[low_bass_makker]

I think we must wait for Vijay for what he has decided. has he bought the subs or he is going to buy them.

[Sam Kapasi]

Oh dear. Fully misunderstood by me. I thought that by some freak accident, vijay has bought one 1202 and another 1204!! And he was wondering how to connect the two lol.

LBM is correct. If you want to connect two woofers in bridged mode, the best thing to do is to buy the 1202D and wire it in series to make 4 ohms. Then connect each woofer in bridged mode to the amplifier.

To Bolo Tara rara, or not to Bolo Tara rara. That, is the question.

Each 1202D costs 5990/-

Aaenjoy!

[vijay_k]

Originally Posted by Sam Kapasi

Oh dear. Fully misunderstood by me. I thought that by some freak accident, vijay has bought one 1202 and another 1204!! And he was wondering how to connect the two lol.

LBM is correct. If you want to connect two woofers in bridged mode, the best thing to do is to buy the 1202D and wire it in series to make 4 ohms. Then connect each woofer in bridged mode to the amplifier.

To Bolo Tara rara, or not to Bolo Tara rara. That, is the question.

Each 1202D costs 5990/-

Aaenjoy!

Thanks you Sam sir i was actually confused reading your earlier post. LBM sir saved me i guess, thank you sir.
Anyhow what is the output of GTO75.4 in bridged mode?

By the way can i get GTO1202D through Sound Factor, Bangalore?


Thanks in advance,
Vijay

[low_bass_makker]

Originally Posted by DerAlte

the JBL GTO75.4 II manual does not say "bridged mode" explicitly, "284 watts RMS x 2 channel at 4 ohms, 14.4V supply and ≤1% THD + N" as mentioned will mean 284W RMS in the bridged mode.

http://manuals.harman.com/JBL/CAR/Ow...v_12_14_04.pdf

Originally Posted by vijay_k

Thanks you Sam sir i was actually confused reading your earlier post. LBM sir saved me i guess, thank you sir.
Anyhow what is the output of GTO75.4 in bridged mode?

By the way can i get GTO1202D through Sound Factor, Bangalore?


Thanks in advance,
Vijay

Vijay it is post before by our new ICE expert DerAlte..and thanks If I saved some one.

[Sam Kapasi]

Originally Posted by vijay_k

By the way can i get GTO1202D through Sound Factor, Bangalore?

Yes Vijay, you can. I would also advise you to look at the GT4-12, a single voice coil 4 ohm woofer, my personal favourite and 1000 rupees cheaper.

[vijay_k]

Thanks a lot guys especially LBM, DerAlte and Sam for clearing my doubts.

@Sam: I have seen GT4-12 sub installed in many cars, even i liked it but the reason why i am planning for a GTO1202D is because it has a bit more output than that of GT4-12 i.e, GTO1202D has 300W rms and GT4-12 has 250W rms, so more the output better the bass. Right??
This is what i felt correct me if i am wrong i am new to all these things

Waiting for your suggestions...


Thanks in advance,
Vijay

[Sam Kapasi]

Yes, I know the GTO1202D can handle a little more power than the GT4-12.
How much power do yo9u need and what amplifier are you planning to use? If it's a 75.4 then the 2 woofer will still get the same power and run well with it.

I know the 1202D is a more expensive woofer and the GT4-12 is cheaper. But there's something about the sound of that GT4-12 that I love. That's why i'm advising you to go for it.
I think it sounds better.

Use the extra Rs.1000 per woofer to take your special lady out instead.

[low_bass_makker]

Originally Posted by vijay_k

Thanks a lot guys especially LBM, DerAlte and Sam for clearing my doubts.

@Sam: I have seen GT4-12 sub installed in many cars, even i liked it but the reason why i am planning for a GTO1202D is because it has a bit more output than that of GT4-12 i.e, GTO1202D has 300W rms and GT4-12 has 250W rms, so more the output better the bass. Right??
This is what i felt correct me if i am wrong i am new to all these things

one more thing is that the RMS rating is the power handling of a speaker not the rating that it can play loud. It is ok that if one speaker is having good power handling it can take good power and will play loud also.

