[DerAlte]

Originally Posted by anurag.khosla

Hi, I am utterly confused because there are so many iterations possible with the settings and no setting is seeming to be great for all types of music. I have the following configuration to make it simpler (image attached), how may I best configure it now?

You have made the perfect illustration!

"no setting is seeming to be great for all types of music": there never is! Please don't confuse yourself. Keep things simple.

1. Fader: *please* keep it at 0. Set at R5, you are sacrificing front image. At 0, the rear Pio 6x9s will get enough power, and they are more sensitive than the other speakers. Also, you will be setting the volume of the ovals first - so no worries

2. Disconnect the parallel connection between front and rear - this would be killing the front image

3. Shift the Pio 6x9 speakers to the HU Rear Speaker Out. They will still sound good (bass)

4. Keep the Pio components on amp A (front) channels. Adjust the gain of the front channel first. Set volume control to a point that the Pio 6x9s are heard comfortably without cracking, then adjust front channel gain. You will need to be in the front seat, so ask someone to help adjust gain

5. If you want the Focals to sound louder, keep them on the rear channels of the amp. Adjust gain such that you can hear them decently BUT don't hear them in the front seats. From the front seat, you should have to bend into the rear seat area to hear them

[anurag.khosla]

Originally Posted by DerAlte

You have made the perfect illustration!

Thanks

"no setting is seeming to be great for all types of music": there never is! Please don't confuse yourself. Keep things simple.

ok point taken

1. Fader: *please* keep it at 0. Set at R5, you are sacrificing front image. At 0, the rear Pio 6x9s will get enough power, and they are more sensitive than the other speakers. Also, you will be setting the volume of the ovals first - so no worries

I've done this and have reduced the amplification factor

2. Disconnect the parallel connection between front and rear - this would be killing the front image

the issue is my amp has all 4 outputs from the HU and focals cant be powered from HU

3. Shift the Pio 6x9 speakers to the HU Rear Speaker Out. They will still sound good (bass)

4. Keep the Pio components on amp A (front) channels. Adjust the gain of the front channel first. Set volume control to a point that the Pio 6x9s are heard comfortably without cracking, then adjust front channel gain. You will need to be in the front seat, so ask someone to help adjust gain

I have adjusted the gain such the front pioneer components are giving a great sound image and rear 6*9 is juicing up the surround

5. If you want the Focals to sound louder, keep them on the rear channels of the amp. Adjust gain such that you can hear them decently BUT don't hear them in the front seats. From the front seat, you should have to bend into the rear seat area to hear them

Yes they are not leaking sound to front seat Just that i dont know now what to do with these in the absence of an additional 2-channel.

[DerAlte]

Originally Posted by anurag.khosla

... i dont know now what to do with these in the absence of an additional 2-channel.

I thought I had given details of what you should do, in my previous post.

To put it in short: extend the old rear channel speaker wires from HU (right now terminated in the door) to the Pio 6x9, and shift the new wires (from amp) currently connected to Pio 6x9 speaker, to the Focal speakers in rear doors.

You really don't need to buy a 2-channel amp. HU internal amp is good enough to drive the ovals.

[anurag.khosla]

Originally Posted by DerAlte

I thought I had given details of what you should do, in my previous post.

To put it in short: extend the old rear channel speaker wires from HU (right now terminated in the door) to the Pio 6x9, and shift the new wires (from amp) currently connected to Pio 6x9 speaker, to the Focal speakers in rear doors.

You really don't need to buy a 2-channel amp. HU internal amp is good enough to drive the ovals.

-Yes you did; however, all outputs from the HU have gone into the high vol line in of the amp.

- I was fiddling with the other settings you recommended and the left component woofer /speaker isn't working now; only the tweeter is. What could tis be due to? other opposite speaker of the component set is working fine. And yes, all 4 channels from the amp are ok(tested from the right speaker)

[S2!!!]

The timing of this thread couldn't have been better for me. In a couple of weeks from now, I am planning to improve the audio in my Grand i10. Here is the plan:

Retain the OE headunit.
Get a Scosche line converter.
Add an Auditor 4-channel Amp.
Add an MTX 12" bass tube (both these are lying unused at home).
Power the front speakers and bass tube with the external amp while the rear speakers can be powered by the HU. I'm not sure if this will have any impact on the SQ from the OE speakers though.

