Subwoofer / Audio enhancements for New Honda Civic...

iraghava · 15th July 2006, 00:38

So Basically to put it in one sentence "ICE your car the Speedzak way"!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :LOL

From support team: Please do not use full quote for your reply.

speedzak · 15th July 2006, 00:47

Quote:

Originally Posted by iraghava

So Basically to put it in one sentence "ICE your car the Speedzak way"!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :LOL

Nice one!

What I'm trying to say is there can be no end in ICEing up your car.

So rather than spending too much time thinking about the perfect audio, it's always best to see what's the budget and get the best thing for that and upgrade later for rest.

iraghava · 15th July 2006, 00:50

Quote:

Originally Posted by speedzak

Nice one!

What I'm trying to say is there can be no end in ICEing up your car.

So rather than spending too much time thinking about the perfect audio, it's always best to see what's the budget and get the best thing for that and upgrade later for rest.

Agree with you completely brother and please don't take offence at my earlier comment was just trying to make a joke!

speedzak · 15th July 2006, 01:01

Quote:

Originally Posted by iraghava

Agree with you completely brother and please don't take offence at my earlier comment was just trying to make a joke!

No offence here man!! That's why I said a 'nice one'
Without those jokes this forum should've been very dry!

kb100 · 15th July 2006, 01:36

ICE BLITZ!!... Sak Ishtyle! ....

929RON · 15th July 2006, 01:47

Quote:

Originally Posted by ST7677

Preferences...
Budget - Value for money - I am an average mortal, trying to strike a balance between dreams and reality

Interesting ! You can afford a Honda Civic and are an Average mortal at the same time too, very interesting !
Then the single car Zen/Santro Drivers are stark broke , LOLOL,
No Offence, you are not an average mortal,

ST7677 · 15th July 2006, 15:49

Speedzak, thanks for your ICE roadmap.

I would like to go with the first 4 points suggested by you...

Quote:

1. Change the front speakers to a nice set of components. (price range: 5.5k to 16k)

2. Get a nice 4channel amp. Power the components from the 2channels of the amp. (price range: 4k to 16k and above)

3. Get yourself a SUB. Bridge 2 channels of the amp to power the sub. (price range: 4k to 20k and above)

4. Change the rear speakers to some decent co-axials. (price range: 2.5k to 10k and above)

How do you power the rear co-axials in above scenario?

I guess it would be good to plan and implement all these 4 together, so that the whole system is in Harmony and is fine tuned. Which means I would need to expand my budget...

So what would the gurus recommend for above 4 upgrades, all in a 25k budget, including installation etc. ?

kURETI · 15th July 2006, 17:15

So what would the gurus recommend for above 4 upgrades, all in a 25k budget, including installation etc. ?[/quote]

Parallel connection both front and rear speakers - keep the amplifier on the HP mode and control the frequency to 100hz and the other 2 channels bridge and give to the subwoofer. This is better if you have a lower budget, if u can extend the budget then buy an other 2 channel amp to drive the rear speakers or buy a monoblock amp to drive the subwoofer.

speedzak · 15th July 2006, 23:57

Quote:

Originally Posted by ST7677

Speedzak, thanks for your ICE roadmap.

I would like to go with the first 4 points suggested by you...

How do you power the rear co-axials in above scenario?

I guess it would be good to plan and implement all these 4 together, so that the whole system is in Harmony and is fine tuned. Which means I would need to expand my budget...

So what would the gurus recommend for above 4 upgrades, all in a 25k budget, including installation etc. ?

Front: Hertz DSK 130 5.25" Components (Rs. 5750+/-) or DSK 165 6.5" Components (Around 8000Rs)
Rear: Alpine SPA170 6.5" or JBL GTO 6.5" Co-axials (Rs. 2500+/-)
Amp: Sony 504z (4500+) or JBL CS 60.4 Amp (Around 8000Rs+)
SUB: JBL 12" or Pioneer 12" (Rs. 4000+) or Alpine Type S (Rs. 8000+) You can opt for a Bass Tube if you just want some thump in your setup. It'll be a cheaper option too.
Installation, Box and cables: 4500+/-

You can select from different options here.
A
Buy an expensive amp Rs.12,000
an entry level SUB Rs.3500 (in ported/vented box)
an entry level Component set Rs. 5500
and normal co-axials Rs. 2500 + Install (4500) = 28k +/-
This setup will give you enough thump. And also gives you an option to change the SUB and speakers later (if you wish) without changing the amp.

B
Buy an entry level amp Rs. 4000
an entry level SUB Rs. 3500 (in ported/vented box)
Mid level Components Rs. 8000
normal co-axials Rs.2500 + Install (4500) = 22500 +/-
This setup again will give the same thump with a bit more better music from components. Not much upgrade options. (With the lose change, you can go for a better amp than the above one)

C
Buy a mid level amp Rs.8000
a mid level SUB Rs.6500 (in ported or sealed)
entry level components Rs. 5500
normal co-axials Rs.2500 + install (4500) = 27k +/-
This setup will give you nice musical setup with SUB in a sealed box. Your Thump factor will be decreased though. And if you want the thump, just fit the SUB into a Ported box and bingo! Plenty thump.