So the loudness factor is considered by the sensitivity rating of the speaker.

[vijay_k]

First of thanks for the interest and patience in replying my queries guys...

I think i will be buying only one sub as of now due budget constrains and that sub would be either GT4-12 or GTO1202D or GTO1204D, i am confused between these subs..

This is the setup i have now in my Swift(should have told you guys about this earlier, i think it would have helped you guys in clearing my doubts)
Pioneer 6950 HU
JBL GTO 75.4 Amp
Infinity 6010cs 6.5" Component in the front
Infinity 9613i 6x9 Ovals in the rear on a MDF plank.
EFX wiring kit
Installation done at Auto Fusion(Anwar), Bangalore.

Both the components and the rear ovals are powered by GTO75.4 amp, thought of buying one more 75.4 amp and 2 subs and run the subs through this amp but cant afford it right now.
So what i am planning for now is i will buy one sub and bridge the rear set of outputs of the existing 75.4 amp to power the sub and the front set of outputs of the amp will be used to power the components and connect the ovals directly through the HU. Is this ok?

In another few months will upgrade to a GTO301.1 amp.
If i am not satisfied with the bass from one sub will upgrade to GTO601.1 and add one more sub instead of 301.1. Is this ok?

@LBM:All the subs have the same sensitivity rating of 93db the only difference what i found is that GT4-12 is rated at 250W rms, 1000W peak and the remaining 2 subs(GTO1202D & GTO1204D) are rated at 300W rms, 1200W peak. So which sub is better?

Please help me in selecting one sub guys getting confused a lot.

Thanks in advance,
Vijay

[tsk1979]

Umm, if you power Coax directly through the HU the sound will be very less in the coax(rear speakers).
My advice, but a cheap sony 2 ch amp for 2-3K and use that to power the rear coax
So
75.4 -> Sub + Front Compo
Cheapo sony amp -> Rear Coax

[DerAlte]

Originally Posted by tsk1979

My advice, but a cheap sony 2 ch amp for 2-3K and use that to power the rear coax
So
75.4 -> Sub + Front Compo
Cheapo sony amp -> Rear Coax

Not a bad idea at all - have your cake and eat it too!

But, if a Blau, Pio or Alpine amp of suitable rating is better and economical, perhaps @vijay_k doesn't have to compromise his standards.

'Cos his current setup + his idea of putting in a GTO301.1 or GTO601.1 with 1 (or even 2 subs) is an indication of discerning SQ+SPL demands (a la @LBM).

[Sam Kapasi]

Originally Posted by vijay_k

This is the setup i have now in my Swift(should have told you guys about this earlier, i think it would have helped you guys in clearing my doubts)
Pioneer 6950 HU
JBL GTO 75.4 Amp
Infinity 6010cs 6.5" Component in the front
Infinity 9613i 6x9 Ovals in the rear on a MDF plank.
EFX wiring kit
Installation done at Auto Fusion(Anwar), Bangalore.

Yes, you are right, you should have told us earlier. From your choice of equipment, you seem to be wanting quality right from the start. A fairly good combination of loud but quality ICE, I would never ask you to buy a cheapo ICE item and add it to this choice of equipment.

Originally Posted by vijay_k

So what i am planning for now is i will buy one sub and bridge the rear set of outputs of the existing 75.4 amp to power the sub and the front set of outputs of the amp will be used to power the components and connect the ovals directly through the HU. Is this ok?

Yes, absolutely fine.

Originally Posted by vijay_k

In another few months will upgrade to a GTO301.1 amp.
If i am not satisfied with the bass from one sub will upgrade to GTO601.1 and add one more sub instead of 301.1. Is this ok?

Yes it is.

