different question.

Does it make a difference in buying or selling a doctor owned car?

Usually dealers quote them bit more costly than other similar cards.