[swiftnfurious]

Yet another (beautiful) install from Anwar. Have been to his previous garage and have seen & heard some of his installs. It so bl**dy neat - you can't even see wires anywhere.

Viddy - what was his labor cost alone?? It was some 14K or something for the Swift back in 2008.

Originally Posted by rosh_aveo1.4

.... I'm from Kerala and have a feeling the above brands might be over priced here. Can you give me the contact of the guys who had sent this across to you?

It's usually overpriced in Kerala - have seen other accessories being quoted for as high as 50% of Bangy prices. FYI, Anwar is also a Keralite & has a contact in National market where you can get stuff in grey market (used to be) for much lesser price. Not fakes, and I have had stuffs from there which run beautiful for 5 years at least. If you buy the speakers & other things from Anwar, he quotes really high.

[Vid6639]

Originally Posted by a4anurag

Nice thread with good upgrades for the EcoSport. Didn't know it was difficult to pull wires from cabin to doors. Would like to audition your car if I do get a chance in the near future.

Anytime you are in town next.

So is the 'REM' part on the amplifier empty?

So the amplifier is turning ON automatically when it senses signal on the speaker level input. Correct?

Yup, the REM is empty. If you use speaker level inputs you don't need REM trigger. However with RCA it is needed.

Originally Posted by ranjithrnair

When I tried similar sort of upgrade few years back , it was observed that the moment you unlock car , there is some sort of speaker output from headunit even if it's not turned on and that was triggering the amplifier to switch ON.
This was causing issues with sub and Amp getting powered ON unnecessarily.

Yeah it will get turned on when unlocked is what I thought as well but the amp doesn't draw a lot of current so should be fine for the time I unlock to start the engine.

Originally Posted by swiftnfurious

Yet another (beautiful) install from Anwar. Have been to his previous garage and have seen & heard some of his installs. It so bl**dy neat - you can't even see wires anywhere.

Viddy - what was his labor cost alone?? It was some 14K or something for the Swift back in 2008.

Yes install was very neat. I spent the day there and was seeing his guys are well trained and know what needs to be done.

A few inputs from my side for tweeter position preference, amplifier not to be screwed onto the floor of the car but velcro strapped.

His total labour cost was 18K including sub enclosure, wiring, labour and felt line damping on door pads. On the higher price but not overly so imo.

[a4anurag]

Originally Posted by Vid6639

Anytime you are in town next.

In a few days mostly. Coming for audio upgrade of my Creta.

Yup, the REM is empty. If you use speaker level inputs you don't need REM trigger. However with RCA it is needed.

So do you find any delay in output after the HU switches ON?

[Doge]

Appreciate your contributions to the Ecosport community here.
I want to get my Eco insulated, purely for reducing road noise. How much of a difference did damping the doors made in NVH? Also how much did the damping cost you?

[suku_patel_22]

If i want to add some bass to my facelifted Ecosport, will a single channel amp and bass tube suffice? Would it need cutting of wires?

[Vid6639]

Originally Posted by Doge

Appreciate your contributions to the Ecosport community here.
I want to get my Eco insulated, purely for reducing road noise. How much of a difference did damping the doors made in NVH? Also how much did the damping cost you?

7K for damping of all 4 doors and boot. I got the sheets myself from Dampmat (fellow member Montysingh manufactures them in NCR I believe).

Other than that I will do 3M underbody coating next month. This should reduce road noise further around 5K i guess.

Originally Posted by suku_patel_22

If i want to add some bass to my facelifted Ecosport, will a single channel amp and bass tube suffice? Would it need cutting of wires?

Yes wires will need to be cut and added.

1. For the amp you need a power wire straight from battery. This is not straightforward as the ECU sits on top of battery and to route the power cable isnt that easy.

2. Speaker wires front or rear need to be tapped behind the head unit for subwoofer.

Which is why I didn't just add a sub for bass. If anyways I was going to wire it for amp and sub, might as well get a 4 channel amp and front speakers.