Originally Posted by vijay_k

@LBM:All the subs have the same sensitivity rating of 93db the only difference what i found is that GT4-12 is rated at 250W rms, 1000W peak and the remaining 2 subs(GTO1202D & GTO1204D) are rated at 300W rms, 1200W peak. So which sub is better?

Vijay, I do not know why it never struck me until now. Instead of the GTO1202D, ask for the limited edition GTO1264 (4 ohms SVC). If they don't have it in stock, they will have either kept it aside (60th anniversary product) or may have to call the local distributor for it. It is the same price (Don't pay extra). And 1200W and a great sounding woofer. Go for it.

My clear advice to you is to either go for the GT4-12 or the GTO1264. Don't be confused.

Cheers.

[vijay_k]

Ok guys finally decided i will be going for GT4-12 or GTO1264, thank you guys in helping me choose one.

I don't think i will buy any 2 channel amp as of now instead i think it would be better if i wait a bit and buy a mono amp latter because i don't want to compromise on quality...

After installing the mono block in future should i also install a capacitor? If yes, what should be the specifications and make?

Now that i have decided about the sub, what type of sub enclosure shall i go for??
I have heard a lot of sub's installed in sealed boxes and the boxes were deigned as per specification but i felt the bass was a bit low and tight.
So i am planning for a vented type or a Band pass type of enclosure.
Which of the two would sound better??

Can some body help me out with actual specification or measurement of vented and band pass type of enclosures (i.e, length, width, height, depth, length of the port, etc...) because i don't know how to calculate it and i don't want to rely on my installer completely for the design of the enclosure.

@Sam: What is the difference between CS300.1 and GTO301.1 amp??
I think CS300.1 supports impedance of only 2 ohms but GTO301.1 supports both 2 & 4 ohms, is this the only difference (don't know might be a dumb question)?? I could not find any other difference so please help me with this...

Thanks in advance,
Vijay

[low_bass_makker]

Originally Posted by vijay_k

Ok guys finally decided i will be going for GT4-12 or GTO1264, thank you guys in helping me choose one.

that is a fine choice

Originally Posted by vijay_k

I don't think i will buy any 2 channel amp as of now instead i think it would be better if i wait a bit and buy a mono amp latter because i don't want to compromise on quality...

totally agree

Originally Posted by vijay_k

After installing the mono block in future should i also install a capacitor? If yes, what should be the specifications and make?

no need for cap it is just time pass stuff..

Originally Posted by vijay_k

Now that i have decided about the sub, what type of sub enclosure shall i go for??
I have heard a lot of sub's installed in sealed boxes and the boxes were deigned as per specification but i felt the bass was a bit low and tight.
So i am planning for a vented type or a Band pass type of enclosure.
Which of the two would sound better??

I would recommend the ported aka the bass relfex one

Originally Posted by vijay_k

Can some body help me out with actual specification or measurement of vented and band pass type of enclosures (i.e, length, width, height, depth, length of the port, etc...) because i don't know how to calculate it and i don't want to rely on my installer completely for the design of the enclosure.

we are here to help sir.

Originally Posted by vijay_k

@Sam: What is the difference between CS300.1 and GTO301.1 amp??
I think CS300.1 supports impedance of only 2 ohms but GTO301.1 supports both 2 & 4 ohms, is this the only difference (don't know might be a dumb question)?? I could not find any other difference so please help me with this...

that is if a amp is 2 ohms stable then it will be stable in 4 ohms mode also...as the 2 ohms will put more load on the amp when compared to the 4 ohms mode. but the output will reduce when the sub is connected in a 4 ohms when compared to 2 ohms.

[Sam Kapasi]

The CS300.1 is a fine amplifier, fit enough to drive either of the 2 subwoofers, but the GTO is a superior product, both in sound and in quality.

With each woofer you will buy, you will get a sheet inside that looks like this.




That is all you need. AAANJOY!!