[hydrashok]

Originally Posted by Autophile

There is no such scenario of current / power difference when using two different amps especially from the same manufacturer and lineup. There is no sychronicity problems, because you have active crossovers to take care of that.

Nothing sounds like properly tuned active system because it is tailored according to the car and listening preference.

Also the Time Alignment / Delay makes more sense in active system than passive system.

You can run an active system with Tube / Solid state Class A amps running the tweeters, Class AB running the midbasses and subwoofers powered by Class D amp. There are no issues anywhere and it will sound outstanding.

Wow! I didn't know this. So we can actually even mix & match different classes of amps when we go active, huh? This is nice to know, as that means going active (costlier option) gives the additional advantage of complete flexibility, and better results while tuning (making going active worth the extra money).

I have always been under the impression that we go active only for better power-handling/feeding, and for better control over what component gets what amount of power (from the same amp/same type of amp).

[navin]

Originally Posted by hydrashok

I have always been under the impression that we go active only for better power-handling/feeding, and for better control over what component gets what amount of power (from the same amp/same type of amp).

Actually since tweeters can sound hard rather easily and need little power (10W is often enough) one can get a 10W Class A amp (tubes might be a bit fragile for Indian roads) for the tweeter, 50W can be enough for most Midbasses so a 50-100W Class AB amp for midbass and rears and a 200-1000W class D amp for the sub.

As a thumb rule the energy spectrum of music is something like this (it does differ from genre to gnere):
5KHz + under 10%
2.5K + under 15%
1.2K + under 25%
300Hz + about 50%

so a 2 way with a crossover at about 4K would send about 85-90% of the energy to the midbass and 10-15% of the energy to the tweeter and a 3 way with crossovers at 300Hz and 5k would send 50% of the energy to the woofer, 40% of the energy to the midrange and 10% to the tweeter.

In Home Audio there are amps that be biased to run 10W Class A or 100W Class AB and I am sure one can do this for car audio as well. so one can theorically have a single 6 ch. amp. (if each channel is discrete) cover front midbass, tweeters and rear fill each channel biased differently for the different applications and a single Class D sub amp.

[Tool]

hello everyone.. im back... !!
umm ok i have 1 small querry based on my 2 configurations earlier.
my components are the Hertz Space K6L 2-way speakers.(250 watt max/ 125 watt cont). so now keeping that in mind..
in config 1 :-
my Hertz Space comps in the rear were getting 70 watts.
my Hertz Space comps in the front were active hence getting 70W+75W.

In config 2:-
my Hertz Space comps in the rear were getting 65 watts.
my Hertz Space comps in the front were active hence getting 65W+200W.

so my question is in config 1 & 2 , will the rears be sufficienty powered? and also in Config 2 will the fronts be over powered ? and umm im just looking for suggestions.. let them flow guruji's !!
thank you in advance again...
Big Boom .

[navin]

The rears are adequatly powered in both situations. In the second situation though I dont think you need 200W for the midbass. there is little difference between 60, 65, 70 or 75W. In fact in db the difference between 60W and 120W is only 3db and Tool few tweeters need 70W much less being able to absorb all that energy.

Lastly you are more liable to damage your speakers by underpowering them than over powering them. It is a long story that involves clipping amps and square waves etc but we dont want to scare of the rest do we? Also given the amps you are using i doubt you will ever encounter this effect.

[Tool]

wow.. thank you sir navinji
that cleared up a lot of things. so now given this situation.. what you you opt for sir navin ? 75 watts to midbass or 200 watt to midbass ?.
Also i wont be giving the tweeters 70 watts at all.. hehehe. The tru-tech active crossover or the alpine PXA 701 should sourt me out on that.please correct me if i am wrong sir's.
Thank you again for all the advice and please do keep it flowing. i learn something killer everyday here.. Love Teamp-bhp precisely for this reason.
So thank you very much again !!
Big boom

[navin]

Originally Posted by Tool

75 watts to midbass or 200 watt to midbass ?.
Also i wont be giving the tweeters 70 watts at all.. hehehe. The tru-tech active crossover or the alpine PXA 701 should sourt me out on that.please correct me if i am wrong sir's.
Big boom

I'd use the setup that needs only 2 amps. The Lrx 6 and the Lrx1. Why complicate things?

The active XO will be before the amps and while you wont be dumping 70W into the tweeters the 70W tweeter amp will only be using a fraction of it's available power.

[Tool]

hello everyone...
its been long long time coming but the time is finally here.
the pajero is already in the super capable hands Sirs JB and Gunbir.
There have been some changes to the original setup which are as follows.
Hu - Apline 9887 - Already bought for B'day.
Components - Image Dynamics CTX 65CS - Front and Back
Amps - Audison LRx 4.5 (for Components) and Audison LRx 2.9 (900Wx 1 for Sub)
Sub - Image Dynamics 12" IDMAX v3.
And of course all Connection Audison Wiring.
Might just add another Audison Lrx 2.9 and another 12" IDMAX v3 finances permitting .
I think work starts on the car tomorrow. I cant wait sirs Jb and gunbir. I cant wait.

[ScarySkulls]

Congrats Tool.

I hear the car is about to undergo the operation today :-)
You in Delhi right now?

[hydrashok]

Ahhhhhh!

Really nice list of equipment. Congrats Tool!

Waiting for pics now.

[low_bass_makker]

Sub going in a seal box ?

[Tool]

Yes scaryskulls bro , i think it is being cut open as we speak hehehehe.

Hello bro hydrashok.. its been a long time. hope everything is killer bro
Am dying to see the install myself hehehehe.

Dunno as yet LBM bro
but i think it will be in a sealed box bro. Have left that upto Sir's Gunbir and Jb.
Also i might just get the hertz hi energy components. It all depends on what fits
in the car.


P.S.- Also on another note. Just got the alpine 9887 put in my esteem today too!!
I think its sounds lovely. Really tight low end. Dont find it bright at all.
Proper SQ Hu this one. Makes my Hertz Hi energy Comps and IDq's sing.Will post pics of that soon.

[low_bass_makker]

Originally Posted by Tool

Dunno as yet LBM bro
but i think it will be in a sealed box bro. Have left that upto Sir's Gunbir and Jb.
Also i might just get the hertz hi energy components. It all depends on what fits
in the car.

Then I think we have to wait for the same.

[Tool]

yep yep bro
hehe im dying here too for the pics.!!
am going to request gunbir and Jb sir's to post them whenever they can

[Bass&Trouble]

Hey Tool, looking good man! Tell those buggas to start posting WIP pics soon atleast. And in my opinion, do get the additional sub - never hurts.

[low_bass_makker]

Originally Posted by Bass&Trouble

Hey Tool, looking good man! Tell those buggas to start posting WIP pics soon atleast. And in my opinion, do get the additional sub - never hurts.

The additional sub + amp will be costing just approx 70k.