Will use this setup for a few days and conclude whether I want to upgrade the speakers too or let the stock ones be. Will re-post on this thread once I am done with the installation.

[anurag.khosla]

Originally Posted by S2!!!

The timing of this thread couldn't have been better for me. In a couple of weeks from now, I am planning to improve the audio in my Grand i10. Here is the plan:

Retain the OE headunit.
Get a Scosche line converter.
Add an Auditor 4-channel Amp.
Add an MTX 12" bass tube (both these are lying unused at home).
Power the front speakers and bass tube with the external amp while the rear speakers can be powered by the HU. I'm not sure if this will have any impact on the SQ from the OE speakers though.

Will use this setup for a few days and conclude whether I want to upgrade the speakers too or let the stock ones be. Will re-post on this thread once I am done with the installation.

-In my opinion, retaining the HU is a wise choice
-If the amp supports high input line, you may not need a line converter because it'd be built in
-4 channel amp and bass tube will add the desired bass
-The HML stock speakers are only 15W and cones are paper made (they don't even need an amp), i'd suggest you go for any decent components in front instead and power them with the amp; you'd never regret

[DerAlte]

Originally Posted by anurag.khosla

... however, all outputs from the HU have gone into the high vol line in of the amp. ...

Even if there is a connection to amp high level inputs. the speaker output can still be extended to speakers from the harness connector in the door. The amp high level input draws very little current from the speaker line - all the power will go to the speaker.

Originally Posted by anurag.khosla

... the left component woofer /speaker isn't working now; only the tweeter is. What could tis be due to? ...

Loose connection at or near XO (cross over box).

Originally Posted by S2!!!

... MTX 12" bass tube ... I'm not sure if this will have any impact on the SQ from the OE speakers though. ...

No issues - will work. Only the bass tube doesn't really match with "SQ" - it is likely to be boomy (please compare with a system that has a sub in a sealed box). Tune it so that it's absence is felt, but the presence is not.

[cooldude1988765]

Originally Posted by S2!!!

Power the front speakers and bass tube with the external amp while the rear speakers can be powered by the HU. I'm not sure if this will have any impact on the SQ from the OE speakers though.

If you are planning to power the stock speakers; please don't.

[S2!!!]

Originally Posted by cooldude1988765

If you are planning to power the stock speakers; please don't.

Any particular reason for avoiding this? I'm a noob when it comes to ICE.

[cooldude1988765]

Originally Posted by S2!!!

Any particular reason for avoiding this? I'm a noob when it comes to ICE.

You would risk overpowering and finally blowing the speakers when you decide to crank up the volume.
Typically most OEM speakers are below 25w rms.
At the very least buy a set of coaxials if you wish to power them with an amp.
I would recommend components if the budget allows.

I would also recommend changing the head unit to gain much more control over the speakers and ultimately better sound quality.

Typically if you are looking to upgrade in stages then step 1 would be to buy the best speakers within your budget and not include other components like amps, HU etc.

You could also consider removing the sub from the tube enclosure and make a custom box. I think ready made ones retail for Rs. 800-1000. 99% of the times the sub would sound better in a box rather than tube. Considering you will be using your existing 4 channel to power the sub i would recommend a ported box as yo would need lesser power to get the sub going; however sub won't go as low as in a sealed enclosure but will still be much better than a tube.

[DerAlte]

Originally Posted by cooldude1988765

If you are planning to power the stock speakers; please don't.

Originally Posted by S2!!!

Any particular reason for avoiding this? ...

Originally Posted by cooldude1988765

You would risk overpowering and finally blowing the speakers when you decide to crank up the volume. ...

The music would have become extremely distorted before that happens, which will force him to reduce volume!

@cooldude, it is terribly uncool to just go by numbers. One shouldn't relate 'capability' with 'actual usage'.Speakers don't burn out just like that, even if you mate a 100W per channel amp to a 25W speaker. In reality, what is pushed through speakers is 1-12W rms depending on music content, with short peaks reaching 20W. A 25W rms speaker can take maybe 50W for those short moments, since extra the heat generated is dissipated during quieter passages. Of course, beyond 25W, a substantial amount of distortion is produced by the speaker.

Otherwise, even lowly-rated OE speakers do benefit with an external amp.