[_nitink_]

Originally Posted by Vid6639

7K for damping of all 4 doors and boot. I got the sheets myself from Dampmat (fellow member Montysingh manufactures them in NCR I believe).

Can you share his contact details please? I am not able to find him.

[Bass&Trouble]

Looking good viddy! Glad you're enjoying the music.

[CrAzY dRiVeR]

Originally Posted by a4anurag

In a few days mostly. Coming for audio upgrade of my Creta.

I'd like to catch up as well - if you both can keep me in the loop. It's been a long time since I spent time checking out ICE setups.

[mashmash]

Wow thats is a great set of components and a very neat install.

Any Meets being planned? Would love to listen to the setup once its settled and tuned.

MaSh

[akbaree]

Originally Posted by Vid6639

I was expecting the biggest challenge would be the wiring and I was right. Ford has connectors in the doors that connect to the body, so the wire doesn't go from the door speaker to the head unit, it goes to the door connector that plugs into the body. This basically means, you can't route a new wire from the amp to door. The only way was to tap the wire behind the head unit, send it to the amp and then from the amp have it come back to the head unit and connect to the OE Ford speaker wires. This meant the connecter had to be cut and there was no other choice:

Does this affect the warranty?

[Vid6639]

Originally Posted by akbaree

Does this affect the warranty?

Pretty sure it affects the electrical warranty as OE wiring had to be snipped behind the head unit. But this is really low risk and minimal.

My car is closing in on 5 years and remapped so warranty wasn't the issue.

Originally Posted by CrAzY dRiVeR

I'd like to catch up as well - if you both can keep me in the loop. It's been a long time since I spent time checking out ICE setups.

Originally Posted by mashmash

Wow thats is a great set of components and a very neat install.

Any Meets being planned? Would love to listen to the setup once its settled and tuned.

MaSh

Will do once the system is settled in.

[aquarian1502]

Originally Posted by Vid6639

Last couple of months, post the Code6 remap, the itch to update the ICE was getting bigger. The car was enjoyable to drive but I was sorely unhappy with the ICE.

Hello Vid,

You have spoilt me !

Mine is also a 2013 TDCi Titanium Seagray (bought after reading your review) and have developed an itch for the Code6 remap. Can you please share more details on the cost, time taken to install (need to plan as I have to drive from JP Nagar 7th ph) and feedback if any post remap ?

Secondly, any suggestions for ICE upgrade without Sub (being a family man, I hardly find any space left in boot).

Thank You.

[Prodigy07]

Nice Build there Vid

I had Morel Tempo 6 as Front components and Rear 6x9s in my previous car (Fiesta 1.6). They are so so neutral and balanced.

Small suggestion - Please add Waterguard spacers to your Front Components in case you haven't fixed.

[McLaren Roxx]

Originally Posted by Vid6639

The amp is where I knew would have a lot of challenges. First hurdle was space below the seat and luckily there was just enough for it to fit without even coming close to the passengers touching it with their feet:

I also didn't want the amp to be screwed to the floor of the car. The thought of a screw going through the body was too scary. Hence, the amp was screwed to a felt-lined MDF plate and was Velcroed to the carpet floor, so it doesn't move around:

Neat install. Congratulations.

Regarding amp placement, over the years I have come to the conclusion that the best place to house an amplifier is in the boot or screwed onto the 2nd row seat back. You can even velcro it using some heavy duty material.
I find it has several advantages:
1. Remains in an airy area - hence runs cooler
2. Stays away from dirt, dust and grime that eventually collect around it over time
3. Is protected from the accidental splash from a leaky bottle, umbrella or shoe. Especially from the hose of an over-enthusiastic car wash fellow (the way they maneuver their pressure washer gun around the door sil makes my heart skip a beat every time)
4. An unintentional mis-step by the rear seat passenger
5. Easy to operate in case any tweak is needed
6. If the amp has an LED, looks cool when on