As a fact, a ported/Vented/Bandpass SUB box will give you more THUMP, BOOM etc.. and a sealed box will give you better SQ (a.k.a Sound Quality).

Option B will suit you more I think! Am I right??

or wrong???

Sam Kapasi · 16th July 2006, 00:04

Quote:

Originally Posted by speedzak

JBL GTO 75.4 Amp (Around 8000Rs+)

I think you mean CS60.4 amplifier. The GTO75.4 is higher priced.

speedzak · 16th July 2006, 00:06

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sam Kapasi

I think you mean CS60.4 amplifier. The GTO75.4 is higher priced.

Yes, SAM! It was a mistake and I've corrected it now.

Sorry for the error guyz!

Sam Kapasi · 16th July 2006, 00:18

Ummm Speedzak baba, it's still wrong. CS60.4, not GTO60.4

jkdas · 16th July 2006, 00:23

I suggest that you checkout Rudras car.

Other 4 channels you can look at Pio 6000/6100/6150

Wont the Civic take a compo at the back? I mean aint ther a pod for tweeters at the back?

And if you are too afraid of thump by a sub, try a 6x9.

CS60.4 cost 10k ; its 60W RMS X 4
GTO 75.4 cost 13k or so; 75W RMS x 4.

how abt CS60.2 (6k) + a mono amp ?

speedzak · 16th July 2006, 00:24

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sam Kapasi

Ummm Speedzak baba, it's still wrong. CS60.4, not GTO60.4

PLease guyz! Sorry again! This time the change ai'nt possible. Mods can do it maybe???
But it's quiet forgivable right???

Bass&Trouble · 18th July 2006, 19:02

Hi ST,

Sorry I wasn't around when you posted, hence the delay in replying. In any case, others seem to have sorted you out quite well. (And me too actually, the way they tryin to pull me n LBM outta the closet)

I would think Kureti's reccomendation looks good. Future upgradability is well enabled, although you will have to do without a fader for now. Also, if you wire 2 pairs of speakers in parallel, make sure you get the exact same speakers for front and rear, since you will not be able to adjust any levels if the rears are more sensitive than the front.

You don't necessarily need line output converters, it's easier to get amplifiers with high-level (speaker level) inputs. This way you don't have to worry about matching adjustments on the head-unit, the LOC (if it has a level adjustment), and the amplifier.

15th July 2006, 00:38	#16
iraghava Senior - BHPian Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Bhaiyyaland Posts: 8,033 Thanked: 265 Times View My Garage	So Basically to put it in one sentence "ICE your car the Speedzak way"!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :LOL From support team: Please do not use full quote for your reply. Last edited by Rudra Sen : 5th September 2006 at 15:25.
	() Thanks

15th July 2006, 01:36	#20
kb100 Senior - BHPian Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Bangy Boy! Posts: 1,555 Thanked: 21 Times	ICE BLITZ!!... Sak Ishtyle! ....
	() Thanks

15th July 2006, 17:15	#23
kURETI BHPian Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Bangalore Posts: 104 Thanked: 0 Times View My Garage	So what would the gurus recommend for above 4 upgrades, all in a 25k budget, including installation etc. ?[/quote] Parallel connection both front and rear speakers - keep the amplifier on the HP mode and control the frequency to 100hz and the other 2 channels bridge and give to the subwoofer. This is better if you have a lower budget, if u can extend the budget then buy an other 2 channel amp to drive the rear speakers or buy a monoblock amp to drive the subwoofer.
	() Thanks

16th July 2006, 00:18	#27
Sam Kapasi Distinguished - BHPian Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Mumbai (but wat Posts: 6,997 Thanked: 2,378 Times View My Garage	Ummm Speedzak baba, it's still wrong. CS60.4, not GTO60.4
	() Thanks

16th July 2006, 00:23	#28
jkdas Senior - BHPian Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Thiruvananthapu Posts: 9,687 Thanked: 1,492 Times View My Garage	I suggest that you checkout Rudras car. Other 4 channels you can look at Pio 6000/6100/6150 Wont the Civic take a compo at the back? I mean aint ther a pod for tweeters at the back? And if you are too afraid of thump by a sub, try a 6x9. CS60.4 cost 10k ; its 60W RMS X 4 GTO 75.4 cost 13k or so; 75W RMS x 4. how abt CS60.2 (6k) + a mono amp ? Last edited by jkdas : 16th July 2006 at 00:26.
	() Thanks

18th July 2006, 19:02	#30
Bass&Trouble Senior - BHPian Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Bombay Posts: 2,754 Thanked: 124 Times	Hi ST, Sorry I wasn't around when you posted, hence the delay in replying. In any case, others seem to have sorted you out quite well. (And me too actually, the way they tryin to pull me n LBM outta the closet) I would think Kureti's reccomendation looks good. Future upgradability is well enabled, although you will have to do without a fader for now. Also, if you wire 2 pairs of speakers in parallel, make sure you get the exact same speakers for front and rear, since you will not be able to adjust any levels if the rears are more sensitive than the front. You don't necessarily need line output converters, it's easier to get amplifiers with high-level (speaker level) inputs. This way you don't have to worry about matching adjustments on the head-unit, the LOC (if it has a level adjustment), and the amplifier.
	() Thanks