[cooldude1988765]

Originally Posted by DerAlte

@cooldude, it is terribly uncool to just go by numbers. One shouldn't relate 'capability' with 'actual usage'.Speakers don't burn out just like that, even if you mate a 100W per channel amp to a 25W speaker. In reality, what is pushed through speakers is 1-12W rms depending on music content, with short peaks reaching 20W. A 25W rms speaker can take maybe 50W for those short moments, since extra the heat generated is dissipated during quieter passages. Of course, beyond 25W, a substantial amount of distortion is produced by the speaker.

I lost a pair of stock speakers by powering it with a measly silicon 644. Hence the advice.
There was no distortion before they cracked. Was clean and loud till a point after which there we a crackle/pop.

[anurag.khosla]

@DerAlte: Now everything seems to be working fine. my only regret in the whole setup is that i could have gone for a bass tube instead of getting the tray and metal cut for 6*9 installation (since i do not intend to go for CNG in the near future and mostly do not utilize the boot space for anything else) Anyhow, the bass is adequate for most tracks.

[vezj420]

Hi guys...proud to present another upgrade that I got done close to the start of December in my Xcent...the addition of a 12" sub!

Those of you who read my earlier posts would know that I was powering my front comps and rear 6x9s through a 4-channel amp, a Focal Solid 4. As Anurag mentioned in his posts, this provides adequate bass and great sound, but only for most tracks. I don't always listen to the highest quality tracks, and I watch a lot of music and concert videos (ripped from youtube) on my phone with BT audio streaming to the HU. For some reason, the bass output from the stock HU suffers drastically during BT audio streaming. The bass output from my iPod, however, is quite good.

So to pump out a little more bass, I went in for a subwoofer installation. Once again, EVO Bangalore was the choice of venue as I really like those guys' acumen and installation when it comes to non-standard systems. Pics and descriptions below:

Same Focal Solid 4 amp used. This time, the rear channel is bridged to feed the sub (12", in standard enclosure in trunk) and the front channel remaining on the front comps.


A pic of the sub in its enclosure. A Diamond CX 12" was the sub of choice - 200W RMS and 400W peak. Lesser output than what some of you lot are used to, but these Diamonds are really up there when it comes to sound quality, which is what I wanted more of, rather than raw output.


The install was done on a Sunday when only the EVO installer was available. Therefore, I had to tune the system myself. I initially had the amp rear crossover passed on "Full" to the sub as the bass seemed to be heavier that way. However, some balance seemed to be missing in this setup. I went in for a re-tune at the shop some days later wherein I was advised to pass only "Low" to the sub and turn up the gain a bit (to make up for Xcent's stock HU's weak outputs). The gain going to the front comps was also increased a little bit for balancing purposes.

Oh, and the bass controller from the amp was also added and installed near the cup holder area. Very convenient now!


End result - the system sounds (even more) amazing now, with all the low frequencies and bass lines resounding throughout the cabin! My only regret is that the rear 6x9s are not being used to their full potential now, since they are back on the HU. So I'm thinking whether the next upgrade should be a new HU (if possible at all, due to the Xcent's weird front plate) or a monoblock!

[MSC]

Hi all.
This is my first ever post in TBHP. I hope I fare well on expectations of the moderators.
I am planning to go for Hyundai Grand I10 Asta (O). The car seems alright in every aspect expect the music system.I intend to change the entire configuration on day one of the car. I have shortlisted the following configuration. Please have a look and then respond to my queries.
1. Sony H.U. XAV-68BT//C
2. Sony xplod 5 way rear speakers. XS-N69502
3. Sony xlopd XS-GS1720S speakers for front.
4.Sony amplifier XM-N1004
I do not intend to get a sub woofer.
Here are my queries.
1. Can I get monitors fixed on integrated front headrests?
2. The speakers are installed in doors in the original configuration. The buff boards in door panels do get moist owing to water splashing in due course of time. Will such moisture affect the speakers too?.
3. I intended to keep the steering wheel controls. Aftermarket fitments will surely affect these controls. I have heard about something called Steering wheel audio control adapter which helps to retain the steering controls. Is such adapter available for Hyundai Grand I10?
if yes, has anyone in forum used this adapter?Can I have feedback please.

Thanks in advance. .