3-Way Vs. 2-Way
GRRRRRRrrrrrr... I am going BATTY here...:Frustrati
.. 3-way Components Vs. 2-way components...
Out of 2-Ways and 3-Ways Component. I would definately recommend 3-Way.
There are lot of advantages of 3-Way Components over the 2-Ways.
You get dedicated drivers for covering midbass, midrange and treble which results in better sound and imaging. You can place the midrange driver up and closer to the tweeter which will raise the height of your soundstage and will result in better imaging. And you don't feel the seperation between the drivers the way you feel in lot of 2-Way components.
The problem in lot of 2-way components is that the midrange driver can either produce decent quality midbass or good midrange. Very few can do best of both worlds and are generally expensive. In 3-way component its not a problem because midbass driver is taking care of only midbass and there is a dedicated driver for crucial midrange area.
.. Thanks JB... So which ones... (... and you know with what!!)
PASSIVE wtih ...
CDT HD 642 (2006 model)
CDT ES 643 (2006 Model)
CDT ES 07 (2006 Model)
MOREL HU 621, Mw 114's MDT 12 (in an all active setup??:D )
I agree with JB in most parts with one caeveat...
the crossover points employed should be such that the poles do not interferere significantly. I would consider crossove points that are about 1 decade apart to be good. for example 200Hz and 2000Hz and NOT 700hz and 1500Hz.
Kb100, a well designed passive 3-way would be my choice over an active one for the simple reason that it would be easy on 2 things. Firstly, you would need lesser channels of amplification, albeit more power, and secondly, it would be simpler for an average installer to set up a passive system. It would be quite easy to botch up the cut-offs and the levels when playing with the active crossover. To get it right, you'd need some very sound knowledge of the drivers parameters or very good ears or both!
Moreover, the biggest problem I face with 3-way components is with the relative placement of the drivers. Although this is vastly simpler with home audio tower type 3-way loudspeakers, the space restrictions in the car makes life difficult. I have seen some total jerks installing 8" midbasses in the rear parcel tray and using the 4"/ 5.25" mid and the tweeter for the front soundstage. That is a really corny way to implement it!
OK.. so no Active for Noobies....
Guru's .. Pls help me make these difficult decisions... Please understand that with WIFE around I get just ONE chance to get this right!... Dont think I will be permitted to buy even my own jhangas after this!... So no can upgrade for long long time... :)
PASSIVE 2 Way or 3way?? ... Which make?
JB/GUNMAN... Do Chams come in 3-way too??
Psst Kb100, I still have my unused Canton Pullman CS3.28 for sale. 2x10" + 2x5.25" + 2x1" dome tweeter.
If you get this, you don't even need a sub cos the 10" are pretty much subs, not just midbasses.
As per the link below, the price of the component set in Korea is about 880000 won which is about Rs. 42000/- and I thought I bought it expensive at Rs. 25000/- I'm however willing to let it go for something reasonable.
With the BIG-Fight going on all the attention seems to be there....
ICE ke MAhaatmaaoon.... pls shed some light for the benefit of all of us!!
You can use 3-way but there are lot of problems in installing the 3-way component system especially the one with bigger cone midranges 4", 5.25".
The problem is in installing big midranges. The only place to install the midrange is in the door or on the dash, on dash very few cars have location (Tatas, Merc 124's, Santro etc) and you cannot have enclosure for the midrange as it will be very big and obstruct the view. And in doors its very difficult to isolate the midrange and midbass driver from each other, failing to do that will result in bad sound.
The only good solution I see in 3-way is to use dome midrange. You don't have to make any enclosure as they are self enclosed and hence there is no problem in isolating as they have sealed back enclosure. There are very few good dome midrange based 3-way components.
Dynaudio is very good, the biggest problem with them is that they are power hungry. System 360 needs 300W per channel and 340 needs 250W minimum to play optimally. I am telling you by my personal experience. I still have 2-way System 240MkII starving at 200W of McIntosh power.
What I would like to suggest if you really want a 3-way is from Hertz based on following :
Hertz HT-25 : Soft Dome Tweeter
Hertz HD-500 : Soft Dome Midrange
Hertz HV-165L : Paper Pulp Cone Midbass
Hertz 3W-30 : 3-way passive network
This makes an amazing sounding 3-way setup with great SQ and detail. To equal it in 2-way setup go for ID Chameleons if you love the midrange detail.
Navinji, can you confirm if it was the same model which L&B has mentioned?
B&T./... There is a Canton Pullman CS 3.22 for sale here - boxed piece - only difference is this comes with an 8" woofer... opening quote was 14k - SPANKING BRAND NEW
B&T He is a prince and will get every thing at a good discounts even alloy wheels.!!!!!
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